1st Grow Room Plan. Please Check it out.

Seaweed11

Member
Hello All,
This is my first post. I have been doing a lot of research on this forum and have used the info I gathered to construct a two room setup using my closet and the adjoining attic. I air-sealed everything. I will have a flowering room using a 1000w HPS and a little nursery in my attic addition using CFL. Please comment, what works, what doesn't. Does the airflow look right. I WILL have a passive intake in the flowering room, I am just not sure where yet. Thanks.
 

DaGambler

Well-Known Member
you might consider pulling air from the hood on the 1000w HPS directly (no intake hose hanging from the hood, only an outflow suction hose attached)... with the carbon filter in-line with this suction hose... so the hot air from the lamp hood goes into the carbon filter and out the roof vent. you'll have to restrict the air being pulled from the clone area somehow so that most of the air is taken from the flower room - if you are going to pull from two different spots using a splitter or 'T' duct fitting. The passive intake would feed into the flower room floor from the main house. Just a through hole to another area.

if it would be difficult to use the carbon filter 'in-line' ... then just place the carbon filter at the room peak... and pull the hot air from the top of the flower room throught the carbon filter and out the roof vent.
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Seaweed11

Member
Thanks for the response. I was a little confused, and I think its because you might have thought this was a cross section, but its not, its a birds eye view. The two rooms are on the same floor of the house.
 

DaGambler

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the response. I was a little confused, and I think its because you might have thought this was a cross section, but its not, its a birds eye view. The two rooms are on the same floor of the house.
hmm... ya its not bad... the biggest problem is pulling from 3 different areas with just one exhaust fan. (significantly more air flow will come from one area - not necessarily the area you would like.) but you are planning on exchanging air in the hood (outside to outside) and the two room themselves ... so all the bases are covered. anytime you can shorten a duct run - that's a good thing. a 90 degree turn reduces the air moved by like 25%. so straight runs when possible... and the shortest length of ducting possible. you might consider running 2 exhausts rather than just one... or even 3 exhausts, depending on the temperatures involved in the attic. and stick with inline centrifugal fans rather than the home depot/lowe's brands ... they have no power and only put out the suggested cfm with no ducting attached.
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Seaweed11

Member
Thanks for the response.

hmm... ya its not bad... the biggest problem is pulling from 3 different areas with just one exhaust fan. (significantly more air flow will come from one area - not necessarily the area you would like.)
Yea, I wasn't sure how this would work. I wanted to just buy one nice fan and run everything through it. In the plan, there are 3 separate 6" runs that would be exhausted through the fan. I read that a 6" duct can handle anywhere b/w 100-170 CFM (different sources said different things). I figured if I had a fan pulling around 400cfm( canfan 6"HO), all the runs would be maxed out and be pulling equally. Is this sound logic? I guess even if this makes sense, if I run the fan at a lesser speed, things might be difficult to control.

For the most part, I am using rigid duct and rigid 90 degree elbows. The only place I will use flexible duct is on the immediate sides of the 1000w so I can adjust height as needed.
 

DaGambler

Well-Known Member
a 6" duct can handle 400+ cfm quite well. you could have a 1000+ cfm fan pulling from 3 different (6" ducted) areas... so long as each of the 6" ducts feeds into a larger central duct. one thing to consider there is that a 1000+ cfm fan is about twice as loud as (2) 400+ cfm fans. they sound like friggin jet engines :lol:

personally, i don't think i'd go any smaller than a 400+ centrifugal inline fan. with only (1) 1000w lamp... and some tweaking as far how much air is being pulled from each area... that may be able to do the job for you. i think it would in a room in the house anyways, up in the attic - all bets are off.
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DaGambler

