Lighting & Lumens

Status
Not open for further replies.

videoman40

Well-Known Member
HPS puts out less heat per lumen of light than fluorescent/

Based on what has been said here, I will identify a couple of comments that are not entirely false but strike me as misleading. I will also give you some info I have come across about envirolites specifically and compact fluoro's in general. Hopefully this will help you all figure out what you want to pursue for supplemental lighting.

A watt will produce about the same amount of heat whether it’s from an HPS, MH, or Fluorescent. An HPS puts out a lot more light per watt, so you’d need 800 watts of fluorescent light to equal 400 watts of HPS. You’d create more heat with 800 watts of fluorescent than you would with 400 watts of HPS.

The heat is distributed over a much larger surface area decreasing its intensity. 250 watts of cfl or T5 lighting might have 20square inches of surface area(not real figure just for example sake). This whole area is around 100 degrees, the same wattage HPS has about 2 square inches of surface area and this surface is about 700. The intensity of the heat is quite different this is why a plant cannot be within an inch or two of a 250 watt HPS(it doesn't need to be though because light intensity is similar to heat intensity), but watt for watt similar amounts of heat are produced.

First let me say that I am not going to rag on Fluoro's, I like them and think they have a valuable place in the grow room. That said, the three points listed are all problematic.

To say that an HID costs more to operate then a fluoro is just false, 250 watts of fluorescent lighting uses 1kw every four hours just the same as a 250 watt HPS or MH. In fact HID lights use slightly more then the bulb wattage suggests, probably around ten percent more watts per hour, because of inneficiencies at the ballast. Nevertheless flourescent bulbs also suffer these inneficiencies. The effect is that a 250 watt HPS might pull 275 watts from the wall per hour but give 250 watts worth of light. CFL lighting will pull 250 watts per hour but give like 225 watts of light. This means they are actually probably cheaper but not intentionally and the savings come at a cost of light produced.

One final note here, is that I have found several sources that are skeptical about the claimed lumen outputs of envirolite brand lites. Measured with a lux meter they often underperform substantially. Furthermore I have seen manufacturers that will not sell internal ballasted Compact fluorescents larger then 125 watts because ballast inefficiencies increase badly beyond that point. An example is that a 250w lamp only produces the light that a 175 watt external ballasted lamp would produce. [/font]

The heat buildup issue is a hotly debated topic. If you think about it in terms of efficiency though it is more clear. CFL's and T5's output around 90 lumens per watt. Lumens are not the definitive word on light production but they are a good enough measure of bulb efficacy for now. an HPS puts out about 110 lumens per watt and MH are around 80-90 depending on manufacturer. This means that watt for watt all these lights are converting roughly the same amount of energy into light, the rest is dissipated as heat. This would seem to suggest that they all produce roughly the same amount of heat watt for watt, in fact HPS being the most efficient would produce less heat then either MH, CFL's, or T5's. This does not mean their is no difference, Fluoros have a large surface area and a low surface temp(around 100 degrees F) a HID has a very small surface area and a very high surface temp(between 700 and 1300 degrees F depending on type of bulb) The effect is that HID's produce a very intense radiation of heat several inches from the bulb before that heat is dissipated. Fluoro's produce a low intensity heat as it is more easily dissipated from the large surface area. Both will heat a space roughly equally, though it should not be forgotten that the ballast on CFL's produces plenty of heat in itself and cannot be removed from the grow space like an external ballast for HID. Both require ventilation if lots of watts are used, however Fluoros have the distinct advantage of being able to be used in very close proximity to plants.

The third comment on Lumen output is rubbish as well. It is true that lumens decrease exponentially by the square of the distance from the bulb, but this is not an effective argument for Fluoros beating HID. The same issue that applies to heat also applies to light output as well. HID's produce a small point of light that can be controlled in a directional manner very easily. Foot candle penetration far exceeds that from Fluoro's. You might think of it like this, because a fluoro has such a large surface area the total output is actually divided by that area. This means that a square inch say, of light on the bulb actually produces 700 to 1000 lumens, at no single point on the bulb does luminance exceed that 700-1000 lumens. This effectively means that in order for a plant to recieve several thousand lumens it has to be within a couple inches of several square inches of surface area, or very close to the bulb. Thus foot candle measurements one foot from the bulb work off of this 700-1000 rather then the total output of the bulb. An HID in contrast, due to its focal point of light actually produces nearly its entire output in 1 or 2 sqaure inches of surface area. Thus conservatively the foot candle measurement begins with at least half of the bulbs total output. This is why HID's have such superior penetration to fluoros. [/font]

