CannaWizard's (AMC) Lounge

cannawizard

cannawizard

Well-Known Member
*i also got these for testing r&d..


With its innovative design and high quality, radiant light, Kessil presents the A150W LED aquarium light. Using Dense Matrix LED technology to emulate a point-like source, A150W provides the shimmery effects of a metal halide without its excess power consumption and heat. Bring out the beauty of blue water and vivid colors of coral with the specially created spectrums of A150W.


Product Series


Actinic Special Blend
The DEEP OCEAN BLUE model's special blend of wavelengths emulates an actinic light for a deep blue color that brings water to life.


15000K* Special Blend
This unique mix of wavelengths closely resembles a 15000 K light, creating a visually stunning effect for water and coral in your aquarium.


10000K* Special Blend
The SKY BLUE model's distinctive spectrum emits light similar to a 10000 K light, emitting a natural looking light while providing coral with optimized wavelengths.*Color temperature for reference only, and is not a direct measurement of CCT.
 
cannawizard

cannawizard

Well-Known Member
Kaptain Kron said:
lol found a fabricator why didnt you same somthing man i do aerospace welding and machining for a living hahah i may not be workin right now but i knows mah shit. ;) cant wait to see that uVB setup sir.
Click to expand...
*wait you work for aerospace!? wtf.. you are you an asstronaut?? lol
 
cannawizard

cannawizard

Well-Known Member
Kaptain Kron said:
HAHAHAHAH THATS a fucked up thing to say bro rofl, eh i think that sky blue ones going to work the best probably lol couple people i know are running 10k tubes in their t5's i'd be using those for clones because they have a wider angle lens, they also make w150's specifically for plants that have wide angle lenses but not in those blues.
Click to expand...
*got off the phone w/ the kessil chick.. so my demands have been met.. haha, LEDmadness is on-the-way:hump::hump::hump:
 
Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
UV-B (280-315 nm) absorption properties for marijuana so i need a light that emits these light spectrums on the Kelvin scale? Is this right? Peace
 
cannawizard

cannawizard

Well-Known Member
Kingrow1 said:
UV-B (280-315 nm) absorption properties for marijuana so i need a light that emits these light spectrums on the Kelvin scale? Is this right? Peace
Click to expand...
*i dont think you'll find any uvb under kelvin tubes/cfls (regular ones).. the reptile bulbs have a coating on them of some sort, which i think, produces the UV-b... not sure tho... (or something to do w/ gasses within..)

 
cannawizard

cannawizard

Well-Known Member
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=+1]Types of Fluorescent Tube[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The fluorescent tubes available: [/FONT]

  1. [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Those designed to provide UVA plus UVB[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif], to enable vitamin D3 synthesis in reptiles/patients known to require it.[/FONT]
  2. [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Those designed to simulate "daylight"[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif], sometimes known as "full spectrum" lamps, emitting UVA but only very low levels of UVB.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]We have limited our survey (with one exception) to lamps stated by their manufacturers to be for the provision of UVB for vitamin D3 synthesis by reptiles. The exception was a single new Exo Terra Repti Glo 2.0 Daylight Terrarium Lamp which was included in a set of sample lamps donated to the project, and which we tested out of curiosity.[/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The "daylight" or "full spectrum" lights are not designed to enable vitamin D3 synthesis. However, several manufacturers suggest the use of these in conjunction with UVB-emitting tubes in order to improve the overall lighting quality inside the vivarium, increasing the UVA levels and the colour balance of the light.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]This certainly does have this effect. This can also be achieved with incandescent light, including some of the so-called "basking lamps" with improved colour balance. If heat as well as light is required at a basking spot, incandescent lamps may be a good alternative since fluorescent tubes produce very little heat.[/FONT]
 
