applepoop1984
Well-Known Member
there were 2 types of SACCHARIDES listed that equated to around 5 grams. CARBS HAVE SUGAR IN THEM. TO SAY A CARB IS A SUGAR IS ERRONEOUS. All starches are carbohydrates, but not all carbohydrates are starch.
Molasses. A double edged sword?
- Thread starter 80mg
- Start date
applepoop1984
Well-Known Member
carbs come in 3 forms, sugar starch cellulose, the 2 sugars were listed as saccharides, clearly the other 2 are starch our cellulose, notice it says other carbs nto other sugars. read my friend before posting, thsi is messageboard clutter for me to educate u
80mg
New Member
I am sorry for the bump. I been banned for ten days for complete unfounded and unfair reasons and just wanted to give my two cents on this. (please dont ask me about my ban in posts. I am being watched super hard now so I really can't comment =/)
The yellowing I was seeing was NOT from the natural nitrogen deepletion from the final flowering stage. I've encountered that many times and know what it is. Other people have seem to have that same problem. I'm still getting the burn a lil but but I spread my feeding out as long as possible to reduce it.
I am still using mollases (unsulphered "gramdmas") in a mixture of 1tbsp per gallon with a spoon full of miracle grow bloom booster with FANTASTIC results now.
My plant was a runt, the only reason why I put her into flower was because all my other plants were male. She did surprise me though. She went from 6inches big to now about 19 inches and is basically one gigantic cola with a rough guestimate of an oz. the molasses has added a terrific odoe of sweetness and has indeed made the buds thicker (about 20-30% thicker). I am using a soil grow. I was just wondering tough, why can't it be used in hydro grow?
Thanks for all the input and sorry I couldn't responf sooner.
-80
p.s.
I did go to other forums while I was banned and can honestley say that when it comes to growing, this is the premier place.
The yellowing I was seeing was NOT from the natural nitrogen deepletion from the final flowering stage. I've encountered that many times and know what it is. Other people have seem to have that same problem. I'm still getting the burn a lil but but I spread my feeding out as long as possible to reduce it.
I am still using mollases (unsulphered "gramdmas") in a mixture of 1tbsp per gallon with a spoon full of miracle grow bloom booster with FANTASTIC results now.
My plant was a runt, the only reason why I put her into flower was because all my other plants were male. She did surprise me though. She went from 6inches big to now about 19 inches and is basically one gigantic cola with a rough guestimate of an oz. the molasses has added a terrific odoe of sweetness and has indeed made the buds thicker (about 20-30% thicker). I am using a soil grow. I was just wondering tough, why can't it be used in hydro grow?
Thanks for all the input and sorry I couldn't responf sooner.
-80
p.s.
I did go to other forums while I was banned and can honestley say that when it comes to growing, this is the premier place.
Wolverine97
Well-Known Member
I don't know about the Schultz statement, but many liquid carb products use molasses as a base. Much of the new G.O. lineup from Gen Hydro is derived from molasses, and fermented beet sugar.
Edit: I'm not saying molasses contains nitrogen, it does not, but it has value as a plant food source and as a carrier in an organic gardening lineup.
Precisely. The only time I use molasses (1tbsp per gallon) is when I'm mixing my soil. I grow "organic", which is to say I construct soil and never fertilize, rather than use a soil-less substrate through which I pour a nutrient solution on a regular basis. Which is what much container-grown pot actually is. A form of hydroponics.
I don't play all that bat-shit, rat-shit, chicken-shit, brewed up tea stuff though. I'm not trying to be officially "certified organic in all ways". I just employ dry, organic ferts blended into the soil at the start, and allowed to age for a month or so. This permits the natural microrganisms in the soil to activate, reproduce, and create a naturally-balancing and fertile media that can feed my plants all by itself for the entire grow.
To that end, after I mix the soil (2 to 3 cu/ft), I moisten it with one gallon of molasses water to feed the microorganisms. Everything the plants need will come from the microorganisms.
The "snake oil industry" is going to have you paying a jillion dollars to do useless things that revolve around sugars now, though, preying on people's ignorance.
333maxwell
Active Member
New to the thread, haven;t read it all.. sorry.. I hate guys like me who just come and chime in without reading..
I just wanted to say.. the only times I had issues with molasses was when I first started using it, and I didn't think anything about it's effect on the PH of water I already had ready to go.. and after the second watering the leaf edges were black burn.. I mean just BANG.. there is was..
