ok if my tefen heads have the check valve i dont need the solenoids right? i dont want to deal with the battery id rather just be able to plug it in? id want the ac 100-240v right? what timer do you use now? send me a link if u wouldnt mind thanks AJ
True HP Aero For 2011
- Thread starter Trichy Bastard
- Start date
ok if my tefen heads have the check valve i dont need the solenoids right? i dont want to deal with the battery id rather just be able to plug it in? id want the ac 100-240v right? what timer do you use now? send me a link if u wouldnt mind thanks AJ
foresakenlion
Active Member
I was under the impression Biocontrols was owned by Agrihouse, I could of course be wrong, but since the core of Agrihouse is terraforming the deserts in places like Dubai and Israel, I highly doubt they care about whatever public retail they do. There is a reason NASA contracted them into creating technologies as well as licensed their technology for future use. The plant sensor and the aeroponic systems are intended for long term deep space missions, think Mars.
As for the fitting, yours is certainly a lot less expensive than mine, but what is your pressure rating on it? From what i was reading PVC for every ten degrees in temperature increase it was losing vast amounts of pressure holding capacity, I would hate for your AC to go out one day, the room get hot in summer, and have the thing explode because of high ambient temps.
As a cheap workaround since you're around in a pickle if it doesn't meet the psi rating, you could simply jacket the connection with a far stronger pipe.
Oh btw TB your system is doing quite nice, I love that hinged joint on the control panel, going to make maintenance a snap.
Great job finding that Sestos timer Aero... that should be a solid alternative, they make precision instruments for industrial industry. They had a solid state timer on one of these sites, for around 600
As for the fitting, yours is certainly a lot less expensive than mine, but what is your pressure rating on it? From what i was reading PVC for every ten degrees in temperature increase it was losing vast amounts of pressure holding capacity, I would hate for your AC to go out one day, the room get hot in summer, and have the thing explode because of high ambient temps.
As a cheap workaround since you're around in a pickle if it doesn't meet the psi rating, you could simply jacket the connection with a far stronger pipe.
Oh btw TB your system is doing quite nice, I love that hinged joint on the control panel, going to make maintenance a snap.
Great job finding that Sestos timer Aero... that should be a solid alternative, they make precision instruments for industrial industry. They had a solid state timer on one of these sites, for around 600
aerojunkie
Well-Known Member
You will need a solenoid to turn the nozzles on and off. When you buy your solenoid you can buy it in 110v (and plug it into a 100-240 timer) or 12-24v (and plug it into a 12-24v timer) Your power source to feed the timer will come from a battery or a wall receptacal. If you want to plug into a wall socket, order the 100-240v timer but make sure to also order a solenoid in the same voltage. After you purchase the timer you can simply send a message to the seller through ebay to specify the voltage or put it in the notes when you make payment.
The check valve in your nozzles will allow for a constant 20 psi in your system at all times allowing instantaneous flow when your solenoid is activated. It will also prevent any sort of air back-flow (which really isn't common). The timer I use is a simple sentinel DRT timer. I will probably switch to these new timers but my system is different than yours will be. I recommend a .01 sec cycle timer for your system. I run air atomized nozzles and I can adjust my droplet size and L/sec flow rates by adjusting my air and fluid pressure regulators along with the air and fluid caps. In essence I can put my timer on 1, 2, or even 3 sec. and still adjust the flow rates to achieve 1ml/100L total saturation.
This is perhaps the cheapest .01 sec digital timer you will find, your just going to need to wait for it to come from Hong Kong.
I do need to ask, have you read through this thread completely? TB has done a fine job garnering all the most valuable info and basics required to assemble this type of system. I would recommend at the very least to go through this thread with a clear head and a notepad to gather as much info as possible.
If you need a pump and accumulator I would recommend this McCann's water booster pump, I have a few of them along with some shurflo booster pumps and I like their performance. basically your getting an accumulator, a check valve, a pressure relief valve and a pump, for the same price as the pump itself. 75.00 including shipping. If you want fewer cycle times with longer intervals you can always piggy back another accumulator.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/McCanns-Stainless-Steel-Water-Booster-/120797460444?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c2016f7dc#ht_500wt_1202
All you will really be needing after these items will be your pressure gauge, solenoids, filter, JG or Sea Tech fittings with tubing, and a chamber. This is a cheap bitchin system for under 500.00
I don't think anyone on this thread right now has spent less than 100.00 for an accumulator, pump, timer, and pressure relief valve. Oh, except me hehe.
Mike Young
Well-Known Member
TB, are you using the .8 gph nozzles with the purple tips? My experience was quite different. They produced a mist so fine, it floats around in my chambers for almost a minute, and certainly didn't soak my hand immediately. Hmm. I've been on vacation, and haven't had a lot of time to check out your progress, but sounds like you're well on your way. Keep up the good work.
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
Wow, I searched high n low for timer options, and never saw this- I'm thinking it's a new listing. It looks good, especially with the Omron relay. Only weird thing is the size- 49x49mm- that's less than 5cm2. So perhaps 1 1/4" x 1 1/4 if I understand correctly?- Get out your glasses- lol.... It's not too late- I can always use this timer as my "night-time cycle"- which would be a better option than just putting my timer on a timer which turns it off for an hour or so a few times a night to make up for the lower temps and plant's less water needs. Also have that ebay timer on the way- so you test this one, and I'll test the ebay one Hammer listed.
