Assorted questions Ive been wondering...

[gotcottonmouth]

Ive been wondering some stuff and they're all kind of "out there" so just bare with me.

1.
If we control the light schedule, why are we sticking to a 24 hr clock? I was thinking this might be particularly useful for AF strains because they are less dependent on light schedule by their nature. What might happen if you use 20-2 light schedule? Doesn't seem like a big difference but that's 2 hours sooner that they will get light every day, 14 hours light a week extra... almost a whole "day"

2.
If AF strains finish in about 8-10 weeks usually and CO2 can increase plant production up to 250% (mathematically speaking but not very realistic), how fast do you think you can go from seed to chop in optimal environment with AF strains?

3.
Is dry ice a viable source of CO2 or is it too expensive.

4.
Say, hypothetically, you have a CFL HPS and MH light setup. All of which have 30,000 lumens output and are the same Kelvin rating.
Heat and energy efficiency aside, would they all benefit the plant equally? Or are there other features that distinguish lights from eachother.
I understand HPS and MH don't come in equal K but hypothetically....

5.
Wouldn't it be better to put the lights below the plant so less energy would be spent in transferring nutes against gravity... impractical but if someone could build it then hooraa!

just food for thought

 

[Mysticlown150]

Hps put out more lumens per watt than an mh so it's not just the k rating. I'm to stoned to answer other ?'s

 

[zechbro]

Ive been wondering some stuff and they're all kind of "out there" so just bare with me.

1.
If we control the light schedule, why are we sticking to a 24 hr clock? I was thinking this might be particularly useful for AF strains because they are less dependent on light schedule by their nature. What might happen if you use 20-2 light schedule? Doesn't seem like a big difference but that's 2 hours sooner that they will get light every day, 14 hours light a week extra... almost a whole "day"

that question doesnt make any sense to me...

2.
If AF strains finish in about 8-10 weeks usually and CO2 can increase plant production up to 250% (mathematically speaking but not very realistic), how fast do you think you can go from seed to chop in optimal environment with AF strains?

my kowledge of af is that they still take about 7 weeks from when the first start to flower so 8 seems the min, i week to crack the shell veg a lil then start nugging... but im not 100% sure on this..

3.
Is dry ice a viable source of CO2 or is it too expensive.

you have to keep it real cold, and that in itself is expensive... special grow room candles or the sugaer and yeast mix are best and a heck of alot cheaper

4.
Say, hypothetically, you have a CFL HPS and MH light setup. All of which have 30,000 lumens output and are the same Kelvin rating.
Heat and energy efficiency aside, would they all benefit the plant equally? Or are there other features that distinguish lights from eachother.
I understand HPS and MH don't come in equal K but hypothetically....

the strength of light is differant... for example cfls are only good if they are within a few inches of the plant where as mh or hps have more penertration power.... and also 40hps is relatively small compared to trying to hang 20 20watt cfls or even 4 11ow....

5.
Wouldn't it be better to put the lights below the plant so less energy would be spent in transferring nutes against gravity... impractical but if someone could build it then hooraa!

ask some one smarter, but i think you mean if its hung upside down... dunno but it be a real pain the arse...
just food for thought[/quote

 

[simpsonsampson420]

1.
If we control the light schedule, why are we sticking to a 24 hr clock? I was thinking this might be particularly useful for AF strains because they are less dependent on light schedule by their nature. What might happen if you use 20-2 light schedule? Doesn't seem like a big difference but that's 2 hours sooner that they will get light every day, 14 hours light a week extra... almost a whole "day"

if you use a 24/0 cycle to veg then you get 100% light all the time... so the idea of 20/2 makes little sense since you have the option of no dark if you want... as far as autoflowers go, since they will flower under any light cycle regardless, trying to change the amount of light they get, ie 20/2, would make no difference.. they are gonna flower no matter what.. a 20/2 cycle would work.. but over time the period would move... since there are 24 hours in a day, and you are taking 2 away everyday, the light cycle would move forwards 2 hours a day, meaning if you started with you lights on at 10 am, eventually it would become 10 pm when lights come on.. which could mean a big inconvience should you need to work in your garden.. but really, there is no viable reasoning to switch to a 20/2 cycle when you could do a 24/0, 23/1, 22/2, and still maintain 24 hour cycle...


2.
If AF strains finish in about 8-10 weeks usually and CO2 can increase plant production up to 250% (mathematically speaking but not very realistic), how fast do you think you can go from seed to chop in optimal environment with AF strains?

autoflowers, by design, will only flower when they are ready and are done when they are done... you have no control over anything about them except the light cycle you put them under and the amount of light you give them.. both of which will affect yield... but co2 enrichment will not make them ready to chop any earlier... it will just help get everything out of the plant, as far as growth goes, that the plant can give...