The comments on color spectrum are a little off as well. As I have said it is true that HID lights produce a fair amount of light outside of the photosynthetically active spectrum for plants, however this applies to fluoros as well. Envirolites are advertised as producing 100% par(photosynthetically active radiation). This claim is extremely misleading, what they mean is that the bulbs produce an equal amount of photosynthetically useful energy as the sun does. The math is quite complex but suffice to say that PAR is a measure of photons, not light intensity or even energy really. Light is both a wave and a particle, different wavelengths carry different amounts of energy but all are made up of photons. Par is a measure of photons lumens are a measure of wavelength. One photon excites one electron. PAR for the sun is roughly 2000 umol per square meter per second. The envirolites produce an equivalent amount of energy as this. This claim suffers from the same problems as lumens output however, as distance from the bulb increases this number drops, what it does say is that at some unspecified range the bulb produces the same energy (not wavelengths or spectrum) as the tropical sun at noon. HID's do this just as well and as usual high par numbers penetrate much farther from the bulb because they start at much higher values just like luminous intensity. Plants can only process a certain amount of PAR this is why Co2 can be usefull and why there is no need for a 1kw HPS to be within 5-6 inches of the plant tops. HID's are used because they provide 100% par a foot or more from the bulb, 1kw lights still produce it nearly 2 ft from the bulb.

So what does this mean?

Well as I said They have ther place, the fact is that a plant in veg does not need as much light as a plant in flowering. I like to save some cash and will veg under blue envirolites, then come flower time the hps kicks in. Flouros also make great wall lighting to give some side lighting since the plants can get close. you can even hang them down into the plants if you fashion a plastic tube around the bulb to keep the plants an inch form it.

Well I was gonna put in some pics of spectrum charts but couldn't find any of good quality so sorry about the lack of visual aides. And sorry about the length but hope it helps.
 

babygro

Well-Known Member
To say that an HID costs more to operate then a fluoro is just false, 250 watts of fluorescent lighting uses 1kw every four hours just the same as a 250 watt HPS or MH. In fact HID lights use slightly more then the bulb wattage suggests, probably around ten percent more watts per hour, because of inneficiencies at the ballast. Nevertheless flourescent bulbs also suffer these inneficiencies. The effect is that a 250 watt HPS might pull 275 watts from the wall per hour but give 250 watts worth of light. CFL lighting will pull 250 watts per hour but give like 225 watts of light. This means they are actually probably cheaper but not intentionally and the savings come at a cost of light produced.
I hate to pull bits out of peoples posts and criticise them, but this is just wrong and misguided, mostly because the author doesn't seem capable of understanding the difference between power draws.

1 125w compact fluorescent nlite uses 97 watts of electricity. If you don't beleive me - ring the manufacturer and ask them - nltes UK - Home, they have a US distributor. So 2 x 125w nlites will draw surprise surprise 97w x 2 = 194w.

So, on the one hand the author states confidently "To say that an HID costs more to operate then a fluoro is just false" he then goes on to say "In fact HID lights use slightly more then the bulb wattage suggests, probably around ten percent more watts per hour, because of inneficiencies at the ballast."

Oh, so they do use more electricity than 250w of fluorescents then? And it's 10% is it? Do you not know how to calculate the the wattage use of a HID? Is that why you purposely left all 'wooly' because you dont know how to calculate the 'actual' wattage draw of a HID? And it's not because of inefficiencies' in the ballast its the wattage the ballast ACTUALLY USES!

So, a 250w HPS uses 10% more does it? 25watts? Total 275 watts? WRONG.

An average magnetic coil ballast 250w HPS draws 2.5 amps on a 120v system. Know ohms law? Amps x volts = watts. 2.5x120=300w. So not only are you wrong about your estimate of wattage use of a 250hps, you're wrong that "an HID costs more to operate then a fluoro is just false". Don't beleive me? Ring up a supplier and ask them the amperage draw of an average 250w magnetic coil HPS.

A 250hps uses 300 watts, 2 x 125w nlites use 194w.

I could go through the rest of your post dispelling all these myths you've dredged up, but it would be extremely time consuming and tediuous and I'm simply not that anal and have better things to do with my time.

