newbie2010
Member
Well after looking at that thumbnail, I think I need you to come on over and help me out in person? Very organized.
Experienced Electrician! Here to Answer Any and All Growroom Electrical Questions
- Thread starter bricktown73
- Start date
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
yeah my apprentices think they know everything too...
your ampacity figures arent even right... #12 Cu has been rated for 30 amps for 2 codebooks now...
and here in the U.S. a common is the grounded conductor on a low voltage (60v or less) circuit.
for starters... you cant pull 15 amps on a #14. the breaker will trip. you can pull 1440 watts, @ 120v, ands thats about it.
and i dont know where you think you HAVE to have a 3 wire circuit to get 240v... maybe in a residential kitchen or laundry room (as required by NEC) the reason for that is modern appliances tap off of one leg of the 240v circuit to run the controls, as opposed to having a 240/120 powersupply that is a potential point of failure....
this is not my first ball game son. ive been doing this for a long time. so if you want to critique, do your homework first...
ps/ edit-
and as far as homework, telling that guy that a resisitive timer will work with an inductive load shows your lack of competence. quit while your ahead.
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
its chaeper to get a timer rated for inductive loads
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
Missing a piece. That 1000W is for the *bulb's* draw. It doesn't factor in the extra ~10% more for the ballast operation.
The CFL watt rating (used not equiv) is the draw from the wall. (bulb and ballast included)
SO 400W (true) of CFL uses less then 400W of HPS.
CFL = 400
HPS = ~450W
AquafinaOrbit
Well-Known Member
12g does 30amps for taps, or circuits at a different temperature rating but the circuit protection required for a 12awg is 20amps, see 240.4. Or we looking at 310-315?
same page shows 14awg as 15 amperes, and more importantly a fuse works on heat so there is not magically number it just trips at its based on a time/heat factor.
Common is the grounded, meaning its not the grounding conductor but its connected to a ground. AKA the neutral.
And yeah actually the NEC is exactly why I think a three conductor is required for 240. I know a neutral is not required(that would make it a 4 prong), but two hots and a ground are as its 120 per pole so yeah a 12/2 could work, if its 12/2 with ground which wasn't required in older houses. Still your right here, I should of specified more. Honestly not really sure how I even missed posting that but guess thats what you get trying to think while high
Haha, sorry you take so much offense to online stuff but this isn't a ball game. Its a thread trying to help people with their hobby/job.
Can't argue much with this as I only know what I've learned verbally which obviously would mean nothing to you. But the reason people say not to use resistive on inductive loads is primarily for the start-up power required to charge the magnets, but at the .8power factor or even far less then that a resistive timer of 10amps could easily handle 70watts. My 600watt is controller by a resistive 15amp but alas its electronic so its startup pull, kickback, and lag are not a concern. Your right though inductive are cheap and lowes should have a suitable one for sprinklers or whatever.
Oh and no I don't think I know everything, don't even work in that field. So more then happy to learn, but your ego seems to be your main concern here. But the day I know everything about electricity is gonna be a bad day for electricians because that would mean its become so basic anyone could do it
BigBudBalls
Yeah that doesn't factor in the ballast operations, but thats because I don't know the efficiency of his ballast. Thats just a simple example I gave not a solution to his problem.
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
the amperage/wattage/demand factor doesnt have a thing to do with it...
its the nature of the inductive load.
the inrush of an inductive load will create an arc as the points on the relay contacts close. this arc, over time, creates pitting on the contact points of the relay. this pitting,. decreases the conductivity of the relay contacts, which in turns causes the relay to heat up, this heat causes the armature of the relay to expand and become caught in a bind, in whatever position the relay was last used, which 99% of the time is the active state.
an inductive rated relay's internal parts are of a different alloy, which is less thermally reactive and more resistant to pitting. an inductive rated relay also is spring loaded, just like a saftey switch, for the same reason, arc suppression.
sorry if i came on harsh im just used to some hack trying to tell me about stuff i get paid to design, lol. so i owe you an apology for that.
Covert Ops
Well-Known Member
Quick question...is ther any way i can hook a pc fan AND cfl to the same cord? atm i have a pc fan hooked up to a phone charger plug, so it acts as a transformer or something, but is ther any way i could wire that to the mains plug that is attatched to the CFL? Just to keep the wires minimal and free up some plug space!
Any help is much appreciated!
Any help is much appreciated!
InvestInMe
Well-Known Member
I got a question ,,,
I can I make a speed controller jsut leik the ones you buy for an inline fan ? I want a controller that I can wire together and jsut plug my inline fan right in it , So I dont void the warenty on my inline fan ...
any links or picts would be greatly appreaciated Thanks
I can I make a speed controller jsut leik the ones you buy for an inline fan ? I want a controller that I can wire together and jsut plug my inline fan right in it , So I dont void the warenty on my inline fan ...
any links or picts would be greatly appreaciated Thanks
Hi all hope your well, Can anyone help me with something, id really appreciate it.
I just brought a RUCK 125 extraction fan and want to control the speed of it, I have orded a ''POWER REGULATOR, ELECTRIC SPEED CONTROLLER (Variac)'' from fleabay with this tech spec:
regulates incandescent lamps, heaters, hand drills, motors etc. via a potentiometer
Max. admissible current: 6A (constant duty: 3A), at 110V~ this corresponds to maximally 600 watt or constant duty 300 watt, respectively, or to maximally 1200 watt or constant duty 600 watt, respectively, at 230Vac
Duty cycle: 100% at 3A or 20% (max. 3 min.) at 6A, respectively
On the ruck specification sheet it says it runs at 0.3 Amps (60 watts) Will the controller be able to run this at 0.1Amps or will it send 3Amps strait away as it says 3amps respectivly?
