Calling All Noob Growers

This thread should be a sticky?

  • Yes, it was very helpful

    Votes: 610 89.1%
  • No, this info is already covered

    Votes: 75 10.9%

  • Total voters
    685

rizou

Member
cheers bud, so shrubsfirst is a username? I've tried searching his name but nothing came up. In which section is his thread located?
 

gumball

Well-Known Member
cheers bud, so shrubsfirst is a username? I've tried searching his name but nothing came up. In which section is his thread located?
It is Shrubs First with a space, just as I typed it. if you click on advanced search, it has a space for User Name. As you type in the username the field will automatically display choices of those usernames which match what you have typed so far. just type his name in and search without any other filters and it will give you everything that user posted.

hope this helps you.
 

gumball

Well-Known Member
hey riddleme, what would be your full strength dose of Foliage pro? I thought 1 tsp per gallon was full strength. But I still am showing purple stems, and I have slowly increased to 1.5 tsp a gallon. I know you mix up nute cocktails, whereas I only use one. I am thinking of mixing fish emulsions to the next feeding with the Dyna gro though. just currious what others use as full strength on these nutes.

thank you for your time :D
 

riddleme

Well-Known Member
hey riddleme, what would be your full strength dose of Foliage pro? I thought 1 tsp per gallon was full strength. But I still am showing purple stems, and I have slowly increased to 1.5 tsp a gallon. I know you mix up nute cocktails, whereas I only use one. I am thinking of mixing fish emulsions to the next feeding with the Dyna gro though. just currious what others use as full strength on these nutes.

thank you for your time :D
normally 1 tsp, most ever 1.5 tsp basically what you are doing, but note that purple stems are not always a sign of a problem can be a sink for the plant (discussed in one of my ditties) can be a strain thing, can be a temp thing. I never worry about it :)

Red stems however are first sign of an N def
 

gumball

Well-Known Member
normally 1 tsp, most ever 1.5 tsp basically what you are doing, but note that purple stems are not always a sign of a problem can be a sink for the plant (discussed in one of my ditties) can be a strain thing, can be a temp thing. I never worry about it :)

Red stems however are first sign of an N def
I thought of the sink thing, but I thought that was red stems, and the purple stems was signs of nitrogen def. could be temps too, swings from 65 lights off to 84 lights on. thank you again
 

lonestand

Well-Known Member
so the way i understand it is, the skunk smell plants give off is to warn of danger correct?
why does it stink so much in my flower room just before the lights turn on as opposed to the rest of the day?

just a random thought...
 

riddleme

Well-Known Member
so the way i understand it is, the skunk smell plants give off is to warn of danger correct?
why does it stink so much in my flower room just before the lights turn on as opposed to the rest of the day?

just a random thought...
More of a defense than a warning but it is obvious that something is stressin em, best guess without being there would be a temp/humidity change that occurs after hours of lights out
 

lonestand

Well-Known Member
I've been told by others here that they have experienced the same stink in the morning, i wonder if its a humidity thing.

I'm currently monitoring my plants temps and Rh readings ill report them later on my grow, maybe i will be able to then see a pattern

thanks riddle

p.s. its so cold outside atm my thermo just says - n/a last temp i saw was -12 lol. in the flower room i got 78F and 29% Rh, paradise comparatively hehe.
 

rastadred22

Well-Known Member
Ok to be fair here, when Rings decided to grow he didn't go online and find a forum, he didn't get any myths or misdirection, he called me. So I didn't have to spend any time convincing him or showing him why, I simply told him what to do and he did it. He also came here and read all my threads to get an understanding of the why and he just grew and harvested his first plant ever without one single problem :) He even got his first cure down perfectly and I'm beamin a bit cause he is my nephew and I'm damn proud of him :hump:

Other than that the only difference was that when he had a question he would call instead of PM'ing me :)
haha i bet calling u instead of pming is a hell of alot easier lol!

I've been told by others here that they have experienced the same stink in the morning, i wonder if its a humidity thing.

I'm currently monitoring my plants temps and Rh readings ill report them later on my grow, maybe i will be able to then see a pattern

thanks riddle

p.s. its so cold outside atm my thermo just says - n/a last temp i saw was -12 lol. in the flower room i got 78F and 29% Rh, paradise comparatively hehe.
i was always taught that it was normal for the plant to smell its strongest an hour be4 the lights turn on or an hour after they go off so i never really worried about it...but the smell is def unpleasant to most animals and they particularly do not like it...but i never thought that maybe the smell is something wrong
 

AlteredEgo

Active Member
hey riddle, ive been reading around but i wus wondering if u know of a thread tht explains how to get usable seeds from a hermi plant. im jus not sure how to tell when the seeds are done (not really worried bout buds ya kno lol) and if i need to do anything speacial while drying/curing to ensure they will sprout.
I wanted to comment that i just pulled a couple buds from lower branches, and found a couple hermie seeds, they were green, so I plopped one in soil, watered it, and in a few days i have a plant up, eveb before harvest of the parent..... so it really is not that picky..
 

AlteredEgo

Active Member
Hey Riddleme,
Thought I'd bump this up for ya. TONS of useful info.
I'm going to add some Grandmas molasses to my next watering. Is it OK to mix with my other nutes, or better on its own?
Daniels
P.S How's my journal update with new pics look? (Day 25)

I totally agree with the molasses, and I also came to many of the same realizations, in much the same way riddle did. I grow in a very similar way. I say slow down, feed well, get to know the plant, and treat it the way it wants to be treated, yes, emotionally too, and you will get the finest, and plenty of it.