Well-Known Member
I love your sig gambler
heheh. gotta love mandatory minimums for marijuana growers. i just read about a couple cops that received a bad tip from a known drug pusher regarding a 'drug house'. they had a No Knock Warrant. so, without even anouncing who they were... they proceeded to break into this 88 year old ladies house. as they are shoving the door open the old lady puts a 45 slug through the door 'cuz she thinks she's being home invasion'd. The cops unload like 20 rounds through the door, killing her. They go inside and see what a collosal fuk-up they have just commited (obviously NOT a drug house) and start to brainstorm. They then plant baggies of marijuana around the house to make it look like granny was dealing !! Well, the story does'nt last for long... one of them finally cooperates (spills the beans) with the investigators. He'll be out of jail in 2 years. The other cop wasn't fast enough to tell the truth and will serve maybe 8 years. These two fags killed someone during the commision of a felony (if planting evidence isn't a felony - it sure as hell should be !! ) ... that means this should be a capital murder case.

For killing an old lady in her own home one of these cops will be out in 2 years. If they had broken in and discovered her -actually- growing marijuana ... she would have faced a mandatory minimum sentence ... maybe 10 years ... maybe 40 years ... maybe life.

Something is very wrong with this system.
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Seaweed11

Member
Thanks for the response again.
If a 6" duct can handle 400cfm, then I think my plan will work. I don't have that large of an area to circulate the air in. Only 275 cu ft, and if I need to circulate the air 3 times per minute that's only 91cfm required.
I can run the 3 rigid 6" ducts to a central 6" rigid duct attached to the fan. If its pulling 400 cfm, then I have enough movement to cool the light, pull air through the carbon filter, and circulate both rooms. 133 cfm each.
I built a room in the attic, I framed it out, insulated and dry walled etc, its airtight except for the passive intake, its really low though, slants from 4-3 ft.
 

DaGambler

Well-Known Member
If its pulling 400 cfm, then I have enough movement to cool the light, pull air through the carbon filter, and circulate both rooms. 133 cfm each...
... maybe, but that's what i was saying before about the air not coming from where you want it to, necessarily. The longer the run, the more bends in the run, the less air that is going to be pulled from that particular area. the duct that has a carbon filter at the end of it would have to be on the shortest possible run, with no kinks or bends, to pull anywhere near the same amount of air as the other two duct lines.

you could exhaust the clone/veg area with a cheap Lowe's 250 cfm duct fan (just a hole directly through the wall... no ducting). and then use a much better 400+ cfm centrifugal inline fan purchased online to clear out the hood and the flower room. If you placed the carbon filter right on the inline fan (a can/fan combo) and just exhausted the whole room... you'd get all 400 cfm's of power and you wouldn't even have to worry about exhausting the 1000w lamp separately. Or skip having any fan at all in the clone/veg room and just have a passive intake hole in that room. The 400 cfm fan would pull through the passive intake in the clone room (no ducting) into the flower room. No ducting. At all. (except maybe a two foot section going from the clone room to the flower room just for light proofing) The "No Ducting" Setup:


air comes in just under the roof overhang.... through clone room... through 2' section of ducting separating clone and flower rooms... and is pulled into the can/fan combo and exhausted out just under the roof overhang. alternately, you could position the can/fan combo at the highest point in the room and then duct that air down to the roof overhang or up into a attic vent. cheap home air filters at intake and exhaust points help to keep out bugs, etc.
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Seaweed11

Member
Thanks for all the thought you have put into your responses Gambler. Your pic is really close to what cross section of my setup would be. I definitely like the minimalist approach, I usually try to do too much and end up with things that are overly complicated. I would be worried about the 1000w heating up the flower room too much if it wasn't directly exhausted, what do you think? The room it would be in is 5x5x5.5( slants from 4-7).
Do you think it would be possible to regulate air intake by putting on different sized reducers. For example, if one 6" duct is pulling more than I want, could I potentially put on a 6"-4" reducer on it to cut the intake?
I forgot to mention power is a little bit of an issue. I have one dedicated 20amp breaker, and a 15amp shared breaker that I don't want to run too much off of. That was another reason for the single fan.
 

