Hydro with Advanced Nutes Shade Leaves Drying Up & Curling Down a Little

[PeaceFarmer]

If your ph is only changing .5 then you probably need a bigger Rez. As she eats her nutes it is going to naturally rise up, and as she drinks water it is going to fall. This is because the salts in the nutes are acidic and cause the ph to fall, thus as she eats your ph will start to come back up. Also, if you are overfeeding her, as she drinks water and leaves nutes circulating, your ph will fall even more. Your ph WILL change every day, and as intense growth begins in the early flowering stage, it can change from morning to night. Until you determine how much she EATS AND DRINKS, and you balance the two out so that she consumes water and nutes at an equal rate, your ph will always be unstable. But for real buddy, this shouldnt be that difficult... pH is a grade school concept, and a quick google search will land you enough information to author a doctoral thesis on horticulture. EVERYTHING you could ever want to know can be found online or at the public library, and I would suggest reading everything until you have a thorough knowledge of cultivation before you start throwing your money away. Aero/hydro is not an easy technique, and is EXTREMELY unforgiving (especially aero). At least if you were to grow in soil, you can fuck up, fix it, fuck up, and fix it again. Fuck up in aero and your final yield will suffer whether you are lucky enough to fix it or not.

 

[GreenIce]

Forgive me for not reading all the posts in this thread but I am going to point out that what I see is a serious heat and maybe humidity problem primarily. This is what is causing your curled/wilted leaves. Better to be too cool then too hot. I would get more fans and let that room breathe or better yet get a small mobile a/c and let that air blow. I would take care of this issue priority then deal with your lack of light, stretching, nutes, potential pests or fungus. A unseen and harmless fungus can go unnoticed and never effect your plants production when the plant is healthy. When the conditions/environment go bad they will stress out your plant and these funguses will take advantage and thrive on your plant. Once the conditions are corrected the fungus will go dormant and after clipping a few leaves will be back to a unnoticed and the harmless state. I am guessing it gets more then 80 degrees in there chill that place out and watch your humidity....good luck!

 

[jamesking]

If your ph is only changing .5 then you probably need a bigger Rez. As she eats her nutes it is going to naturally rise up, and as she drinks water it is going to fall. This is because the salts in the nutes are acidic and cause the ph to fall, thus as she eats your ph will start to come back up. Also, if you are overfeeding her, as she drinks water and leaves nutes circulating, your ph will fall even more. Your ph WILL change every day, and as intense growth begins in the early flowering stage, it can change from morning to night. Until you determine how much she EATS AND DRINKS, and you balance the two out so that she consumes water and nutes at an equal rate, your ph will always be unstable. But for real buddy, this shouldnt be that difficult... pH is a grade school concept, and a quick google search will land you enough information to author a doctoral thesis on horticulture. EVERYTHING you could ever want to know can be found online or at the public library, and I would suggest reading everything until you have a thorough knowledge of cultivation before you start throwing your money away. Aero/hydro is not an easy technique, and is EXTREMELY unforgiving (especially aero). At least if you were to grow in soil, you can fuck up, fix it, fuck up, and fix it again. Fuck up in aero and your final yield will suffer whether you are lucky enough to fix it or not.

Let me see if I got this right because i'm having some problems with my nutrients too. And being able to read what they girls are drinking would help me gauge the ratios to mix the feed.

So if the PH of the feed starts at 5.8 and goes down to 5.6, then that means the girls are taking in more water.
If the PH starts at 5.8 and goes up to 6.0, then that means the girls are taking in more nutrients.

Am I understanding this right?

Would this be a precursor to nutrient burn then? For example, the PH goes down after every feed, then that means they're about to get burned?

 

[GreenIce]

lil miss bride of frakenstine lol well i trimmed most the shade leaves off now she looks more naked lmao but its cool bud spots get more light anybody know any reason y the ph changes sooo fast. pic soon srry been working n smoking alot keep forgeting.

Salt in the h20 can do this rapid ph change....also if you are using water lacking buffers like say distilled water or water that drains from your dehumidifier or a/c that will cause drastic ups and downs when adding nutes or ph up/down. Rain water can have the same effect. If your water is tap and has many additives I would question that also. Cant imagine your water is well water and you have a softener set up because I do not think your plants would have made it this far but if it is the case stop using the softened water immediately it contains way too much salt. I threw away my ph pen a long time ago and only use the color drops that are instant results and always accurate. Sometimes your ph is perfect and those stupid pens will show a false number off the charts and cause for unneeded ph adjustments. I know I just eliminated many sources for water but when you go hydro a decent water source is always going to be key. Try a local lake, stream, river etc..... and test for a couple weeks if it works figure out a long term plan on how to keep it simple. Good luck!

 

[PeaceFarmer]

Let me see if I got this right because i'm having some problems with my nutrients too. And being able to read what they girls are drinking would help me gauge the ratios to mix the feed.