cannawizard

cannawizard

Well-Known Member
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=+1]The Output of UVB Fluorescent Tubes[/SIZE]
All fluorescent tubes, unless fitted with a reflector of some type, emit light, including ultraviolet light, more or less evenly and symmetrically from their entire surface between the electrodes (situated about half an inch from the end of each tube). This radiation can be imagined as a cylinder, expanding and dissipating with increasing distance from the tube surface.[/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Manufacturers usually describe, for each product, the percentage of the total light output of the tube which is emitted as ultraviolet light. Hence a lamp may be described as producing "30% UVA and 5% UVB" and this would mean that the remaining 65% of output was emitted as visible light. This gives an indication of the balance between UVA, UVB and visible light but it does not indicate the intensity of ultraviolet illumination which can be expected; i.e., it does not distinguish between a dim, inefficient lamp and a bright, efficient one.[/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Our broadband UVB meters measure something different: the total UVB output in microwatts per square centimetre - the actual intensity of UVB illumination. As we have described earlier, this has advantages. [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]We can measure the amount of UVB available to a reptile at any given distance from the tube; we can plot the rate of decay of a tube over time; and we can compare two tubes of the same brand and wattage and see at a glance whether their output is the same. [/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]We can also plot the shape and extent of the "cylinder" of radiation put out by a lamp, and use this to help decide upon placement of a tube within a vivarium.[/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]However, we can only compare identical products. A higher reading does not necessarily indicate that the tube is better at promoting synthesis of vitamin D3. Different brands (with different phosphor blends and/or glass tubes, and therefore different proportions of UVB at various wavelengths) may have similar overall UVB output but vary in their ability to promote vitamin D3 synthesis. The results of new research should soon be available (see our Introduction to the Lighting Survey for details) but in the meantime we advise against comparing products against each other, based upon our test results here.[/FONT]
 
Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Just wondering how i reference the uv-b of a bulb, some cover large wavelengths.

But each flourescent emits uv light which in turn hits the phosphor coating emiting light of various wavelengths. Most reptile bulbs i have seen are simply quartz not glass as quartz lets most of this uv and uv-b light through combined with thinner phosphorous coating and you got a reptile uv-b flourescent light.

I just havent found a site that explains where uv light fits into the colour spectrum of certain lights but i suppose its more to do with the quartz and thinner phosphorous coating giving bulbs of 10percent / 8%/ 5% and 2% uv-b emiting properties.

Also the use of this would be to produce CBD which blocks the effects of THC mainly thus medicating without all the side effects or 'THC' Peace
 
cannawizard

cannawizard

Well-Known Member
Kingrow1 said:
Just wondering how i reference the uv-b of a bulb, some cover large wavelengths.

But each flourescent emits uv light which in turn hits the phosphor coating emiting light of various wavelengths. Most reptile bulbs i have seen are simply quartz not glass as quartz lets most of this uv and uv-b light through combined with thinner phosphorous coating and you got a reptile uv-b flourescent light.

I just havent found a site that explains where uv light fits into the colour spectrum of certain lights but i suppose its more to do with the quartz and thinner phosphorous coating giving bulbs of 10percent / 8%/ 5% and 2% uv-b emiting properties.

Also the use of this would be to produce CBD which blocks the effects of THC mainly thus medicating without all the side effects or 'THC' Peace
Click to expand...
*ppsstt... your on the right track... CBD... Uv-b... follow the yellow brick road... ;)

--cheers
 
Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
So even if you bought a reptile uv-b light it may not even emit much uv in the plant required spectrum and there is little way to test? Peace
 
cannawizard

cannawizard

Well-Known Member
SOLARMETER
MODEL 6.2 UV METER UVB

SENSITIVE MICROWATT VERSION


[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][SIZE=-1]
[/SIZE][/FONT]
​





Features
  • Integral Sensor

  • Compact

  • Durable

  • Accurate

  • LCD readout



Applications

  • Lamp UVB Intensity & Aging

  • Reptile Lamps

  • Acrylic Shield Transmission

  • Percent (%) UVB if divided by reading from
    Model 5.7 (UVA + B)

  • Eyewear UV block comparison
Solarmeter Specifications



RadiometerModel6.2Irrad. Range0-1999 µW/cm² UVBResponse280-320 nmResolution1 µW/cm²Conv. Rate3.0 Readings/SecDisplay3.5 Digit LCDDigit Size0.4 inch highOper. Temp 32° F TO 90° FOper. Humid.5% TO 80% RHAccuracy±10% REF.NISTDimensions (in.)4.2L x 2.4W x 0.9D (in.)Weight4.5 OZ. (incl. batt.)Power Source9-Volt DC BatteryLensUV GlassDiffuserVirgin Teflon .003"










