grodrowithme
Well-Known Member
when you mix the cal-mag how do you mix it and then how do you mix the rest. cal-mag= very good product but also = trouble if you dont mix right we had the same problem with it
SoG Grow Room Discussion
- Thread starter SOG
- Start date
grodrowithme
Well-Known Member
also with 2 week old clones why do you run such a high ppm? shouldnt it be a little lower? and dont you run just a basic SoG just on a larger scale?
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
i got it stablenow on 1420ppm @0.5, pH 5.8, water @68.8f
yes
my soup mix consist of
126ml Cal-Mag Plus
250ml Sweet
180ml Liquid Karma
540ml Pure Blend Pro Bloom
15 gallon reservoir to 1400ppm (i end up using about half)
going to snap the pics... now!
you are using way too much cal/mag
you have the same res as me
cut that cal/mag down to 75mL (15gallons x 5mL)
grodrowithme
Well-Known Member
at least 75 i use a 30 gal res. and only run 60ml that could be 1 of your main problems.
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
also, what meters are you using?
please stay away from ppm if you want accurate help from other folks. PPM is just a guess that varies from meter to meter.
EC is always the same no matter what meter
judging from your ppms....you are WAYYYYY too high, imho.
this is why i warn folks about stink's formula, the man is a good grower..... its just no way you can mimic one's action unless everything is the exact same.
his meter may also be different (in reference to .5 scales or .7 scales or even the weirdo .6 scale)
judging from the previous pics.... i see heavy green...
but ill wait for more pics for further analysis
please stay away from ppm if you want accurate help from other folks. PPM is just a guess that varies from meter to meter.
EC is always the same no matter what meter
judging from your ppms....you are WAYYYYY too high, imho.
this is why i warn folks about stink's formula, the man is a good grower..... its just no way you can mimic one's action unless everything is the exact same.
his meter may also be different (in reference to .5 scales or .7 scales or even the weirdo .6 scale)
judging from the previous pics.... i see heavy green...
but ill wait for more pics for further analysis
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
it all depends on nute formula and regime
5mL is the base application rate which should be fine and never burn
10mL is the accelerated rate
most nute formulas lack cal and the mag, plus he is using RO water so 5mL is sufficient
grodrowithme
Well-Known Member
what is the majior difference between EC & PPM? as i thought they were about the same?
grodrowithme
Well-Known Member
i never use what they say on the bottle an 10ml sound way hi to me imho
but i see what your saying
but i see what your saying
grodrowithme
Well-Known Member
also just for the record im an all organic soil gardener! this is my first attempt at hydroponics as im still learning the ropes. and we got our first 3 trays in and the day we were putting in the 4th tray in we noticed something that looked like a seed. sure enough it was. so i brought them home to finish out. we are waiting on our other strains to get big enough to clone and make mothers. all so we can start back at square 1.
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
Parts Per Million (PPM) is actually a guess of EC (electric conductivity)
EC meters cannot measure RO water because no ions in the water...this is why most inline meters for RO systems are tds/ppm meters
but with solutions that have ions...its best to use EC
here's a great article you should read and share
http://www.getbluelab.com/Support/Understanding+what+ppm+scale+to+use.html
EC meters cannot measure RO water because no ions in the water...this is why most inline meters for RO systems are tds/ppm meters
but with solutions that have ions...its best to use EC
here's a great article you should read and share
http://www.getbluelab.com/Support/Understanding+what+ppm+scale+to+use.html
grodrowithme
Well-Known Member
thanks for the article some good reading for tonight! i belive thats were i was confused? its the TDS & PPM thats the same or about the same right? i run a 4 tray SoG with 30 gal res and flood & drain system. we have a ph & ppm meter. do you reccomend that i also buy and use an EC meter?
thanks for the help LOUD
thanks for the help LOUD
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
not a problem bro...always here to help.
as far as your wanting my recommendation....
if your wallet permits....hell yes. i recommend buying as many meters as you can especially if you have combo meters because sometimes on the combo meter if one side goes out, the other doesnt work.... or they arent replaceable probes
andddddd not to mention its always nice having more than one meter to calibrate one against another just to run a checks - n - balance type of system. yanno?
as far as your wanting my recommendation....
if your wallet permits....hell yes. i recommend buying as many meters as you can especially if you have combo meters because sometimes on the combo meter if one side goes out, the other doesnt work.... or they arent replaceable probes
andddddd not to mention its always nice having more than one meter to calibrate one against another just to run a checks - n - balance type of system. yanno?
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
because no matter how hard ya try to keep shit in check...
it sucks when you making fresh batch of nutes on a saturday night @ 3am and your meter breaks!!!!! i like to have protection.... like a condom...better to have em and not need em then to need em and not have em
it sucks when you making fresh batch of nutes on a saturday night @ 3am and your meter breaks!!!!! i like to have protection.... like a condom...better to have em and not need em then to need em and not have em
jberry
Well-Known Member
you can convert your ppm's to EC
if you have a HANNA meter... (0.5 setting typical) than 1400 ppm = a EC of 2.8
Eutech meter (0.64 setting)... 1408 ppm = a EC of 2.2
Truncheon meter (0.70) ... 1400 ppm = a EC of 2.0
1400 sounds okay but i remember a while back you said you were running 2000 ppm's... thats a EC off the 4.0 (Hanna) and thats waay too high imo.
As for the mites, dont mess around... get some Floramite and a Jr. Fogger and i promise you they will be gone for a good 30-45 days, and maybe forever. You really want to nip that in the bud b4 they lay eggs in every nook n cranny.