Hulk Nugs

Well-Known Member
hey man looks like your thinking about this before you start growing witch is a great thing...........i would run the rooms for a day or two checking every once in awhile writing down temps to give you a idea of what your going to have to deal with and if there is any modifactions you want to make...........looking forward to seeing the pics of the rooms .......the more pics you have makes every one feel like there right in the room helping out bongsmilierip for me bongsmilierip for you :lol:
 

DaGambler

Well-Known Member
I would be worried about the 1000w heating up the flower room too much if it wasn't directly exhausted, what do you think? The room it would be in is 5x5x5.5( slants from 4-7).
think of that entire room as a giant parabolic hood :D in my flower room i have (6) 1000w lamps. 4 are vented as if the room were sealed - from outside to outside with two 440 cfm fans each clearing out 2 lamps. the final two lights are in old school hoods that aren't air vented. that's alright though, cuz there is a third 1000+ cfm fan clearing out the entire room. think of a greenhouse, there is no ducting, they just clear out the entire room with a massive intake and exhaust fan.

sounds like that light will be hanging from the center of that area at about 5 1/2 feet clearance. that makes this a tight grow space. figure the lights gonna take up a foot with hardware (might as well just solid mount it as high as you can, cuz you won't need to raise/lower it.) leaving 4 1/2 feet under it. you gonna need/want about a 1 ft. of air space under the light even if it were glassed off and vented separate from the room. that takes you down to 3 1/2 feet usable space. your medium (soil or hydroponic whatever could take up to a foot pretty easily.) so you max plant height is going to be like 2 1/2 feet. you'll deffinitely want to flip them to flower by the time they reach 12" in height, maybe even top them a final time right at the switchover.

Do you think it would be possible to regulate air intake by putting on different sized reducers. For example, if one 6" duct is pulling more than I want, could I potentially put on a 6"-4" reducer on it to cut the intake?
deffinitely. anything obstructing the intake or the exhaust will quickly change airflow. a person can also spring for a thermostat control box for the fan which turns it on/off at a particular temp... or get a more expensive fan control unit that has like a on low, on med, on high, off thermostat settings. also, depending on where you live, what you do to 'summerize' the room may be different than what you'll need to do in the winter-time. the picture above should be fairly ideal in the summer months... but in the winter months you'd maybe want to have the passive intake in the flower room and the exhaust in the clone room - to further heat up the clone room. might still need a space heater in the clone room... and the thermostat controlled fan would then act as an intake in the flower room and would only come on intermittently - just enough to cool the flower room and ensure adequate co2. the carbon filter would be placed separately over the clone room exhaust.

I forgot to mention power is a little bit of an issue. I have one dedicated 20amp breaker, and a 15amp shared breaker that I don't want to run too much off of. That was another reason for the single fan.
not a problem running a 1k light and a good fan and even some flourescent fixtures for clone/veg. off the same 20 amp breaker.... but if you do end up needing any sort of climate control up there... and a.c. unit or a space heater - that would cut too deep and you'd need that running off the other 15 amp shared breaker.

and don't worry, i like talking shop :D i've spent many a day daydreaming and sketching out different setups for different size spaces or different number of lamps or different media ... its a sickness. :eyesmoke: :lol: bongsmilie
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Seaweed11

Member
So I bought all my gear. It was way more expensive than I thought it would be. A buddy told me he had a friend with a hydro store that would "hook us up", together we spent over 4 grand. His "hook up" was charging us MSRP and giving us a 15% discount. I was pretty pissed, I could have gotten everything cheaper off the internet, but live and learn.
Gambler, I actually went ahead and bought 2 400cfm fans. One will be to cool the light and pull hot air out of the clone room so fresh comes in. The other will be to pull stinky hot air through the carbon filter, that will be on a variable speed controller. That one will be vented over the cloning/mother/vegging area to keep it warm because temps have already started dropping. I'll draw a picture when I have time tomorrow.
 
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