For All Cap Ebb and Grow Users
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researchkitty
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a float is off balance. Check to make sure they are level.
She.
I hope not many men would have a Hello Kitty avatar!!! The interference was a result of the digital ballast, though, and not the Ebb & Flow Controller. If you are having RF interference with a controller (weird?!), just wrap your pH meters power cord in aluminum foil. Or, those magnetic ferrites you can buy at Radio Shack will do the trick.The problem you have is threefold.
1 - Your pH, while trivially high, is a little high. You should make it 5.6, and then let it slowly rise to no more than 6.0 before you correct it again. When it starts getting in the 6.2+ range it starts to do bad things disallowing nutrients into your plants.
2 - Focus on new growth. What was "done to the bad of the plant" is done, watch the new stuff growing for the warm fuzzy feelin'
3 - Finally, your biggest problem...... You're SEVERELY overwatering your plants. Check out my grow log in my signature. Just fed them week 2 nutrients today in veg. I flood the buckets ONCE about an hour after the lamps turn on. You should remain flooding once to twice per day until you are flowering and the plants get much larger, then kick it to 3 a day a few weeks in flowering then 4 a day by the last week of the flowering cycle. Cut the watering back and your plants should look fine and not droopy in the next 3-4 days at best.
I hope you perform sex better than you type.
hey kitty u now u shit n u can defo put better than me will u have a comment on mine plz n give me advice i have just topped n fim'd so imjust focusing on new growth i could do with imput as every thing easier wen we all stick together mayb u can advise me on root depth as my system small depth k btw i have rock woll hydroton works 4me https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/317301-flood-drain-help-plz-rate.html
thanks . tenbob
thanks . tenbob
morrisgreenberg
Well-Known Member
tenbob and kitty....ahem but didnt i just say all that? =)
morrisgreenberg
Well-Known Member
kitty, i just took a look at your grow and i gotta say the rasta joint is bonkers. i need to know one thing, i run a few rooms and i swear by botanicares PBP line, i wanted to do a comparison using humboldts line, i was online all day lookin g the thier lineup and its so confusing. i would like to know how long you have been using it, how you like it, is it soft like PBP or can you burn plants easily and which products do you run? im so lost they have ginormous, big up and 22. organics dont matter to me but i hate salty synthetic nutes. i dont mind using complicated nutrients either, i am not sure which one to use for the base as there is 3 options, but i would most likely if i didnt know better, sea-cal,sea-mag, honey ginormous of rearly to mid flower and big up for late flower, does that sound right? i do not know anyone personally who runs this stuff and the few people on forums who i have seen use it say its good but they dont even know why its good, wannabee weed barons ya know?
hey tenbob bak am with a mate n he says ur over watering might be lack of drainage in pots also heres a link for a deficicy table cause summat wrong here raise ur light a bit n cool the bulb they need moister to the leaves but not the roots https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/304649-marijuana-deficiency-table-report.html i ere bro 2 elp add sum respect
morrisgreenberg
Well-Known Member
bro do you know what thread you are on? this is the ebb and grow thread, he has clay pellets in a flood and drain system helloooo. all those issues stem from using GH 3 part nutes and over watering, just a simple cut back in flood times will do. plus using a fraction of GH's recomended dosages will result in plants looking like that. young plants get hit hard when using say 3ml of grow-micro-bloom. plus his lamps are 3 feet above the plants, plus he has nutrient salt biuld up, it builds very fast, i recommended a flush every month but to be honest with this stuff once every 2weeks. this is why i recommneded he try the lucas formula, this formula has all the nutrients in correct rates and balanced almost perfectly for an average plant. salts will cause his "rootzone PH" to be different than the rez locking out nutrients. as for humidty he never listed it but as the plants get larger it will rise, for the next 10 days he can be at like 20% RH and be just fine. i dont want to sound like a dick tenbob but instead of just looking at the pictures and throwing out some advice you need to read his post dude
patlpp
New Member
Morris, I think they're tippin a few. I do Lucas (not literally). The general consensus is that Lucas isn't so hot in veg and if using GH go Ratio: 1:1;1 G/M/B EC .9 early veg and Ratio 3:2:1 with 1.9 EC Full Veg, in other words GH's general schedule on the label. Than go Lucas @ 12/12. I found Sensi A/B beats Lucas veg to death. I run about [email protected] conv pretty well with it, (even with the urea). Lucas though is great and I was thinking of using the same technique with Botanicare cns17 coco line.Have you had experience with it or just PBP?
morrisgreenberg
Well-Known Member
just PBP, fox famrms GH flora, BC dyna gro and earth juice have been tried. thats why i suggested the lucas, i know its much easier on plants plus he has 2 strains who clearly have different feeding habits, i think for general health of both strains the lucas would be a good fit. personally when i ran GH's label recipe plants were soooo unhappy, and no matter PH i found myself flushing every week because it took me dumping GH;s line to get healthy plants again. of all those brands i tried the PBP gives me the happiest healthiest plants i have ever seen, never discoloration of any type, never burns or deficientcies, just rapid growth
researchkitty
Well-Known Member
Pretty much every jug of goods from Humboldt is extremely potent product and very thick. The only ones that are watery-thin and clear are those from their Grow/Micro/Bloom line.
