Room30's HP Aero Cabinet

[boodadood]

for sure i gotta do tons more readin up on this before i get into it but thanks for the guidance on the other reputable threads...mcmaster has an adapter fitting to go to barb, p/n 53505K61...its in stainless but stainless makes sense for corrosion due to other metals in the nutes...reliability can be huge with fittings which is why i asked the question in the first place...i never used the JC fittings before

i guess whats not falling into place for me is the flow path...lemme cad it up real quick n show you my understanding of it...be back in a sec

 

[boodadood]

so the way i see it is...off the pump there is a check valve and then a tee...the accumulator is teed off and there is a relief valve there if you want...on the other side of the tee is the solenoid(s) to the misters....the solenoid is set on a timer, when it comes on it draws from the accumulator...nothing goes back to the pump cuz of the check..once the accumulator is emptied or reaches a certain pressure, the pump kicks on and refills it...when refilling the tank, the solenoid remains closed

is this how it works? also, do you use a pressure transducer to tell the pump when to turn on? how does the pump know when to work?

my other questions about recirculating were about HPA as well...what if the drained water left over from misting is recycled back to the feed reservoir somehow? is that acceptable in HPA? maybe with gravity helpin ya out or somethin? idk...i hate the word waste..lol

thanks again bro

BD

 

[r0m30]

Ok, let me try and walk you through it. My Sketchup skillz are nil but here's a try.

This is the basic flow of the nutrient solution:

Nutrients start in the reservoir -----> pre-filter (DMF0404) ----> pump (CDP6800), ----> differential pressure switch (PSW280) ----> pressure gauge (pressure out of the pump or unregulated pressure) ----> tee to accumulator ----> pressure regulator (P60-M5-2C) ----> solenoid ---> misters in chamber ----> waste vessel.

The PRV is in the line that runs to the accumulator.


I tried to give you the part numbers so you can reference back to the pieces and parts section of the post.

Check valves can be used wherever you would like but I haven't found a need for them in my setup yet.

The differential pressure switch controls the pump, you set it to cut in a few (two is recommended) PSI higher than the accumulator pre-charge and cut out at the max pressure you would like the accumulator to be charged at.

The solenoid is not tied into the pressure switch, it can fire while the system is re-charging. When I flush my system I have the misters spray continuously and the pump refills the accumulator although not as rapidly.

Most people would tell you not to recirculate in a HPA setup. It's your grow, if you want to go ahead but you will lose some of the benefits of the system. Your res will not be stable and you'll probably end up using more water that if you went drain to waste.

I think that covered your questions.

 

[boodadood]

it most certainly did...thank you sir and good luck...awesome sketch n awesome thread...i'll be watchin!

 

[ilikecheetoes]

How loud is the actual pump? How about the "clacking" from the sprayers snapping on and off from pressure?

 

[r0m30]

The aquatecs are very quiet, when I first plugged mine in I had to feel it to make sure it was running, the shurflo's are loud enough that most people feel the need to put them in some type of sound dampening box.

When the cabinet is open you can hear the sprayers when the cloner cycles and the "clacking" when the solenoid opens and closes. With the cabinet closed you can only hear the solenoid and it is kind of sounds like someone flicking their finger against a piece of plastic, it doesn't travel outside the room if the door is closed. I tried to select quiet components when I put this together, that's why I went with the Panasonic whisper fan for ventilation.

 

[boodadood]

hi r0m30, is the solenoid valve in your parts list located between the regulated pressure gauge and the misters in your diagram?

thanks,
BD

 

[r0m30]

It would be if I'd remembered to put it in

 

[ilikecheetoes]

well i just reread most of the cavadge thread, the treefarmer thread and true hp aero for 2011 thread again. I read cavadge probably a year ago. Since then I've been plodding along with vertical rdwc ala earls setup with 3 vertical 400s.
Im about to start a new room with HPAero.
Im used to scrogging with plants 8" on center, no veg time, 9 week flower. But everything i've reread is pointing me towards 1 plant per 5gallon bucket at a minimum.
Thoughts on high volume of smaller plants using HPA?

