Understanding PPM

iNFID3L

Well-Known Member
please help ? i know i need to start checking the ppm , but how is it done, what readings are good ? and wtf do i actually look for ?

i need some help before i purchase a ppm meter/reader.
 

MidnightJoker

Well-Known Member
I bought a PPM reader, I can't find it right now, but I bought it from eBay. I use FoxFarm nutes and they post the EC and PPM's on their feeding schedule. To be honest with you, I have used it twice and then never again. I just go by the FF nutes schedule and adjust my PH for every feeding. I haven't found a PPM reader to be useful at all, but I know that some people on RIU swear by them. IMO, you can get by with out using one.
 

iNFID3L

Well-Known Member
I bought a PPM reader, I can't find it right now, but I bought it from eBay. I use FoxFarm nutes and they post the EC and PPM's on their feeding schedule. To be honest with you, I have used it twice and then never again. I just go by the FF nutes schedule and adjust my PH for every feeding. I haven't found a PPM reader to be useful at all, but I know that some people on RIU swear by them. IMO, you can get by with out using one.
yeh ive been looking into it, i might not bother......why go to all that trouble of setting the ph and nute mix in the 1st place with meters , if your going to check what comes out the bottom as well, it seems to me that it only makes for more confusion.
 

NAPPYCHAN

Member
Im havin the same troubles!!! Cant find no good info nowhere really! I jus wanna get 1tho jus to make sure my shit is right!
 

Gary Busey

New Member
I bought a cheap ppm meter from Ebay from some Chinese seller. It was like $8 shipped.

I rarely use it.

PH is way more important.
 

Gary Busey

New Member
I'm in hydro, I check it from time to time, it'll be more important as the plants get older, they are just 20 days old right now, they don't eat much yet.

I guess it is important so you know how much your plants are eating, or not eating.

18 years in soil, and I never once tested PH or PPM. I got all this stuff when I started hydro a month ago.
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
im starting to think maybe a PPM meter is more important in hyrdo.
Yes this is correct, in hydro you can watch increases/decreases in ppm's/EC's to judge the strength of res changes and top ups,

Meters come in handy using soiless/coco as you can measure like hydro.


J
 

tip top toker

Well-Known Member
I bought one under advice and have used it maybe twice in the few years i've been growing, the majority of that in hydro. Only issues i've encountered have been because i let the res empty out, not because the mix was hot. In fact one of the time i did use it the girls were sitting in an EC of around 4.0, way too much, but they didn't show any signs of discomfort.
 

Niko Bellick

Well-Known Member
I am about to start my tenth successful grow or so and the only thing I would say I could not live without would be my Ph meter. Everything else I just wait for the plants to tell me.
 

Xcon

Active Member
I'd say it depends on your situation. I'll never try a different nute line again without testing the ec of my doses first. Might be the only time I do it, but AFIC it's necessary for any level of inexperience. I'm sure that people who are familiar with all the nutes and doses that they've been using for years have no need for one, but guys who are still new and like to try different shit can certainly benefit from using one. (of course, everybody with 1 or 2 grows under their belt is a pro around here however, I've got 18 months of growing so I consider myself new to the hobby)

It's like the PH debate, or the flushing your soil debate... ph and flushing might be useless for the pros, but they can be pretty darn important for people who actually make mistakes. Same thing with ec meters.
 

tip top toker

Well-Known Member
I've used a handful of different nutes and never checked the EC, the way i figure is that the nute company would like you to be a returning customer so they're hardly going to print instructions that're gonna nuke everything :) there are certainly a couple of companies who do, but they seem to be few and far between.
 

Xcon

Active Member
Testing Dosages Given by The Industry
To demonstrate how important the EC level is we have tested 5 popular types of fertilizer. Only the fertilizer for flowering was selected because during this phase growers fertilize the most (after the motto: more fertilizer = more yield). Yet during this part of the life cycle plants become increasingly sensitive to excess mineral salts.

Before we look at the results it is important to understand one thing: generally one should never fertilize more than 0.8 EC on soil. You can fertilize up to 1.0 EC if you have to quickly reverse deficiencies in adult outdoor plants. For indoor we recommend 0.65-0.7 EC for all Mandala strains that need to be fertilized.

