Stoney McFried
Well-Known Member
This is a large thread, so if this was asked before, 1000 apologies. 
Al,how do YOU prefer to store seeds for the long term?
Al,how do YOU prefer to store seeds for the long term?
We're all fuct now
- Thread starter Al B. Fuct
- Start date
streetlegal
Well-Known Member
Al, howdy.. any idea what this is?
I have mothers in coco of various strains and ages up to 2 months old using canna coco a+b,
It was mainly on the bigger older fan leaves but now its affecting most except new smaller fan leaves
Its basically blotchy rusting BETWEEN the leaf veins, not quiet as concentrated as the pic (the pic isnt mine) but its really basically the same..
i foliar sprayed with epsom salt about a week ago but it seems to be getting worse.. its not affecting all the plants and one worse then others, thanks moyt
I have mothers in coco of various strains and ages up to 2 months old using canna coco a+b,
It was mainly on the bigger older fan leaves but now its affecting most except new smaller fan leaves
Its basically blotchy rusting BETWEEN the leaf veins, not quiet as concentrated as the pic (the pic isnt mine) but its really basically the same..
i foliar sprayed with epsom salt about a week ago but it seems to be getting worse.. its not affecting all the plants and one worse then others, thanks moyt
Sub Zero
Well-Known Member
Thanks Al, I'll just finish what I have going and start fresh with the next grow...
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Yep, that consistency would be down to the ability to control pathogens at will with H2O2 (as well as introduce O2 in the rootmass) and the highly predictable (and measurable) nature of the available nutrient strength with inorganic nutes.
A dark, dry, cool (10-23C) place. A household fridge isn't ideal because they run at about 5C, where moisture in the air around the beans can condense on the inside of the container.This is a large thread, so if this was asked before, 1000 apologies.
It presents as a Mg deficiency, but if you've fed the plant with any decent fertiliser, it won't be due to absence of Mg.
I'd guess the pH has been shot low, causing a Mg lockout.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
That's what I'd do.Thanks Al, I'll just finish what I have going and start fresh with the next grow...
Heh, good to see you Geeb- & HNY to you too.Hi Al..
Just wanted to stop by and say hello...
Happy New Year!!!
Keep it Fuct!!!
streetlegal
Well-Known Member
Thanks Al, ill up the pH on the next water..
ah if u charged for ur info Al u wouldnt need to grow anymore..
off to bed, nite.
Edit: I just calibrated my pH pen, it came up 7.3, .3 over.. i have been lockin out mg without a doubt! thanks for telling ME about it Al, thumbs up.
ah if u charged for ur info Al u wouldnt need to grow anymore..
off to bed, nite.
Edit: I just calibrated my pH pen, it came up 7.3, .3 over.. i have been lockin out mg without a doubt! thanks for telling ME about it Al, thumbs up.
DarkCursade
Active Member
Okay this is SOOO true man, here is my cry for the day!!!
When I first started out growing cherries!!! I came and I read an old school book, pages of info on the web, and to be honest... Most of it was just b/s besides some of the basic simple facts ie:
-plants need water
-plants need light
-plants need food
-plants need a safe growing environment
Everything else is just facts that have been put in place to help promote more of an ideal growing conditions too of course promote better Cherries or whatever kind of fruit you may be growing.
Then you have IDEA'S which have been told by 1 person to the nexted, then some great spark puts that idea in a book or better still youtube, only for newbie growers to read/see, to then put into practice.
I only ever take note from people who grow and can back it up with good results!!!
Here are some well be known facts that have found to be untrue in my own experience!!!
1. IMO 1x1000w is so much better than a 2x600w
you know the light of a 1000w is intense cause it burns your eyes when starring at the bulb which i like to do, 600w light = no eye burn!!!!....you would have to compare them in 2 tents of exact size to see the difference OMG!!!
2. I have read/and was told by my local hydro store the heat from a 1000w is heaps more than 600w "WTF maybe in a small wardrobe or suit case", but when running 2x600ws theres heaps more heat when you include the ballasts.... LOOK IM JUST ANGRY CAUSE I PAID 4 two 600ws when should have got 2x1000W
These are compared when using cooltubes!!!
