blastyblast
Active Member
thats what I was thinking, maybe I'll try milk once, do you think i should use skim,1%,2% or whole? 
Tobacco Mosaic Virus! Serious! With pics!
- Thread starter blastyblast
- Start date
Bublonichronic
Well-Known Member
i dont think milk will work...couple pics on page 1 looked like you were in soil, so lets just start with the basics... flush them really well, i like my pH to be in the 6.0-6.5 range...then when she drys out really well give her a good feed at 1/2 bottle suggested dose...that seems to fix any problem iv ever had(in soil, fuck hydro)...if that dont work then ill believe maybe you got TMV
blastyblast
Active Member
The above are from this website http://www.growery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/190149
And these are mine.... Pretty easy diagnosis.
blastyblast
Active Member
I am moving this plant to the attic and will finish its grow there. I will document it in another thread on the indoor growing section. since I haven't been able to find a whole lot of info about full growth of the plant with this disease. I think I will document it here on RIU. Conditions are slightly different in the attic. its a little cooler, it is less humid, and a little dustier. I think it will be fun. I will post the thread url here when I get it started.
Bublonichronic
Well-Known Member
interesting, your the first person iv seen with this in my 3-4 years of growing...you work at a tobacco plant or somthing?
Hellbillie
Well-Known Member
I had mosaic virus on my Golden Goats and thats not really what it looks like man, looks like this. I received these clones from a dirty hippy with a dirty grow. The virus will show through the leaves, the branches the stocks etc. If any of your plants have any open wounds and you have nats or anything that flies around your other plants would look bad already as well. It acts very quick and spreads quickly.
Hellbillie
Well-Known Member
forgot to say, if it appears on the new growth that means that the virus is in the main stock and there is nothing you can do. If it only appears on the older leaves you can remove them and you will be fine. But you have to catch it very early to be able to do that most of the time. hope this helps some.
Hellbillie
Well-Known Member
You can give it to plants by smoking tobacco and not washing your hands with tomatoes and other plants. I do not know if this possible with cannabis but I would imagine that it is.
hmmm... i did get some clones from a dispensary that had the curling to the side your showing, mine nearly made full loops not just a small curve. they seemed to grow OK but not great when they finished. i'm just about to weigh them but that's gonna be a disappointment as they are fluffy and shitty... they smell good, but overall not impressive. i couldn't find any pics that were similar except zinc deficiencies, so i left them. they were small plants but they shared a flood table with another strain that didn't change it's growth at all, so if in fact i had the virus i would say in my experience it wasn't easily spread. i don't wanna steer you wrong though, i always recommend infested/diseased plants be quarantined until you confirm a diagnoses. i must say though i wasn't even aware that TMV could affect cannabis until i stumbled across this thread, it's never been mentioned in any of the grow guides i've read, whether or not they were pot-specific books.
Jonus
Well-Known Member
The best thing you can do for your plants that are infected with TMV is not to shock them and to raise the lights slightly to take the stress of them. TMV results in light sensitivity and is the reason why some leaves will appear like they have light burn even though they are quite a ways down the plant. It is 'easy' to get TMV and its not just from tobacco products. Most of the potato industry is infected with the potato version and is why it is not recommended to grow the store bought potatoes. Most of the tomato industries are also infected with TMV, and cucumbers and many other cousin plants that are susceptable to the mosaic virus. 99% of the time it goes misdiagnosed, and the additives we give our plants to correct it often causes more stress and worsens the viruses hold.
Best to raise the lights slightly, drop the lights on temperature as low as you can, raise the amount of co2 in the room as well, more intake air for example if possible. TMV often results in leaf drop which takes with it the ability of the plant to take in lots of co2....resulting in small buds.
Best to raise the lights slightly, drop the lights on temperature as low as you can, raise the amount of co2 in the room as well, more intake air for example if possible. TMV often results in leaf drop which takes with it the ability of the plant to take in lots of co2....resulting in small buds.
djruiner
Well-Known Member
my guess would be...nute burn..and ph issues...you said you dont use a digital ph meter...if your water is ph of 6-6.5...that must be before your nutes are added...most nutes are going to effect your ph.get a digi tester because any other type of strip test isnt going to give you a correct reading...seeing as nutes change water colors.you also got a hint of nute burn that i can see from some of the pics...thats the yellow on the tips of the leaves.start your nutes off at 1/4 strength...then increase after they get used to it.and if you start misting your plants with milk...first your gonna start having bug issues...and second...do you want the smell of soured milk on your plant and in your soil?
give her a good flush...let it dry out..then start doing 1/4 strength feedings....other than a few curled leaves...and the yellowing...which will happen in most flowering plants....it look pretty healthy.trying new drastic measures can hurt your plant more then help it...try the easiest solution first.
give her a good flush...let it dry out..then start doing 1/4 strength feedings....other than a few curled leaves...and the yellowing...which will happen in most flowering plants....it look pretty healthy.trying new drastic measures can hurt your plant more then help it...try the easiest solution first.
