Shnkrmn's Pickle Bucket Hempy Grow 2009

DaGambler

Well-Known Member
Ja, no such thing as 'too much light'... many "tree" growers are running more lights than they have plants in vertical setups, ie; 10k HPS to only 10 plants or less.

The run-off that you are checking is deffinitely a good idea... but it's still got to be hard to perfectly gage the conditions in the root zone. I'd shoot for 5.9 pH to start with on both the incoming and the outgoing... also i'd recommend flushing the pots if possible with RO water. Then feeding with at least 600-800 ppm. I'd guess that you have a fert. buildup that is making it difficult for the plants to uptake the nutes they need. That's the biggest problem with hempy in my opinion ... every container ends up having a different pH and fert. concentration... some plants use ferts faster because they are healthier, etc. others not so much and ferts are left behind until they are over-abundant and problematic. I'd say ebb 'n flow would be a step up from hempy in having greater control over root zone conditions. Though i'm currently transitioning from a perlite ebb 'n flow to a lava DWC setup myself between this harvest and next.

Hope something clicks for you man... nothing worse than watching plants stall during the time in which they should be putting on flowers most heavily. When they fail to do so, as they should, its like they trigger a 'suicide switch' and just say, "fug it, were not getting what we neeed, lets just finish up as fast as we can". :wall:

Peace, DaGambler
.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Ja, no such thing as 'too much light'...
Until you start bleaching out the leaf's chlorophyll.

many "tree" growers are running more lights than they have plants in vertical setups, ie; 10k HPS to only 10 plants or less.
Based on what parameters, type of hood and all the factors that play into what a plant actually receives such as distance between plants and hood? I don't know of any growers that are pissin' off that much watts. If you can't grow 4 or so very high yielding, large plants with ONE 600W HPS, then you need to rethink your program.
 

shnkrmn

Well-Known Member
Thanks Gambler and Uncle Ben. I've just fed them at 800 ppm. Quite a bit of N. We will see. I DID cut my perlite with 20% vermiculite for this batch of plants, now I'm wondering why. Didn't show any problems in veg, but I wonder if that changed things enough to bring me these problems now in flower.

At any rate, that is the last batch of hempy buckets i'm growing. I have 3 good mothers in buckets that I'm keeping and today I bought an Ebb n Grow 12 pot system. So, adios hempy. Any comments on whether I should fill the ebb n grow buckets with grow rocks or coco?

I'd shoot for 5.9 pH to start with on both the incoming and the outgoing... also i'd recommend flushing the pots if possible with RO water. Then feeding with at least 600-800 ppm. I'd guess that you have a fert. buildup that is making it difficult for the plants to uptake the nutes they need. That's the biggest problem with hempy in my opinion ... every container ends up having a different pH and fert. concentration... some plants use ferts faster because they are healthier, etc. others not so much and ferts are left behind until they are over-abundant and problematic. I'd say ebb 'n flow would be a step up from hempy in having greater control over root zone conditions. Though i'm currently transitioning from a perlite ebb 'n flow to a lava DWC setup myself between this harvest and next.

Hope something clicks for you man... nothing worse than watching plants stall during the time in which they should be putting on flowers most heavily. When they fail to do so, as they should, its like they trigger a 'suicide switch' and just say, "fug it, were not getting what we neeed, lets just finish up as fast as we can". :wall:

Peace, DaGambler
.
Until you start bleaching out the leaf's chlorophyll.

Based on what parameters, type of hood and all the factors that play into what a plant actually receives such as distance between plants and hood? I don't know of any growers that are pissin' off that much watts. If you can't grow 4 or so very high yielding, large plants with ONE 600W HPS, then you need to rethink your program.
Well, I've got 3.3 plants per light. Anyway, your painfully frank assessment is welcome. Thanks, again.
 

shnkrmn

Well-Known Member
That's what I thought. That's not alot of N, that is alot of K and the reason why you're dropping leaves.
As I typed the numbers I knew you were going to say that. So how is it that so many people grow with this shit? The pretty colors on the label I guess.

I can go to a hydro store today. What can I get that will finish these off and can be used going forward? I bought a CAP ebb and grow system, so I'm going to straight hydro. They have dyna-gro grow (7-9-5) and bloom (3-12-6). I believe you have written approvingly of this company's formulations. Dyna-gro also has a 9-3-6 but that's not readily available to me unless I order it.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
As I typed the numbers I knew you were going to say that. So how is it that so many people grow with this shit?
"Because everyone does it". They allow themselves to be manipulated by a bunch of con men dressed up as "horticulturists"? Pretty labels? Folks don't do their homework regarding plant nutrition, nutrient antagonism? Take your pick.

