A question about re-potting.
- Thread starter Atea
- Start date
tusseltussel
Well-Known Member
my vote goes with dry than water it in. if it has a good root ball it will hold together fine
Atea
Well-Known Member
tusseltussel
Well-Known Member
yea if wet it will be heavy and squooshyI see what you mean mate
Atea
Well-Known Member
Mizuta3
New Member
actually i prefer to repot at night after i watered in the morning so that the soil is still semi wet so that it holds together more...when its too dry the soil falls off hella quick and if your root ball isnt fully developed to the point of holding it can mess with your root system
Atea
Well-Known Member
Brick Top
New Member
When you repot follow the following steps.
　
Select the pot size you will be transplanting into. (I suggest growing in nothing smaller than 5-gallon pots and I normally use 7-gallon pots and I start out my plants in them and never repot.)
　
Allow the soil in the pot your plant is in to dry out and slightly pull away from the sides of the pot.
　
(The following applies if you are right handed. If not reverse the hand position/use instructions)
　
Partially fill your new larger pot with quality soil so when you insert your plant into the new pot and fill in around the rootball the top of the soil will be at the correct level.
　
Pick up your old pot with your left hand.
　
Place your right hand on top of the soil with the main stem between your first and second fingers.
　
Gently tap the edge of the pot on a countertop or a workbench or something similar. The entire rootball should slide out in one piece, possibly with a slight amount of soil loss, but no damage to or loss of roots unless the plant was so root-bound that the roots had grown through the drain holes. If that is the case clip them first.
　
You plant and rootball are then securely held in your right hand. Inspect the rootball and if it is tightly packed/twisted/root-bound slightly score/cut the edges of the rootball and also slightly score/cut the bottom of the rootball.
If you do not so that the roots will want to continue to follow their circling pattern and their growth progression both down and to the sides into the fresh deeper soil will be much slower.
Each cut root will push out new roots and they will go both out and down into the new soil.
　
Place the plant into the new pot.
　
If the surface level of the old rootball is to low or two high remove some soil or add additional soil.
　
Next fill in around the edges between the rootball and the sides of the larger pot.
　
Water thoroughly to cause the soil to settle without compressing it too much by packing it down by hand. If needed add additional soil and water again.
　
Normally plants will undergo very little to no shock when transplanted in this manner but it would not be an injudicious thing to do to use a product like SuperThrive or something with the same general properties because they will reduce plant stress helping them to overcome it quicker and easier.
　
　
　
　
　
Select the pot size you will be transplanting into. (I suggest growing in nothing smaller than 5-gallon pots and I normally use 7-gallon pots and I start out my plants in them and never repot.)
　
Allow the soil in the pot your plant is in to dry out and slightly pull away from the sides of the pot.
　
(The following applies if you are right handed. If not reverse the hand position/use instructions)
　
Partially fill your new larger pot with quality soil so when you insert your plant into the new pot and fill in around the rootball the top of the soil will be at the correct level.
　
Pick up your old pot with your left hand.
　
Place your right hand on top of the soil with the main stem between your first and second fingers.
　
Gently tap the edge of the pot on a countertop or a workbench or something similar. The entire rootball should slide out in one piece, possibly with a slight amount of soil loss, but no damage to or loss of roots unless the plant was so root-bound that the roots had grown through the drain holes. If that is the case clip them first.
　
You plant and rootball are then securely held in your right hand. Inspect the rootball and if it is tightly packed/twisted/root-bound slightly score/cut the edges of the rootball and also slightly score/cut the bottom of the rootball.
If you do not so that the roots will want to continue to follow their circling pattern and their growth progression both down and to the sides into the fresh deeper soil will be much slower.
Each cut root will push out new roots and they will go both out and down into the new soil.
　
Place the plant into the new pot.
　
If the surface level of the old rootball is to low or two high remove some soil or add additional soil.
　
Next fill in around the edges between the rootball and the sides of the larger pot.
　
Water thoroughly to cause the soil to settle without compressing it too much by packing it down by hand. If needed add additional soil and water again.