Their product line and their website is indeed extremely confusing. I'd recommend going to youtube and watching the Humboldt Nutrients videos. Just search for their name (and dont forget the D in HumbolDt!) and it'll come up. 5 part video, takes a half hour to watch.
But even still it's a bit confusing. So then go to their website and download the 8 week moderate feeding chart. See the products listed? That's what you buy. Ignore the rest, they dont apply to you.
Easy!Enjoy the cost of Humboldt Roots ($24.95 per 25 gallons of water) and ProZyme ($22.50 per 25 gallons of water). The rest of the stuff is reasonably priced, though.
I've used Humboldt products for 2 weeks total. Switched from AN. No experience with your line.
If you like, send me a few seeds and I'll test em with my nutes and you test em with yours. Always love a competition!
Lucas himself says not to use the Lucas Formula for vegging too! Just stick to the bottle for that one is all if you use the same line of nutrients is what he recommends.
thelotuseed
Member
Hey guys, very much indebted to all the feedback thus far.
Whats funny about this all. And its quite funny, is this picture of a perfectly fine plant in soil that we've kept next to the ebb plants the entire time. It makes me want to cry. We just water it every day with light nutrient and it grows like its the sweetest most nicest cuddliest thing in the world.
I'm going to convert to RO water. Going to start feeding once a day. I raised the light just under a foot. Humidity stays around 40-55 and temp fluxes given the outside temp of any given day between 60-75 lights on, probably 50-60 lights off. I'm pretty sure there is adequate air circulation, i run a small fan pointed above the plants and leave an opening in one of the wall curtains. I suppose i could very well have ph poisoned the shit out of them, i did water waaay to much like others suggested smartly and thats gotta be it causing all the powder, probably made the salt build up from readjusting so much, this would seem to make alot of sense if true.
What i'm still generally unsure about is the nute amounts and how i should keep track of them and re-up them. I just purchased a TDS meter which has an adjustable EC conversion currently set at .71.
I found this ask lucas thread: http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/showthread.php?t=892&page=2
I'm tempted to follow this lucas guys instructions because he seems to know his shit and this thread has some of the most well put and accurate/consistent info i've found. I'm just a little confused with the 0-8-16 idea. Does that mean to say 8 ml of micro per gallon and 16 ml per gallon? If so that seems very excessive, as i've just been running 2.5, 2.5., .6 and the plants are shitting themselves. I must be wrong in thinking so, if i am what does it mean then? I think i just dont understand nutrients, ppm, and ec in general. Can someone point me to a thread or something that clearly and simply defines how it all works?
I know that i'd like to start just topping off with ro water every day whilst adding more nutrients to create the right ppm of around 1400 (as lucas suggests) when needed. Seems logical to me, perhaps a bit complicated but understandable if i need to go that way. I can only access RO water by filling up 3 gallon containers ( i have 4) at the safeway 5 minutes away, so it'd be easier if i didnt have to flush frequently. Perhaps every 2 weeks or longer is tolerable.
Pretty sure the RO will clear it all up though, pretty confident on that.
Yup, thanks guys. much love, keep the feedback rolling, loving it.
Whats funny about this all. And its quite funny, is this picture of a perfectly fine plant in soil that we've kept next to the ebb plants the entire time. It makes me want to cry. We just water it every day with light nutrient and it grows like its the sweetest most nicest cuddliest thing in the world.
I'm going to convert to RO water. Going to start feeding once a day. I raised the light just under a foot. Humidity stays around 40-55 and temp fluxes given the outside temp of any given day between 60-75 lights on, probably 50-60 lights off. I'm pretty sure there is adequate air circulation, i run a small fan pointed above the plants and leave an opening in one of the wall curtains. I suppose i could very well have ph poisoned the shit out of them, i did water waaay to much like others suggested smartly and thats gotta be it causing all the powder, probably made the salt build up from readjusting so much, this would seem to make alot of sense if true.
What i'm still generally unsure about is the nute amounts and how i should keep track of them and re-up them. I just purchased a TDS meter which has an adjustable EC conversion currently set at .71.
I found this ask lucas thread: http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/showthread.php?t=892&page=2
I'm tempted to follow this lucas guys instructions because he seems to know his shit and this thread has some of the most well put and accurate/consistent info i've found. I'm just a little confused with the 0-8-16 idea. Does that mean to say 8 ml of micro per gallon and 16 ml per gallon? If so that seems very excessive, as i've just been running 2.5, 2.5., .6 and the plants are shitting themselves. I must be wrong in thinking so, if i am what does it mean then? I think i just dont understand nutrients, ppm, and ec in general. Can someone point me to a thread or something that clearly and simply defines how it all works?
I know that i'd like to start just topping off with ro water every day whilst adding more nutrients to create the right ppm of around 1400 (as lucas suggests) when needed. Seems logical to me, perhaps a bit complicated but understandable if i need to go that way. I can only access RO water by filling up 3 gallon containers ( i have 4) at the safeway 5 minutes away, so it'd be easier if i didnt have to flush frequently. Perhaps every 2 weeks or longer is tolerable.
