A Bored Electrician to Answer Your Questions

Resin225

Active Member
Hey Iam5toned. Nice of you to offer up the help, even chronchrons question. lol
I need to get a contactor for my 600w hps When I google them I get ones ready to go from the UK but everything I see from the states is Do it yourself or, commercial and expensive. Can I make my own? I would rather just buy one thats ready to go. Can I get one for under $50 ? Thanks.
 

jordisgarden

Well-Known Member
hey bro, quick question for ya if ya dont mind. i bought a 400 watt hps and when i turn it on it hums then when i give it a whack on the back it will turn on and run fine.
i have to hit it though.
when its on if i run my hand down the side of it i get a small shock, not bad but enough to know somethings wrong. any idea? maybe theres a wire touching the side that shouldnt? should i open it up? ive wired a few hps lamps in the past. so i understand the basics. white to white green to green and black to black. will it be something obvious you think?
thanks man much appreciated
 

chiefbootknocker

Well-Known Member
Hey Iam5toned. Nice of you to offer up the help, even chronchrons question. lol
I need to get a contactor for my 600w hps When I google them I get ones ready to go from the UK but everything I see from the states is Do it yourself or, commercial and expensive. Can I make my own? I would rather just buy one thats ready to go. Can I get one for under $50 ? Thanks.

I'll help you out bud. Try grainger.com, or automation direct. Be mindful of you load when sizing. Ohm's law is your friend.


sizing should be I=P/E whereas I=amps P=Watts E=Voltage. example hood is 600w and (guessing) 120vac, giving you 600/120=5 amps

you could try this; http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Motor_Controls/Eaton_Cutler-Hammer_Contactors_-z-_Starters_-z-_Overloads/45mm_Contactors/CE15AN4AB

It has a maximum current of 7a well within range of your application.
 

chiefbootknocker

Well-Known Member
hey bro, quick question for ya if ya dont mind. i bought a 400 watt hps and when i turn it on it hums then when i give it a whack on the back it will turn on and run fine.
i have to hit it though.
when its on if i run my hand down the side of it i get a small shock, not bad but enough to know somethings wrong. any idea? maybe theres a wire touching the side that shouldnt? should i open it up? ive wired a few hps lamps in the past. so i understand the basics. white to white green to green and black to black. will it be something obvious you think?
thanks man much appreciated

Certainly sounds like a wire problem. I would open it up carefully and check it out if you have wired one up. Be careful is there is capacitor in it, it might still have a bit of a charge in it. I have never opened one up but I can't imagine there is too much too them...maybe a stater capacitor, and a stepdown transformer. If you don't see any wire coming out the end of a butt-connector or wire nut then check the cover for worn paint on the inside were it would cover the x-former and such. I would think if there is a starter cap in the ballast it is probably a radial type with lugs on the ends to attach the wire. Possibly the lug is coming in contact with frame. At any rate the chassis is not protected from potential, so you have the components that start the bulb, or the mogul base. Good luck...:lol:
 

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
Got a quick question:
Is it common for a rooms sockets, switches to just quit working?
Here is the situation:
one night, disposal went crazy...figured its been here since '98 it might have burnt the motor.
Next morning, my lights to the office no longer work. Huh? went the panel, no popped breaker...weird.
Figured better check the GFI's, sure as shit, they are fine....
I also know that when this circuit had been overloaded IN THE PAST it had tripped. There was nothing new added to the circuit to instantly pop overnight..
Thought okay, maybe the breaker went bad...Replaced the breaker with type QT 15 amp 2 switch breaker and wired it back up..With my fingers crossed and a quick prayer...
STILL NO FRICKIN LIGHTS. Now I am not an idiot, but have very little experience with electricity... I would have assumed by some random act that there was a neutral that came loose, cannot find one...What the heck is going on?
well in order to determine if its a neutral that came loose, your going to need a voltmeter... and start checking for voltage @ the plugs, measuring between the two large blades in the receptacles.
you say that the disposal went crazy, thats kinda unusual, most disposals have dedicated circuits. Im wondering if maybe yuo have a loose wire in a junction box or in an outlet box behind the device, or perhaps a mouse/rodent chewing on your wires.
going to be tricky, the key to finding the problem will be identifying the first device on the circuit (the one that comes directly from the panel). once you find that, you can un hook the wires feeding the rest of the circuit, and work it from one device to the next, untill you either find the problem or loose the wire between two boxes.
 

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
Hey Iam5toned. Nice of you to offer up the help, even chronchrons question. lol
I need to get a contactor for my 600w hps When I google them I get ones ready to go from the UK but everything I see from the states is Do it yourself or, commercial and expensive. Can I make my own? I would rather just buy one thats ready to go. Can I get one for under $50 ? Thanks.
you sure can....
this product here is perfect for your needs, and can accomodate 15amps of ballasts (15amps inductive, its good for anything in other words)
the coil is activated by 120 vac, although the same company makes models with coils of any voltage if you do some digging. price: $23.40
click me for the hookup on relays

this product is designed to mount in a 4" snaptrack, so if you do not have that available, you could use some heavy duty (1/4" thick) doublesided sticky tape to mount the relay, or screw it to a block of plastic so that just the outside edges of the screws hold the relay down.
bongsmilie

ps- remember that the back of the relay should be insulated(not touching anything metal or conductive, which is why i recomended plastic or double sided tape.)
 