Jonus
Well-Known Member
There is no doubt in my mind from those pics that this is a subvirus of TMV called hemp mosaic virus. What looks like pH spotting or bubbling, the interveinal chlorosis often mistaken as nutrient deficiencies, the appearance of what looks like light burn in the mid section of the plants, and the clincher, the symtom that ties them all together, the deformed leaves that curve to the right or left with half the leaf fading. All those combined is mosaic virus, any of those without the curved leaves are not TMV. The curved leaves is what gives TMV away, that and WHEN the symtoms show up. Usually a week or so after the first big shock, in this case and in most cases, switching to budding.
there's nothing wrong with liquid ph testing. i used ONLY liquid testers for around the first 6 months i was growing, and i never had any issues. the chemical they use changes color with different ph ranges, and trust me, with the small sample you're checking (less than 1/2 oz.) your nutrient color will not affect the test significantly, if at all. yes, the meter is the better option. But if you are maybe just getting into growing and don't wanna spend all your money on hydro stuff and then decide to go to soil because it's so confusing to grow hydro thanks to all the misinformation, then yes i would recommend spending $10 on a liquid test kit that will last 6 months, instead of spending ~$50 or more on a meter that you may not end up using in your growing anyway. in fact i still have my liquid as a backup in case my meter should ever fail.
djruiner
Well-Known Member
first off..a good meter isnt that much...mine was only $20.and i started with the liquid testers...and had major issues...after getting a digi meter did i find out that 1 liquid tester was about 3.4 off from what it really was,and the other was about 2.8 off...so id rather spend the $10 more and KNOW im getting a correct reading...and not have to deal with making sure i get the right amount of drops in...then staring at a color chart.if your just growing 1 plant for fun...then you really dont need one...but any serious grower does.
hmmm. i used to doubt the effectiveness of liquid testers, so i tested it side-by side with my meter, and they were within .5 of each other. as far as KNOWING with a meter, if you have to calibrate it, there's LOTS of room for error. also, not all meters will read EXACTLY the same either. i have used 2 meters side-by-side as well, with a variance of around .3, which tells me that there's no such thing as an EXACT ph reading. they will almost all get it close to eachother. besides, in nature when is ANYTHING ever ideal? soil ph varies sometimes even in the same back yard, yet most plants do fine regardless that fact. PH isn't as important as most people claim it to be. most plant scientists would agree that at ph ranges above 6.5 you lock out iron, at ph levels above 6.0 you lock out phosphorus and calcium, but at the ph ranges 4.0-6.0 all nutrients are available, with the ideal range for most plants being between 5.0-6.0.
blastyblast
Active Member
I have started a thread about the growth and maturation of this plant, you can find it here------->>>>>>>> https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/385341-mosaic-virus-documented-grow-started.html#post4916629
So I also have this. Its on a Razzelberry (possibly Grape Kush) that I got from a Denver Colorado dispensary. I am on my second batch and the first went fine (maybe below par but not disastrous) and this batch looks GREAT so don't freak out. According to Annon @ http://www.growery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/190149 this is TMV and its common in Holland but I never trust any single forum response (sorry Annon nothing personal). If it is TMV its has not spread to my Strawberry cough this round and did not spread to the Durban last round (even thou the moms were kept together and the plants are sharing a tray).
I am POSITIVE it is not caused by Ph, ppm, temp, humidity, nutrients or lights since I have not had any of those issues and still have the deformed leaves.
So, if its not environment its either a disease or genetic.
I am almost convinced its TMV but it could also be genetics.
If you have ever had this type of growth please tell me what strain it was on.
I am POSITIVE it is not caused by Ph, ppm, temp, humidity, nutrients or lights since I have not had any of those issues and still have the deformed leaves.
So, if its not environment its either a disease or genetic.
I am almost convinced its TMV but it could also be genetics.
If you have ever had this type of growth please tell me what strain it was on.