3. IMO Also there is no such thing as root bound, I have a flowering cherry plant in a pot about 1 foot tall, and the plant is 5 foot tall, I have also started seeds out in white plastic cups and grown them about 40-50cms high with no signs of growth stopping!!! Also check this https://www.rollitup.org/outdoor-growing/24703-its-all-bullsh-t-14.html as further proof!!!
4. Never believe a hooker if she tells you shes clean, shes not!!! she is lying, dont make my same mistake....
NO but seriously Im very cut about spending the money on the 600ws!!!
doogleef
Well-Known Member
Better living through chemistry.
However, I have to advise against this method.
Your nute meter tells you about the electrical conductivity (EC) of a solution based upon total dissolved salts/solids (TDS). It can't tell you how much N, P or K individually exist in the solution.
If you run a tank of nutes for a while, your plants will eat a certain amount of each nutrient- but they won't eat the same amount of each. Let's propose that the nute maker intends a mixed tank of nutes at the correct strength, say 1000ppm, to be NPK 10-15-10. Over a certain period of time, let's say 2 weeks, the plants will consume (for discussion's sake) 60% of the N, 50% of the P and 80% of the K. The ratio is then 4-7.5-2.
If you add nutrient concentrate to this partially eaten tank to return the EC to 1000ppm, you're not going to wind up with 10-15-10. Your EC/TDS meter will tell you that your solution has the right 1000ppm conductivity, but the actual NPK ratios are completely unknown to you.
If you had a meter that could identify the individual amounts of N, P & K remaining in the nute soln AND you had individual jugs of liquid N, P & K, you could feasibly correct the remnant nute solution back to 10-15-10 at 1000ppm- but you have neither (unless the meter you're using happens to be a several-hundred thousand dollar lab standard mass spectrometer, which IS capable of identifying and quantifying individual elements dissolved in a solution).
Given the best tool we have in a common hydro op for measuring nute strength is a TDS meter, the best way to manage nute solns is to run them for about 2 weeks, dump and mix completely new sauce.
If you provide about 5L of rez tank volume per plant, the EC of the soln (in ppm) will remain fairly constant, even as the level of the soln drops (from both evaporation and plants' water usage).
Yea, as my water level drops my ppm stays nice and flat at about 1000 @.5 . I've had pretty good luck with it but the blend has to be right and the uptake on the system has to be really healthy. If you're not adding back at least 75% of the water volume when doing this then there is too much of the original soup with its inherent imbalance in the new mix.
Generally every couple weeks i addback 35 gallons of water and the compliment of nutes and let it ride 2 more weeks.
I also run perpetual (inspired by U
) so on my 24 site flooding bucket system I run 4 stages of flowersing growth all on the same rez. Crazy, huh?
Thank you greatly, kind sirkewl.
wow, you remember more than I do. Fuct if I know where I wrote that!
I can tell you off the cuff that I water clones 2x daily at 12h intervals, takes 5-10 mins.
I only look in on the flowering and vegging areas every 2-3 days, also 5-10 mins for routine checks, just to make sure the watering systems haven't crapped out and to squirt about 125ml of 50% H2O2 into each of the 125L flowering tanks and 50ml into the 50L mother plant tank.
Every 2 weeks, I get busy as hell for about 3 days. There's a harvest, which takes about 2x 12h days of nose to the grindstone manicuring. When I'm done manicuring, the clones which have set root get potted up and chucked in the flowering area, about an hour to pack 23 pots with rockwool & Fytocell. Then, I'll do a batch of 30 cuttings, about an hour or so. Last of the biweekly tasks is dumping tanks and mixing up new batches of sauce.
Lather, rinse, repeat.
Just a quick point to clarify - so you only check your vegging/flowering plants every 2-3 days, for 10-15 minutes?
Or you do 10-15 minutes a day, and every 2-3 days you spend more time in there?
Just trying to plan out my time in case I'll be expanding..........I generally spend about 3-5 minutes a day just to check that everything's running okay and take pH and TDS readings, and was wondering how that compared.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Yep, that would have put your actual pH at 5.5 if you were shooting for 5.8. You've found the cause of your stunted growth, for sure.
I'd be cheesed, too. Cooltubes allow a 1000 to be placed as close as a 600 and they also dump all the lamp heat outside the room.
Ballasts should always be outside the room airspace, unless you need the heat in the room over winter. However, the extra expense of running 4x600 vs 2x1000 due to ballast losses is something you won't be able to escape.
