Some questions about seedlings/seedling stage

[mgjscdhl]

I'm getting ready for a grow. I already tried one as a clone but
there are new questions and some things I hadn't done with the
clone vs. seeds.

First, when do I start adjusting ph? I've heard posts, and peticularly
some videos/guides saying they used distilled water for popping the seeds.
But how long after that can I start adjusting ph? Both well water, and distilled (in
my experience have had ph of around 8.3-8.5ph. -- my thoughts were every 2nd watering to drop
the ph by around 0.5ph until its to the desired amount.

Is it ok to water more often if I'm using a heating pad? I have a controlable heating pad
for the propogation tray. Most places have said the soil needed to be a few degrees warmer
than surrounding air.. so will that dry out the peat faster and require more water?

Should I be strict on feeding schedule (eg. no ferts for several weeks) or can I give it a minimal
feed if leaves show some yellow?


Thanks for the help. I know I can start soon if I understand just a little more about this.

mgjschdl

 

[pointswest]

Use distilled or RO water until you transplant and the seedlings are starting to root to the sides and bottom of the first transplant pot. Unless the plant is really getting chlorotic ( light green) wait until there are two to four nodes with leaves to start fertilizing. You will have to water more often if you use the heating pad. When the transplant is well rooted you can start to use tap or well water with adjusted pH along with your fertilizer.

 

[mgjscdhl]

so it sounds close to my first grow (a clone); size and no# of nodes. and similar to when I first saw rootlet growing. It would be in a peat pellet, so probably a few roots showing outside the peat?

I thought the heat directed on it would but its hard to know without trying. The r/o humidity and things should keep it moist.

Thanks. I think the fog is clearing

 

[pointswest]

If you are using the peat pellets for germination just start your ferts a few days after you transplant. keep the pellet moist but not drenched and soggy. When you see the outside layer of the peat start to dry it is time to water. Transplant when you see the roots emerge from the pellet.

 

[mgjscdhl]

yes, I'll be using peat pellets.

thank you for your help

 

[mgjscdhl]

I was wondering about seedling stage. More about lighting. I am using part of a closet so I don't have alot of space. One of the solutions I saw was a direct wiring 15w t8 fluorescent light. I'm not entirely sure of the color range/spectrum (its not printed anywhere) but if I replaced the bulb with proper spectrum light is that enough wattage? The space provides for upto 18-19" without re-arranging anything.

 

[coldme]

what kind of seeds are they

 

[reggaerican]

i think you always want to adjust your PH to 5.5 in rooting clones or seedlings and at that stage quality water is a must in my opinion. after roots form if your growing in dirt then PH and water quality isnt that cucial, but i like 6-6.5 in dirt. now if your hydro them girls get a little picky about there water. they like clean RO water and a PH of 5.5.

 

[gobbly]

First, when do I start adjusting ph? I've heard posts, and peticularly
some videos/guides saying they used distilled water for popping the seeds.
But how long after that can I start adjusting ph? Both well water, and distilled (in
my experience have had ph of around 8.3-8.5ph. -- my thoughts were every 2nd watering to drop
the ph by around 0.5ph until its to the desired amount.

well water and distilled water are two very different things. Your well water will be whatever it is, sounds like you have tested it. distilled is rather pure, and pure water is basically a ph of 7. You would need something in the water like calcium to react with c02 absorbed from the air to alter the ph from neutral. This will be the case for 0 tds ro/di water as well.

Far as ph, 6ish is good, and is similar to rainwater. 6-6.5 is where I stay for soil, you want to go a ph point lower for hydro from what I always hear.

 

[mgjscdhl]

I"ll probably try planting white rhino, they are fem'd seeds and I have 3 left.

Water is definitely important. I'm probably being very picky but I want to make sure also. Well water and bottled have been high in ph, distilled (locally) has been higher than expected.. BUT I plan on calibrating my meter and ph drops/strips as my backup. I'll know a little more later but I don't mind buying some distilled water to start with.

 

[gobbly]

I"ll probably try planting white rhino, they are fem'd seeds and I have 3 left.

Water is definitely important. I'm probably being very picky but I want to make sure also. Well water and bottled have been high in ph, distilled (locally) has been higher than expected.. BUT I plan on calibrating my meter and ph drops/strips as my backup. I'll know a little more later but I don't mind buying some distilled water to start with.

hmmm. the only thing I have found in distilled water has been copper, and in very very low amounts (most I have seen is around 7 ppm). I have suspected this is from the distilling apparatus, which are often made of copper. This shouldn't alter the ph dramatically, and pure water is neutral. If it's not a ph of 7 it's not pure. It's possible the source of distilled you are using just sucks, but more likely is that your ph testing isn't working. You could verify the test is working by testing other known ph's like vinegar, or using another tester to see if the two agree.

 

[mgjscdhl]

I think it just sucks (source). I've gone to several grocery and drug stores. There's only been 2-3 choices that actually tell you its distilled water and zero r/o without buying a system. Definitely agree the meter should be tested but I'm not as convinced its at fault. I had tested it with two seperate meters and even if the other one died I still gotten fairly close readings. But I definitely need to check it. I bought some ph strips and calibration fluid so I think it'll remove the guesswork and I'll have the strips as backup for water (without fert - I'm guessing that might effect an accurate visual reading).

I'll see if its on the label but if its not what range are they typically?