　
Normally plants will undergo very little to no shock when transplanted in this manner but it would not be an injudicious thing to do to use a product like SuperThrive or something with the same general properties because they will reduce plant stress helping them to overcome it quicker and easier.
　
　
　
　
tusseltussel
Well-Known Member
ive done it for awhile where i grew right in the pot it would live in all its life but there are many downfalls to this methode transplanting gets you a fuller rootmass no sense wastn a bunch of soil!....also it is easy to overwater with pots that are too big there just isn't enuff root to suck up all that water maybe you have perfected your style of growing but i think a little disclaimer is needed
Why do I need to transplant?
Contributed by: Thurgood Jenkins
Roots grow outward for stability, so they naturally collect at the edges of the container and leave much of the soil in the middle of the pot unused. This will cause slowed growth because the roots may restrict each other. Transplanting allows for a more efficient root mass, as the space in the middle of the final container will be used.
Allowing the roots to collect at the edges of your 1-gallon pot, will ensure a more efficient root mass when transplanting to a 3-gallon pot. Each time you transplant, you can also bury the plant up to the first node or branch to shorten it's overall height.
Added by: Kunta wears a sarong
It might be worth mentioning that you can bury the plant low or high in the pot you are transplanting to as well; that way all your plants will start off being the same height. Transplanting high might be a good idea for patio growers in high rainfall conditions - this will help drainage.
When
Transplanting should be done a day after watering because moist roots and soil (not soaking wet or bone dry) will slide out of the old pot easier. The soil will hold together better, and less root damage will occur.
How
You should loosen the root bound roots from the bottom and lower sides of the root ball by teasing them out loosely and gently - this will help the transition. if there are too many hanging down after teasing, then it is ok to cut or tear a few handfuls of roots away. If the roots are wrapped around the root ball in the shape of the original pot, then it's best to cut these away to promote faster root penetration into the new pot.
Timing
The secret is the timing of the transplant; you want when the roots have filled the original pot, but before the roots have wrapped around and the plant has become root bound.
The danger of transplanting too early is that when you up can the pot and lift off the pot some of the soil and young roots may become damaged due to the fact that there is insufficient amount of roots to hold all the soil together.
The danger of waiting too long before transplanting is that growth will slow, as the plant has insufficient root room to match the above ground growth ultimately yielding less. In addition, micro deficiencies, dehydration and other problems occur more frequently with root bound plants. Root-bound plants also take awhile to become vigorous again.
My Technique
My preferred method of transplanting is to moisten the pots I'm going to transplant, moisten the new soil at the bottom of the new pots with a garden mister (the pump up models are best - misters are by far the best way to moisten the soil because they act like rain and do not compact the soil).
Mist each 3-inch layer of soil - lightly sprinkle around the old root ball in the new pot - this will create the best conditions for new growth. Roots will reach out and grow much faster into a light, airy moist soil than the compacted mud created by a hose or watering can to wet down the soil
I believe that many problems are caused initially by compacting the soil.
Lightly moisten your soil before and after transplanting. If a lot of water is pouring out of the holes in the bottoms of your pots when transplanting, then you are probably over wetting the soil and creating soil compaction.
Tips:
If your soil is lacking in soil conditioners (e.g. sand, rock gravel, perlite, vermiculite etc) and the roots have penetrated the new soil - then water again. In normal conditions this would be 4 - 7 days after transplanting. Try to emulate the natural action of rain: pump up misters, watering wands, sprinkler type watering cans are best - forget about using a hose as this may compact the soil and it is also very easy to over water (quickly leaching out nutrients from the soil).
All the soil mix ingredients should be mixed in dry.... never stir or mix wet soil mixes, as they will turn to useless mud.
https://www.rollitup.org/view.php?pg=faq&cmd=category&id=86
Why do I need to transplant?
Contributed by: Thurgood Jenkins
Roots grow outward for stability, so they naturally collect at the edges of the container and leave much of the soil in the middle of the pot unused. This will cause slowed growth because the roots may restrict each other. Transplanting allows for a more efficient root mass, as the space in the middle of the final container will be used.