Molasses also acts as a chelant, causing the available nutrients to be available in a more readily usable form (chelated). This means the plants, and the microbes have no need to convert. It also attracts beneficial microbes, as the carbs are food for them. Soil with molasses in it really lives. Also has potassium, and many trace minerals. Produces BIG buds, really sweet taste. I use it on everything, and my jalepenos are great too. Oh, almost forgot, mixed about 4T/Gal, it will cause fire ants to move away outside. Useful stuff!

One more thing, .5-1T/Gal is a great flush as well.
 

homer371

Well-Known Member
great info alteredego, on both the hermie seeds and the molasses. one thing i wanted to add, from what i've read, molasses drops ph by about 1 point at 1 tablespoon per gallon. this is useful to know for people using the color test kits, because molasses obscures the color.
 

AlteredEgo

Active Member
great info alteredego, on both the hermie seeds and the molasses. one thing i wanted to add, from what i've read, molasses drops ph by about 1 point at 1 tablespoon per gallon. this is useful to know for people using the color test kits, because molasses obscures the color.
Hey, I know a dude named Homer, great guy. Anyway, yes, the ph thing is a good note. I never notice partially due to a lame ph tester, and the fact that I already have so much crap in the mix who knows what. I do an organic mix, with just a bit of muriatic acid to bring the ph down to somewhere between 5.5-6.5. I treat my soil like a ph buffer, the main reason I use soil. I actually use MG Moisture control, and additives to lighten it a bit, and ALWAYS use diatomatious earth, to rid the MG of the root gnats that seem to come with it. I do think my methods would work with any soil light enough to drain well for flushing.

Anyway, thanks for the comment.
 

AlteredEgo

Active Member
IMO it is more about preventing problems than anything else, #1 problem with new growers is overwatering, in a 5 gallon pot a seedling has no way to wick the water off so it stands in the pot damp for weeks inviting potential problems. A gardener that knows this would water said pot differently and may never have a problem.

I think the secondary consideration is plant vigor and the ability to better control it in the smaller pot while the plant is small.

and finaly the ability to control plant size in a smaller garden, in the stages up upcaning a grower gets a better idea how the strain grows and reacts and this gives more opportunity to control overall size
Plus, i really like to take my plants up through a series of smaller pots, allowing it to get very near root bound in each. This seems to promote more growth of root fibers, because each one cannot just keep growing in a small pot. again, I grow in no hurry, but I get great smoke.

I never have a transplant shock, however I do accomplish this differently from riddleme, I pop it out of the pot when it is on the dry side, and put the plug in the larger pot, and then cover it. Usually i cover them a bit up the stem, as this area will also root if under soil. I then water the new UNPACKed soil, and the plant normally makes a huge growth spurt, and rapidly extends roots into the new media. My last plant, i transplanted it about 5 weeks before harvest, and the buds are pulling the limbs down, a few are upsidedown, lol. In the long run, I also get quantity, as well as quality.
 

WWShadow

Well-Known Member
The 400 watt Quantum Digital ballast claims to work on bulbs on the 50 to 60hz range, so does this mean that it will work on the CMH? I found one site where the ansi code was listed as m159/o/s51
Any ideas?
 

Illumination

New Member
The 400 watt Quantum Digital ballast claims to work on bulbs on the 50 to 60hz range, so does this mean that it will work on the CMH? I found one site where the ansi code was listed as m159/o/s51
Any ideas?
No digi's other than ones specifically designed for cmh from what I have read

Namaste':leaf:
 

Illumination

New Member
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Namaste':leaf:
 

WWShadow

Well-Known Member
I got a response form the people at Quantum Horticulture The Quantum Digital ballast will run the philips CMH bulb just fine. It is built to run both regular HPS & MH as well as Digital bulbs. So Riddle, you can add Quantum digital ballasts to the list. I'll follow up with my experiences with the quantum ballast & the CMH bulb.
 

xivex

Active Member
I got a response form the people at Quantum Horticulture The Quantum Digital ballast will run the philips CMH bulb just fine. It is built to run both regular HPS & MH as well as Digital bulbs. So Riddle, you can add Quantum digital ballasts to the list. I'll follow up with my experiences with the quantum ballast & the CMH bulb.
This is very interesting. Id be curious what the people at Phillips CMH lamp division would say about running their CMH bulb in the quantum digital ballast. I thought all digitals and all CMHs were incompatible?

Sheesh I need to catch up on this thread from page 1. Its so monstrous tho, its intimidating! LOL...but I'm sure its worth it, tons of good gems to absorb.

/me gets ta readin'..

X
 

riddleme

Well-Known Member
I got a response form the people at Quantum Horticulture The Quantum Digital ballast will run the philips CMH bulb just fine. It is built to run both regular HPS & MH as well as Digital bulbs. So Riddle, you can add Quantum digital ballasts to the list. I'll follow up with my experiences with the quantum ballast & the CMH bulb.
I have heard of a few digitals that "should" run a CMH bulb but it is not something I would do, Phillips has explained that the bulbs can explode and I would never take a chance on that happenin while I was away :)
 
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