Not so. It's true that the rootmass of plants which are introduced as just-rooted clones to the flowering area will rarely fully fill a 175mm dia pot by the end of wk8, but mother plants, kept too long (more than abt 12 wks), definitely will get rootbound- and it can kill the plant in worst cases, as an excessively tightly packed rootmass will restrict nute soln circ throughout the mass.
EC will stay flat as the water level drops if there's sufficient rez tank volume for the number of plants you're running. 5L/plant works well.
I'd still disadvise against this method. You're not saving any money by keeping 1/4 tank of old sauce and you're not getting the NPK ratio that the nute maker intends. Dump it all, clean the tanks as needed and start fresh every 2 wks.No guesswork.
Yep, you can run all plants on a single tank, but in tray-based flood systems, 4 separate tanks fit under the trays, saving floorspace. Also, with 4 pumps, you're spreading out the potential damage caused by failure of a pump. Pretty unlikely that all 4 would croak at once, but cheap centrifugal water pumps do fail fairly regularly. They die after about 12-18mos, sometimes sooner.I also run perpetual (inspired by U
no wucking furries.Thank you greatly, kind sir
The former.
You guys think I'm kidding when I say I'm a stoned slacker. I seriously don't like to work and the noobie enthusiasm for running a grow op wore off of me yeeeeears ago. When I was new at it, I'd check in a few times a day! Madness.
smokingrubber
Well-Known Member
Glad to have you around Al. We need the wisdom. +rep
DarkCursade
Active Member
Hey Al B, Just wondering what your thoughts are on a res tank, Im finding it runs for a about a week, then its only 1/4 full...
160L tank filling a 1100mmx1100mm I flood once a day sometimes twice.
I live in Qld, its berry, berry hot here on most days...
Anyways I lose alot of water through evaporation I think, do you think I should just top up with water, or do you think I should just make a new batch every week like I have been, its just that Im going threw the nutes fast, even though I always use the minimum amount its says on the canna bottle 2.5ml-3.5ml per Litre, Id use 2.5ml.
Also I started to use an A/C however its costs shit loads to run even at 15 mins per hour, and I noticed it sent my RH threw the roof reaching 91%, when I dont use my A/C Im finding that my room reach temp 35 deg and RH no higher than 67, am I going to have to get a dehumidifier instead? Im just trying to cut back on power usage, Im mega scared of using too much power????
Also you got any thoughts on how much is too much power to use, I got a 6 bedroom house and a fluffy dog?
In regards to the root bound comment I made, I am wonder how I am to grow such tall big plants In small pots, when will these flowering plants be root bound how am I to tell they are in week4 in flowering? I put the coke cans & 2L cokes in there for size reference damm I like coke yummy...
I like many people am trying to replicate something like your op, but I like to try new stuff/different stuff "Im like that cat that died from curiosity" here is 3 of my cherry plant, normally I only have flowering plants 50cm tall. Plenty of popcorn cherries here?
160L tank filling a 1100mmx1100mm I flood once a day sometimes twice.
I live in Qld, its berry, berry hot here on most days...
Anyways I lose alot of water through evaporation I think, do you think I should just top up with water, or do you think I should just make a new batch every week like I have been, its just that Im going threw the nutes fast, even though I always use the minimum amount its says on the canna bottle 2.5ml-3.5ml per Litre, Id use 2.5ml.
Also I started to use an A/C however its costs shit loads to run even at 15 mins per hour, and I noticed it sent my RH threw the roof reaching 91%, when I dont use my A/C Im finding that my room reach temp 35 deg and RH no higher than 67, am I going to have to get a dehumidifier instead? Im just trying to cut back on power usage, Im mega scared of using too much power????
Also you got any thoughts on how much is too much power to use, I got a 6 bedroom house and a fluffy dog?
In regards to the root bound comment I made, I am wonder how I am to grow such tall big plants In small pots, when will these flowering plants be root bound how am I to tell they are in week4 in flowering? I put the coke cans & 2L cokes in there for size reference damm I like coke yummy...
I like many people am trying to replicate something like your op, but I like to try new stuff/different stuff "Im like that cat that died from curiosity" here is 3 of my cherry plant, normally I only have flowering plants 50cm tall. Plenty of popcorn cherries here?
Attachments
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Thanks.
How many plants are you running? You should have enough rez capacity to provide 5L per plant.