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
The PVC is rated for over 3x my working pressure, and logic tells me the fitting, being thicker than the regular pipe and also being sandwiched in the metal threads of the accumulator will likely be alot stronger than what the rating is. I believe threads decrease pressure holding capacity by 1/2- but even so- I'm still good, and also the reason's I just listed have me not worried whatsoever. Yeah, I like the hinge idea as well, it does keep everything accessible, while looking decent.
Our nearsighted country has cut the Space shuttle program, budget cuts you know. So why look at Mars when we can't even get to the moon any more...
idiots... I believe science and education are the things that should never be cut, because they hold all the answers for our problems. Sorry, it's really something that gets me upset to think about.
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
Again- nice find AJ. The smaller capacity of the tank would mean it comes on more often, but for the price, you can't beat the simplicity of it. As you mention, an extra tank can be put online. This would be perfect for me as a seperate HPA-Cloner. Coupled with the timer you listed and a Rubbermaid bin- the whole thing could me made for around 150 bucks!
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
Ahh- I was using the grey tipped ones, yours are probably better, I'll grab those next trip though. Yes, almost there, hope to be up and running this weekend, Hope your having/had a good trip bro.
aerojunkie
Well-Known Member
Well someone snatched it up! They make great cloners. I have one on every system including my RO. I dont really mind the amount of cycles they go through either. As long as they work I dont think twice about them. I have considered adding a well tank to the system rather than a standard accumulator because they look sweet and my pressures never exceed 60psi.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WELLMATE-WM6-20-GALLON-PRESSURE-WATER-WELL-TANK-NEW-/130517735829?pt=BI_Pumps&hash=item1e63769995#ht_899wt_952
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WAYNE-12-Gallon-Conventional-Horizontal-Well-Pump-Water-System-Tank-3012-/360400350926?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e988eece#ht_2389wt_1185
Mike, what pressure are you running your DIGs at? Looking at the DIG site they flow .76GPH @35PSI and up to .91GPH @ 65PSI. That's pretty close to the Tefen red CV @ .63GPH @ 43PSI up to .98 @ 87 PSI.
They also look real easy to clean, I'm going to see how they work in my cloner on it's next test.
I have a problem hope you guys can help. I bought the aquatec 8800 from reptile basics. I got it hooked up to my tank, tank is pre charged to 104 psi. I have a external pressure switch hooked up to control the pump pressure. Heres the problem. When the pump starts it goes to about 100 psi and no higher. The pump is still running but just will not go any higher than 100 psi according to the pressure gage I have mounted between the pump and tank. This pump is suppose to go to 160 psi according to the manufacturer, more than enough for what I need. It will not get there. Any ideas before I buy a different manufacturer pump? I think this model pump has an internal pressure switch, but I don't know how it works. I am assuming that it would shut the pump off if it were reaching that. It wouldn't be still running if it reached the internal pressure switch would it?
If I need a different pump please suggest one to me that will go to at least 150 psi. I was hoping to get this project fired up for it's first run by next week. I was wanting to get everything dialed in this week to be ready.
Please help if you can!
If I need a different pump please suggest one to me that will go to at least 150 psi. I was hoping to get this project fired up for it's first run by next week. I was wanting to get everything dialed in this week to be ready.
Please help if you can!
Mike Young
Well-Known Member
I'm testing at 100, & plan on not going below 80. These nozzles are only rated to 80 psi, but in my 30 years on this planet, I've come to realize that ratings can be kinda silly.the fact that these nozzles have removable tips & that I will have easy access to swap them out, make them a very easy choice for me. Trichy will hopefully grab some of the .8 gpg heads & confirm what I've believed all along. I'm in no way an expert in hpa, but I do know when something feels right.
Back to my vacation, haha!
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
If it has an internal bypass- that's likely the issue. Don't know if bypass settings are adjustable, call reptile basics. (Or PetFlora
)Mechanibus
Member
The 8800 does have an internal bypass, which you can set by turning the hex screw on the front of the pump with a little driver. Don't crank it down really hard or you could damage it, but you can tighten it for higher pressure.
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
So- the 140 tpi rootscreen idea I got from Cav's thread seems to be a bit too dense of thread count. Water pools on top of it a bit too much (surface tension), which sort of defeats the purpose. The holes are finer than my good eyes can see, so I'm sure slightly less dense will allow water through more easily, but still stop the roots from coming through. I told Atomizer, and he said once the material soaks it would work better, so rubbed it under warm running water and left a pool of water on it over the sink and went to the hardware store for 4 hours. When I came home it was just the way I left it -didn't even evaporate either- lol! I think the 120 tpi might do the trick instead- but for the record, it was 140 tpi that was recommended by auto44. Perhaps different brands make a difference?
I played around with a drop of dishsoap on my finger and dipped it into the pool of water and as soon as it touched the water- it drizzled right through due to the surfactant properties of the dishsoap which break up the surface tension. I plan to run some Pro-Tekt (silica) in my res, and the bottle says it has surfactant properties, so perhaps that will make the difference. I'll post on the subject again when I test it.
I played around with a drop of dishsoap on my finger and dipped it into the pool of water and as soon as it touched the water- it drizzled right through due to the surfactant properties of the dishsoap which break up the surface tension. I plan to run some Pro-Tekt (silica) in my res, and the bottle says it has surfactant properties, so perhaps that will make the difference. I'll post on the subject again when I test it.
konagirl420
Well-Known Member
Go TB!!Is it Raining there????