Sorry for the long post and lots of questions im quite new and dont want to brake things :\
Thanks
I just brought a RUCK 125 extraction fan and want to control the speed of it, I have orded a ''POWER REGULATOR, ELECTRIC SPEED CONTROLLER (Variac)'' from fleabay with this tech spec:
regulates incandescent lamps, heaters, hand drills, motors etc. via a potentiometer
Max. admissible current: 6A (constant duty: 3A), at 110V~ this corresponds to maximally 600 watt or constant duty 300 watt, respectively, or to maximally 1200 watt or constant duty 600 watt, respectively, at 230Vac
Duty cycle: 100% at 3A or 20% (max. 3 min.) at 6A, respectively
Control: via a firmly connected rotary potentiometer''
On the ruck specification sheet it says it runs at 0.3 Amps (60 watts) Will the controller be able to run this at 0.1Amps or will it send 3Amps strait away as it says 3amps respectivly?
Sorry for the long post and lots of questions im quite new and dont want to brake things :\
Thanks
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
no, it will simply limit the available current to the motor.
the 3 amps is the maximum allowable current for the controller to be used in a continuous duty cycle. in plain english, that means any device up to 3 amps can be used 24/7... anything greater than 3 amps but less than 6 amps can be used for up to 4.8 hours, after that, the device will overheat and fail...
so no fans that pull more than 3 amps
the 3 amps is the maximum allowable current for the controller to be used in a continuous duty cycle. in plain english, that means any device up to 3 amps can be used 24/7... anything greater than 3 amps but less than 6 amps can be used for up to 4.8 hours, after that, the device will overheat and fail...
so no fans that pull more than 3 amps
laughingduck
Well-Known Member
Hply crap guys, I am an electrical inspector and you guys make my head hurt. lmao
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
lol no shit.......
patlpp
New Member
This is nothing... there are posts recommending to stoners who haven't the least lick of sense, busting open breaker boxes and/or tapping into one side of 220 lines. It's getting as dangerous as meth labs.... for fucks sake.
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
ya i know. i help the ones out that seem to have sense... and talk the ones that have no clue through the proper steps to determine if they need a pro or not. i run another electrical thread as well, and i periodically check on this one since the OP abandoned it.
laughingduck
Well-Known Member
I wish there was maybe a post that showed basic schematics, but the range in this hobby goes from basic household wiring to industrial controls. makes for a pretty broad band of learning. The problem with learning on the job with this stuff is sometimes you don't get a second chance.
IamStoned: I am an industrial/ construction inspector, I make sure the contractors do it right the first time. If the county has to come twice I am looking for another job. It is a little stressful at times dealing with sparkies, and you'd be supprised at the dumb ass mistakes that even master electricians make.
IamStoned: I am an industrial/ construction inspector, I make sure the contractors do it right the first time. If the county has to come twice I am looking for another job. It is a little stressful at times dealing with sparkies, and you'd be supprised at the dumb ass mistakes that even master electricians make.
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
i wouldnt be surprised at all, I know ive made a few along the way. the learning curve is pretty steep. in my case i was always fortunate to be around some of the most experienced guys in the trade, but once i let myself get sucked into a live 277/460 panel during a heavy wire pull, and my right hand went from b to c, you should the scar i have on my hand to this day from it. it could have been much worse, but i was lucky. still got 10 digits...
some of the things ive seen other guys do though lol-
use a knockout set to punch holes through structural steel framing to run conduit
fail to bond the neutral on transformers on an industrial 2000 amp service, then walk away for 20 years. when the building was acqured by a new owner, and divided in half into 2 tenant spaces, when one tenant added an additional 2000 amp service, it took quite a min to figure out why the 'new' system ground would arc off of the building steel. i still remember a helper yelling wtf the ground is hot!!!!
install emergency lights on switched circuits
run 2 200 foot conduits from a panel underground to a parking lot, only to tie them together underground, so that there is a 400' loop with 4 90"s in it
run 1 3/4" series conduit from each box to the next for over 300 ada fire alarm devices (pipe in the slab)
fill a 200amp panel with 20amp tandem breakers and max every circuit (42 space panel, thats 84 20 amp circuits)
just a few... ive got hundreds
some of the things ive seen other guys do though lol-
use a knockout set to punch holes through structural steel framing to run conduit
fail to bond the neutral on transformers on an industrial 2000 amp service, then walk away for 20 years. when the building was acqured by a new owner, and divided in half into 2 tenant spaces, when one tenant added an additional 2000 amp service, it took quite a min to figure out why the 'new' system ground would arc off of the building steel. i still remember a helper yelling wtf the ground is hot!!!!
install emergency lights on switched circuits
run 2 200 foot conduits from a panel underground to a parking lot, only to tie them together underground, so that there is a 400' loop with 4 90"s in it
run 1 3/4" series conduit from each box to the next for over 300 ada fire alarm devices (pipe in the slab)
fill a 200amp panel with 20amp tandem breakers and max every circuit (42 space panel, thats 84 20 amp circuits)
just a few... ive got hundreds