Help, Leaves dying

[Kingrow1]

ph'ed water means you tested the ph (acid vs alkaline) of your water and it falls between 5.5-6.5. outside that range and nutrients are locked out or unavailable. I personally use drops but for 10-20 you should be able to buy a digital one. either way you need to know what your ph is.
You need to flush with water that is 5.5-6.5 and then make sure the dilluted nute solution you feed it is ph'ed to the same range. Given you only have colors on your meter, bad ph would be a good guess as to the cause of your problem. I don't think you'll have any problem getting your flowers thru the last two weeks if you flush them immediately.
I thought you were using coco for medium in your grow but if you're not, flushing should work about the same regardless of the medium you're using. If you're in soil, ask some specific advice for soil although i think running about 2x the volume of your pot is probably the right thing to do.

Its to do with hydrogen ions and alkaline ions balancing themselves out to give you a stable pH or what we call buffering, coco has a good cation exchange rate so bufferes easily, probably why it sucks up cal/mag as they consist of alkaline ions. Peace

 

[Jack Harer]

Thanks for the reply Kack Harer, your absolutely correct in that those leaves do indeed crumble when you take hold of them, they are truly bone dry.

So it looks as though (Botanicares Cal-Mag) is the cure, but i am not sure if i can buy that in the UK, i'l have look around the net and see if i can find some, should i still flush the plants first????

It'll be pretty slow release. but you can use eggshell ground up really fine and epsom salts. I don't know if they call them something else across the pond but its just magnesium sulfate. Top dress the egg shell and use 1 tbsp per gal of the epsom salts. I have aso heard of people using ground up calcium supplements (vitamins), but have I no personal experience with that. You can find recipes for homemade cal/mag on several sites, in fact I'm sure I saw one here a couple years ago. I'd be really surprised if there wasn't one lurking about here somewhere. There is a whole lotta knowledge floating around in this place.

 

[Kingrow1]

Epsom salts - magnesium sulphate - Magnesium and Sulphur. Available everywhere.

 

[max316420]

So what was the problem?

 

[Kingrow1]

Can anyone please help me diagnose this plant problem, the plants are growing indoors in a proper tent, ie shop bought one specifically for the job.

I have only about two weeks to go till cropping, these plants have been growing perfectly, till about 5 days ago. The leaves started turning upwards along the length of each finger of the leaves and turning a sort of darkish straw color. Each side of the each finger (if i can call them fingers) turned upwards and in to touch the center of the leaf strip, once the leaf fingers turned really dry, they then turned downwards from the end tip. This problem is slowly spreading to all other leaves, i desperately need to cure this problem before i loose all my plants

Once the leaves turn fully fawn color, they drop off the plants all together, just like leaves do on treas at fall. The buds were just starting to swell beatifully, but now there growth has either slowed some or stopped swelling all together, i'm not sure which just now.

I have taken some photos of the affected leaves, but i don't know how to get the photo's on to the computer, i am hoping to get some one to show me how to do it tomorrow, in which case i will post them at that time.

Any help in the mean time would gratefully received, thanks in advance for any replies.

Either way flush and reapply nutes cal/mag.

Look guys if it had of been cal/mag it would have probably plagued his whole grow not just shown in the last 5/6 days. I feel you are just going for the easy answers here!

 

[ralf]

ph'ed water means you tested the ph (acid vs alkaline) of your water and it falls between 5.5-6.5. outside that range and nutrients are locked out or unavailable. I personally use drops but for 10-20 you should be able to buy a digital one. either way you need to know what your ph is.
You need to flush with water that is 5.5-6.5 and then make sure the dilluted nute solution you feed it is ph'ed to the same range. Given you only have colors on your meter, bad ph would be a good guess as to the cause of your problem. I don't think you'll have any problem getting your flowers thru the last two weeks if you flush them immediately.
I thought you were using coco for medium in your grow but if you're not, flushing should work about the same regardless of the medium you're using. If you're in soil, ask some specific advice for soil although i think running about 2x the volume of your pot is probably the right thing to do.

p { margin-bottom: 0.21cm; }
I have been looking on ebay for digital ph meters, but they all seem to be meters for pools, are they the same thing that I need?


What should I do, if my tap water is not is not between 5.5 and 65, how would I alter it?
I am using Canna professional+ growing medium, is that good or bad?

The last lot I grew, (my first lot) I used a growing medium with bat dung in it, it worked ok, but I was told that the Canna stuff is better. Do you rate the Canna professional+ at all?

 

[Kingrow1]

And with 2 weeks left he just wants to solve the problem not experiment, think you need to look into it a bit more. I'm off to bed now good luck. Either way flush and reapply nutes and cal/mag at right pH. Peace

 

[samchesser]

Kingrow sounds about right, thats why I don't use soil. I grow in hydroton, flushes and ph adjusts as fast as you can add water.
Good point on the soil vs water ph, i've always wondered by my 8.4 water doesn't kill my houseplants but is toxic in my hydro.
Question? won't high or low water eventually change the overall ph of the soil? I know in rockwool, if you feed plants 8+ water, they get locked out within a few weeks and the RW has a PH of around 6, does the soil have some ph adjusting properties?