Yep, you can expect a lot of evaporation at the temps you're talking about- got to get the temps down to 26C, 27 on the high and outside- but not for the sake of reducing evaporation. At 30C, the plants will bolt (stretch). The internodal spaces will be huge- much like the pic you show. You'll also get thin, weedy buds.I live in Qld, its berry, berry hot here on most days...
Anyways I lose alot of water through evaporation I think, do you think I should just top up with water, or do you think I should just make a new batch every week like I have been, its just that Im going threw the nutes fast, even though I always use the minimum amount its says on the canna bottle 2.5ml-3.5ml per Litre, Id use 2.5ml.
Also I started to use an A/C however its costs shit loads to run even at 15 mins per hour, and I noticed it sent my RH threw the roof reaching 91%, when I dont use my A/C Im finding that my room reach temp 35 deg and RH no higher than 67, am I going to have to get a dehumidifier instead? Im just trying to cut back on power usage, Im mega scared of using too much power????
Running the aircon unit 15min/hr (on a timer?) just won't work. Your temps will spike and so will RH when the aircon is off for the other 45min/hr. It has to rely on thermostatic control.
Instead of running aircon, run your lights at night and provide enough ventilation so that your room air temps are within a degree C or two of the intake air temp.
I run 2x1000HPS 12/12 for flowering and 1x400HPS 24/0 for mums, also about 150W worth of fluoros in the clonebox, no aircon. Never had any problems with that level of power usage.
If you are running a SoG op, where clones are put in to flower immediately after they set root (with no vegging, before flowering aside from the 18+h/day fluoro light they should be getting while they are setting root), with decent HPS lighting (about 50W/sq ft of HPS for flowering) they should finish up at about 1m tall (from the media tops). They should be at or very close to their finishing height in wk4 of flowering.
Bit of advice- don't try 'new stuff.' Find a competent grower on this or another pot board and copy their op to the letter. Tried and true will get you good results- and that's what you're after, not re-inventing the wheel.
Your plants are suffering stretch from excessively high temps. The internodal spaces are huge, 3-4x what they should be. If you keep going the way you are, your buds will be thin and weedy, too.here is 3 of my cherry plant, normally I only have flowering plants 50cm tall. Plenty of popcorn cherries here?
You have to get your air temps down. The most cost effective way to do this is to move more air though the op. Get your intake air from outdoors if possible and dump the exhaust somewhere where it cannot be readily redrawn into the op. If the temp of the air you have available to draw in is higher than 26-27C, aircon is your only alternative. If you have a grunty enough aircon unit, it'll bring the air temps down to 24-26C and the RH should be no higher than about 50-60%.
aaaaaaaaaand with that, I'm outta here for a couple of weeks. Got to get back to my reg'lar work.
Thanks for taking the time, good sir - hope your 2010 works out well for you in the interim.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
oh- one quick note for DarkCursade; your op will tolerate higher than 26C (up to abt 30C) without problems if you run CO2 @ 1500ppm. However, the setup for a proper CO2 application system is EFFING exxy, between the tank rental, refills and a proper controller- couple thou to set it up, anyway.
As said previously, the cheapest way to address the problem is to increase the ventilation airflow thru the op.
Cooltubes on the lamps, on a closed air circuit (draws lamp cooling air from outside the op and also dumps it outside, independent of the ventilation system), will get the vast majority of the heat from the lamps out of the room before it has a chance to warm up the air in contact with the plants.
NOW I'm back to the grind...
As said previously, the cheapest way to address the problem is to increase the ventilation airflow thru the op.
Cooltubes on the lamps, on a closed air circuit (draws lamp cooling air from outside the op and also dumps it outside, independent of the ventilation system), will get the vast majority of the heat from the lamps out of the room before it has a chance to warm up the air in contact with the plants.
NOW I'm back to the grind...
hey al you still running the sweet tooth #4? spice of life no longer stocks that, but they have something callled donk and i was wondering if youve heard of it? im looking for a max yield with at least decent quality to run in your style op. your suggestion would be much appreciated.
