SoG Grow Room Discussion

bryant228

Well-Known Member
Finaly got a chance to check out your thread. Wow, just wow. You really worked your ass off on this. I'm jelous of your space. I myself am growing in the attic, but it doesn't compare to your space. And my area is alittle more temporary, but same construction method. Check it out if you get a chance.
 

GypsyBush

Well-Known Member
Oh not much...

I'm bored... and I had another scare...

Things are changing...

I'm worried... and bored to be honest with you...

I live my op, but talk about a soul less little factory I have...

The numbers are good, but I'm bored and scared...:o imagine that..

So I have decide to mix things up a bit...

I'm gonna try my hand at trees...

If I can still manage a pound every two weeks, I think I wil be much less sacred of 3~4 plants as opposed to 200+...

Well see...

I started a new room..

Here's my Gypsy Queen..

Some veg and training and she should be a big one...:clap:

I have her in a 19 gallon hydroton filled pot... top feed right now... but I will be switching to Ebb Flow when I get something to act as a tray for that pot;-)...

Sorry to bring my non-sense here, but I thought you'd like to know...:-P

 

SOG

Well-Known Member
I'm gonna try my hand at trees...

If I can still manage a pound every two weeks, I think I wil be much less sacred of 3~4 plants as opposed to 200+...

sweet bra
nice and clean, i beet this lady has the hots for ya, 4 sure ;-)

why don't you give FIMMING a go to increase yield,
instead of growing trees?:weed:




:joint::peace:
 

GypsyBush

Well-Known Member
Fimming gives you multiple tops right?

I splayed her open yesterday...

She is a circle about 55" in diameter, with about 60 or so will be tops...

She will get every branch pruned to single cola..

So if all goes well. I should maintain my ops g/w... or close anyways...

This tree, I am being coached by 2 pound a plant MBlaze...

So I am following him just like I followed Al.... blindly..;-)

We'll see what happens...:lol:

Cheers Bro!

How you been anyways?
 

SOG

Well-Known Member
keeping busy here with the Icebox
should be running smooth in a day or two

i was talking about Fimming from day one,
saw the same results with my past soil grow as MBlaze does (very nice thread btw)

I'm throwing another twist to my grow this time around,
combining Fimming & SoG grow styles together




:joint::peace:
 

DWR

Well-Known Member
HEy SoG your one hell of a grower :) love the build up to whats now.

great shit, i askd for some help about 10 days ago, sorry that i didnt post straight away, still was trying to think of things myself..

What do you say i buy some infrared masking and put it in this room, it says you need to install a 2cm wide wooden frame below it for it to work, i have a wooden room, do i still need the 2cm wide wood for this to work :



I've got an atic, i could drill straight up towards the attic and have the hot air going out there and also have the air pulling from the window :D

what do you think !? :leaf:
 

SOG

Well-Known Member
What do you say i buy some infrared masking and put it in this room, it says you need to install a 2cm wide wooden frame below it for it to work, i have a wooden room, do i still need the 2cm wide wood for this to work
the key here is to create a second layer
shielding the signature from being discovered
that's why you need to keep a space between the installation

flir can pickup sig on external walls only,
when creating a second layer with 2' beams
your adding the second layer the flir cannot pickup
the foil then blocks the IR from picking the heat sig behind it only

remember, your external walls will not stop being hot
they will still show hot on flir, but not a grow room sig

you also need to install the foil with the reflecting side of it facing your property to protect
this will help spread the heat evenly across, to prevent heat spotting from being detected

the reflective side will distribute the heat evenly inside,
making the heat sig that's picked up on the external walls seem even

if you hit the foil as the first layer with flir, it will completely block IR and show a black patch instead
it will not block or hide the heat sig between it and a median wall!!!

in this case and in general heavy insulation will resolve this

in states that mandate a 40R/45R insulation code, flir is useless in these areas for any indoor detection ;-)


I've got an atic, i could drill straight up towards the attic and have the hot air going out there and also have the air pulling from the window :D

what do you think !? :leaf:
spreading the hot air into the attic should work fine,
I'm killing my heat with a dedicated AC unit and an icebox

I've heard of folks with access who directed their hot air into the main sower line

hope this makes sense




:joint::peace:
 

thecholochef

Well-Known Member
any plants in this mofo yet??? :wall: im ready to just give u 1 plant so we can atleast see something in there.. haha :fire:

lets see some green in that biatch! the natives are getting restless.

