Seed Production. A Tutorial

Spasticsmoke

Active Member
within the next day or so the hairs that were pollinated will die. they dry up and turn brown. this is a good sign that it took. now we wait. seed production takes quite some time. indoors i will seed about the second to third week of flower. the seeds will be done by harvest. i like to wait until i see the skin of the seed pod start to peel back and the exposed seed poking out. premature seeds are no good. the longer i wait the better. it does not hurt to let them go until they fall off on there own. i can shake a branch and seeds will litter down.
Great tutorial, it inspired me to give breeding a shot. I got a female in a batch of bagseed that showed some very interesting leaf patterns


And crossed it with a male that i pulled and transplanted to anoter location, i brought a couple over there and found one to be VERY stinky and had some nice resin production.

My question, and yes there is one, is that i went away to college and was only able to pollenate them today (9/13/09) in your experience how long will it take for the seeds to be mature, hopefully i have a late frost, but i wouldn't want to get a bunch of un-matured seeds and was thinking i could leave the budds with the seeds on through the frost hoping it would give them time to finish up...

so what do you think fdd
 

fdd2blk

Well-Known Member
i pollinated a bunch last week. i will do hit them again this week as well. i like to wait until i have full, thick, thumb sized nuggets. bongsmilie

a little frost never hurt anything. as long as it doesn't burn the plant and it gets a chance to warm up and dry out during the day, then a few cold mornings won't hurt it.
 

Corwin

Active Member
Hey look fdd I read every page without saying the "f" word.

Great thread thanks for the hard work.

I have one of my girls knocked up at the moment.
The mother is Ganesha's Dream. (Northern Lights x Shiva Shanti)
I crossed her with a very short, kush with great node spacing and good smell.
I really like these indoor sog that are not more than a bud on a stick.
I hope this will give me seeds that will improve on what we grew out this time.


I took a pic of a seeded bud. Forgive the newbie macro shot.

 

bicycle racer

Well-Known Member
for fun im trying something different i have a clone only purple urkel in veg it is showing some pistils so i brushed it with some purple urkel/white widow hybrid pollen we will see if the pollen takes in veg. otherwise when i flower the urkel i will hit it with the urkel widow pollen to begin the backcross process.
 

fdd2blk

Well-Known Member
for fun im trying something different i have a clone only purple urkel in veg it is showing some pistils so i brushed it with some purple urkel/white widow hybrid pollen we will see if the pollen takes in veg. otherwise when i flower the urkel i will hit it with the urkel widow pollen to begin the backcross process.
it should work. :bigjoint:
 

JohnnyDaManiac

Well-Known Member
I don't know much about breading so what would crossing the urkel with the urkelxWW do? It would have 75% of the urkel genes now right? I just want to know if there is something I am missing.
 

fdd2blk

Well-Known Member
I don't know much about breading so what would crossing the urkel with the urkelxWW do? It would have 75% of the urkel genes now right? I just want to know if there is something I am missing.
i'm not sure if it's that simple when working with multiple crosses. it could be though. if both strains are 'stable" to begin with then theoretically it will be 50% of each parent, which would make it 75% urkel. ;-)
 

JohnnyDaManiac

Well-Known Member
I'm not quite sure I know what stable means. Does it mean a physically stable phenotype that you achieve through inbreeding?
 

fdd2blk

Well-Known Member
I'm not quite sure I know what stable means. Does it mean a physically stable phenotype that you achieve through inbreeding?

stable; no hermy traits mainly. consistent as well. if you plant 100 seeds you will get 100 identical plants. achieved thru selective breeding. :bigjoint:
 

Jack in the Bud

Active Member
he's happy...




I did something similar with some Allegria seeds I got a year ago. After they indicated I kept 2 of the males off in another room and once they got to the point where they were releasing their pollen on their own I would "milk" them daily by holding a piece of slick paper under the pods and tapping the branch to get the pollen to fall on it.

Then by folding the paper I could funnel the collected pollen into a 35mm plastic film canister. After about 2 to 3 weeks of this I had the canister about 10% full. And that's a lot of pollen.

I used the brush technique described to pollinate the bottom two buds on each female plant and ended up with a good 2 oz. of seeds to use for future grows while still having at least 75% of the buds from that grow remain seedless.

I've stored the remaining pollen in that canister in the freezer and have used it on two subsequent grows to pollinate one small bud at the bottom of each new female grown.

It's been almost a year since I collected it and stored it in the freezer and that pollen is still viable.

My reasons for continuing to pollinate one small lower bud on each new female grown has been two fold. One, to continue to get some fresh seeds and two, in hopes that by letting each plant reproduce to a limited extent they wouldn't be tempted to form any hermaphrodites or produce "banannas" at the end of the flowering cycle.

While I haven't had any hermaphrodites form since begining to do this it may have more to do with this strains (Allegria) not being prone to that than it does with my "theory".

It did not eliminate the formation of banannas during the final stages of flowering. All though I don't seem to get as many of those as I have in past harvests. Any way, by the time the banannas start showing up they seem to be ready to harvest according to the clouding up and beginning to amber of some of the trichromes.
 

bicycle racer

Well-Known Member
sealed in containers with moisture absorbers such as silicate in another light proof container in the fridge not freezer preferably. they will stay viable for quite a few years sometimes 10 or more.
 

born2killspam

Well-Known Member
The odd one might keep for 10years with that method.. Some will still start to dwindle from 2yrs on.. I'd guess 50% viability at 4-6years if stored well..
Storing them in a drawer etc is more variable due to temps/humidity, but alot won't make it past 18-24months under fairly cool/dry conditions.. Most harvested in fall will usually be fine for planting in spring though regardless of storage care..
 
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