Uncle Ben's Gardening Tweeks and Pointers

riddleme

riddleme

Well-Known Member
hardroc said:
could it also be my humidity? I'm in flower and my humidity is usualy 20-30% I know it's low but could that be the prob?
So hard to tell most of the picks of deff's I see are hard to tell apart and are different from site to site, except for the 20 that have the exact same thread over and over. Any help would be very appreciated. Don't let this beautiful girl go through any more pain.................
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Your humidity is good for flowering and overall that plant looks great,,,,good job!
 
hardroc

hardroc

New Member
the toppes are nice but the lower fan leafs look like the ones I already posted earlier, all crispy and bent sideways and just ugly
 
hardroc

hardroc

New Member
naw, roots are ok, I check 'em before I flushed. I don't belive in root bound anymore, after the party cup grow
 
doctorD

doctorD

Well-Known Member
Uncle Ben said:
With the dark green veining looks like a chlorosis going on.
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So I did a little reading and it looks like you nailed it. One of the causes is root issues. I had a problem a week or so ago and had to remove as much root as I could. They came back strong but for whatever reason I blocked this out of my analysis. Thanks again.
 
Kriegs

Kriegs

Well-Known Member
hardroc said:
oh really? I do have some fungus flys flying around everyonece in awhile.
But I thought it was mag cause of the crispyness, I know it's not nute burn cause I barely feed her, and when I do it's very low amounts.
I also thought it might be because I have a osilating fan blowing really close to the leafs on one side and that's where most of the infected spots are. Could that make the leafs dry out?
I thought it could be a fungus too, I have no idea about plant problems. something I really gotta work on and need help with.
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No way that's from air flow.

Those spots look like bug damage to me -- the live tissue is gone, but they leave the membrane behind. So you get little see-thru windows.

Did you check under the leaves? You have to look very closely - spider mites and thrips are tiny - use a hand lens. Mites don't fly, neither do all species of thrips. A fungus is an off-possibility. There are bunches of fungi called "anthracnose" that attack somewhat like that (but they're usually associated with high humidity and overwatering).
 
hardroc

hardroc

New Member
Yea I don't know what the fuk it is, I guess I'll just have to let her try and pull through by herself.
I wish there was a nice and clear thread about plant problems with clear pix
 
Kriegs

Kriegs

Well-Known Member
hardroc said:
Yea I don't know what the fuk it is, I guess I'll just have to let her try and pull through by herself.
I wish there was a nice and clear thread about plant problems with clear pix
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I hear ya... If you cruise enough of these "plant problem" threads with pic's, you find that one man's zinc deficiency is another man's cal/mag imbalance. That's the problem with MJ still being basically a black-market plant -- no real science being done on growing it.
 
hardroc

hardroc

New Member
yea, it's so confusing. Sorry UB for so many posts but trying to figure it out, I've read prolly 60-70 diff sites about the problem but around 20 of them are the same and the rest are inconsistent.
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
hardroc said:
the toppes are nice but the lower fan leafs look like the ones I already posted earlier, all crispy and bent sideways and just ugly
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What are the NPK values of the foods? May be insect damage, nutrient imbalance (probably too much P). Whatever, you have moisture loss working.

Good luck,
UB
 
hardroc

hardroc

New Member
for veg it's 24-8-16 and flower is 15-30-15 I doubt it's too much P, cause I barely feed her, it would be a deff if anything, but you can't really see from these pics, but it looks like powdery mildew on the leafs, only on the bottem and middle though. My temps are in the low 80's and my humidity is only 20-30%. I'm just so confused. I haven't ran into this crap before.
 
J

jjfoo

Active Member
UB,

I know we can't follow a schedule and must learn to read a plants needs. Do you have any guidelines to how to start feeding?

I found this in an other thread:

"I try to keep my seedlings and clones at about 100-250 ppms. After about 10 days I bump up the ppm to around 500-600 ppm for the next 2-3 weeks. After about a month I raise it to 800-1000 ppm. When I start to bud I am at around 1000 and start taking it up slowly to no more than 1500 ppm. I don't suggest going past 1300 till you have a couple crops down."
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I find my self always feeding week nutes and not wanting to burn my plants. I'm new to soil and in hydro I never really stepped up the nutes. I used one strength for veg from just having roots to going to flower... I never burned any plants but think that I was doing the optimal fertilizing...
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
jjfoo said:
UB,

I know we can't follow a schedule and must learn to read a plants needs. Do you have any guidelines to how to start feeding?

I found this in an other thread:

I find my self always feeding week nutes and not wanting to burn my plants. I'm new to soil and in hydro I never really stepped up the nutes. I used one strength for veg from just having roots to going to flower... I never burned any plants but think that I was doing the optimal fertilizing...
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You give the plant more nutes if it needs it like during the stretch. Less if it doesn't like seedling stage and very late flowering. Your call.
 
J

jjfoo

Active Member
UB,

I'm a bit confused. If I have understood you correctly, you have said that the Lucas formula doesn't have all 16 minerals that a plant needs and that this isn't a good thing.

Jack's doesn't either. I do grow in soil and know that the Lucas formula is targeted for hydro. Maybe this is why they don't have all 16, but I'd like to get your input on this.

I also have some dyna-gro products which do have all 16, but I don't like paying to ship water, I'm looking for a complete fert that is dry.

Should I suppliment with dyna-grow or assume my soil has the missing minerals?
 
S

swampy1111

Member
hi

jsut a couple of quick Qs
ive searched everywere for peters but not available in the uk but i have found dyna- grow, found a 9-3-6 called foliage pro and a 3-12-6 bloom theyre here http://orchidaccessories.co.uk/catalog/index.php/cPath/34 are these the right ones ?
can't get spinout microkote or anything over here but i have heard of people lining pots with copper tape and have heard that works for root pruning, can i ask your thoughts on this and are those nutes the right ones

many thanks
 
riddleme

riddleme

Well-Known Member
swampy1111 said:
hi

jsut a couple of quick Qs
ive searched everywere for peters but not available in the uk but i have found dyna- grow, found a 9-3-6 called foliage pro and a 3-12-6 bloom theyre here http://orchidaccessories.co.uk/catalog/index.php/cPath/34 are these the right ones ?
can't get spinout microkote or anything over here but i have heard of people lining pots with copper tape and have heard that works for root pruning, can i ask your thoughts on this and are those nutes the right ones

many thanks
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Yes those are the right ones
 
C

Crystal Toy

Active Member
meathook666 said:
I disagree, it's almost as good, lol
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First off, much RESPECT to UB and many other for the correct info and patience you all have in answering all those quetions. THANK YOU ALL. now my questions.Using organic nutes 6-4-3 GROW 2-6-6 BLOOM. 1st question is if these are a good NPK ratio is all in one doing very well for the plants. 2nd it says to water with nutes every 3rd watering, water/water /nutes etc. was wondering if i can water with nutes at every watering if i use only 1/2 strength. thanks in advance. ps first grow.
 
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