I do strongly suggest you at least get some of your facts right though, it helps make the rest of it more beleivable.
 

Godkas

Well-Known Member
I hate to be the guy to chime in but I have to agree otherwise HPS would be a more common lighting source for energy efficiency.
 

videoman40

Well-Known Member
While your comparison has some truth to it, it also assumes a magnetic ballast, not the more commonly used electronic ballast, which uses 50% less power during lamp startup, amongst other benefits, point being this comparison would have been fair. You obviously avoided the lighting loss when using flouros. The point you missed was a 250 watt hps is 250 watts, the ballast is on top of that, when using flouros, the ballast is deducted from the rated watts.
Not to mention flouros dont come anywhere near the intensity of a hps light.
BTY, your link clearly states that when using those lights and not using an hps, yeilds will be far less.
 

babygro

Well-Known Member
While your comparison has some truth to it, it also assumes a magnetic ballast, not the more commonly used electronic ballast, which uses 50% less power during lamp startup, amongst other benefits, point being this comparison would have been fair. You obviously avoided the lighting loss when using flouros. The point you missed was a 250 watt hps is 250 watts, the ballast is on top of that, when using flouros, the ballast is deducted from the rated watts.
Not to mention flouros dont come anywhere near the intensity of a hps light.
BTY, your link clearly states that when using those lights and not using an hps, yeilds will be far less.
You know, you're like a snake impaled on a spike, one minute you try and wriggle one way, the next minute you're trying to wriggle the other way. I simply responded to what YOU wrote, which was WRONG.

Some truth in what I'm saying? 100% truth in what I said, no spin, no bull, 100% FACT.

"it also assumes a magnetic ballast, not the more commonly used electronic ballast,"

Firstly I assumed NOTHING. I merely responded to what YOU said, YOU used the figures for a magnetic ballast and not an electronic one, now you say my figures are wrong because I didn't base them on a 'more commonly used' (sic) electonic ballast! My figures were not wrong, they were based on exactly what you based yours on.

Since when have 250w HPS electronic ballasts become 'more commonly used' prey tell? Anyone on here using a 250w HPS electronic ballast? Substantiate that they're 'more commonly used than magnetic ballasts please - more fiction.

Secondly, what has 'start up voltages' got to do with the overall running amperage?

Where I'm happy to concede and agree with you, is that electronic ballasts are FAR MORE energy efficient than the old style magnetic coil ballasts, in three specific areas - 1) soft starting voltages, meaning that the lamp igniter only uses however many volts it needs to ignite the lamp, rather than the fixed voltages magnetic coil ballasts use 2) Constant maintenance and adjustment of the required voltage and amperage to keep the bulb running at it's more effective level, thus prolonging lamp life and lumen efficacy and 3) the solid state circuitry means it draws far less amps than the old style magnetic coil ballast.

This basically means that an electronic ballasted HPS system will use the lamp wattage plus about 10-20 watts that the ballast would use.

However a couple of things mitigate against the point you made. 1) Electronic ballasts are a long way from being 'commonly used'. The vast majority of HPS and MH systems out there are the old style magnetic coil ballast, and a lot of new systems are still the old magnetic coil ballast because people don't want to spend the extra on electronic ballasts. 2) The RF shielding on many electronic ballasts can produce a fair amount static on AM wavelengths and some on FM wavelengths that also interferes with VHF and Satellite television. Until they sort these problems out electronic ballasts will not become the 'norm'.

I didn't avoid the 'lighting loss' using fluoro's at all, because there is NO lighting loss. If you can substantiate that in any way - I'll deal with it. ie come up with something more substantive than your own personal opinion.

The figures I quoted to you for the nlite cfl, INCLUDE the electronic ballast.

"Not to mention flouros dont come anywhere near the intensity of a hps light."

My reply to you was specifically about electrical wattage use, where you claimed wrongly that HID systems do not use more wattage than fluoro's - I made no comment at all about 'light intensity' which is a different topic.

I notice you still haven't conceded that magnetic coil ballasted HPS systems can use up to 1/3 more electricity than the equivalent wattage fluoro's, despite the figures I gave you demonstrating that.
 

videoman40

Well-Known Member
"The figures I quoted to you for the nlite cfl, INCLUDE the electronic ballast."
Exactly, the stated watts include the ballast, while on an hps they do not, hence a portion of the stated watts is not lighting but the ballast, hence a lighting loss.