 

[Mike Young]

High volume of smaller plants is absolutely fine. The atomix was basically setup like that. Just give yourself a large enough root chamber. I would think a minimum of 24" deep. There was a guy on here called deximus. He cut the top off of one of those 500 gallon poly crates they use for various liquids. I wouldn't mind getting my hands on one of those myself. He disappeared some time ago, like so many seem to do.

 

[ilikecheetoes]

nice. I whipped this up in sketchup just trying to get a feel for space. Imagine a 4x4 tent here. The chambers are 12x48x24. netpots on 10" centers. Still only jamming 24 plants in the space.
I grow 3 levels vertical and because the chambers have to be so tall i can only get 2 levels here.
Anyway keep up the good work guys. I'm 4 months from starting my HPA and am just starting to map it out and buy parts.

 

[r0m30]

Imagine a 4x4 tent here. The chambers are 12x48x24.

OK, if I do a little math I have the pods sticking out of the tent all over the place. Don't either the side pods need to be 12x36x24 or the back pods need to be 12x24x24? Even then you should probably leave a little room for the tent frame.

 

[ilikecheetoes]

yea ye. my math sucks. i was just throwing some figure together to see what I could pack in. the deepness is the problem. Possibly a stadium. My sketchup skills are terrible but this gives me something to practice on.

 

[boodadood]

hi r0m30,

i hope im not being a pain in the ass...but i finished making a layout of the system im going to build and i would like some imput if you could...i didnt want to post the pics here so i posted them here in the diy forum...basically im looking if i got everything straight with whats plumbed to what and some help with the wiring...this is the first time i will be doing anything like this in terms of wiring it up to work so im pretty green

thanks in advance again,
BD

 

[foresakenlion]

Instead of cutting cords, get some zip ties, and some strink wrap, that's what computer geeks use to keep all those ethernet/power cords tidy, they have these clips to then attach it to the walls, but don't worry until you get your layout set for the longterm.

LOL no joke about Amtrol's site sucking the big one, everything is outdated on there, no information except one section with no hard details.

IMHO from personal experience tents suck for moderating temperture, this has lead me to the concept of a large open space being better, passive cooling in effect, larger air volume, in a tent situation you'd want to somehow insulate the entire outside of the tent, and then use an extremely high air flow, as the light inside there is vicious on the plants. Personally I see tents as an overpriced item I got ripped off on for being gullible, never again, reflectix, or flat white paint w/ extra titanium dioxide from the art store.

BTW can you link me to that sweet tray based carbon filter diy, I saw one of those in Remo's grow show, it was like two grand but refillable carbon trays, that's the most effective for a sealed room where air is recirculating.

 

[RavenMochi]

. Personally I see tents as an overpriced item I got ripped off on for being gullible, never again, reflectix, or flat white paint w/ extra titanium dioxide from the art store.

Thats exactly how I feel about when I bought 2 different breeds of autos, and got a third free. I was gullible and ignorant to the idea of 12/12 from seed (which in itself is stupid, really, how hard is it to come to such a conclusion?! *sighs*) or early finishing strains that could produce as much or more bud, in the same time, of higher quality, and using 1/2 the lighting hours.

 

[r0m30]

IMHO from personal experience tents suck for moderating temperture

Cabinets have similar issues but I wanted the grow to be as unobtrusive as possible so here I am.

BTW can you link me to that sweet tray based carbon filter diy, I saw one of those in Remo's grow show, it was like two grand but refillable carbon trays, that's the most effective for a sealed room where air is recirculating.

Sure, here is the thread on ICMag

Thats exactly how I feel about when I bought 2 different breeds of autos, and got a third free. I was gullible and ignorant to the idea of 12/12 from seed (which in itself is stupid, really, how hard is it to come to such a conclusion?! *sighs*) or early finishing strains that could produce as much or more bud, in the same time, of higher quality, and using 1/2 the lighting hours.