So if the PH of the feed starts at 5.8 and goes down to 5.6, then that means the girls are taking in more water.
If the PH starts at 5.8 and goes up to 6.0, then that means the girls are taking in more nutrients.

Am I understanding this right?

Would this be a precursor to nutrient burn then? For example, the PH goes down after every feed, then that means they're about to get burned?

Ok, if it is only moving .2, consider this a normal fluctuation. Also, you must use ppm in conjunction with ph, not one or the other. Everyday (or every other if you have a large rez) you need to top off the water to replace what your girls drank. However, all of the missing water isn't just water that they drank, but also evaporation, and other sources such as leaks..the list goes on and on. you you change your Rez and adjust it to 1400ppm and a ph of 5.8...2 days later you find you need to top the water off:
Ex #1
Before topping off: ppm 1550, ph 5.2
After topping off (takes 3 gallons): ppm 1400, ph 5.8
What's happening?: Your ppm is too high, the girls are drinking more than eating.

Ex#2
Before topping off: ppm 1200, ph 5.8
After topping off (takes 1 gallon): ppm 950, ph 6.8
What's happening?: your girls are eating more than drinking, consider upping your nutes a little.

Ex#3
Before topping off: ppm 1400, ph 5.8
After topping off (takes 2 gallons): ppm 1200, ph 6.0
What's happening: your girls are eating and drinking at a pretty steady rate; this is the sweet spot everyone shoots for.

I could list probably hundreds of examples, and your case isn't going to be like those above, but hopefully you see the inverse relationship that nutes/h2o have on ppm/ph. I colonize my rez with good bacteria, and they buffer the hell out of my water. I usually only have to adjust ph after I top off my Rez with fresh h2o (it's over 7 coming out of the tap, so I have to bring it down.) hope this info helps...let me know if you need further clarification.

 

[PeaceFarmer]

I threw away my ph pen a long time ago and only use the color drops that are instant results and always accurate. Sometimes your ph is perfect and those stupid pens will show a false number off the charts and cause for unneeded ph adjustments.

A good ph meter wont cause this problem...having worked in a lab for many, many years (and subsequently having to test the ph of thousands of different reagents) I can give you a few pointers:
1. You have to calibrate your ph meter at least every two weeks if you can (never go more than a month). You can purchase the calibration solution for a few dollars online. To calibrate (I use a two point calibration method for accuracy), you dip the pen in the solution and while holding it there, you use a tiny screwdriver (screw is usually on top of meter) unti it reads what the solution is. You can buy a 7.1 ph calibrator that you can also use for storing your meter, or you can buy a low and high (usually 1.0 and 10.0)

2. Never store your ph meter with the tip dry..this is the quickest way to destroy a nice meter. You MUST store them wet in a neutral solution (anywhere in the 7's which most tap h2o is). They usually come with a cap that is rubber, you just dip the meter in the h2o to rinse it off, and then put the cap on without drying it. In the lab we had cups with a lid that had a hole in it and we would just put the meter inside (the solution was purchased and was at ph 7.1, and was changed weekly).

If properly maintained they only need to be replaced about every 10 years.

 

[GreenIce]

A good ph meter wont cause this problem...having worked in a lab for many, many years (and subsequently having to test the ph of thousands of different reagents) I can give you a few pointers:
1. You have to calibrate your ph meter at least every two weeks if you can (never go more than a month). You can purchase the calibration solution for a few dollars online. To calibrate (I use a two point calibration method for accuracy), you dip the pen in the solution and while holding it there, you use a tiny screwdriver (screw is usually on top of meter) unti it reads what the solution is. You can buy a 7.1 ph calibrator that you can also use for storing your meter, or you can buy a low and high (usually 1.0 and 10.0)

2. Never store your ph meter with the tip dry..this is the quickest way to destroy a nice meter. You MUST store them wet in a neutral solution (anywhere in the 7's which most tap h2o is). They usually come with a cap that is rubber, you just dip the meter in the h2o to rinse it off, and then put the cap on without drying it. In the lab we had cups with a lid that had a hole in it and we would just put the meter inside (the solution was purchased and was at ph 7.1, and was changed weekly).

If properly maintained they only need to be replaced about every 10 years.

PeaceFarmer....been there done that. Always calibrate before every use and always store in manufactures storage solution and never never let the globe thing get dry. Tried a Milwaukee and then tried a Hanna. I know they are not the $300 models but either way should stay useful for at least 1 year I would think. Problem is this and I did not articulate this properly above....when you are testing water that has no buffers those pens are useless. You will submerge and watch the thing go from 4.7 to 7.9 and if you let it sit for about 10 minutes it will finally get somewhere close to what the true ph is while the color drops take about 20 seconds on that same unbuffered bucket of water. I test with a/c water and this happens every time. I test with lake water (plenty of buffers) and seems to work well. My point is this if you are new to this and are relying on a ph pen that is testing water with no buffers in it then you are going to have some serious headaches trying to figure out what is wrong. Never tried the fancy big dollar models so that may be a different story but these cheap pens suck in my opinion.