As far as my statement saying they are more common, maybe I am wrong, I assumed that they were more common, as most people I talk to, always talk about electronic ballasts. Not a big point at all though. Whats a couple of watts amongst friends. lol

Watt for wat, there is no heat difference at all, in fact, HPS puts out less heat per lumen of light than fluorescent.

Also An HPS puts out a lot more light per watt, so you’d need 800 watts of fluorescent light to equal 400 watts of HPS. You’d create more heat with 800 watts of fluorescent than you would with 400 watts of HPS.
 

nongreenthumb

Well-Known Member
Really is there any need for this

Babygro is right on the power consumption costs and envirolites/high power cfls are a valid alternative and you could see out an entire grow with high powered cfls.

Hps gets better results to flower with but to make up for the energy consumption you have to maximise its use, you can flower more plants and the quality/quantity will be better with a hps in comparison to cfls or enviros, what is important though is to find out peoples requirements and help them find a solution that is applicable to them a hps isnt going to be suitable for everyone, especially if they are just doing a personal grow on a budget but my personal opinion is that if you can only buy and run one light because of space make it a hps, if you have a budget and want to do a personal grow but have a veg and a flower area go for the cfls/enviros there are pros and cons to them both and we could all sit round here arguing about which is better for evermore as the hps group think hps rules and the enviro group think there are alternatives to grow for less money the two will never change their mind.
 

babygro

Well-Known Member
Exactly, the stated watts include the ballast, while on an hps they do not, hence a portion of the stated watts is not lighting but the ballast, hence a lighting loss.
What are you talking about? More nonsense. Light output is measured in lumens and PAR watts NOT lamp wattage for christs sake - wake up. Wattage is only a -guide- to the likely light output you'll get, even then it varies in HPS and fluoro systems depending on what kind bulb you get.

Watt for wat, there is no heat difference at all, in fact, HPS puts out less heat per lumen of light than fluorescent.
Watt for watt is quite correct, both wattage systems will dissipate similar amounts of heat per watt. However, HPS systems put out far more heat per lumen than fluorescents will, primarily because so much of the output spectrum from HPS is in the red and far infra-red areas of the light spectrum. If it's outputting a lot more lumens, then a higher percentage of those lumens are going to be in the infra-red range - that's why HPS systems generate so much heat.

Also An HPS puts out a lot more light per watt, so you’d need 800 watts of fluorescent light to equal 400 watts of HPS. You’d create more heat with 800 watts of fluorescent than you would with 400 watts of HPS.
A HPS does output more lumens per watt than fluorescents, but the rest of what you've said is complete and utter bollocks and typical of someone who doesn't have the first clue of what he's talking about.

A typical 4000w HPS system outputs about128w of lumens in the correct PAR spectrum **. The rest of the lumen output is either outside the PAR spectrum (yellow/green) or dissipated as infra-red heat or uva at the other end. That means that only 128w of a 400w HPS bulb is actually being used by the plants. That's only 32% of the 400w being used. About 70-80% of light output from fluorescents is within the PAR spectrum, depending on bulb colour temperature.

So for a 400w HPs outputting 55,000 lumens only 17,600 of those lumens are in the correct PAR spectrum. Three 125w nlites would produce 3 x 8300 (24,900) lumens of which 17,430-19,920 (70-80%) would be in the correct PAR spectrum.

By my math 3 x 125w nlites are 375w, not 800w as you claim.

** Taken from Sunmaster site -
A 400 watt HPS lamps has less PAR, typically 120 to 128 watts, but because the light is yellow it is rated at higher lumens (for the human eye).
Light and Plants
 

ngtybear

Well-Known Member
It is tough education, but what we see does not equal what the plants use. In fact, our plants peak usage are in wave lengths on the edges of what we can not even see. Maybe below is an over simplification, but it helps me to digest things.

For those who do not know, or have not taken the time to look it up, PAR stands for Photo synthetically Active Radiation (PAR). This is the light which the plants use. They use different colors in the PAR to produce different results.

The correlated color temperature (CCT) is measured in kelvin. We usually think of "cool" lights and "warm" lights. What we are discussing is the temperature of the lights or the CCT.

To produce the desired results from your plants you need lights which produce light in the given range for your desired result.

