Some Sort of deficiency....?

BigBoyCaprice

Active Member
Photo 14.jpgPhoto 13.jpg


It's obvious this is some sort of deficiency, but what can I do to help these little babies? These came from 2 different plants. The yellow withering leaf comes from an armageddon in week 6 of flowering, the purplish looking leaf comes from sour strawberry in week 7 of flowering.


Thanks for any help.
 

Carne Seca

Well-Known Member
View attachment 1374893View attachment 1374894


It's obvious this is some sort of deficiency, but what can I do to help these little babies? These came from 2 different plants. The yellow withering leaf comes from an armageddon in week 6 of flowering, the purplish looking leaf comes from sour strawberry in week 7 of flowering.


Thanks for any help.

How long has this problem been going on?
What STRAIN are you growing?
What was the establishing technique? (seed or clone?)
What is the age of your plants?
How long have they been in the soil mixture they are in now?
Were they in the same mixture when they were seedlings/smaller plant? If not, what mixture were they in before?
How Tall are the plants?
What PHASE (seedling, vegetative or flower) are the plants in?
What Technique are you using? (SOG, SCROG etc)
What size pots are you using? (Include how many subjects to pot)
What substrate/medium are you using? What brand of soil mixture are you using?(percentage of perlite, vermiculite...etc?)
What brand Nutrient's are you using?
How much of each nutrient are you using with how much water? *Knowing the brand is very helpful*
How often are you feeding?
If flowering, when did you switch over to using Bloom nutrients?
What order are you mixing your nutrients? (example: veg nutes 1st, bloom 2nd ect)
What is the TDS/EC/PPM of your nutrients used?
What is the pH of the "RUN-OFF"?
How often are you testing pH/ppm/EC/TDS?
What method of pH test was administered? Using Strips? pH pen?
How often are you watering?
When was your last feeding and how often are you feeding?
What size bulb are you using?
How old is your bulbs?
What is the distance to the canopy?
What is your RH Factor? (Relative Humidity)
What is the canopy temperature?
What is the Day/Night Temp? (Include fluctuation range)
What is the current Air Flow? (cfm etc.)
Tell us about your ventilation, intake exhaust and when its running and not running ?
Is the fan blowing directly at plants?
Is the grow substrate constantly wet or moist?
Is your water HARD or SOFT?
What water are you using? Reverse Osmosis (RO)? Tap? Bottled? Well water? Distilled? Mineral Water?
If using tap water, what is the ppm/EC/TDS of the water right out of the tap?(Only if you have a tds pen)
If using RO,Distilled,mineral water, what is the ppm/EC/TDS without any additives?(Only if you have a tds pen)
Are you using water from a water softener?
Has plant been recently pruned, cloned or pinched?
Have any pest chemicals been used? If so what and when?
Are plant's infected with pest's?

You have already answered some of the questions. Fill out what you can and we will have a better idea on what's going on. :)

Offhand I'd say you have some phosphorus issues.
 

thexception

Well-Known Member
one last comment, as i re-read ur post, if the stems are turning purple then #2 could be sulfur, (or a combo of the two) I didnt notice that in the pic, but u would be the better judge
 

fancylad

Member
Too much sulfur or not enough? I have plants that have been through a bunch of issues (doing much better now) but have purple stems.
 

Carne Seca

Well-Known Member
You can also get purple stems from phosphorus deficiency. Cold temps can hamper the plants ability to process phosphorus. It would be nice if the OP would give us more info. to go by.
 

thexception

Well-Known Member
to answer u fancylad, that would be a deficiency.

Here is some more detailed information about some of these deficiencies which comes directly from the book... Marijuana Horticulture The indoor/outdoor medical grower's bible:

S-Sulfur Deficiency: Young leaves turn lime green to yellowish. As shortage progresses, leaves yellow interveinally and lack succulence. Veins remain green and leaf stems and petioles turn purple. Leaf tips can burn, darken, and hook downward. S deficiency resembles a N deficiency, acute S deficiency causes elongated stems that become woody at the base. S deficiency occurs indoors when the pH is too high or when there is excessive calcium present & available.

Progression is as follows=older leaves turn a pale green, leaf stems turn purple and more leaves turn pale green, entire leaves turn yellow, intervienal yellowing, acute deficiency causes more and more leaves to develop purple leaf stems and yellow leaves.

Treat: fertilize with hydroponic fertz that contain S. Lower pH to 5.5 to 6. Add inorganic S to a fertilizer that contains magnesium sulfate (Epsom salts) Organic sources of sulfur include mushroom composts and most animal manures. Make sure to apply only well-rotted manures to avoid burning roots.

Fe-Iron: I deficiencies are common with pH is above 6.5 & uncommon when the pH is below 6.5. Symptoms may appear duing rapid growth or stressful times and disappear by themselves. Young leaves are unable to draw immobile iron from older leaves, even though it is present in the soil. The first symptoms appear on the smaller leaves as veins remain green and areas between the veins turn yellow. Interveinal chlorosis starts at the opposite end of the leaf tip, the apex of the leaves attached by the petiole. Leaf edges can turn upward as the deficiency progresses. Leaves fall off in severe cases. I deficiency is sometimes traced to an excess of copper.

