you got a nice group of girls thereOkay Big Girl, is looking great. I just measured her and she just hit 3' exactly, how big do you guys think she will get in 5-7weeks?
WonderWoman is looking very healthy.
Shorty, "the short rider thats been in 12/12 for 2+weeks now," I think is ready to show some hairs. I think I might see some but not sure yet.
I lst'd both top branches as you can see from some of the pics.
I trimmed the yellow leaves of the bagseed funk, "BS." I watered it with straight water and its seems like the new growth is good so far.
The other topped SR is showing some small preflowers, I think it might go male..I should know in the next couple days.
Anyway enjoy, I'm changing the picture days to mondays since thats when big girl went into flowering.
First grow/CFL stealth cab/Short Rider
- Thread starter SmeLLyTreeZ
- Start date
SmeLLyTreeZ
Well-Known Member
Thanks harth, Its a great feeling seeing those buds get bigger everyday! I can't wait until the wonderwoman starts packing on some bud too! Oh there all under 12/12 now btw, except the clones of course. Their under 16 right now and I'll probably bump them up to 18 then to 20 within the next couple weeks.
SmeLLyTreeZ
Well-Known Member
Thanks CD, lets hope they live!!
SmeLLyTreeZ
Well-Known Member
Thanks for stopping in hempstead! The SR started flowering a week before the wonderwomen plus The wonderwoman should take longer to flower right? Thanks for being honest, your shortrider sure did look good though
SmeLLyTreeZ
Well-Known Member
On 7/22 the two short riders that I had left, one outdoor "BigGirl" and the 3 week old indoor, where switched to 12/12 and took the spots of the two massive males that I grew inside. BG showed sex a few days later and the other girl, we will call her shorty just showed her hairs today! So 20 days of 12/12 for this girl to show.
Its the one that I've been practicing my lst on, it looks like it should have quite a few bud points. That makes 3 confirmed females, 2 SR and 1 WW! All of them have now officially started flowering so here we go!
Here's a few pics from earlier of just the SR that showed today!
Oops the second pic is the WW and I don't know how to remove it.
Its the one that I've been practicing my lst on, it looks like it should have quite a few bud points. That makes 3 confirmed females, 2 SR and 1 WW! All of them have now officially started flowering so here we go!
Here's a few pics from earlier of just the SR that showed today!
Oops the second pic is the WW and I don't know how to remove it.
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Concord Dawn
Well-Known Member
hell yeah treeZ, looking real nice!! you've got some good looking girls there.
hey i found this about when to harvest, its pretty good. heres the link.
When To Harvest, Reading Trichomes
hey i found this about when to harvest, its pretty good. heres the link.
When To Harvest, Reading Trichomes
SmeLLyTreeZ
Well-Known Member
Thanks!! I'm excited! That was some great info, I can't wait until she starts to show amber trics and her hairs start to recede!! You have any good links about drying/curing
Yea I did bring her in because she was the only girl out of the original 4! Plus I was getting paranoid lol.. Thats why shes a little lanky compared to the males I vegged indoors for 9weeks. I'm amazed at how fast her bud is devoloping though, you can tell this girl was ready to go into flowering!!
Here's a quick couple pics of her throughout her life, shes the one on the left in the second pic.
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Concord Dawn
Well-Known Member
SmeLLyTreeZ
Well-Known Member
Nice, some more great info to go along with this thread!
Another question for those following or just stopping in.. Like I was saying earlier my ph has dropped from 8.0 tap to 5.3 after adding b/b,t/b and molasses and letting them sit 24 hours, so my question... Is it safe to use dolomite lime even though I'm still fertilizing? I read a few things online and it said not to use with fertilizer in any way so it kind of confused me...
I could just make another batch and do b/b and t/b on nute days and just regular water and molasses on non nute days and that should bring it between 6.5-7 for both.
Or I could keep doing what I'm doing I just have to find a way to raise the ph 1 point without hurting anything!!
Thanks for the help, +Rep if I'm able to.
BTW CD you got more rep
SmeLLyTreeZ
Well-Known Member
I just mixed a new batch, 2teaspoons of tiger bloom and 1 tablespoon of big bloom, getting ready to feed them, it will be "shortys" first dose of flowering nutes
I am still curious about the dolo lime though..? If anyone has any ideas?
I am still curious about the dolo lime though..? If anyone has any ideas?
Concord Dawn
Well-Known Member
hey man, found this for ph, might help.