Allowing the roots to collect at the edges of your 1-gallon pot, will ensure a more efficient root mass when transplanting to a 3-gallon pot. Each time you transplant, you can also bury the plant up to the first node or branch to shorten it's overall height.
Added by: Kunta wears a sarong
It might be worth mentioning that you can bury the plant low or high in the pot you are transplanting to as well; that way all your plants will start off being the same height. Transplanting high might be a good idea for patio growers in high rainfall conditions - this will help drainage.
When
Transplanting should be done a day after watering because moist roots and soil (not soaking wet or bone dry) will slide out of the old pot easier. The soil will hold together better, and less root damage will occur.
How
You should loosen the root bound roots from the bottom and lower sides of the root ball by teasing them out loosely and gently - this will help the transition. if there are too many hanging down after teasing, then it is ok to cut or tear a few handfuls of roots away. If the roots are wrapped around the root ball in the shape of the original pot, then it's best to cut these away to promote faster root penetration into the new pot.
Timing
The secret is the timing of the transplant; you want when the roots have filled the original pot, but before the roots have wrapped around and the plant has become root bound.
The danger of transplanting too early is that when you up can the pot and lift off the pot some of the soil and young roots may become damaged due to the fact that there is insufficient amount of roots to hold all the soil together.
The danger of waiting too long before transplanting is that growth will slow, as the plant has insufficient root room to match the above ground growth ultimately yielding less. In addition, micro deficiencies, dehydration and other problems occur more frequently with root bound plants. Root-bound plants also take awhile to become vigorous again.
My Technique
My preferred method of transplanting is to moisten the pots I'm going to transplant, moisten the new soil at the bottom of the new pots with a garden mister (the pump up models are best - misters are by far the best way to moisten the soil because they act like rain and do not compact the soil).
Mist each 3-inch layer of soil - lightly sprinkle around the old root ball in the new pot - this will create the best conditions for new growth. Roots will reach out and grow much faster into a light, airy moist soil than the compacted mud created by a hose or watering can to wet down the soil
I believe that many problems are caused initially by compacting the soil.
Lightly moisten your soil before and after transplanting. If a lot of water is pouring out of the holes in the bottoms of your pots when transplanting, then you are probably over wetting the soil and creating soil compaction.
Tips:
If your soil is lacking in soil conditioners (e.g. sand, rock gravel, perlite, vermiculite etc) and the roots have penetrated the new soil - then water again. In normal conditions this would be 4 - 7 days after transplanting. Try to emulate the natural action of rain: pump up misters, watering wands, sprinkler type watering cans are best - forget about using a hose as this may compact the soil and it is also very easy to over water (quickly leaching out nutrients from the soil).
All the soil mix ingredients should be mixed in dry.... never stir or mix wet soil mixes, as they will turn to useless mud.
https://www.rollitup.org/view.php?pg=faq&cmd=category&id=86
Atea
Well-Known Member
Brick Top
New Member
Brick Top
New Member
One other thing. Something like there is no use wasting soil mentioned.
　
If I grow a plant that is around 4ft. tall or taller in a 7-gallon pot if after harvest I allow the soil to dry just enough too easily remove the rootball every bit of dirt in the pot will come out together in one mass. There will not be a place in that soil/pot that does not have roots.
　
The difference is the roots are not all tightly packed and wound together and there are large areas that are filled with small tiny roots spreading out in every direction all with spectacular access to moisture and nutrients ... instead of a tangled mass of mainly hardened off roots that at that point are only pipes and then some root-ends all cramped into what tiny bit of soil remains that is not already tighter packed together than like putting 5 pounds of baloney into a 3 pound skin, while all those roots desperately compete for what little moisture and nutrition can be found there or found trapped between tightly wound roots.
　
Soil used like I use my growing medium is never wasted. It may not be used in the same way others believe is best or is at least at least pretty decently used but it is never wasted. What it supplies plants with during the times they would be lacking it due to needing to be repotted or if left in to small of a pot in the end more than makes up for any slight additional cost someone might incur.