Sensor
Silicon Carbide (SIC) Photodiode packaged in hermetically sealed UV glass window cap. Interference filter coating (Metal Oxide) blocks most UVA from response as shown on Spectral Sensitivity Graph.​

Operation
Press and hold push-button switch on face of unit. Aim sensor window in top panel of meter directly at UV source. Note reading on LCD and record if desired. For reptile lamps also check at "basking" position.​

Battery operation voltage is 9V down to 6.5V. Below 6.5V the LCD numbers will begin to dim, indicating the need for battery replacement. Under "typical" service load, the battery should last about 2 years.​





Proper Usage of Solarmeter ® Ultraviolet Radiometer for Lamp Aging Tests
  • Wear eye protection when checking UV lamps (UV-block wrap around glasses).
  • Allow lamps to warm-up prior to taking readings (at least 5 min).
  • When checking aging of lamps, keep measuring distance and locations constant.
  • Lamps should be replaced when output drops 30% to about 70% of their original (new) readings. Take overall reading at exposure distance, or check individual lamps close to surface. Keep track of hours vs. readings on a chart.
  • If unsure of what original new values were, replace lamp(s) with new ones of the same kind and compare to old ones.
  • To determine percent UVB divide Model 6.2 reading by Model 5.7 total UV (UVA + B) reading. (See FAQ page).
  • When checking UVT acrylic transmission, take reading through acrylic; then remove acrylic and hold meter sensor at approximately the same distance from lamp as the acrylic shield was located. If acrylic blocks much UVB it should be replaced.
  • When using this meter to compare different type lamps, due to their different spectral power distributions, the readings should be considered relative rather than absolute. Although higher output lamps of similar SPD's will generally read higher than lower output lamps, ones that peak near 290-300 nm (as does the meter response) will read higher than ones peaking near 313 nm even if the total UVB output of both is the same.
  • Do not subject the meter to extremes in temperature, humidity, shock or dust.
  • Use a dry, soft cloth to clean the intrument. Keep sensor free of oil, dirt, etc.
 
cannawizard

cannawizard

Well-Known Member
Kingrow1 said:
Yer your meter says it dosent distinguish between wavelengths of uv-b light so i guess not? Peace
Click to expand...
..i guess you want this one then..

SOLARMETER

MODEL 7.5 UV METER W/m2 ERYTHEMALLY EFFECTIVE (Eeff) UVR
​


[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][SIZE=-1]
[/SIZE][/FONT]
​



Features
  • Integral Sensor

  • Compact

  • Durable

  • Accurate

  • LCD readout

Applications

  • W/m2 Ery Lamp/Sun Output

    Check EU 0.3 W/m2 Maximum

  • Acrylic Shield Transmission

  • Eyewear UV block comparison
Solarmeter Specifications

RadiometerModel7.5Irrad. Range19.99 W/m2 Ery Response280-400 nm Diffey Erythermal Action SpectrumResolution0.01 W/m2Conv. Rate3.0 Readings/SecDisplay3.5 Digit LCDDigit Size0.4 inch highOper. Temp 32° F TO100° FOper. Humid.5% TO 80% RHAccuracy±10% REF.NISTDimensions (in.)4.2L x 2.4W x 0.9D (inches)Weight4.5 OZ. (incl. batt.)Power Source9-Volt DC BatteryLensUV GlassDiffuserVirgin Teflon .005DetectorSIC/IF Photodiode
Med/hr Meter Spectral Response​



Blue Line: Meter response Black Line: Erythemal response​


Sensor/Detector
Silicon Carbide (SIC) Photodiode packaged in hermetically sealed UV glass window cap.
Interference filter coating (Metal Oxide) blocks UV above erythermal response as show on Spectral Sensitivity Graph.​


Operation
Press and hold push-button switch on face of unit. Aim sensor window in top panel of meter directly at UV source. For tanning beds place meter at body position. Note reading on LCD and record if desired.​

Battery operation voltage is 9V down to 6.5V. Below 6.5V the LCD numbers will begin to dim, indicating the need for battery replacement. Under "typical" service load, the battery should last about 2 years.​



Proper Usage of Solarmeter ® Ultraviolet Radiometer for Lamp Tests:

  • <li class="normmiddletext">Wear UV-block eye protection when checking UV lamps.