Ph Problems
One of the first signs of having a slight ph problem is, your plant having part of the leaves kind of twisty, spotty with brown, yellowish, red spots within each other.
Sometimes they don’t have to have all the colors, they could just be spots that have yellowish brown, or just reddish brown and can happen anywhere on the plant. Mainly starts on big fan leaves then goes to little leaves.
When this happens you need to check your soil ph, water ph before and after adding your nutrients. One of the biggest causes is adding nutrients like earth juice; they take the ph down quite a bit. Also can happen when you add bone and blood meal to your soil, that will throw the ph off as well, so it’s smart to test the mix before putting your plants into the mix. After the spots happen you will soon see nutrients being locked out, when that happens DO NOT ADD ANYTHING TO FIX THE PROBLEM UNTILL YOU GET YOUR PH FIXED!! Reason why is, because the plant isn’t absorbing that nutrient, by adding the nutrient it is deficient in, you are causing it to have a build up in the soil therefore can cause that nutrient to become toxic to the plant, because of buildup, to much buildup of certain nutrients will lock out other nutrients. In order to fix the problem you will need to first fix the ph and then if the soil is deficient in nutrients you can add it to fix the problem. A digital PH tester is the best tester to use as they are the most accurate. If you can’t afford a digital ph meter, then your best bet is to get ph testing papers. DO NOT get soil testers, those are the cheapest junk I ever seen and do not give good readings, so you cant rely on one of those. There are a lot of good ph testers out there, one of them is hanna. That is the one I use and is the best money ever spent! Vast majority of problems with soil ph comes from the soil if it has additives like peat moss, which is HILGY acidic..... and or the water you are using, as well as nutrient deficiencies from using the wrong ph for watering. You want to be careful when adjusting your ph, doing this over a week is the best idea, to fast will cause shock to the plant. If you can’t get a hold of a ph tester or ph test papers. If you have some dolomite lime, its always better to use it in soil rather than every time you water, imo and from others (Uncle Ben) That it really doesn’t stabilize as many people think it does, Soil pH and micronutrient availability are interrelated. Don’t Use to much lime to decrease the soil pH to a point where micronutrients can't be unavailable to plants. The micronutrients affected by pH include iron, manganese, zinc and, not as often copper. The problems when you apply to much lime can make it harder to correct your ph than what you would have when you didn’t add as much lime. You can always add more lime, but if you add to much you can’t remove it if you put to much lime in the soil. With great soil moisture, lime will work immediately and pH will start to change over a few months. However, it can take up to a year for the real benefit of lime to work. As the soil pH rises, the time it takes for lime to react decreases due to lower levels of soil acids. If you need to change your ph when its to high, if you choose to use lime it will not help as much as you think in lowering your ph, it would need alot of lime to lower your ph to a point where it would cause a toxcicity to the plants so look else where to use something to lower your ph rather than using lime.
So here at the bottom is a list of some buffers that are good to go with when raising and lowering ph!
Here are some ph buffers when your ph is too high: Use these SOIL PH Adjustments to lower your ph: sawdust, composted leaves, wood chips, cottonseed meal, leaf mold and peat moss. Sawdust, composted leaves, woodchips and, lemon juice, PH DOWN.
Hydro PH Adjustments: PH Down (vinegar and lemon juices are good for soil, but not recommended for hydro use) Phosphoric acid during flowering and Nitric acid for vegtative growth.Thanks goes out to syko2 for that one! (Only quality PH buffers should be used to adjust ph and be sure the buffer and nutrient work's well together.)
Here are some that will raise the ph: use these SOIL Adjustments when your ph is to low: PH UP, dolomite lime, hardwood ash, bone meal, crushed marble, or crushed oyster shells, potassium hydroxide <--- Thank you Uncle Ben!
Hydro Adjustments: PH UP,lime,potassium hydroxide and potassium sillicate .(Only quality PH buffers should be used to adjust ph and be sure the buffer and nutrient work's well together.)
Ph Problems
One of the first signs of having a slight ph problem is, your plant having part of the leaves kind of twisty, spotty with brown, yellowish, red spots within each other.
Sometimes they don’t have to have all the colors, they could just be spots that have yellowish brown, or just reddish brown and can happen anywhere on the plant. Mainly starts on big fan leaves then goes to little leaves.
