sugarless high
Well-Known Member
anybody? i think its 16 gauge!!
A Bored Electrician to Answer Your Questions
- Thread starter IAm5toned
- Start date
fluffygrrrl
Well-Known Member
I answered an ad on Craigs List about 400 w mh bulbs for sale. They were in an inside gymnasium. They were replacing them all with t5s. They were all working when I went to get them, as they hadn't been taken down yet. Anyway, I bought 8 of them for $20 apiece. Now I can't get any of them to work. I've got a guy building my grow room, and he said they didn't work. I told him to try the others and to wait a long time because they don't fire immediately. He tried another one, and all it did was hum, but never fired up. He has no experience with this type of lighting. Is there something special you need to wire these? The label says Day Brite lighting luminaire fitting. Lamp m59 h33 400 w. 120 208 240 277 volts 60hz. I tried to post a pic, but it wouldn't let me
jamesz01
Well-Known Member
hey i wanted to buid one of them cfl light powerstrip and the power strip says total loading 10 amp maximum (2400w) so will it be safe to put like 4 23w on there???
it also says 250v ac 10a 2500w sealed unit
just asking cos i dont want any fires in my house thanks
here is one i found or the froum
it also says 250v ac 10a 2500w sealed unit
just asking cos i dont want any fires in my house thanks
here is one i found or the froum
Heads Up
Well-Known Member
There are a lot of power outages where I live. Lightning, squirrels, strong thunderstorms, and sometimes I think to much sunshine. I finally invested in some hid lighting. My question is this, it is not uncommon especially in the summer to experience several power outages a day. How does this affect hid lighting and other than a generator is there a way to protect my lights?
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
lol.. probably not...
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
1200watts max... though i wouldnt run more than 900 personally
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
sounds like the ballasts may be wired for 208 or 277. what voltage are you trying to tun them off? if its 110 you will have to change the way the ballasts are connected to the power. most high bay fixtures have a connection diagram close to the access plate that tells you what wires to use for what voltage... good luck
pics would make this alot easier
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
well an interrupted light cycle is not only bad for your palnts, its also bad for your ballasts. most HID lamps are only good for so many startups as well.
any solution to this problem is going to get expensive for you however, because the problem with storing power and switching it on when you need it involves a shitload of batteries and an expensive transfer switch, no matter which way you look at it. cost is proportionate to the scale of your operation, in other words the more wattage you need, the more expensive it gets.
HID lights will use alot of your CCA on the batteries to, during restrike, because unless you have a true UPS (uninterruptable power supply) with a 3-way transfer switch and a generator or other seperatly derived power source (solar/wind), the lamps will extinguish in the 200-300 millisecs it takes for the transfer switch to engage....
this is a problem alot of engineers in commercial/industrial construction have problems with coming up with low cost solutions, more often than not what they come up with is a florescent emergency backup lighting system to provide light in critical areas untill the HID lamps can restrike.
IMHO opinion i think the most realistic approach for you would be to use t5HO lamps on bodine ballasts (a bodine ballast is a floro ballast that has a built in transfer switch and battery backup. they will run 2 lamps for about 1.5-2 hours. some of them will even run for 4 or 5 hours in optimum conditions) as a backup to your HIDs, that way when the power goes off, instead of tryting to run 1000's of watts of HID using expensive equipment that will cost at least a thousand bux just to start, you have a self contained unit that will provide enough light to keep your plants from flowering to early on or going hermie later on from repeated light stress. wiring it up to work right with the HID's shouldnt be too complecated, it would involve a single relay and a source of power that will shut off when you have a blackout, but not the controlled switching of the HIDs.
a single relay with a 120v coil, a few bodine ballasts and some lamps are far cheaper than transfer switches, battery banks, and gen sets....
send me a msg if you want more info on how to do this
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
lol...hey i wanted to buid one of them cfl light powerstrip and the power strip says total loading 10 amp maximum (2400w) so will it be safe to put like 4 23w on there???
it also says 250v ac 10a 2500w sealed unit
just asking cos i dont want any fires in my house thanks
here is one i found or the froum
4x23w= 92watts.
92watts < 2500w
you should be ok....
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
Watts = Amps x Voltage
10amps @ 250v = 2500 watts
2500 watts is less than (4 x 42w) 84 watts... far less. you'll be fine.