    <li class="normmiddletext">Allow lamps to warm-up prior to taking readings (at least 5 min).

    <li class="normmiddletext">Hold sensor close to lamp or acrylic to measure individual lamp Eeff intensity. Hold sensor at 25 cm above bench with canopy closed for body position reading.

    <li class="normmiddletext">When checking aging of lamps, keep measuring distance and locations constant.

    <li class="normmiddletext">Lamps should be replaced when output drops to about 70% of their original (new) readings. Keep track of hours vs. readings on a chart.

    <li class="normmiddletext">If unsure of what original new values were, replace two adjacent lamps with new ones of the same kind and compare old ones.

    <li class="normmiddletext">When checking acrylic transmission, take reading through acrylic; then remove acrylic and hold meter sensor at approximately the same distance from lamp as the acrylic shield was located. If acrylic blocks much UV it should be replaced.

    <li class="normmiddletext">Do not subject the meter to extremes in temperature, humidity, shock or dust.
  • Use a dry, soft cloth to clean the intrument. Keep sensor free of oil, dirt, etc.
 
cannawizard

cannawizard

Well-Known Member
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=+1][SIZE=+2]Make Yourself a UVB Spread Chart.[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT]​

[SIZE=+1][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]A simple guide to constructing a Spread Chart[/FONT][/SIZE]​












[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=+1]WARNING: UV RADIATION HAZARD[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]When making a spread chart you are working very close to the lamp and with mercury vapour lamps in particular, you may expose yourself to strong UVB radiation. Do not take un-necessary risks. [/FONT]

​








[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]You do this at your own risk.[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]DO NOT LOOK INTO THE LAMP[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Wear suitable UV-protective glasses or goggles[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Wear protective clothing (eg. long sleeves; hat) and use high SPF sun cream on any exposed skin (eg. face and hands)[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Avoid all un-necessary exposure to the UVB beam and work under the lamp for as short a time as possible. [/FONT]​



[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]UV RADIATION CAN DAMAGE EYES AND SKIN[/FONT]​









[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=+1]Constructing a Spread Chart:[/SIZE][/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=+1]1. The Mercury Vapour Lamp[/SIZE][/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]A UVB Spread Chart is a particularly useful tool for visualising the extent of the UVB coverage of a lamp. This chart is useful as it enables predictions to be made of the UVB levels which various basking platforms, etc, will receive in a vivarium. It enables estimation of the level of UVB a reptile would expose itself to, if it sat in any given spot relative to the lamp (Fig. 1.is an example of how a chart can be used in this way.)[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]To make a Spread Chart, it is necessary to record the output of the lamp in a two-dimensional plane directly beneath and to the sides of the lamp face (Fig.2). Direct readings are taken from several hundred points in this plane, and plotted on a chart so that a two-dimensional visualisation of the three-dimensional “cone” of radiation emitted by the lamp can be visualised.[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Preparing to Record the Spread Chart[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]


It is easiest to work beneath a bright lamp, since the light does not shine directly into your eyes. You will need to hang the lamp a short distance from a wall (8 - 10 inches away should prove satisfactory). [/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The beam of UVB light from a hanging mercury vapour lamp may extend a considerable distance beneath the lamp. If direct recordings have already been taken from below the lamp, you will already have a clear idea of how far below the lamp the useful beam extends. Angling the meter towards the lamp from the side will give you a rough idea of how wide the beam will be. Fasten a suitably large sheet of non-reflective paper or card to the wall - you will be plotting the full-size chart onto this. If the lamp is very powerful (such as a lamp for zoos) the chart may be so large that you might consider drawing straight onto the wall. Use a water-soluble pencil in this case![/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]