When this happens you need to check your soil ph, water ph before and after adding your nutrients. One of the biggest causes is adding nutrients like earth juice; they take the ph down quite a bit. Also can happen when you add bone and blood meal to your soil, that will throw the ph off as well, so it’s smart to test the mix before putting your plants into the mix. After the spots happen you will soon see nutrients being locked out, when that happens DO NOT ADD ANYTHING TO FIX THE PROBLEM UNTILL YOU GET YOUR PH FIXED!! Reason why is, because the plant isn’t absorbing that nutrient, by adding the nutrient it is deficient in, you are causing it to have a build up in the soil therefore can cause that nutrient to become toxic to the plant, because of buildup, to much buildup of certain nutrients will lock out other nutrients. In order to fix the problem you will need to first fix the ph and then if the soil is deficient in nutrients you can add it to fix the problem. A digital PH tester is the best tester to use as they are the most accurate. If you can’t afford a digital ph meter, then your best bet is to get ph testing papers. DO NOT get soil testers, those are the cheapest junk I ever seen and do not give good readings, so you cant rely on one of those. There are a lot of good ph testers out there, one of them is hanna. That is the one I use and is the best money ever spent! Vast majority of problems with soil ph comes from the soil if it has additives like peat moss, which is HILGY acidic..... and or the water you are using, as well as nutrient deficiencies from using the wrong ph for watering. You want to be careful when adjusting your ph, doing this over a week is the best idea, to fast will cause shock to the plant. If you can’t get a hold of a ph tester or ph test papers. If you have some dolomite lime, its always better to use it in soil rather than every time you water, imo and from others (Uncle Ben) That it really doesn’t stabilize as many people think it does, Soil pH and micronutrient availability are interrelated. Don’t Use to much lime to decrease the soil pH to a point where micronutrients can't be unavailable to plants. The micronutrients affected by pH include iron, manganese, zinc and, not as often copper. The problems when you apply to much lime can make it harder to correct your ph than what you would have when you didn’t add as much lime. You can always add more lime, but if you add to much you can’t remove it if you put to much lime in the soil. With great soil moisture, lime will work immediately and pH will start to change over a few months. However, it can take up to a year for the real benefit of lime to work. As the soil pH rises, the time it takes for lime to react decreases due to lower levels of soil acids. If you need to change your ph when its to high, if you choose to use lime it will not help as much as you think in lowering your ph, it would need alot of lime to lower your ph to a point where it would cause a toxcicity to the plants so look else where to use something to lower your ph rather than using lime.
So here at the bottom is a list of some buffers that are good to go with when raising and lowering ph!
Here are some ph buffers when your ph is too high: Use these SOIL PH Adjustments to lower your ph: sawdust, composted leaves, wood chips, cottonseed meal, leaf mold and peat moss. Sawdust, composted leaves, woodchips and, lemon juice, PH DOWN.
Hydro PH Adjustments: PH Down (vinegar and lemon juices are good for soil, but not recommended for hydro use) Phosphoric acid during flowering and Nitric acid for vegtative growth.Thanks goes out to syko2 for that one! (Only quality PH buffers should be used to adjust ph and be sure the buffer and nutrient work's well together.)
Here are some that will raise the ph: use these SOIL Adjustments when your ph is to low: PH UP, dolomite lime, hardwood ash, bone meal, crushed marble, or crushed oyster shells, potassium hydroxide <--- Thank you Uncle Ben!
Hydro Adjustments: PH UP,lime,potassium hydroxide and potassium sillicate .(Only quality PH buffers should be used to adjust ph and be sure the buffer and nutrient work's well together.)
SmeLLyTreeZ
Well-Known Member
Your are the man CD! Thanks again.
I had no idea what Potassium hydroxide was so I had to look it up lol.. Here's some info on that if anyone is wondering the same thing..
The chemical compound potassium hydroxide , is a metallic base . It is very alkaline and is a "strong base", along with sodium hydroxide , lithium hydroxide , calcium hydroxide , barium hydroxide and strontium hydroxide .
A toxic and highly corrosive chemical used to make soap, in bleaching, and as a paint remover. . Pure potassium hydroxide forms white, deliquescent crystals. For commercial and laboratory use it is usually in the form of white pellets. A strong base, it dissolves readily in water, giving off much heat and forming a strongly alkaline, caustic solution . It is commonly called caustic potash. It closely resembles sodium hydroxide in its chemical properties and has similar uses, e.g., in making soap, in bleaching, and in manufacturing chemicals, but is less widely used because of its higher cost. It is prepared chiefly by electrolysis of potassium chloride; commercial grades of it sometimes contain the chloride as well as other impurities.