　
If you look at all that is gotten in return from the additional soil you see it is a value.
　
If I grow a plant that is around 4ft. tall or taller in a 7-gallon pot if after harvest I allow the soil to dry just enough too easily remove the rootball every bit of dirt in the pot will come out together in one mass. There will not be a place in that soil/pot that does not have roots.
　
The difference is the roots are not all tightly packed and wound together and there are large areas that are filled with small tiny roots spreading out in every direction all with spectacular access to moisture and nutrients ... instead of a tangled mass of mainly hardened off roots that at that point are only pipes and then some root-ends all cramped into what tiny bit of soil remains that is not already tighter packed together than like putting 5 pounds of baloney into a 3 pound skin, while all those roots desperately compete for what little moisture and nutrition can be found there or found trapped between tightly wound roots.
　
Soil used like I use my growing medium is never wasted. It may not be used in the same way others believe is best or is at least at least pretty decently used but it is never wasted. What it supplies plants with during the times they would be lacking it due to needing to be repotted or if left in to small of a pot in the end more than makes up for any slight additional cost someone might incur.
　
If you look at all that is gotten in return from the additional soil you see it is a value.
Brick Top
New Member
I do. I will at times for some reason or reasons use 5-gallon pots but I do not go under that.
Depending on someones space and equipment and how it is set up you can reach a point of diminishing returns on anything.
If say you had height issues and you were not going to grow plants that were more than say 3-ft. then going over 5-gallons would not be as much of a help as it would be a hindrance because say you jumped to 7-gallon pots it would eat up a good bit of height that you need for plant growth.
That is unless you would use some training method to keep plants low and could then veg them longer and they would use more pot-size by the time full rootmass size has occurred so then a larger pot would not be a drawback.
　
Other things can factor in so there is a balance point that there is no sense in surpassing but anything under that point is not better and would likely be anything from only slightly worse to much, much worse. I took a lot of risks in my life but when it comes to this I feel if there is a risk that has to be taken then take the safest risk.
　
For me, with my setup/system/conditions/etc., it is the safest risk. When you assess all risks involved and overall results.
For me it is the best way to grow in pots and other than for an occasional brain-fart caused problem it works very well and very consistently.
BUT I will stress that is for ME and I will not swear that under every set of conditions in all setups done by all people they will see duplicate results.
I would say I believe that most would at least see some overall improvement and things being slightly easier at times too.
　
Either way though my popped beans go right into the center of whatever size pot I will be using that particular time and it lives its entire life in that one single pot and they pretty much always seem to love it.
skunkman98536
Well-Known Member
yup let it dry out
then wut i do i is just put the stem between my fingers and squuze the containers lightly and it fall right out ..
then usually softly ill take my finger and break the rootball up a 12, 3, 6, and 9 o clock to help the roots spread out .. the covr up with dirt then give it a nice watering!
then wut i do i is just put the stem between my fingers and squuze the containers lightly and it fall right out ..
then usually softly ill take my finger and break the rootball up a 12, 3, 6, and 9 o clock to help the roots spread out .. the covr up with dirt then give it a nice watering!
Atea
Well-Known Member
Right all i got her repotted.
Everything went well i got my GF to give me a hand.
Well everything went well untill i told her to keep her hand on to my other lady while i gave her a couple of taps on the side that she will fall out.
She came out well but my GF didnt really understand the idea that you need to hold the plant , so it came tumbling down on the floor lol.
Well i still repotted her and this morning she looked alright ( even she was really bent after the falldown )
PS:If she will turn hermie because of this ill dump my GF
Just kidding heh.
Everything went well i got my GF to give me a hand.
Well everything went well untill i told her to keep her hand on to my other lady while i gave her a couple of taps on the side that she will fall out.
She came out well but my GF didnt really understand the idea that you need to hold the plant , so it came tumbling down on the floor lol.
Well i still repotted her and this morning she looked alright ( even she was really bent after the falldown )
PS:If she will turn hermie because of this ill dump my GF
Just kidding heh.