Trust me Floramite and a good fine mist or fog.
if you have a HANNA meter... (0.5 setting typical) than 1400 ppm = a EC of 2.8
Eutech meter (0.64 setting)... 1408 ppm = a EC of 2.2
Truncheon meter (0.70) ... 1400 ppm = a EC of 2.0
1400 sounds okay but i remember a while back you said you were running 2000 ppm's... thats a EC off the 4.0 (Hanna) and thats waay too high imo.
As for the mites, dont mess around... get some Floramite and a Jr. Fogger and i promise you they will be gone for a good 30-45 days, and maybe forever. You really want to nip that in the bud b4 they lay eggs in every nook n cranny.
Trust me Floramite and a good fine mist or fog.
grodrowithme
Well-Known Member
i read that article it helped a little. on our meters,i think it may be only one of them, but it came with 2 different calabration solutions. i think its .5 and .7 so does that cover the 500 and 700 scale that its talking about?
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
okay bro....
i went digging cuz you know im impatient like that plus i realize you're a stoner and forget to update your sig
anywho....
if the plants are still looking like this picture:
well they look like they are o2 starved which in turn is causing them to be overwatered.
i've also looked at your roots..... the rhizo is doing a great job, however it looks as if the roots were shittier than you told me. im guessing they came from the club looking like that.
i know you are going to shoot me....but i did recommend Roots Excellator over the Rhizo (even though im using rhizo until i run out and can buy some Roots excell)
however, RHIZO IS GREAT...BUT it does fall short when compared to Roots Excell for the simple fact of the Roots Excell is like RHizo on steroids. The Roots excell can rid root rot and Rhizo cannot.
sad to say it but you seem to have a slight case of root rot (pythium) aka oxygen starved. and pythium doesnt go away on its on, you have to fix it.
you have two options..... the nicer gentlier approach = Roots Excellator and keep your res at 68F or below....NO HIGHER THAN 68F no lower than 60F (even though i've seen some folks with success in the 50F) however no need to go that low as maximum DO(dissolved oxygen) is achieved at around 65 i blv...which is 14 ppms of DO.
the second approach is the nuke option. its called Physan 20....it will whip out any yuckies period. but go lite...very lite as they will be a tad bit shocked by it
i went digging cuz you know im impatient like that plus i realize you're a stoner and forget to update your sig
anywho....
if the plants are still looking like this picture:
well they look like they are o2 starved which in turn is causing them to be overwatered.
i've also looked at your roots..... the rhizo is doing a great job, however it looks as if the roots were shittier than you told me. im guessing they came from the club looking like that.
i know you are going to shoot me....but i did recommend Roots Excellator over the Rhizo (even though im using rhizo until i run out and can buy some Roots excell)
however, RHIZO IS GREAT...BUT it does fall short when compared to Roots Excell for the simple fact of the Roots Excell is like RHizo on steroids. The Roots excell can rid root rot and Rhizo cannot.
sad to say it but you seem to have a slight case of root rot (pythium) aka oxygen starved. and pythium doesnt go away on its on, you have to fix it.
you have two options..... the nicer gentlier approach = Roots Excellator and keep your res at 68F or below....NO HIGHER THAN 68F no lower than 60F (even though i've seen some folks with success in the 50F) however no need to go that low as maximum DO(dissolved oxygen) is achieved at around 65 i blv...which is 14 ppms of DO.
the second approach is the nuke option. its called Physan 20....it will whip out any yuckies period. but go lite...very lite as they will be a tad bit shocked by it
LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
okay wait....i just remember that you use liquid karma and all that jazz
i forgot that can stain your roots too.....
so dont get too juiced off my words just yet..... just watch and see.... the staining of the karma will be different than the pythium you will see brown slime
i forgot that can stain your roots too.....
so dont get too juiced off my words just yet..... just watch and see.... the staining of the karma will be different than the pythium you will see brown slime
greenthumb111
Well-Known Member
LB much respect for all your info on this system and growing in general.
Some clarification on ppm and TDS. As far as water quality, ppm is just a unit of measure, parts per million and in water quality a measure of TDS or total dissolved solids. This not only includes NPK salts but all dissolved trace minerals like Ca, Mg and whatever else is dissolved in your water. If you let the water evaporate what is left in the glass is the dissolved solids.
EC is, as the article states, the measure of the waters capacity to carry electricity or the measure of the waters saltiness. Related to the salt content of the water is the quantity of NPK salts as well as some other salts. The saltier the water the better it conducts electricity.
RO water is not pure water. There are ions in RO. They are the ones that can pass through the RO membrane. Pure water is distilled water. Deionized water (DI water) is water without ions. As your RO sustem ages, more ions and salts pass through the system and the TDS and EC increases.
You have recommended 2 meters and that is the best recommendation going. Another recommendation is to calibrate before and during use.
One thing I need to mention is never pour the calibration solutions back into the container. They used calibration solutions, following use (you can use them 2-3 times in the same container during calibration) they should be discarded.
Sorry SOG didnt mean to jack the thread. Hope this helped in some way. Just my 2 cents.
jberry
Well-Known Member
as for the cal/mag, i had the same problem when i tried using anywhere near 10 ml with every feed (way too much).
i found its way more precise/safer to go off the ppm's... i allow 150 -250 ppm of cal/mag with every watering...
if you want your ppm's at 1200 than add yer base nutes/additives until your at 1000 ppm than add cal/mag slowly checking ppm's until at 1200... easy cheesy.
i found its way more precise/safer to go off the ppm's... i allow 150 -250 ppm of cal/mag with every watering...
if you want your ppm's at 1200 than add yer base nutes/additives until your at 1000 ppm than add cal/mag slowly checking ppm's until at 1200... easy cheesy.