Chef
 

SOG

Well-Known Member
any plants in this mofo yet???
lol,
patience grasshopper ;-)
a batch should arrive shortly :rolleyes:

still battling with heat issue in the room
gonna have to move the chiller out of the room
there's no were close to the room to move it to; that's not crazy hot:wall:




:joint::peace:
 

bryant228

Well-Known Member
lol,
patience grasshopper ;-)
a batch should arrive shortly :rolleyes:

still battling with heat issue in the room
gonna have to move the chiller out of the room
there's no were close to the room to move it to; that's not crazy hot:wall:




:joint::peace:
Have any idea what is causing the heat issue? I know you said you have a ac unit for the room. Is your exhaust maybe pulling too much of the cool air out of the room? Also, you might have said earlier in the thread, but what size AC unit do yo have? Sorry, 131 pages is alot to look through.
 

SOG

Well-Known Member
Have any idea what is causing the heat issue? I know you said you have a ac unit for the room. Is your exhaust maybe pulling too much of the cool air out of the room? Also, you might have said earlier in the thread, but what size AC unit do yo have? Sorry, 131 pages is alot to look through.
i have two portable 14k BTU units, one for the main room and one dedicated to the flower room
i may just run them both as the main room cooling and just suck cool air when needed from the main room area
I'm going to insulate the exhaust and intake and see what happens
as they both run very hot, I'm venting them right next to each other into the attic
which is already running at 120+, I've been lazy going out there and run ducts for intake and exhausts away from each other

i'm trying to keep the chiller running in the room without venting it
i want to run a sealed setup as possible, i know i already cracked the room for the AC intake and exhausts; still i don't want to keep cracking holes

ooh i forgot to mention, i closed the house AC's support to the room
the room needs to be Independent







Probably his 4 1000 watter's LOL. and not to mension attics suck!
lights are still off, its the chiller running for 4 hours straight in a closed room to bring a 50 gallon initially down from 74 to 50
Icebox is off during this period, I'm about to run the test now and see what happens when the room temps equalize once the rez is cooled to 50
and the room temps are back down to 74




:joint::peace:
 

GypsyBush

Well-Known Member
wait... the chiller is making a lot of heat eh?!

Anyway to stick it behind the wall in the attic?

Make yourself a little door and put the heat generating stuff in there...

I dunno if that is even possible or feasible... but it was just a thought..

Cheers..
 

SOG

Well-Known Member
Anyway to stick it behind the wall in the attic?
i wish i could, the attic runs too hot for it to work in there
it will be extremely inefficient, and eventually shut itself down
to prevent damage to the unit at high temps



:joint::peace:
 

GypsyBush

Well-Known Member
i wish i could, the attic runs too hot for it to work in there
it will be extremely inefficient, and eventually shut itself down
to prevent damage to the unit at high temps



:joint::peace:
I see... even if the res it was cooling stayed in the room eh?!

I know what you mean though.. hot is hot... and just like the cold it takes a lot of BTUs to make it work just right...:eyesmoke:
 

DWR

Well-Known Member
the key here is to create a second layer
shielding the signature from being discovered
that's why you need to keep a space between the installation

flir can pickup sig on external walls only,
when creating a second layer with 2' beams
your adding the second layer the flir cannot pickup
the foil then blocks the IR from picking the heat sig behind it only

remember, your external walls will not stop being hot
they will still show hot on flir, but not a grow room sig

you also need to install the foil with the reflecting side of it facing your property to protect
this will help spread the heat evenly across, to prevent heat spotting from being detected

the reflective side will distribute the heat evenly inside,
making the heat sig that's picked up on the external walls seem even

if you hit the foil as the first layer with flir, it will completely block IR and show a black patch instead
it will not block or hide the heat sig between it and a median wall!!!

in this case and in general heavy insulation will resolve this

in states that mandate a 40R/45R insulation code, flir is useless in these areas for any indoor detection ;-)




spreading the hot air into the attic should work fine,
I'm killing my heat with a dedicated AC unit and an icebox

I've heard of folks with access who directed their hot air into the main sower line

hope this makes sense




:joint::peace:

yes, but i was unsure what you said about that black spot just showing up on flir..

so, i need to get that 2 cm insulation before i put that stuff up right ?