Regardless of the ph, you need to flush in my opinion.

GH makes a PH up or down product, its just a few drops a gallon to go up or down a full point. You can use drops of lemon juice to go down in a pinch too, its acid.

the pool meters usually test at different ranges as I have bought strips there long ago that only went from 7-10.....make sure you have a range of 4-8 on whatever you buy. Putting water around the correct range should keep the soil in the general range throughout the life of your grow but you an see what kingrow says about that.

 

[samchesser]

I second kingrow...no experimenting, flush and reapply nutes at correct ph.....we're just trying to keep your flowers green for the last two weeks.

For the future, coco is great and is easier to grow in than soil. I've seen some people go 100% perlite with great results too. Better to use a neutral medium with consistent water holding properties/easy flush. Makes things easier IMO, cleaner too.

 

[max316420]

It won't change the ph if you add dolomite lime to it

 

[ralf]

And with 2 weeks left he just wants to solve the problem not experiment, think you need to look into it a bit more. I'm off to bed now good luck. Either way flush and reapply nutes and cal/mag at right pH. Peace

Thanks for all your advice Kingrow, i am truly gratefully, i wish you a good nights sleep, Good night and God bless.

 

[ralf]

I second kingrow...no experimenting, flush and reapply nutes at correct ph.....we're just trying to keep your flowers green for the last two weeks.

Fo

r the future, coco is great and is easier to grow in than soil. I've seen some people go 100% perlite with great results too. Better to use a neutral medium with consistent water holding properties/easy flush. Makes things easier IMO, cleaner too.

I made a mistake earlier when i said i was using Canna professional+, i have just nipped outside to check it, and it is in fact Coco Professional+ growing medium that i am using.

I will flush the plants first thing tomorrow and take it from there with weaker nutes, i will post back with the results. Thanks for all your advice, i am truly grateful.

Thanks also to everyone else who have been good enough to to take the time to post all your individual idea's on this problem, thanks to all of you guys, this thread has been an education to me, thanks to all of you. Good night and God bless to everyone.

 

[Kingrow1]

Lets hope things get better for you. Peace

 

[ralf]

Hi everyone, i have flushed the plants twice now and restarted feeding them on 1/2 strength feed, but it does not seem to have made any difference.

The leaf problem started from the bottom of the plant and worked upwards, right up to the tip of the plants. Also i have only just noticed that the leaf problem started on the left hand side of the grow tent, affecting the two plants on the leftfirst, then speading to the next two plant's in the middle and now its just starting to show on the two remaining plants on the right hand side.

I have have just found a supplier of cal/mag and i am hoping to get it to day. Likewise i have no luck finding a garden shop that sells digital ph meter, it looks as though i must ge one from the Internet.

I'll post back with the results of the ph, as soon as i get a meter.

 

[max316420]

Hi everyone, i have flushed the plants twice now and restarted feeding them on 1/2 strength feed, but it does not seem to have made any difference.

The leaf problem started from the bottom of the plant and worked upwards, right up to the tip of the plants. Also i have only just noticed that the leaf problem started on the left hand side of the grow tent, affecting the two plants on the leftfirst, then speading to the next two plant's in the middle and now its just starting to show on the two remaining plants on the right hand side.

I have have just found a supplier of cal/mag and i am hoping to get it to day. Likewise i have no luck finding a garden shop that sells digital ph meter, it looks as though i must ge one from the Internet.

I'll post back with the results of the ph, as soon as i get a meter.

Sounds like your lacking N, you could just be underfeeding them. Yellowing isn't usually a sign of over feeding your ladies, so when flushing them you washed out any available food that was in your soil..

 

[max316420]

What food are you using?

 

[Kingrow1]

So you haven't tried cal/mag yet either?

 

[max316420]

Hey KING, I'm about to start a thread about keeping N up during flowering... I'm gonna do 2 strains and at flowering I'm gonna start one set with flowering foods right at 12/12 and keep vegg food going instead of flowering food in flowering.. Hopefully it will shed some light for people getting all this yellowing at the first stages of flowering. Does anyone else think its weird that tons of people run into yellowing at usually around the exact same time during flowering and all these food companies tell you to start bloomers right at light change???

 

[max316420]

Most common statement i have seen on here is.... "my plant is yellowing at 2nd-3rd week of flowering and I don't know why?" could it be that, that's when the plant actually starts forming buds and new leaves and eating the shit outta some N??

 

[Kingrow1]

Good point, i see visual references to be about the best way to identify problems and solve them. The sticky's and pics on the internet are all outdated as hell, the more new ones we can have the better, i been having cal/mag probs for ages, no plant solvers or pics really helped.

Cant wait to see the thread, need some different situations to identify problems as well. These variables once solved will lead to good plants. Unfortunatly i have just gone totally organic and switched to a more coco and peat based limed soil straight out of the bag and using evian to fix my soft water and slight cal/mag problems. Things are growing a lot better for me. Organics seems more forgiving on the nutes and pH and the way to go.

Am looking at some fish ferts soon similar to those ones you posted a while ago. This guy definatly cal/mag or nutes. What Npk is your flowering and veg nutes for this thread?