Yellowing Bottom Leaves and Tips

[dikiets420]

Need some help determing whether or not this is a nitrogen deficiency, which i figure it is but would like a second opinion and some good advice as this is my first grow. Appreciate any help at all.



Lights: 23w 2300k and 43w 6000k compact Flourescants
Started with 18/6, just switched to 24/0. Light is within 1 inch from plants.

PH: Don't know but have been using cold water from tap that has been sitting out for at least 3 days. (Don't have meter or ph strips)

Watering/Feeding Cycle: Water everytime fully until water drains and then a bit and don't water again until soil is completely dry and pot feels very light, and Feed with nutrients thru foliar feeding and into soil every 3 days.

Fertilizer: Started just water, then was using 10-56-10 plant prod for rooting and seedling stage, just switched to 20-20-20 plant prod. 1/5th of recommended strength diluted into water.

Temp: 70-85 degrees DAY / 60-70 Night

Humidity: 30-60%

Soil: Loamy Potting Soil with good moisture retention, however, not alot of soil in the very small pots, i feel that the one with the yellow leaves does not have enough soil and space below the surface for the roots.

Grow Room: Box in my closet with Fan.

PLS HELP
THANKS

 

[BCBuddy420]

Need some help determing whether or not this is a nitrogen deficiency, which i figure it is but would like a second opinion and some good advice as this is my first grow. Appreciate any help at all.

View attachment 996152View attachment 996150View attachment 996151View attachment 996153

Lights: 23w 2300k and 43w 6000k compact Flourescants
Started with 18/6, just switched to 24/0. Light is within 1 inch from plants.

PH: Don't know but have been using cold water from tap that has been sitting out for at least 3 days. (Don't have meter or ph strips)

Watering/Feeding Cycle: Water everytime fully until water drains and then a bit and don't water again until soil is completely dry and pot feels very light, and Feed with nutrients thru foliar feeding and into soil every 3 days.

Fertilizer: Started just water, then was using 10-56-10 plant prod for rooting and seedling stage, just switched to 20-20-20 plant prod. 1/5th of recommended strength diluted into water.

Temp: 70-85 degrees DAY / 60-70 Night

Humidity: 30-60%

Soil: Loamy Potting Soil with good moisture retention, however, not alot of soil in the very small pots, i feel that the one with the yellow leaves does not have enough soil and space below the surface for the roots.

Grow Room: Box in my closet with Fan.

PLS HELP
THANKS

Guess what? Im gonna help you.

Lights: Keep your cfl's within 1-2 inches of plants, close as you can but don't burn them. Add some more cfl'
s if possible.

PH: You HAVE to find out what your ph is at. Go buy a little tester kit at the hydroponic store or ask around at a pool selling or hottub place for a testing kit, they are cheap. In soil you want to feed at 6.8- 7.0 veg, and 6.5 - 6.3 for flowering roughly.

Water/feeding cycle: Stop the foliar feeding for now and just concentrate on keeping the soil moist and not drying out completely. It traps roots in dry pockets, not good. It's best in soil to just water on a consistent cycle with nutes every 2nd feeding. Example: I give 3 gallon pots, 3 foot plants 2 litres every 2 days each. Give them a decent flush every 3 weeks or so.

Fertilizer: all I'm gonna say is do some researching and find out what you need to use for different stages of growth. That 20-20-20 = not good, at all. Start again with all your nutrient plans. I would go with some real nice organic stuff from the hydro store. Trust me man.

Temp: the cannabis plant does the best with very consistent temperatures. Perfect being around 78 degrees or so usually. You want a drop of around 15 degrees max at dark time. So say 80 degrees lit to 66 at dark. Perfect. You dont want your temps all over the place, keep them the same for light and dark throughout the grow period. Some like to make it real cold at the end of flowering but thats getting a little more technical.

humidity: seems okay, you will live at least

Grow room: to grow cannabis successfully your going to need air exchange. This means new, fresh air coming in with older stale air going out at timed intervals or all the time. I keep my exhaust and intake running 24/7. To do this setup all you need is an exhaust fan, inline preferably, and some ducting to run it. You are also going to need some ducting to run your passive intake, if you can get it to the outside world, that's the best, fresh cool air. The exhaust fan will put negative pressure on the room therefore sucking in new air through the passive intake. More fresh air, more co2, equalling better growth and virility.