The CCT I use for veg is 6500k which produces light in the blue range. This promotes the plants to produce mass. I use CFLs as I have found they produce the desired temperature range with limited heat for output in that range. I grow in enclosed "chambers," so heat is an issue I watch closely.

For flowering I use a combination of 2100 HPS and 2700 CFLs. I believe the right CCT target for flowering is 2700k.

When I look at output, I look for the amount of light a given source is going to produce is the specific range I desire. Again, this may be an over simplification, but it allows me to grow well with less "light," or visible light and less heat.

For example, I fried a couple of my plants in my flowering chamber (too much nutes) and loss some of the vegetation. I will change out the lights in the canopy to 6500K today to promote vegetative growth where it has been lost. I will keep the HPS on from above to continue to promote flowering.

I know there are complex formulas for determining exactly (yeah right) the amount of light produced in a give range, but to be honest, common sense is enough to figure this out. Like the argument over MH vs HPS vs T5 vs CFL.... Give it up please. Make sure you know the amount light your source produces in the given range for the desired result. Unless you just like having a space heater for your grow room. ;)

HPS produces good flowering results not because they provide better "penetration," but because they produce light in the desired color range (2000k-3000k) for the desired result, flowering.

Now, based on the fire storm this topic creates, I expect to get blasted. Blast away, but google first. If I am wrong, I love to know it. Through the dialog we can all learn. Through attacks we only drive away those we would hope to assist.

-ngtybear
 

leafwrapper

Well-Known Member
"HPS produces good flowering results not because they provide better "penetration," but because they produce light in the desired color range (2000k-3000k) for the desired result, flowering."


Nicely put! :)
 

videoman40

Well-Known Member
I dont know which statement is crazier....

"So for a 400w HPs outputting 55,000 lumens only 17,600 of those lumens are in the correct PAR spectrum. Three 125w nlites would produce 3 x 8300 (24,900) lumens of which 17,430-19,920 (70-80%) would be in the correct PAR spectrum.
or
By my math 3 x 125w nlites are 375w, not 800w as you claim.
"

Again, mixing terms like Lumens and PAR is not really accurate. It is true that a large amount(maybe not quite 50% though) of HPS light is in spectrums not used for photosynthesis. This however does not really mean that one can just simply deduct that percentage of lumens from the total. Lumens are a human measurement of light based on the wavelengths visible to our eye. PAR measures the photosynthetically active spectrum for plants, this means that it measures the light energy available for the plant to photosynthesize. Even if the spectrums of HPS light are not all usable they still provide an amount of light energy for photosynthesis equal to several times the energy available from the sun at plant growing ranges and equal to the sun up to several feet away.

Needless to say you would be hard pressed to sell 3 of those lights to someone as an adequate or as you say, an equal replacement for a 400 watt hps system.
 

Chinga_2_Madre

Well-Known Member
You guys need to keep things simple.

Cardinal Rule: Tell no one about your grows

Rule One: The more watts the better

Rule Two: HID's is superior to CFL's

Rule Three: Soil, water, nute and bug management

Keep things simple.

Par, Par watts, lumens is all mumbo-jumbo. Nobody needs to know what it means.

What people need to know is what bulbs and what systems to get for a given area. The rest is caca. Smoke and mirrors and basically posters talking above their knowledge base or expertise. :blsmoke: :peace:

For HID bulbs it is Hortilux or SunMaster and for CFL's pick one, it really does not matter.
 

babygro

Well-Known Member
Even if the spectrums of HPS light are not all usable they still provide an amount of light energy for photosynthesis equal to several times the energy available from the sun at plant growing ranges and equal to the sun up to several feet away.
So what you're really saying here is this.

Despite the fact the only about 50% (I would argue it's more like 35%) of the light output from an average HPS system is in the correct PAR spectrum that plants actually use, its still produced in suffcient volumes for healthy plant growth to occur.

Firstly, this clearly does not take into consideraton the different sized HPS systems available, or are you suggesting that they ALL produce sufficient volumes of PAR light for healthy plant growth? In which case why is there so much discussion about what size HPS system should I get? Clearly, the different sizes HPS systems will produce different levels of PAR light and therefore your comment that they produce "amount of light energy for photosynthesis equal to several times the energy available from the sun at plant growing ranges and equal to the sun up to several feet away" is a complete load of bollocks.