Heads Up
Well-Known Member
Will this work?well an interrupted light cycle is not only bad for your palnts, its also bad for your ballasts. most HID lamps are only good for so many startups as well.
any solution to this problem is going to get expensive for you however, because the problem with storing power and switching it on when you need it involves a shitload of batteries and an expensive transfer switch, no matter which way you look at it. cost is proportionate to the scale of your operation, in other words the more wattage you need, the more expensive it gets.
HID lights will use alot of your CCA on the batteries to, during restrike, because unless you have a true UPS (uninterruptable power supply) with a 3-way transfer switch and a generator or other seperatly derived power source (solar/wind), the lamps will extinguish in the 200-300 millisecs it takes for the transfer switch to engage....
this is a problem alot of engineers in commercial/industrial construction have problems with coming up with low cost solutions, more often than not what they come up with is a florescent emergency backup lighting system to provide light in critical areas untill the HID lamps can restrike.
IMHO opinion i think the most realistic approach for you would be to use t5HO lamps on bodine ballasts (a bodine ballast is a floro ballast that has a built in transfer switch and battery backup. they will run 2 lamps for about 1.5-2 hours. some of them will even run for 4 or 5 hours in optimum conditions) as a backup to your HIDs, that way when the power goes off, instead of tryting to run 1000's of watts of HID using expensive equipment that will cost at least a thousand bux just to start, you have a self contained unit that will provide enough light to keep your plants from flowering to early on or going hermie later on from repeated light stress. wiring it up to work right with the HID's shouldnt be too complecated, it would involve a single relay and a source of power that will shut off when you have a blackout, but not the controlled switching of the HIDs.
a single relay with a 120v coil, a few bodine ballasts and some lamps are far cheaper than transfer switches, battery banks, and gen sets....
send me a msg if you want more info on how to do this
http://www.horticulturesource.com/c-a-p-custom-automated-products-hid-lighting-controller-electronic-hot-start-hi-temp-protection-15-minute-delay-50-115-f-p4851/?osCsid=bb2282e24ece7f48b8d5cb3cd329508d
I already have a four tube ho t-5, can I pick up that bodine ballast somewhere and switch them out? My t5 fixture is actually a high bay fixture, it wasn't meant for growing but I don't think the plants know that.
Thanks
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
that will work fine to stop your lamps from hot-starting..
for t5's ideally you would want a b30 bodine ballast, which will run 2 of the four lamps. you could use 2 of them and run all 4 lamps, however that will get expensive, as the b30 ballasts dont come cheap... somewhere around 250-300 apiece, actually.
but you can get a cheaper version of the b30 for 50-100, however i reccomend the b30 because it will put off the most lumens.. a backup ballast for floro's will not keep the lamps as bright as normal power, but from the plants poiint of view it would be like an overcast day, instead of total darkness during a blackout.
jjp53
Well-Known Member
I was wondering what you think about 240V surge protectors. I need an extra 240 plug in my garage to run my 1000W light but I also need the dryer plugged in just in case I need it.
I was wondering if some bologne cord with a plug on one end connected to a disconnect box that has 2 240V plugs connected to it would work?
I was wondering if some bologne cord with a plug on one end connected to a disconnect box that has 2 240V plugs connected to it would work?
KolorBlind
Well-Known Member
Hey
First off, thanks for starting another electrician thread. Just like with doctors its always helpful to have a 2nd or 3rd opinion.
My main question is:
Will a 250w HPS, 3 42w CFLs, a 135CFM S&P Inline Fan and an oscillating fan run without issue on one receptacle?
I will have 2 strips plugged into the receptacle. One will power the 3 42w CFLs for my moms & clones and possible a small 6" fan. The other will power my 250w HPS and a larger 12" oscillating fan.
Any and all input is very appreciated! I just dont wanna burn my 1st house down
Peace
KB
First off, thanks for starting another electrician thread. Just like with doctors its always helpful to have a 2nd or 3rd opinion.
My main question is:
Will a 250w HPS, 3 42w CFLs, a 135CFM S&P Inline Fan and an oscillating fan run without issue on one receptacle?
I will have 2 strips plugged into the receptacle. One will power the 3 42w CFLs for my moms & clones and possible a small 6" fan. The other will power my 250w HPS and a larger 12" oscillating fan.
Any and all input is very appreciated! I just dont wanna burn my 1st house down
Peace
KB