3.
Is dry ice a viable source of CO2 or is it too expensive.

its expensive and a pain in the ass but does work.. not at all cost effective in anyway.. get a co2 regulator and a tank.. your much better off.. initial investement is a little more, but will pay for itself very quickly...

4.
Say, hypothetically, you have a CFL HPS and MH light setup. All of which have 30,000 lumens output and are the same Kelvin rating.
Heat and energy efficiency aside, would they all benefit the plant equally? Or are there other features that distinguish lights from eachother.
I understand HPS and MH don't come in equal K but hypothetically....

ok.. to answer this question.... yes and no... yes if you have the right floros.. no if you dont... 9 times out of 10 HIDs will grow much better and penetrate much deeper than cfls/floros... cfls and floros do not penetrate near as far into the canopy as HIDs because it takes less energy to make the light with cfls and floros than it does HIDs.. now the exeception is these http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?t=prod&sku=SSG104&AC=1... they are just as good as an equivilant HID... it really comes down to the amount of energy it takes to emit the light from the light source and how far it will penetrate into the canopy... HIDs just take more energy to produce their light which means they are better suited to penetrate into a canopy...


5.
Wouldn't it be better to put the lights below the plant so less energy would be spent in transferring nutes against gravity... impractical but if someone could build it then hooraa!


plants grow towards lights.. if you put the light source below the plants it would cause a couple issues.. first the amount of light the plant actually recieves that is usable will be WAY below what it needs for good growth since its only reflected light they would recieve... 2nd issue would be that even if it did grow it would grow downwards to the light, not upwards... i guess that isnt as much of an issue assuming that there is enough room between the pot and light source for the plant to grow... i dont see why it wouldnt/couldnt grow that way... but the biggest issue would be that the pot, which holds the roots, is now going to get heated.... the hotter the pot gets the warmer the growing medium gets... get to warm and it will cook your roots... which will kill your plants.. not to mention when you water if the pot is draining its draining down towards your lights...

 

[gotcottonmouth]

1.
If we cont...
if you use a 24/0 cycle to veg then you get 100% light all the time... so the idea of 20/2 makes little sense since you have the option of no dark if you want... as far as autoflowers go, since they will flower under any light cycle regardless, trying to change the amount of light they get, ie 20/2, would make no difference.. they are gonna flower no matter what.. a 20/2 cycle would work.. but over time the period would move... since there are 24 hours in a day, and you are taking 2 away everyday, the light cycle would move forwards 2 hours a day, meaning if you started with you lights on at 10 am, eventually it would become 10 pm when lights come on.. which could mean a big inconvience should you need to work in your garden.. but really, there is no viable reasoning to switch to a 20/2 cycle when you could do a 24/0, 23/1, 22/2, and still maintain 24 hour cycle...
Ohhhh ok that makes sense, I was just over complicating things. Basically, you can get the extra 14 hrs a week by using 22/2 and you dont have to mess up the schedule..

2.
If AF strains finish in about 8-10 weeks us...
autoflowers, by design, will only flower when they are ready and are done when they are done... you have no control over anything about them except the light cycle you put them under and the amount of light you give them.. both of which will affect yield... but co2 enrichment will not make them ready to chop any earlier... it will just help get everything out of the plant, as far as growth goes, that the plant can give...
So it will just make the plants "digest" better, not grow faster. getcha.

3.
Is dry ice ...
its expensive and a pain in the ass but does work.. not at all cost effective in anyway.. get a co2 regulator and a tank.. your much better off.. initial investement is a little more, but will pay for itself very quickly...
Yea, I forgot about storage...

4.
Say, hypot...
ok.. to answer this question.... yes and no... yes if you have the right floros.. no if you dont... 9 times out of 10 HIDs will grow much better and penetrate much deeper than cfls/floros... cfls and floros do not penetrate near as far into the canopy as HIDs because it takes less energy to make the light with cfls and floros than it does HIDs.. now the exeception is these http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?t=prod&sku=SSG104&AC=1... they are just as good as an equivilant HID... it really comes down to the amount of energy it takes to emit the light from the light source and how far it will penetrate into the canopy... HIDs just take more energy to produce their light which means they are better suited to penetrate into a canopy...
Ok so HID lighting penetrates the canopy better, thats what I was wondering. Those are some wicked CFLs there...