Secondly, you're completely ignoring the fact the the suns luminous flux is NOT subject to the 'inverse square law' of light intensity, which indoor artificial lights are, so that statement of yours is still a load of bollocks, because the luminous flux of artificial lights diminish rapidly the further they are from the plant.

Thirdly, you appear to be advocating the use of a HPS system, that you only receive about 35-50% of plant useable light from yet pay for 100% of it's electrical operating cost.

Needless to say you would be hard pressed to sell 3 of those lights to someone as an adequate or as you say, an equal replacement for a 400 watt hps system.
Oh really? Well, the fact that 3 x 125w nlites, output almost exactly the same amount of PAR spectrum light as a 400w HPS, and use 291 watts of electricity, and a 400w magnetic coil HPS uses 3.8amps on a 120v system = 456 watts of electricity, rather suggests theres a few smart people out there willing to save 165 watts of electricity per hour for the same amount of PAR light output.

This just shows that any and all HPS systems, whilst having huge lumen output figures, are extremely expensive to operate when you factor in the actual amount of PAR light they produce.
 

videoman40

Well-Known Member
You know what, this can go back & fourth all year long if I allow it to. I feel you distort the truth, you feel I distort the truth. I also think you like to twist what people say to suit your argument.
I think you are either
(A) a cop, (B)a lightingsalesman (cfl's of course) lol
or (C)someone with absolutely no life at all.
In either case, I'm outta here. My hat goes off to you.
 

babygro

Well-Known Member
You know what, this can go back & fourth all year long if I allow it to. I feel you distort the truth, you feel I distort the truth. I also think you like to twist what people say to suit your argument.
I can support factually everything I've said - you cannot, you basically just whiffle on about whatever your more informed buddy has told you, desperately (and failing) to refute everything I say.

HPS systems will remain the choice of the majority for the simple reasons that 1) Uninformed people on here and elswhere will continue to recommend them, 2) Because they output the highest number of lumens per watt of any horticultural system currently available, and 3) people who have no interest in understanding how plants use light will automatically use the biggest and best system they can get, safe in the knowledge that it will produce the results they want.

All I've tried to do here is point out that by understanding how plants use light and by looking at the levels of PAR the various systems output you can select a system that can save you an awful lot of money over the use of a HPS system. There will always be people who want the best results they can possibly get and for them the choice of HPS system is automatic. There are however a fairly large number of people on here who want the most efficient and cost effective solution for their own personal circumstances and the production of 'centrefold buds' is not their highest priority. For those people carefully selected systems based around compact or T5 fluorescents can produce results pretty close to those of HPS systems at a drastically reduced operating cost.

I'm perfectly happy for people to read the information I've put forward that is wholly based on fact and make thier own minds up as to what system is best suited to thier own personal cicrumcstances and what is truth and what is not.

What I won't put up with is people like you trying to suppress what I've been saying.

HPS systems should NOT be an automatic recommendation, it should be whatever system is best suited to the individual and that is not always a HPS system.
 

videoman40

Well-Known Member
Neither system should be an automatic response, I find it hard to believe you have anyones best interest at heart, other than your own ego.

Ps, i loved yr statement here;
2) Because they output the highest number of lumens per watt of any horticultural system currently available, and 3) people who have no interest in understanding how plants use light will automatically use the biggest and best system they can get, safe in the knowledge that it will produce the results they want.

when you buy a watt of electricity, its nice to know you are getting the most bang for the buck.

you what, I dont feel well at all today, and as I said. This is not worth the aggrivation.
 

Chinga_2_Madre

Well-Known Member
HPS systems will remain the choice of the majority for the simple reasons that 1) Uninformed people on here and elswhere will continue to recommend them, 2) Because they output the highest number of lumens per watt of any horticultural system currently available, and 3) people who have no interest in understanding how plants use light will automatically use the biggest and best system they can get, safe in the knowledge that it will produce the results they want.
It seems every website has someone who professes to know and then is trying to fool the crowd because they have already fooled themselves.

HID lighting is much much superior to CFL's. You have tried to back up your arguement based on "fuzzy math" and a simplistic view of lighting theory with tons of supposition.

Enough is enough.

HID lights will beat CFL's and produce superior results watt for watt. To dispute this is like saying "up is down" or "water is not wet". Misinformation is spread the way you are justifying your position.

CFL's are only good for really really small spaces and then you are growing with your foot on the plant's throat until you switch to HID. It is really that simple. See - no smoke and mirrors. :peace: :joint:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top