-

this sucks.......... i was just hoping to put that layer there because it allready wood :D

rofl.......... oh well, so your saying i should get myself something thats 2 cm wide for the whole room ?

-

What if i have cooltubes and the room temp is 28 degress will flir still detect ?

man i hate being paranoid !
 

SOG

Well-Known Member
man i hate being paranoid !
lol,
OK lets put things in place
if your being flired, your pretty much been discovered
and the local LEO is simply collecting evidence against you
how's that for paranoid ;-)

they need a warrant to flir anyone here in the USA
if they got one, they must have a reason

there are many ways to hide your heat sig, its not a big deal as it seems
if you can, take the route of an Icebox with a Sun Shield on top
with this combo, you will remove the heat, and block flir detection
the sun shield is equip with both heavy insulation and IR blocking layer

rule of thumb
IR foil will block F.L.I.R and other IR devices
as it bounces IR rays off of its own surface!!!

it does not and will not block or insulate the heat!

hope this helps to makes sense
as they want you to think it has more capabilities than it really does
existing information is deliberately kept vague, i believe its called scare tactics and PR by the company that sales the product ;-)

take a hit; calm yourself down, and grow safley :weed:


:joint::peace:
 

iloveit

Well-Known Member
SOG Now that the subject have been raised, Im thinking itll be beneficial to stick diamond mylar on all walls in the grow room to reflect light (which gives off heat) away from the property so decreasing heat signature. In other words the more reflective the mylar the better for your heat sig & plants. Whats your take on this?
 

DWR

Well-Known Member
lol,
OK lets put things in place
if your being flired, your pretty much been discovered
and the local LEO is simply collecting evidence against you
how's that for paranoid ;-)

they need a warrant to flir anyone here in the USA
if they got one, they must have a reason

there are many ways to hide your heat sig, its not a big deal as it seems
if you can, take the route of an Icebox with a Sun Shield on top
with this combo, you will remove the heat, and block flir detection
the sun shield is equip with both heavy insulation and IR blocking layer

rule of thumb
IR foil will block F.L.I.R and other IR devices
as it bounces IR rays off of its own surface!!!

it does not and will not block or insulate the heat!

hope this helps to makes sense
as they want you to think it has more capabilities than it really does
existing information is deliberately kept vague, i believe its called scare tactics and PR by the company that sales the product ;-)

take a hit; calm yourself down, and grow safley :weed:


:joint::peace:

bahaha :)

true... fuck it man, whats the worst thing that can happen they put me in jail with even more connections to come out with..

Its a win win situation :D - oh and if there's any rapist, i will pull there balls off there body... toke toke .... :D

:weed: Cheers for clearing it up, i just thought that flir can actually see plants and pot.. and growth.. not true then huh ?

and if heat is the thing it picks up then that stuff doesnt do anything, i think i allready knew this.... but you cant be any more carefull than you can :)

-

I have another question, i have stupid windows in each room, should i just block them out and search for another intake possibility ?

or should i build something over the window with a 125mm hole so that i can fit my ducting in there that pulls in fresh air.. the rest will go out up to the attic.. good idea, or not ???

How will i close the window again ?

this is my problem i have.. i dont want it open all the time.

:S

any help would be great ...
 

SOG

Well-Known Member
i have stupid windows in each room, should i just block them out and search for another intake possibility ?

or should i build something over the window with a 125mm hole so that i can fit my ducting in there that pulls in fresh air.. the rest will go out up to the attic.. good idea, or not ???

How will i close the window again ?

this is my problem i have.. i dont want it open all the time.

:S

any help would be great ...

build something over half the window to accommodate a duct flange
and close the other, or get a larger version of a laundry exhaust outlet
then drill your hole in the wall and leave the window alone
you can actually very easily do this, right under your window
if the house was built to code, you should have three beams spaced at 16' apart right under the window frame to accommodate your outlet flange

a pic of the window will help figure it out next
if these suggestion don't work for you


:joint::peace:
 
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