5.
Wouldn't it be....
plants grow towards lights.. if you put the light source below the plants it would cause a couple issues.. first the amount of light the plant actually recieves that is usable will be WAY below what it needs for good growth since its only reflected light they would recieve... 2nd issue would be that even if it did grow it would grow downwards to the light, not upwards... i guess that isnt as much of an issue assuming that there is enough room between the pot and light source for the plant to grow... i dont see why it wouldnt/couldnt grow that way... but the biggest issue would be that the pot, which holds the roots, is now going to get heated.... the hotter the pot gets the warmer the growing medium gets... get to warm and it will cook your roots... which will kill your plants.. not to mention when you water if the pot is draining its draining down towards your lights...
Heat rises... foiled again.. And for some reason in my head I was thinking the roots would grow upwards but thatll never happen... Seems like a hassle and wouldnt effect yield any im sure. Would look neat though.

Thanks +rep

 

[Sandman45]

Thanks +rep

Word up. No shit.

 

[Sandman45]

Thinking about his question of going 24/0 instead of like 22/0... What if that same concept was applied to the flowering period? I mean, instead of 12/12, why not 13/11 or even 14/10? What does that do? Surely someone here has tried it....

 

[tahoe58]

Ive been wondering some stuff and they're all kind of "out there" so just bare with me.

1.
If we control the light schedule, why are we sticking to a 24 hr clock? I was thinking this might be particularly useful for AF strains because they are less dependent on light schedule by their nature. What might happen if you use 20-2 light schedule? Doesn't seem like a big difference but that's 2 hours sooner that they will get light every day, 14 hours light a week extra... almost a whole "day" I believe this has been debated over decades, and if I am remembering correctly, the 18-6 and 12-12 still rank among the top for all aspects (potency, yeild whatever ur after)

2.
If AF strains finish in about 8-10 weeks usually and CO2 can increase plant production up to 250% (mathematically speaking but not very realistic), how fast do you think you can go from seed to chop in optimal environment with AF strains? CO2 definately adds to the recipe - like I always say - supercharging/turbocharging the processes - just must accommodate the added need for light, water, air, and nutes. my system says it runs at 1600ppm (ambient 300-400ppm). never measured, but results are more than satisfactory for my purposes.

3.
Is dry ice a viable source of CO2 or is it too expensive. not sure if that would be economically viable or not. lots of people use the baking soda-sugar-water-yeast in a coke bottle. it works but less consistent and reliable than a more fabricated pressureized system.

4.
Say, hypothetically, you have a CFL HPS and MH light setup. All of which have 30,000 lumens output and are the same Kelvin rating.
Heat and energy efficiency aside, would they all benefit the plant equally? Or are there other features that distinguish lights from eachother.
I understand HPS and MH don't come in equal K but hypothetically.... light intensity and spectrum are important as well as kelvins.

5.
Wouldn't it be better to put the lights below the plant so less energy would be spent in transferring nutes against gravity... impractical but if someone could build it then hooraa! that ones a stretch for me .....

good luck with ur grow.

just food for thought

 

[simpsonsampson420]

Thinking about his question of going 24/0 instead of like 22/0... What if that same concept was applied to the flowering period? I mean, instead of 12/12, why not 13/11 or even 14/10? What does that do? Surely someone here has tried it....

you can alter the flowering light cycle a little bit... the critical photo period for most strains of marijuana is 14 hours or less of light to flower.. so some strains can flower with a 14/10 light cycle.. some can flower at 13/11... 12/12 is just a 100% for sure light cycle to flower with... its not really worth messing to much with the flowering cycle tho.. the extra light you get over the flowering isnt enough to really do anything extra for you.. plus, i believe from experinece, if your strain isnt meant for more than 12 hours of light during flowering it can increase the chance of a hermies... the only thing it really does is maybe make you able to chop a little early.. maybe a day or two at the most.. ive tried a couple different flowering light cycles and got my best results with 12/12... thats just my experience tho..

 

[KaleoXxX]

what do you want to do? just take 2 hours out of the day? thats wierd

 

[Skryptz]

^^^ was thinkin what happens to the other 2 hours of a 20/2 cycle?

 

[Sandman45]

^^^ was thinkin what happens to the other 2 hours of a 20/2 cycle?

My mistake was a typo. Meant to say 22/2, not 22/0-.

Thanks

 

[bulletproofhoodies]

another difference between cfs, hps, mh is the spectrum of colors they produce. ike how its good for your plants to veg under a mh and flower under the hps thats why conversion bulbs are so popular