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
hey bro, quick question for ya if ya dont mind. i bought a 400 watt hps and when i turn it on it hums then when i give it a whack on the back it will turn on and run fine.
i have to hit it though.
when its on if i run my hand down the side of it i get a small shock, not bad but enough to know somethings wrong. any idea? maybe theres a wire touching the side that shouldnt? should i open it up? ive wired a few hps lamps in the past. so i understand the basics. white to white green to green and black to black. will it be something obvious you think?
thanks man much appreciated
almost sounds like there is a short between the neutral coming off of the ignitor and the frame of the fixture, or a short coming off of the neutral coming from the lamp. definitly a short/ nicked wire.
 

fureelz

Active Member
well in order to determine if its a neutral that came loose, your going to need a voltmeter... and start checking for voltage @ the plugs, measuring between the two large blades in the receptacles.
you say that the disposal went crazy, thats kinda unusual, most disposals have dedicated circuits. Im wondering if maybe yuo have a loose wire in a junction box or in an outlet box behind the device, or perhaps a mouse/rodent chewing on your wires.
going to be tricky, the key to finding the problem will be identifying the first device on the circuit (the one that comes directly from the panel). once you find that, you can un hook the wires feeding the rest of the circuit, and work it from one device to the next, untill you either find the problem or loose the wire between two boxes.
That sounds like a lot of work. Got an electrician coming on Friday. gonna have to set up a payment plan for this sh!t.
 

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
yes, because thats exactly what an electronic ppm meter does; pure, lab grade distilled h2o is an insulator, in other words it cannot conduct electricity. add a few dissolved salts and suddenly it becomes conductive. (salts are metalic) as more salts are added to the solution, the conductivity increases, the resistance is lowered, and the water becomes more conductive. so the higher the ppm, the lower the resistance.
that makes it sound pretty simple right?
unfortunatly its not.... 2 reasons why:
1 your average contractor grade multimeter is not built with a low enough scale to be able to make accurate measurements. and since a digital multimeter uses true RMS (root, mean, square) math functions to give readings, it is not the ideal instrument of choice. you would need an analog meter, like an old simpson, that has been calibrated by an expert.

2 there are so many minute variables in a procedure like this it would be almost impossible to take two identical readings off the same sample... the positioning, depth and distance between the electrodes will greatly affect the readings, as will many other factors such as contaminated samples(even the oils from a single fingerprint would mess up your reading by at least an order of magnitude), weak batteries(in the meter), lack of a known control to compare results against, and many many other things.

so to answer your question, is it possible?
yes
is it practical?
not at all. ppm meters overcome most of the problems by applied engineering, product testing, more engineering, etc etc. its why they cost what they do for something so simple: consistancy.
to use a multimeter to get consistant, accurate measurements would take a lab setting using scientific method. to much of a pain in the ass IMO
bongsmilie
 

jordisgarden

Well-Known Member
i have wired up hps lamps before. so id imagine i could handle this. i have kids and the last thing i want is a fire. do you think if i opened it and posted some pics you could let me know if im gettin it right?. i actually have to run my hand down the side to feel the electricity. it didnt hurt me but it surprised the hell out of me. scarey when you dont expect it.
 

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
i have wired up hps lamps before. so id imagine i could handle this. i have kids and the last thing i want is a fire. do you think if i opened it and posted some pics you could let me know if im gettin it right?. i actually have to run my hand down the side to feel the electricity. it didnt hurt me but it surprised the hell out of me. scarey when you dont expect it.
let me ask you a few simple questions:
do you have access to a multimeter?

and is the fixture body grounded?

post the pics and ill be glad to take a peek at them, they always help.

your problem may not be with the fixture itself though on further consideration, that may in fact be a wiring issue... you might have a neutral load on the system ground somewhere. definitly going to need a multimeter for sure.
 

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
guys and gals, I am moving across town over the weekend, and I probably will be too busy to check in on this thread.

No worries though, Ill be back by monday evening at the latest!

In the meanwhile, try not to burn yer house down or blowyourself up ;) :lol:
 

erkelsgoo420

New Member
Sweet thread. I am looking to run a dedicated line from my breaker box to my room for my lights. I would really like to go 240v but can live with 120 if its that much more of a pain in the ass. I have a basic knowledge of electrical work but was wondering if I could get some step by step or have a link to a how to on running a dedicated line and possibly converting to 240? Thanks for any and all help already gained from this thread.
 

tactownryder

Active Member
heyy everyone =) im on my first grow and i wus just wondering if this is enough light? there 23 watt 100 watt equv 5600k bulbs. will i need more lights when they get bigger or shud this do it?

 

sugarless high

Well-Known Member
how much lights and stuff can i plug into this? extention cord 50 ft long plugged in in my attic. ran through celing and a power strip connected to it!?
 
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