White spots help

snew

snew

Well-Known Member
I was unable to see and thing with the naked eye or with my magnifier, its a little to strong for bug hunting. I have been using neem but that does seem to be doing the trick it appears to be worsening. This is the first real problem I've faced. Any other suggestions.
 
elnene

elnene

Active Member
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ClamDigger

ClamDigger

Active Member
SHIT!
thats an infestation....... (Spider Mites)
personally, since they are in bud already, i would just wipe the underside of EVERY leaf with a neemy cloth.
this will break up their very fine webs (usually invisible to the naked eye, but spray a little mist around those plants and then i bet you will see the little fuckers) and squish most of the adults. this will set the mites back a few weeks, and it does not involve spraying buds.
after harvest time rolls around FUCKING BOMB the room with insecticides and miticides (wear RESPIRATOR) then after that airs out give everything a heavy neem.
i hate mites!
some info
Chemical control of spider mites generally involves pesticides that are specifically developed for spider mite control (miticides or acaricides). Few insecticides are effective for spider mites and many even aggravate problems. Furthermore, strains of spider mites resistant to pesticides frequently develop, making control difficult. Because most miticides do not affect eggs, a repeat application at an approximately 10- to 14-day interval is usually needed for control. Since an egg can develop into a mature spider mite able to lay eggs of its own in as little as 9 days, more frequent application may be required in hot, dry conditions. Neem oil may provide control, when combined with a suitable surfactant and diluted with water. As with chemical control, repeated applications are required.
Various insects and predatory mites feed on spider mites and provide a high level of natural control. One group of small, dark-coloured lady beetles (Stethorus species) are specialised predators of spider mites.[3] Minute pirate bugs (Orius; family Anthocoridae), big-eyed bugs (Geocoris species) and predatory thrips can be important natural enemies.[3]
Many mites in the family Phytoseiidae are predators of spider mites.[3] In addition to those that occur naturally, some of these are produced in commercial insectaries for release as biological controls. Among those most commonly sold via mail order are Galendromus occidentalis, Phytoseiulus persimilis, Mesoseiulus longipes, Amblyseius fallicus, and Neoseiulus californicus.[3] Predatory mites eat adult mites, their eggs, and all developmental stages between.[3] Predatory mites can consume as many as 5 adult spider mites per day, or 20 eggs per day.[3]
View attachment 1769888
a closeup of the nasty buggers ^
 
jamiesname

jamiesname

Well-Known Member
Pick up some Mighty Wash. You can spray it on the plant the day of harvest if you need to. It's just electrically charged water that delivers a strong enough shock to the mites to kill them without harming your plant.

Make sure you have a decent fan to blow on the plants though to dry up whatever is left over, and do it on a dry day. You don't want to cause your plant to mold.
 
snew

snew

Well-Known Member
It is in my seedlings and clones also. All but one is 2 1/2 weeks into flower so.... I gave everything a spray with spinosad http://web.pppmb.cals.cornell.edu/resourceguide/mfs/13spinosad.php. They don't say anything in the MDS about using it with marijuana in flower, can you believe that. I figure I got 6-7 weeks before harvest. An my rooms have a joining air so I have got to treat it or I'll have nothing.
 
W

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
I use FORBID myself. It kills adults, larvae and eggs. It is 100%, 1 application. It is also a bit toxic @1/8 tsp/gallon strength.

You can find affordable amounts on ebay. It is extremely expensive and you need a license to purchase, but a $20-1/4 oz bottle will last you forever.

You can do battle with them, or eliminate them. Your choice. I just don't fuck around with the borg.

Wet
 
snew

snew

Well-Known Member
Wetdog said:
I use FORBID myself. It kills adults, larvae and eggs. It is 100%, 1 application. It is also a bit toxic @1/8 tsp/gallon strength.

You can find affordable amounts on ebay. It is extremely expensive and you need a license to purchase, but a $20-1/4 oz bottle will last you forever.

You can do battle with them, or eliminate them. Your choice. I just don't fuck around with the borg.