Once I quit 'assuming' and realized the M was dropping my PH so dramatically I never had another issue with it again.. I've (just experimenting and fooling around) used close to a tablespoon into a just a few cups and watered and had no issues.. long as I remembered to adjust my ph..
But that is just me.. everyone else's mileage will vary.. I ithink I was only trying to encourage everyone to remember the PH issue if they use Molasses .. or anything really..
Sorry, you probably all knew that.. my bad..
I just wanted to say.. the only times I had issues with molasses was when I first started using it, and I didn't think anything about it's effect on the PH of water I already had ready to go.. and after the second watering the leaf edges were black burn.. I mean just BANG.. there is was..
Once I quit 'assuming' and realized the M was dropping my PH so dramatically I never had another issue with it again.. I've (just experimenting and fooling around) used close to a tablespoon into a just a few cups and watered and had no issues.. long as I remembered to adjust my ph..
But that is just me.. everyone else's mileage will vary.. I ithink I was only trying to encourage everyone to remember the PH issue if they use Molasses .. or anything really..
Sorry, you probably all knew that.. my bad..
333maxwell
Active Member
Oh.. all that said.. you know, that I overdose my plants on Molasses now and then..
Well..
I am not convinced it does a darn thing for them one way or the other..
Sometimes I think 'ohhhh look at that'..
Others it's like 'meh...
Well..
I am not convinced it does a darn thing for them one way or the other..
Sometimes I think 'ohhhh look at that'..
Others it's like 'meh...
Actually, the NPK value of molasses is generally known to be 1-0-5. It's not listed, because molasses is marketed as a food product for humans and livestock rather than a fertilizer.
If you aren't employing some manner of organic growing method, which is to say you're seeking to create fertility within an actual soil through natural processes, rather than simply using the soil to anchor a plant that you feed with liquid chemical nutrients, than you're wasting all your money on it, for it really isn't doing anything useful enough for you to justify the expense and hassle.
You aren't feeding anything, in the absence of microbes.
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
Search my links in this thread, molasses has no nitrogen.
The molasses produced as a waste product from the refinement of sugar beets has only trace nitrogen. The molasses produced as a waste product from distilling processes contains 0.7 nitrogen, the molasses created from.....
The molasses you purchase from the store is generally a blended product produced from the processing wastes of various food manufacture, and is generally acknowledged to have an NPK of 1-0-5.
On the other hand, you may believe whatever you like, as I have less than zero interest in convincing you of anything, or having a debate. I'm far too old to waste time on such trivial things lol!
Carne Seca
Well-Known Member
We're in the same boat brother. Too old and too damn tired.
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
There is no room for debate here:
- Calcium ----- .205%
- Iron -------- .0047%
Magnesium --- .242%
- Phosphorus -- .031%
- Potassium --- 1.464%
- Sodium ------ .037%
- Zinc -------- .0003%
- Copper ------ .0005%
- Manganese --- .0015%
- Selenium ---- .0178%
Which molasses is that? Sugar beet, cane, distillery...barbados, dark, or blackstrap?
Carne Seca
Well-Known Member
Magnesium 43.0 mg
Phosphorus 8.0 mg
Sodium 11.0 mg
Zinc 0.2 mg
Copper 0.4 mg
Manganese 0.5 mg
Selenium 3.6 mcg
potassium = 3.65%
Calcium = 0.575%
Iron = 0.0175%
Magnesium =0.215%
taken right off the bottle.
Phosphorus 8.0 mg
Sodium 11.0 mg
Zinc 0.2 mg
Copper 0.4 mg
Manganese 0.5 mg
Selenium 3.6 mcg
potassium = 3.65%
Calcium = 0.575%
Iron = 0.0175%
Magnesium =0.215%
taken right off the bottle.
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
Very good, now convert the figures to a percentage by weight and you'll come up the same figures I did.
Carne Seca
Well-Known Member
I don't wanna and you can't make me. How's that for a mature response?
Wolverine97
Well-Known Member
Also, Earth Juice has a fairly new line out that is derived from molasses. True, it doesn't have nitrogen, but obviously it is beneficial.
80mg
New Member
Okay per what doseage?
Carne Seca
Well-Known Member
umm.. the bottle doesn't list that information. Weird.
80mg
New Member
That may mean the whole bottle lol.