Yes. growing certainly has more than it's fare share of myths, snake oil salesmen and bad ideas.

 

[foresakenlion]

Thats exactly how I feel about when I bought 2 different breeds of autos, and got a third free. I was gullible and ignorant to the idea of 12/12 from seed (which in itself is stupid, really, how hard is it to come to such a conclusion?! *sighs*) or early finishing strains that could produce as much or more bud, in the same time, of higher quality, and using 1/2 the lighting hours.

Autos aren't for size, if you want size from an Auto then I'll tell you exactly what to do, you run it 18/6 and get Iranian Autoflowers, they grow to 3-4", having a rest cycle helps, Autos are not really meant for the things you want, they're the ultimate gorilla grow tool, they will grow anywhere, and they will self pollinate large open areas of the wilderness, without human intervention, that's their ideal purpose, however they just became popular with people that like doing SOG and SCROG because of their extremely dialed in height characteristics, minimizing the hassle of building a canopy net, therefore, massive buzz, once you got what they're for down then you get it, autos are really an insurance against something the Soviets had said about introducing a type of cannabis that would be THC free, the DEA had similar ideas, however what they did not know is that in the morphological RNA of Cannabis it's actually 3 or 4 depending on if you count Afghanica, configurations Ruderalis being the type that is not photo sensitive.

Thanks for the link.

Well there are some strains that finish earlier, and mostly the Afghanica and the Indica are the ones that Bonsai, Equatorial Sativa they tend to take longer and grow more like a vine, as we all know, but because of this growth pattern they're less susceptible to the heat of the rain forests.

Well I'd imagine half of them are honest shysters, the other half are just trying to spread disinfo, I mean this isn't exactly something the DEA isn't trying to ruin. In fact nature is basically being copyrighted step by step right now with GMO. Eventually who knows how long from now if anything won't have a label or a copyright or a tm on it.

Suggestion, master aero, keep heirloom seeds, actually master as many varied forms of hydro and farming as you can, cause it will be needed at some point.

 

[foresakenlion]

No one's posted to this for awhile, I'm stuck getting my diagram and sourcing parts, seems to me the hardest part about true high pressure aeroponics is the logistics, and how that's daunting in this autism like age. r0m kindly update us when you have a chance.

 

[RavenMochi]

Autos aren't for size, if you want size from an Auto then I'll tell you exactly what to do, you run it 18/6 and get Iranian Autoflowers, they grow to 3-4", having a rest cycle helps, Autos are not really meant for the things you want, they're the ultimate gorilla grow tool, they will grow anywhere, and they will self pollinate large open areas of the wilderness, without human intervention, that's their ideal purpose, however they just became popular with people that like doing SOG and SCROG because of their extremely dialed in height characteristics, minimizing the hassle of building a canopy net, therefore, massive buzz, once you got what they're for down then you get it, autos are really an insurance against something the Soviets had said about introducing a type of cannabis that would be THC free, the DEA had similar ideas, however what they did not know is that in the morphological RNA of Cannabis it's actually 3 or 4 depending on if you count Afghanica, configurations Ruderalis being the type that is not photo sensitive.

Thanks for the link.

Well there are some strains that finish earlier, and mostly the Afghanica and the Indica are the ones that Bonsai, Equatorial Sativa they tend to take longer and grow more like a vine, as we all know, but because of this growth pattern they're less susceptible to the heat of the rain forests.

Well I'd imagine half of them are honest shysters, the other half are just trying to spread disinfo, I mean this isn't exactly something the DEA isn't trying to ruin. In fact nature is basically being copyrighted step by step right now with GMO. Eventually who knows how long from now if anything won't have a label or a copyright or a tm on it.

Suggestion, master aero, keep heirloom seeds, actually master as many varied forms of hydro and farming as you can, cause it will be needed at some point.

You are the first person thats given me a decent reason for their existence. I've challenged many an auto grower and had bullshit reasons I shot down, but that is fucking valid. Nice. Makes me want to order a pack and throw it in an open field...