Wet
Click to expand...
Thanks Wet. I never had any real problems inside with any thing like this. I have some about 3 weeks into flower and my other seedlings and clones are each about 3 weeks old.
Have you used it flower? I would like to eliminate the shits. I have 3 new strains I just started and it appears the are on my Tangerine Dream
 
Wolverine97

Wolverine97

Well-Known Member
Spider mites for sure, no doubt about it. There's a new product out called Mighty Wash that kills them on contact, adults, juveniles, and eggs. You can use it right up to harvest day. I haven't used it myself, because I'm a fucking Nazi about preventing bugs in the first place, but it comes highly recommended by people that I trust.
 
W

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
snew said:
Thanks Wet. I never had any real problems inside with any thing like this. I have some about 3 weeks into flower and my other seedlings and clones are each about 3 weeks old.
Have you used it flower? I would like to eliminate the shits. I have 3 new strains I just started and it appears the are on my Tangerine Dream
Click to expand...
I've never used it in flower, I'll hit clones a day or 2 before the flip, but I know others who have used it up to 3 weeks in with no apparent ill effects. It does have a 30 day residual and the sheet says to not re apply, or apply anything else. I've never needed to do a second application in any event.

Just don't over do it. Read and re read the sheet that comes with it. I usually only need a qt of solution for 10-15, 1 1/2' plants and all that requires is a few drops of the stuff. Very potent!!!

Not a systemic, but it will translocate from the top of the leaf to the bottom, so you don't have to be super anal about hitting every surface. I still try and do the bottoms, but don't go crazy trying.

Of course wear protective clothing. Gloves and goggles at a minimum. It's not something to play around with, like most things that actually work.

Wet
 
Nullis

Nullis

Moderator
Pyrethrins + piperonyl butoxide doesn't kill mites anymore?

I would use pyrethrins in bloom just because it breaks down quite rapidly (too rapidly) and isn't toxic to people, but very toxic to the nerves of insects. It's botanically derived and allowed in commercial organic agriculture, although the other ingredient commonly found along with it might not be. It prevents the pyrehtrin from breaking down too fast and increases its effect on the insect. Both of these ingredients are in products intended for human use to kill head lice.

Pyrehtrin spray is usually widely available at home improvement stores. That Mighty Wash sure does sound interesting as well.
 
snew

snew

Well-Known Member
Thanks for all of the input, everyoine. Will the white spots clear up or is that permanent damage to the leaves?
 
elnene

elnene

Active Member
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snew

snew

Well-Known Member
Well the plants really look healthy other wise. I'll remove leaves that are dying. thanks

I sprayed with need 3 days ago, and spinosad 2 days ago. These are the things that I had on hand. They really do look fairly healthy to be honest. Spinosad can be sprayed on vegetables to be harvested the next day. So I feel OK about using it in harvest if I have to use any thing.
Temps are dropping a lot tonight for the second time, so I'll be getting the HPS out tonight. I'm already growing well but the increased light will hopefully boost new grow so I'll have plenty of healthy leaf.
As for the seedlings and clones I plan try the forbid that Wetdog suggested.
I wiped down with bleach water in the room that should be good for the room its self, I hope.
All in all I'm luck this is the 1st time I've face this kind of a problem.
I do intent to get a heavy
 
Wolverine97

Wolverine97

Well-Known Member
snew said:
Well the plants really look healthy other wise. I'll remove leaves that are dying. thanks

I sprayed with need 3 days ago, and spinosad 2 days ago. These are the things that I had on hand. They really do look fairly healthy to be honest. Spinosad can be sprayed on vegetables to be harvested the next day. So I feel OK about using it in harvest if I have to use any thing.
Temps are dropping a lot tonight for the second time, so I'll be getting the HPS out tonight. I'm already growing well but the increased light will hopefully boost new grow so I'll have plenty of healthy leaf.
As for the seedlings and clones I plan try the forbid that Wetdog suggested.
I wiped down with bleach water in the room that should be good for the room its self, I hope.
All in all I'm luck this is the 1st time I've face this kind of a problem.
I do intent to get a heavy
Click to expand...
Just make sure you wait at least three days between applications, whatever you're using. There's really no point in doing more, their eggs hatch approximately every 3-4 days.
 
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