Pretty sure the RO will clear it all up though, pretty confident on that.
Yup, thanks guys. much love, keep the feedback rolling, loving it.
researchkitty
Well-Known Member
The RO water will help you be better able to determine the nutrient levels since RO water is close to 0 ppm. Its a smart move if your tap water sucks. (Mine is 40ppm tap water, very fortunate here, so no RO).
Remember when you change to RO water you MUST use a Calcium and Magnesium suppliment. Humboldts version of this is Sea Cal and Sea Mag. GH makes one called CalMag. It's about $40 a gallon give or take. If you dont do this with RO water, you will be very disappointed in your results.
As for reading the 0-8-16, this refers to the mL/gallon of nutrients. 0 of the grow, 8mL/G of micro, and 16mL/G of Bloom. You dont use the "grow" part because the micro and bloom have enough product, its just pointless.
So you'd fill your reservoir just like that above, and then for the stupid simple method, just add water every day or two. Your pH will go up a little with more water, so keep an eye on that. At the end of the week, add back nutrients to get the ppm back to 1400 ***AFTER*** you've topped off the reservoir again. (Never add nutrients BEFORE you add the water, as this will make your ppm wrong). You dont even need to empty your reservoir either. Ever, really. Clean it every 6 months if you want. Just keep H2O2 at 2mL/G every 3 days, and use FloraKleen once a month. The H2O2 will keep the roots nice and healthy and keep the system clean. With a nice clean nutrient program you'll hopefully see little to no buildup.
Does this help clarify it? If not, let us know!
thelotuseed
Member
\
It would seem so. Yes. Thank you. My mind is clear now. I'm sure that must mean you've attained some kind of positive karma. If it works like that...
I will probably have some more questions as time goes on but i think this clears up my immediate concerns. Would guys recommend following that Lucas's guys advice for most of my concerns?
Oh, are we still recommending i flood once a day when lights first turn on?
patlpp
New Member
The main phylosophy in Lucas IMO is ease of use and no REQUIRED use of sups. If you have extra hard water than he states to use Hard water Micro. Funny how Lucas is like some biblical reference or something.
morrisgreenberg
Well-Known Member
lucas formula is not a one size fits all, i never had succes with it, and i hate GH flora nutes aswell , i guess my strains didnt like the stuff, but as for flooding its about the size of plants at this point. but i can give u a personal reference from me, at first x-plant i give 2-3 15min floods per day(24hr light) after one week or until i start seeing a little root make it to the bottom i will give a flood every 4hrs for 15mins(please note that when running over 20 buckets a 15min flood is very little so more often wont hurt) by this time we should have the plants in at almost 2 weeks, this is when in this system they take off, increase feedings to every 3 hours for 15mins. the next progressions at 3 weeks in veg should have rapid foliage growth along with a nice root system going i give a flood every 3hrs for 30mins, this is the highest flood time i ever go and with the plants getting bigger along with a larger healthy root system enabling the plant to take up plenty of water and will be just fine with 30mins feedings
the tramp
Member
I agree morrisgreenberg. However IMHO, the main point of Lucas' "formula" is that it gets rid of alot of the guessing game (not all, but alot) of nute deficiencies, by putting the focus NOT on nutrients but on maintaining a good environment (i.e. temp, air, etc.). But as you said, some strains as I've found out don't like it in it's raw format. Though for a beginner or expert alike, it is a nice foundation to build off of; as far as understanding what a plant needs, seeing what it needs and giving it what it needs when it needs it. In fact, I like using it when I'm first growing an unfamiliar strain. It gives me (in my mind) a level playing field as far as determining what the specific strain wants more or less of. Looking back at my grow log, I often determine to try a different "formula" for future success. Though, it's probably just because I've gotten so familiar with it through the years.....and I'm lazy.
patlpp
New Member
I've found that I can use full blown Lucas ([email protected] conv) or have to back off to 800 depending on the strain. I may try Advanced GBM and use Lucas formula and try the same strains again and see what happens. I like the 3 part so I can use for other crops like cukes and such.
morrisgreenberg
Well-Known Member
the funny thing is i found my self recommending it a few posts back
hey i agree gotta read before seeing pics was verry chich n chongd i agree about flushing but the salt build up should only be on the top as were the heat evaporates the execcs water, were the roots are u shouldnt be letting them dry out down there to evaporate n leave a salt build up but yh tottaly need to read through before comment + only try to help i hope that table was a help
dtp5150
Well-Known Member
Problems!!!
This morning the ebb&grow will not fill up the buckets, or drain the buckets. I checked the pumps in a wall outlet, they both work. I hooked up small lamps to the timer sockets and there is never any current going to the plugs!
The fuse is OK. Any help guys?
This morning the ebb&grow will not fill up the buckets, or drain the buckets. I checked the pumps in a wall outlet, they both work. I hooked up small lamps to the timer sockets and there is never any current going to the plugs!
The fuse is OK. Any help guys?
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