Progression is as follows: younger leaves and growing shoots turn pale green and progress to yellow between the veins starting at the petiole but the veins remain green. More and more leaves turn yellow and develop interveinal chlorosis. In acute cases, leaves develop necrosis and drop.

Treat: lower the soil pH to 6.5 or less. Avoid fertz that contain excessive amounts of manganese, zinc, copper which inhibit iron uptake. High levels of phosphorus complete with uptake of iron. Improve drainage, excessively wet soil holds little oxygen to spur iron intake. Damaged or rotten rooots also lower iron uptake. Increase root-zone temperature. Apply chelated iron in liquid form to root zone. Chelates are decomposed by light and must be thoroughly mixed with the growing medium to be effective. Exposing the nutrient solution to light causes depleted iron. Sterlizing the nutrient solution with UV light causes iron to precipitate. Leaves should green up in four or five days. Complete, balanced, hydroponic nutrients contain iron, and deficiencies are seldom a problem. Organic sources of iron, as well as chelates, include cow, horse, and chicken manure. Use only well-rotted manures to avoid burning plants.

P-Phosphorus: A lack of P causes stunted growth and smaller leaves; leaves turn bluish-green and blotches often appear. Stems, leaf steams (petioles), and main veins turn reddish-purple starting on the leaf's underside. Note: the reddening of the stems and the veins is not always well pronounced. The leaf tips of older leaves turn dark and curl downward. Severely affected leaves develop large purplish-black necrotic (dead) blotches. These leaves later become bronzish-purple, dry, shrivel up, contort, and drop off. Flowering is often delayed, buds are uniformally smaller, seed yeild is poor, and plants become very vulnerable to fungal and insect attack. P deficiencies are aggravated by clay, acidic, and soggy soils. Zinc is also necessary for proper utilization of P. Deficiencies are somewhat common and are often misdiagnosed, and are most common when growing medium pH is above 7 and P is unable to be absorbed properly; the soil is acidic (below 5.8 and/or there is an excess of iron and zinc, the soil has become fixated (chemically bound) with phosphates.

Treat: by lowering pH to 5.5-6.2 in the hydroponic units; 6 to 7 for clay soils; and 5.5-6.5 for potting soils so P will become available. If the soil is too acidic, and a excess of iron and zinc exists, P becomes unavailable. If you are growing in soil, mix a complete fertilizer that contains P into the growing medium before planting. Fertigate with an inorganic, complete hydroponic fertilizer that contains P. Mix in the organic nutrients-bat guano, steamed bone meal, natural phosphates, or barnyard manure, to add P to soil. Always use finely ground organic components that are readily available to the plants.
 

thexception

Well-Known Member
I would also like to add some minor deficiencies or excesses are not necessarily something to worry about if the overall plant seems healthy. Obviously knowing the specifics of the strain being grown is the best indicator, to know exactly WHAT kinds of fertz that plant generally requires more or less of. I think some people get concerned about every little detail, when it is near impossible to provide 100% perfect conditions/fertz for what would be ideal for any particular strain. Only nature can be perfect :) If overall the plant seems healthy, is growing daily at the ranges specified for that stage of growth, I believe less is more; simply leave it be, as a miscalculation of fertz in an attempt to correct a relatively minor problem can cause bigger problems.
 

Carne Seca

Well-Known Member
umm.. I don't know what pictures YOU were looking at but that is more than a "relatively minor problem."
 

cowboylogic

Well-Known Member
Any deficiency minor or not will reduce yield and potency. And that sure looks like a major P deficiency too me.....
 

thexception

Well-Known Member
umm.. I don't know what pictures YOU were looking at but that is more than a "relatively minor problem."
I was not referring to THESE plants, obviously there is a major problem, OF WHICH I think I pretty well answered & addressed. So what, did you only read my last post? In my last post for this topic, I was speaking in terms of the fact a lot of people worry about every little itty bitty thing, where as there really is no cause for concern. Again that does not apply here. Duh...and at least I tried to help, even without more information, and the LONG list you seem to require for offering assistance.
 

Carne Seca

Well-Known Member
I was not referring to THESE plants, obviously there is a major problem, OF WHICH I think I pretty well answered & addressed. So what, did you only read my last post? In my last post for this topic, I was speaking in terms of the fact a lot of people worry about every little itty bitty thing, where as there really is no cause for concern. Again that does not apply here. Duh...and at least I tried to help, even without more information, and the LONG list you seem to require for offering assistance.
You mean the long list that usually yields a proper diagnosis rather than shooting from the hip the way you did? That long list?
 

cowboylogic

Well-Known Member
I was not referring to THESE plants, obviously there is a major problem, OF WHICH I think I pretty well answered & addressed. So what, did you only read my last post? In my last post for this topic, I was speaking in terms of the fact a lot of people worry about every little itty bitty thing, where as there really is no cause for concern. Again that does not apply here. Duh...and at least I tried to help, even without more information, and the LONG list you seem to require for offering assistance.
You mean the long list that usually yields a proper diagnosis rather than shooting from the hip the way you did? That long list?
Noob fight, noob fight! LOL
 
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