DarkCursade
Active Member
Hey Alb,
thanks for all those pointers, I pretty much take what u say as gospel so dont start B/S me otherwise Ill really get confused
Im trying to copying your grow to the letter, however Im trying some stuff as side project, after all clones are practically free, and I got a bit of space... The rest of my flowering plants are only 50cm tall as I have had not much material to work with, my clones go straight into flowering, I have read your get a harvest every 2 weeks thread, I understand everything you say, its only about 5 pages long if you skip all the noob questions.
okay I know you have said you dont want to set up anyones grow op for them, but I would really appreciate any more help you can give me to help me battle my heat issue Im going to layout it all out for you so you can advise me on my heat issue.
My Gear:
4 x trays
1 x 1000w hps
2 x 600w hps
3 x cool tubes
will be getting avenger wings in the future
2 x 1.5Wx3Lx2H mylar tents," wishing I didnt buy these as they are hard to move in as my room is cramped"
Allvent inline Duct fan 250mm
Allvent inline Duct fan 200mm
Allvent inline Duct fan 150mm "I use this on the 2x600w"
2 x Westaflex centrifugal inline fan 200mm claims 200L/sec
Here is my "Auto Cad drawing to scale"
The room on the right I want to ditched the tents and it just be just a flower room, I hate the thought of Light leaks. And I was thinking about using 1 of the tents in the room on the left as my veg room, plus I got the clones already set up in that room in the wardrobe. The room on the right has been wired and can handle 20 amps, the room on the left unsure, but I have ran in the past 2x600ws there no problems.
The both exhausts are connected to the cooltubes and have ducting up threw the ceiling roof.
My temp inside the tent is 35c deg, and outside the room air temp is 29c
When both the exhaust fans are running, I feel pressure trying to close the room door, I think thats called negative pressure. And If I stand inside the room with the door shut I can feel the air being drawn in under the door on my feet. Im was unsure if its better to keep the door open or closed for this purpose?
Id dont mind spending the cash on more gear if I need it, but my local hydro shop, are cunts, they literally say anything and everything just to get a sale. Also there advise to me was to stay away from cooltubes as they dont do much for heat, need I say anymore about them!!!!
I want to end up running 1x600w for veg, and 2x1000 for flowering.
Any more advice you could throw my way in regards to heat would be great, also Id rather stay away from CO2.
Thanks Mate for all your help...
thanks for all those pointers, I pretty much take what u say as gospel so dont start B/S me otherwise Ill really get confused
Im trying to copying your grow to the letter, however Im trying some stuff as side project, after all clones are practically free, and I got a bit of space... The rest of my flowering plants are only 50cm tall as I have had not much material to work with, my clones go straight into flowering, I have read your get a harvest every 2 weeks thread, I understand everything you say, its only about 5 pages long if you skip all the noob questions.
okay I know you have said you dont want to set up anyones grow op for them, but I would really appreciate any more help you can give me to help me battle my heat issue Im going to layout it all out for you so you can advise me on my heat issue.
My Gear:
4 x trays
1 x 1000w hps
2 x 600w hps
3 x cool tubes
will be getting avenger wings in the future
2 x 1.5Wx3Lx2H mylar tents," wishing I didnt buy these as they are hard to move in as my room is cramped"
Allvent inline Duct fan 250mm
Allvent inline Duct fan 200mm
Allvent inline Duct fan 150mm "I use this on the 2x600w"
2 x Westaflex centrifugal inline fan 200mm claims 200L/sec
Here is my "Auto Cad drawing to scale"
The room on the right I want to ditched the tents and it just be just a flower room, I hate the thought of Light leaks. And I was thinking about using 1 of the tents in the room on the left as my veg room, plus I got the clones already set up in that room in the wardrobe. The room on the right has been wired and can handle 20 amps, the room on the left unsure, but I have ran in the past 2x600ws there no problems.
The both exhausts are connected to the cooltubes and have ducting up threw the ceiling roof.
My temp inside the tent is 35c deg, and outside the room air temp is 29c
When both the exhaust fans are running, I feel pressure trying to close the room door, I think thats called negative pressure. And If I stand inside the room with the door shut I can feel the air being drawn in under the door on my feet. Im was unsure if its better to keep the door open or closed for this purpose?
Id dont mind spending the cash on more gear if I need it, but my local hydro shop, are cunts, they literally say anything and everything just to get a sale. Also there advise to me was to stay away from cooltubes as they dont do much for heat, need I say anymore about them!!!!
I want to end up running 1x600w for veg, and 2x1000 for flowering.
Any more advice you could throw my way in regards to heat would be great, also Id rather stay away from CO2.
Thanks Mate for all your help...