Good luck hope this helped ya get a better start. BTW all the stuff I told you/advised you to do will cost under 250 bux if not cheaper, it'll be worth it to do this properly, trust me on that one. You could always do some reading up, there's tons of info out there

~ BCbuddy

 

[fourrings]

rep this guy^^^^^^

 

[dikiets420]

Ok, so I will stop the foliar feeding for now, try to regulate my temp better, water every 2 days, feed every 2 days, my air flow is good seeing as I have a fan constantly and the space is not completely concealed and thruout the day I leave my window open to bring in fresh air. I will buy more CFL daylights, get a PH test kit.... Do you think it is best to run at 24/7 lights for max growth and potentcy, or is it possible that at say 18/6 the plant may not grow as fast, however, there will be more potent buds.

 

[dikiets420]

And furthermore, in picture #1, do you believe this to be a nitrogen deficiency?

Thank you so much for your help Buddy, much appreciated bro.

 

[quietguy420]

It seems your using some nutes that are a bit strong for some of the plants, It doesn't appear to be detrimental, I would cut back to 1/2 str for a few days and see what happens, also seems like you may have a hi PH causing initial stages of nute lock but not sure looks like it, if infact your nutes are getting locked out you will see an array of deficiencies. Tap water from the city fluctuates, one week it may be a nice perfect 6.4 and next week it can spike all the way up to 8.0 or higher. If your using city water make sure to get a LARGE container like a used 55 gallon food/drink storage barrel. Fill it all the way, let it sit for a few days with an air stone running in it. " MOST IMPORTANTLY, go to your local wal-mart or lowes and get a pack of POOL PH TEST STRIPS like 100 for $1.99 these will allow you to get an estimate of your waters ph. Adjust accordingly.As to your flowering question, What size light are you going to use to flower, how big of a grow room, what is your ceiling height?

 

[BCBuddy420]

^^^^^^ it's a carboard box in his closet, pretty small I think. I second his advice on getting this PH thing regulated. You will need ph up and down, these come in bottles. Remember the hydroponic store is your friend.

 

[BCBuddy420]

Ok, so I will stop the foliar feeding for now, try to regulate my temp better, water every 2 days, feed every 2 days, my air flow is good seeing as I have a fan constantly and the space is not completely concealed and thruout the day I leave my window open to bring in fresh air. I will buy more CFL daylights, get a PH test kit.... Do you think it is best to run at 24/7 lights for max growth and potentcy, or is it possible that at say 18/6 the plant may not grow as fast, however, there will be more potent buds.

Uh no you want to use a schedule of feed, water, feed, water, etc so on and so on. So feed with Ph'd water then 2-3 days later feed with your nutrient mix, repeat process. Get yourself some better nutrients. Just ask what is good for vigorous growth for tomatoes during the vegetative stage. They should hand you something that is around 14-1-5 (n-p-k) high in N, low in P and just a little K. The other guy that is helping suggested you have a resevoir filled with water and an airstone bubbling in it for at least 24 hours. BIINNGGOO. That's what you want man, over 48 hours is too long for letting it sit IMO. Go with either 18/6 or 20/4. I have done extensive research on this topic and the best of the best say that 20/4 is peak for performance. They always need some sleep! Remember when you feed them, leave the water by itself, nothing in it, until it's application time. Now add your nutrients and adjust your ph accordingly, then water. Good luck...anything else?

 

[dikiets420]

Yes, it is just a cardboard box in my closet for the time being at this small state. However, once they outgrow the box, I will just remove it and they will remain growing in my closet which the walls are all white and is well tall enough to grow plants. I will plan on getting some sort of 400w HPS light for flowering and am heading out today to get the PH strips. Now, this is one thing I don't do is add the nutes to the water when I do it, I let them sit for sometime in a spray bottle. I do however, keep a huge container of water which I said above that remains out for 24-36 hours before being used, because it is cold tap water I am using. And I will revert back to a 20-4 light/dark schedule.
I do also believe it could be the lack of space for roots and lack of soil to grow, so I will repotting them into larger containers tomrrow.


One last question: I have the timer above, however, I was wondering if it is ok to plug a MULTIBAR into this to be able to time 3 lights (added a LED for added heat and light) and my fan or would this blow a fuse?