The first important step is to find out what the EC of your tapwater is. In this example we are using a 50-50 mix of reverse osmosis water and normal tapwater to get 0.43 EC. Obviously, if you have a value over 0.8 in your tapwater you have to lower the EC level through filtration. For small gardens it's sufficient to use a Britt Filter if you do not have the money to buy a household reverse osmosis filter (approx. 100$/Euro). The Britt filter can reduce the EC level by 0.15-0.20. Another alternative would be to buy 5L/1 gallon bottles of non-carbonated mineral water when you fertilize. Good mineral water has approx. 0.25 EC.

Here are the test results on our water with EC 0,43 for 5 popular products (measured on Hanna Dist 3 meter).

General Hydroponics
One Part Bloom (N-P-K: 2-4-7)


Recommended min. dosage (Hydro): 8ml/1L or 1.5 EC
Recommended dosage on soil: "less" (?!)
Recommended frequency on soil: every second watering
2ml/1L = 1.30 EC
4ml/1L = 2.00 EC
0,5ml/1L= 0.70 EC

The amazing thing about these instructions is the inaccuracy of the amount to fertilize on soil. What does "less" mean? If we were to use the common rule and mix 50% of the recommended dosage we still get an EC of 2.0! That would lead to immediate symptoms of overfertilization. Even at 25% of the dosage we are still in the danger zone. With 0,5ml/L or 6% of the recommended dosage we finally have a safe solution! This example shows how important it is to have an EC meter at hand.

Canna
Terra Flores (N-P-K: 10-9-19)


Recommended dosage: 5ml/1L
Recommended frequency: 1-3 x weekly
5ml/1L = 1.83 EC
2ml/1L = 1.05 EC
1ml/1L = 0.76 EC

Out of interest we tested the dosage of 5ml/L. If you were to give your plants this dosage they would not be very happy about it. Surprisingly, the manufacturer recommends this high salt level for soil cultivation – a level that is not even used in most hydroponic cultivation! The ratio of nitrogen and potassium is quite dangerous in this fertilizer. Both minerals are present in high amounts but flowering cannabis plants cannot store excess N and K as easily as phosphorous and magnesium. At 20% of the recommended dosage we can water with a safe nutrient solution.

Ionic
Bloom (N-P-K: unknown)


Recommended min. dosage (Hydro): 7ml/1L
Recommended dosage for soil: 1,0 ml
Recommended frequency: no info
3,5ml/1L = 1.62 EC
1 ml/1L = 0.81 EC

At least the manufacturer offers an EC value for soil cultivation. But, again, if you don't have an EC meter and mix 50% of the dosage the plants are overfertilized. At 15% we found the correct dosage. The downside is that the N-P-K values are not disclosed on the label which is below standard.

AlgoFlash
Flower (N-P-K: 4-6-7)


Recommended dosage: 4ml/1L
Recommended frequency: every second watering
2ml/1L = 1.38 EC
1ml/1L = 1.00 EC
0,5ml/1L = 0.75 EC

This concentrated fertilizer is a good choice for cannabis cultivation – but it is also dangerously potent. Even half the dosage is still too strong and it has to be diluted to 12,5% before we get the ideal value of 0.75 EC. If you have a higher EC level in your tapwater you can water with only 10% and get good results.

All recommended feeding frequencies on soil for the fertilizers in our test are incredibly high. This is a general trend among manufacturers. Growers who follow the advice on the bottle or "feeding chart" automatically cause damage to their plants - even if these are not immediately visible for an inexperienced or untrained grower.
linkified

Must be me :)
 

Xcon

Active Member
thats all very well, but people are saying they have done ok without one ?
Sure they have, but that's irrelevant to you. How are YOU doing without one? If you don't need it, don't buy it. What I'm saying is that they can be useful to people who need them. I've had quite a bit of trouble, and found ec meters to be useful in my experience.
 

angelsbandit

Well-Known Member
I have an in tank constant PPM meter, and it is nice to be able to just look down and know how much of your nutes the plants use.

If the PPM is dropping quickly I add more nutes when I top off the reservoir, it the PPM stays close to the original readings, or go up I just add water.
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
I swear by a BLUELAB EC TRUNCHEON which i use to test my Res to see how plants are feeding via increases/decreases in Res EC this way when i topup or change the Res i can adjust and allow for said increases/decreases.

IMO this way you can rest assured you're not over or under feeding .


In soil its a little different as you don't generally feed everytime, so as far as EC's go it would only help you to keep a record for that strain for next time.




J
 
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