A compound composed of one potassium cation and one hydroxide anion. It occurs as white, deliquescent crystals in a variety of forms, such as lumps, pellets, or flakes. It is toxic if ingested or inhaled, is a strong caustic, and will corrode tissue.
Uses of Potassium Hydroxide
I had no idea what Potassium hydroxide was so I had to look it up lol.. Here's some info on that if anyone is wondering the same thing..
The chemical compound potassium hydroxide , is a metallic base . It is very alkaline and is a "strong base", along with sodium hydroxide , lithium hydroxide , calcium hydroxide , barium hydroxide and strontium hydroxide .
A toxic and highly corrosive chemical used to make soap, in bleaching, and as a paint remover. . Pure potassium hydroxide forms white, deliquescent crystals. For commercial and laboratory use it is usually in the form of white pellets. A strong base, it dissolves readily in water, giving off much heat and forming a strongly alkaline, caustic solution . It is commonly called caustic potash. It closely resembles sodium hydroxide in its chemical properties and has similar uses, e.g., in making soap, in bleaching, and in manufacturing chemicals, but is less widely used because of its higher cost. It is prepared chiefly by electrolysis of potassium chloride; commercial grades of it sometimes contain the chloride as well as other impurities.
A compound composed of one potassium cation and one hydroxide anion. It occurs as white, deliquescent crystals in a variety of forms, such as lumps, pellets, or flakes. It is toxic if ingested or inhaled, is a strong caustic, and will corrode tissue.
Uses of Potassium Hydroxide
- In agriculture , potassium hydroxide is used to correct the pH of acidic soils. It can also be used as a fungicide or even an herbicide .
- It is a major industrial chemical used as a base in a wide variety of chemical processes. Some uses of KOH include acrylate ester copolymer coating, defoaming agents used in the manufacture of paper , saponifying oils for liquid soap, formulation aid for food, pH control agent, polyethylene resins, textile processing and as a catalyst in reactions like the production of biodiesel .
- Other uses include in veterinary medicine in disbudding calves horns and to dissolve scales and hair; in human medicine , to diagnose fungal infections and as a wart and cuticle solvent; manufacture of cleansers. This type of compound is also used in washing powders, some denture cleaners, non- phosphate detergents , and drain or pipe cleaners.
- A very significant use of KOH in terms of significance to the layperson is that alkaline batteries use an aqueous solution of KOH as an electrolyte. Thus, potassium hydroxide helps to power flashlights, smoke detectors, and other battery-powered household items.It is also an anisotropic etchant of silicon , exposing octahedral planes. This technique can create pyramids and regularly-shaped etch pits for uses such as microelectromechanical systems.
SmeLLyTreeZ
Well-Known Member
Today is the start of week 3 of flowering, I can see the crystals starting to form on the leaves and it has a very sweet/skunky smell on Big Girl. She is now 3' 8" and shows no sighns of slowing down
Wonder woman is nearing her second week of flowering and her buds don't seem to be filling out as fast but you can definitely tell she is starting to show tiny flowers.. Shes measuring 1' 7" tall and has a good amount of bud points and is starting to stretch out in a good way!
"Shorty" the youngest and last short rider is looking fantastic and is just over a foot on each top. I'm starting to run out of room so I'm moving her to a friends, under an hps so I can consintrate on the other two girls and then compare the buds from each at the end!
Things are finally starting to come together and I'm loving every minute of it, please any comments, questions or concerns feel free to stop in
Oh the clones still look pretty healthy, starting to lose a little color oh and its day 9 for them. I'm really hoping to see some roots soon!
Wonder woman is nearing her second week of flowering and her buds don't seem to be filling out as fast but you can definitely tell she is starting to show tiny flowers.. Shes measuring 1' 7" tall and has a good amount of bud points and is starting to stretch out in a good way!
"Shorty" the youngest and last short rider is looking fantastic and is just over a foot on each top. I'm starting to run out of room so I'm moving her to a friends, under an hps so I can consintrate on the other two girls and then compare the buds from each at the end!
Things are finally starting to come together and I'm loving every minute of it, please any comments, questions or concerns feel free to stop in
Oh the clones still look pretty healthy, starting to lose a little color oh and its day 9 for them. I'm really hoping to see some roots soon!
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SmeLLyTreeZ
Well-Known Member
Concord Dawn
Well-Known Member
hell yeah treeZ, looking good!!
sirwolf
Active Member
she looks beautiful. good job, keep it up. that got me all excited.....lol