i have a 12 x12 flowering room with 2 1000hps with parobolic hoods a 465cfm fan for intake 720cfm fan for exhaust both intake /exhaust fans come on every 15 min i also have 2 oscillating fans one fan is off during nite and intake/exhaust is off im planning on adding 2 more 1000hps but my temps rite now is getting up to 82degress 55humidity with lights on and down to 71degress 35humidity at nite when my fans come on it doesnt drop temp it jus drops humidity down to 40 i have a humidifier its set at 50% any info is appreciated on how to get temps down and keep 50% humidity. also would like to use co2 later on. any ideas guys NEED HELP THANKS ANY INFO IS APPRECIATED. outside temps are 40 degress
FlowGrow
Originally Posted by
Flo Grow 
Your temps are actually fine at 82F.
If you plan on running CO2, then you'll need temps up to 90F for it to be effective and worthwhile.
When you add those 2 more 1K lights, you'll most def need larger intake and exhaust fans.
Even a big enough passive intake would help and cut electric costs.
Every bend in your ducting is causing a minimum 10% (for 30 degree bend) DECREASE in efficiency for your fans exhaust (pulling).
If your pushing air, it's worse.
Clean, cool air from outside, thru your lights and vented outside your grow room.
Active/passive intake ON THE FLOOR and OPPOSITE your exhaust fan, which should be mounted as high as possible (heat rises).
So vent the lights seperate from the grow room.
Check the Ventilation Calculator link in my sig.
May surprise some ppl.
WeeGogs
his temps might be fine at 82 but to run 4000 watts of lighting thats a big hole for a passive air intake when his exhaust is pushing out 8 cubic metres of air a minute minimum he is better using two fans and venting air in the same way as i did from a sealed hidden window box. (the fans are only 200 watts) 4000 watts from lighting is a huge amount of heat.
explain the chart apart from it being old fashioned and in the old sizes we use square metres hour not square feet minute.
and who needs a chart best to vent in fresh air with an inlet, and exhaust it somewhere to expel in to the atmosphere, his room is 32 metres square, x 60 minutes = 1920 square metres an hour he has to empty his room one third every minute x 60 minutes 1 third of 1920 = 640 cmh that is for fresh air too not just heat presuming the room is full of plants.
fresh air is only 0.039% co2 that is a lot of air to pull co2 from that the plants need, any real problem heat that needs to be expelled during long hot summer days needs a more powerful fan 1015 cmh with a speed control switch and temp computer who needs a chart. sometimes practice makes perfect, passive intakes cannot run at slight negative pressure, cover your room in totally in plastic mylar or megalite, seal it all with tape, do the floor and seal the door with stick on draught weather seal. run the inlet slightly slower than out let and the heavy smell can only go out the exhaust and not drift or leak from your room. you will need a sprung non return damper on the inlet duct that will expel the fumes where someone would smell the fumes if they were drifting out when the fans are off it will spring shut when the fan is not pushing or pulling air through it in to the grow room and shut off that duct.
once you have it running properly you can make a home made co2 kit that you leave on all the time, a sort of yeast home brew in a bottle, at night when your lights are off and there is no heat the plants respire( breathe ) air in the dark ( the opposite of photosynthesis) your fans will be off and your room will build up a nice high co2 content when your home brew is bubbling co2 out, just in time for the lights to switch on and give your plants a little nitrous oxide for breakfast in the morning before the heat builds up and the fans starts to empty the room again, although it will give you a constant slightly higher co2 reading anyway. passive air intakes need to be on constantly with your lights. fan intakes and exhausts can work from a temperature controller.
make home made co2 kit, make it from an
an empty 5 litre bottle.
add 2.5 litres of luke warm water,
half a kilo of sugar
1.5 level teaspoons of dried yeast granules baking stuff will do.
put the lid on and give a good old shake
remove the lid and sit among your plants
this will expell co2 for 7 days although may take 1 day for the fermenting process to start expelling the co2
so get 2 bottles and the day before you have to change the old one on the 6th day get the second one ready
and then replace it on the seventh day.
i know that when fermenting it is better to be dark and warm so paint the entire bottle two coats of a decent black paint to keep out
as much light as possible and put a lid on with small hole in middle.
this will cost you about 1 -2 dollars a week to run.
buy the yeast from ebay in a box and 1 kg of sugar every 2 weeks.
if you were fermenting for longer than 1 week to make alcohol you would need to use brewing yeast which is expensive as bakers yeast breaks down and dies too soon. this produces ethylene alcohol, empty the contents down your toilet flush and clean the old bottle. do not attempt to extract this ethylene it would probably blind you if you drank it.
always remember that all the members on this forum live in different areas of the world with different temperatures some extreme. if we all use an indoor temp computer in our sealed growrooms they will be running roughly the same temps no matter where we are or what extreme weather is outside.
you can get cheap ones that heat and cool lizard terrariums etc, remember that when you use the word hydroponic to buy something on the internet the original price will be doubled or trebled for the same item, wink.
AND YOUR A BRIGHT SPARK FLO GROW.
. Yeah currently I got 7 ladies in my flower room and 1 mother in the veg room and 2 in my cloner.
Join DateMay 2010Posts217