[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]The most difficult part of this enterprise is ensuring that the UVB meter is kept in the same plane throughout the recording session. The easiest way to do this is to tape or blue-tack the meter to a set square or spirit level rule, which is then held against the wall. A pointer of some sort may be affixed to the other end of the set square or rule, such that its tip corresponds to the relative position of the meter sensor. (see Figs. 2 and 3.)[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Plotting the Contours[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]You are now going to take readings from the meter, angled so that it is aiming directly at the lamp surface (direct readings) whilst keeping the meter exactly the same distance from the wall – so all your readings are in the same vertical plane as the wall..it is then a fair cross section of the lamp’s output. You are going to plot the UVB "contours" - the furthest points at which given outputs (eg. 50, 100, 200, 300uW/cm² and so on) are found.[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]To plot the UVB contours, move the meter back and forth, tipping it gently to scan for the furthest distance from the lamp at which it is possible to record the output you are working on. Use the rule to transfer your data to the card on the wall, by marking each reading at the corresponding point on the card (see Fig. 2.)[/FONT]​



[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]


Fig. 4 shows a spread chart being plotted for a low-output mercury vapour lamp; the readings are being taken for the 20uW/cm² contour.[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]You can then literally “join up the dots” to obtain the spread chart and visualise the shape of the UVB beam. From this full size chart, a scale diagram may be prepared, if required. All the Spread Charts featured on this website were constructed in this way.[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Completing the Spread Chart[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]If the chart is small enough, it may be scanned, in sections, into an image-editing program. If it is too large, then the easiest way to transfer the data to the computer is to draw a grid onto the full-size chart and produce an accurate, scaled-down copy of the whole chart on a sheet of graph paper, which can then be scanned into an image-editing program.[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Most editing programs which utilise layer technology would be suitable; I use Photoshop Elements. Over the scanned image, I first construct the grid, and then trace the contours - for this, a graphics tablet and pen makes life easier. [/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Fig. 5 (below) show[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]s a typical example of a full size spread chart at completion. This used three A1-sized sheets of card and measured nearly 4ft across. Fig. 6 shows the scale diagram of the spread chart, obtained from the full-size version [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]as described above [/FONT].[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The final result can, of course, be coloured and converted into a useful visualisation of the UVB beam of the lamp in question by over-laying it onto a photograph of the lamp in use in a vivarium. This chart, for example, is the one featured in Fig.1 (at the top of the page). Great care must be taken to record key measurements within the vivarium, such as the distance from the lamp surface to the basking shelf, so that the chart may be scaled up accurately over the photograph.[/FONT]​

​

​







[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=+1]


2. The Fluorescent Tube and Compact Lamp[/SIZE][/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Spread charts for most fluorescent tubes and compact lamps are smaller, since the UVB output is usually relatively low. In most cases, the chart may be plotted on a single A1-size sheet of paper or card. This is placed on a table or test bench to which the lamp is mounted, either horizontally or vertically depending upon the desired orientation of the chart. The principle is exactly the same as for the mercury vapour lamp.[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Fig. 7 shows a spread chart being constructed for a fluorescent tube. The tube is held in position at a suitable working height over a test bench, to enable the UVB gradient to be plotted parallel to the axis of the lamp. Fig. 8 shows the spread chart for this lamp, a new ZooMed Reptisun 5.0 tube.[/FONT]​

​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]If the tube is mounted vertically on the test bench, the UVB gradient at right angles to the axis of the lamp may be plotted. This orientation was used in the construction of some of the spread charts and vivarium overlays featured in the section on fluorescent tubes.[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Fig. 9 shows a spread chart being constructed for a compact fluorescent lamp, using an early version of the DIY "set square" meter holder, fixed to a plastic block and ruler aligned with the sensor. In this example the UVB gradient is being plotted in the horizontal plane, i.e., perpendicular to the axis of the lamp. The sensor is positioned at a level half-way up the lamp face.[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Spread charts plotted for horizontally-mounted and vertically-mounted compact lamps are featured in the section on compact lamps.[/FONT]​











[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=+1]Contribute your recordings![/SIZE] [/FONT]​
 
Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Ah so a different coating on the sensor blocks the interference from other wavelengths to a certain extent with the higher the wavelength the more its blocked leaving the sensor mainly focused on the wavelengths left.

This is clever since the reverse is how the allow uv-b light to escape reptile lights, surely the same coating applied to the sensor would eliminate these wavelengths from a reptile bulb making a more marijuana uv-b plant specific bulb.

I will carry on reading up dude, thanks. Peace
 
Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
I wondered how they found the perfect position for placement of uv-b lights, very clever, also shows you safe distances between you and equipment from the light. Peace
 
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