Why is it that I can't find a product analysis from these jerk offs? http://www.foxfarmfertilizer.com/products_liqfert2.html

I can go to a hydro store today. What can I get that will finish these off and can be used going forward? I bought a CAP ebb and grow system, so I'm going to straight hydro. They have dyna-gro grow (7-9-5) and bloom (3-12-6). I believe you have written approvingly of this company's formulations. Dyna-gro also has a 9-3-6 but that's not readily available to me unless I order it.
Seems to me if you want to reverse the trend of losing leaves, then you have to take care of them. It's quite obvious (at least it is to me) that your plants have been deprived of N by being given too much K. They have that stunted look, the leafsets are small, they are yellow.....typical symptoms of a N deficiency. Since you don't wish to order, I guess you could try the 7-9-5.

Good luck,
UB
 

shnkrmn

Well-Known Member
Okay, so say I 'wish to order'.

would the 9-3-6 foliage pro be your pick? Or is there a product with lower K that would better address my N deficiency?

For the record, I haven't experienced any leaf drop yet. If anything I see some improvement in growth and bud formation is progressing. Also, the buckets are noticeably lighter, so they are actively drinking as they should be at this stage so I know I have roots:-o.

"Because everyone does it". They allow themselves to be manipulated by a bunch of con men dressed up as "horticulturists"? Pretty labels? Folks don't do their homework regarding plant nutrition, nutrient antagonism? Take your pick.

Why is it that I can't find a product analysis from these jerk offs? http://www.foxfarmfertilizer.com/products_liqfert2.html

Seems to me if you want to reverse the trend of losing leaves, then you have to take care of them. It's quite obvious (at least it is to me) that your plants have been deprived of N by being given too much K. They have that stunted look, the leafsets are small, they are yellow.....typical symptoms of a N deficiency. Since you don't wish to order, I guess you could try the 7-9-5.

Good luck,
UB
 

shnkrmn

Well-Known Member
Here's this morning:





Like I said, no leaves dropping, buds forming. 7 plants still have that leaf staining, but they are not as rumpled looking. They are still not right, I know.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
The last feed was 400 ppm Tiger Bloom and 400 ppm Grow Big Hydro.
There's your problem. AS USUAL, it's not enough N. See the stunted look to the leaves? It's because they aren't getting enough N. Plant don't produce because of "bloom" foods, they produce because of a large mass of large solar collectors, leaves.
 

shnkrmn

Well-Known Member
There's your problem. AS USUAL, it's not enough N. See the stunted look to the leaves? It's because they aren't getting enough N. Plant don't produce because of "bloom" foods, they produce because of a large mass of large solar collectors, leaves.

I think that's been established.:lol:

The fix apparently doesn't lie in any of the various bottles I have. Uncle Ben, you haven't responded to my request for a recommendation if I were to order something not locally available; Foliage Pro, yes? No? I will be watering in a day or two and I would really like to make the girls happy.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
I think that's been established.:lol:

The fix apparently doesn't lie in any of the various bottles I have. Uncle Ben, you haven't responded to my request for a recommendation if I were to order something not locally available; Foliage Pro, yes? No? I will be watering in a day or two and I would really like to make the girls happy.
I would order the Foliage Pro. If you want a quick N fix, albeit ammonical, you can use a little ammonium sulfate, nitrate would be even better. There's a 33-0-0 product called UAN, but I don't think it's offered in small quantities.
 

shnkrmn

Well-Known Member
I would order the Foliage Pro. If you want a quick N fix, albeit ammonical, you can use a little ammonium sulfate, nitrate would be even better. There's a 33-0-0 product called UAN, but I don't think it's offered in small quantities.
Thanks for getting back to me. I might be able to get hold of that before I water next. I do want a quick fix, but I think my current timeline can accomodate a few days to wait for product.

Thanks again for your advice.
 

Earl

Well-Known Member
The last feed was 400 ppm Tiger Bloom and 400 ppm Grow Big Hydro.
So your total nute load was 800 ?

I think you might do better with 600ppm bloom nutes and 200 booster.

I am running about 400 bloom nutes, & 100ppm hammerhead (0-9-18)
and that will push the sunleaves off in about 3-4 weeks
 
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