 

[PeaceFarmer]

PeaceFarmer....been there done that. Always calibrate before every use and always store in manufactures storage solution and never never let the globe thing get dry. Tried a Milwaukee and then tried a Hanna. I know they are not the $300 models but either way should stay useful for at least 1 year I would think. Problem is this and I did not articulate this properly above....when you are testing water that has no buffers those pens are useless. You will submerge and watch the thing go from 4.7 to 7.9 and if you let it sit for about 10 minutes it will finally get somewhere close to what the true ph is while the color drops take about 20 seconds on that same unbuffered bucket of water. I test with a/c water and this happens every time. I test with lake water (plenty of buffers) and seems to work well. My point is this if you are new to this and are relying on a ph pen that is testing water with no buffers in it then you are going to have some serious headaches trying to figure out what is wrong. Never tried the fancy big dollar models so that may be a different story but these cheap pens suck in my opinion.

I can understand your point quite well. I also find that the meter is useless if you don't let your solution sit for a while before testing. I never completely change out my Rez; I always leave 1/2 of the old solution in there. By doing this my bacteria stays happy (but controlled), and therefor buffers my water effectively (I usually only adjust it once after a change). However, I have had my Hannah for a while now...something else you may want to consider is turning your bubblers and pump OFF while you measure your levels....those little bubbles are horrible on meters and can cause there life expectancy to drop remarkably.

 

[legallyflying]

PeaceFarmer....been there done that. Always calibrate before every use and always store in manufactures storage solution and never never let the globe thing get dry. Tried a Milwaukee and then tried a Hanna. I know they are not the $300 models but either way should stay useful for at least 1 year I would think. Problem is this and I did not articulate this properly above....when you are testing water that has no buffers those pens are useless. You will submerge and watch the thing go from 4.7 to 7.9 and if you let it sit for about 10 minutes it will finally get somewhere close to what the true ph is while the color drops take about 20 seconds on that same unbuffered bucket of water. I test with a/c water and this happens every time. I test with lake water (plenty of buffers) and seems to work well. My point is this if you are new to this and are relying on a ph pen that is testing water with no buffers in it then you are going to have some serious headaches trying to figure out what is wrong. Never tried the fancy big dollar models so that may be a different story but these cheap pens suck in my opinion.

Umm. I'm calling bad advice on this one. Mostly because it's not correct and also because earlier you told someone to find water from a lake or stream.."to simplify things" WTF? nothing easier than jumping in the car and driving to the nearest fresh water source to collect 50 gallons of "clean" water.

First off, those paper strips and drops are shit. They give you an idea of the ph but not an actual reading. Second..who the hell is measuring the PH of water with no buffers in it? Who gives a ratts ass what the ph of your tapp is? You never ph until you mix in all your nutrients anyways.

My ph meter has been rock solid for well over a year now and I hardly ever calibrate it because when I dip it in the calibration solution it always says 7.0.
I have the ecoplus ph1.

Anywho, the real info in this thread is covered above with the talk about ph swings, transpiration rates and ppm.

Don't obsess over the ph. Let it swing around, just keep it between the recomended numbers. For the record, I have never seen my ph go down. Always up. But then again, my plants never burn

 

[hellraizer30]

Umm. I'm calling bad advice on this one. Mostly because it's not correct and also because earlier you told someone to find water from a lake or stream.."to simplify things" WTF? nothing easier than jumping in the car and driving to the nearest fresh water source to collect 50 gallons of "clean" water.

First off, those paper strips and drops are shit. They give you an idea of the ph but not an actual reading. Second..who the hell is measuring the PH of water with no buffers in it? Who gives a ratts ass what the ph of your tapp is? You never ph until you mix in all your nutrients anyways.

My ph meter has been rock solid for well over a year now and I hardly ever calibrate it because when I dip it in the calibration solution it always says 7.0.
I have the ecoplus ph1.

Anywho, the real info in this thread is covered above with the talk about ph swings, transpiration rates and ppm.

Don't obsess over the ph. Let it swing around, just keep it between the recomended numbers. For the record, I have never seen my ph go down. Always up. But then again, my plants never burn

Thats some funny shit trucking water to the grow site thats not cool rofl

 

[freemen5663]

lol i ended up jus cloneing bride of frankenstine to restart --------------- clone worked ;P woot woot

 

[freemen5663]

My lil cone is doin fukn awesome Ima veg for a month an flower for 2 but ima jus leave the plant in the box this time

 

[freemen5663]

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/439589-cripy-bag-seed-pc-grow.html#post5846513