Are my plants going to die?

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Achzrine

Active Member
This is the first grow, and what seems to be my first problem and prob mistake.

My plant has turned brown in some parts, If i were to touch it, it would break off like its super dry, It first started out as i think, light green/yellow spots. Then turned in to this.

Im using general purpose potting soil, and perlight 50-50 mix
I water it every 2 - 3 days.

Its an auto flower blueberry strain, So since its auto flower i have the light on 24 hours a day.



Any help on determining the problem and a way to fix it would be great.
 
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Theflyingocto

Member
Achzrine said:
This is the first grow, and what seems to be my first problem and prob mistake.

My plant has turned brown in some parts, If i were to touch it, it would break off like its super dry, It first started out as i think, light green/yellow spots. Then turned in to this.

Im using general purpose potting soil, and perlight 50-50 mix
I water it every 2 - 3 days.

Its an auto flower blueberry strain, So since its auto flower i have the light on 24 hours a day.



Any help on determining the problem and a way to fix it would be great.
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How often do you water the plant? You may by underwatering, and it shouldnt be 24/0, no wonder its so weak. The lights should be on 20/4.
 
A

Achzrine

Active Member
20/4 ? Ill start that right away. I was told that auto flowers should be 24 hours a day to get the most from the.

Since they received so much light, is that why there so short? They get taller in the dark right?
 
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SunKissedBuds

Well-Known Member
have a diagnosis, solution and tip!

Diagnosis: well if the plant started off with the tips of the leaves being yellow and slowly spreading down the leaves i would say this is a Nitrogen(N) defficiency. if this isnt a Nitrogen(N) defficiency and the plants leaves began with yellow spots and have gotten that bad it could be bugs. spider mites possibly. the only reason i say this is because spider mites crawl all over the plants leaves and bite into them, sucking nutrients out of the plant that are vital to its life! is that a chunk that fell off the leaf or a missing chunk? if it just flaked off i wouldnt say its a bug problem. Also if your plant is very dry it will cause the plants leaves skin tissue to deteriorate and turn a rust color... if you see this at a later date be aware that it is cause from lack of humidity in your grow area.

Solutions: if the plant is determined as a Nitrogen(N) defficiency then there are simple solutions! When feeding your plant either use a plant food that is high in Nitrogen, Phosphate & Potassium<---(especially if its an auto-flower strain). quick run down; Nitrogen = promotes strong, healthy stem & leaf development
Phosphate = promotes strong, healthy root system development
Potassium = promotes thick, dense, healthy flower(bud) development
Nitrogen Supplement = Blood Meal, Fish Emulsion, Freeze-Dried Blood Worms, Worm Castings, Bat Guano
Phosphate Supplement = Bone Meal
Potassium Supplement = Pot Ash
For a Nitrogen(N) defficiency simply add a supplement listed above. It will not make the yellow go away but it will ensure your plant is getting the proper amount of nutrients needed for growth and will also prevent the problem from happening again or spreading. When a plants root system no longer has nitrogen to feed the leaves and stem it pulls the only nitrogen left from the lowest set of leaves to feed the top & middle of the plant. another rule of thumb is that when feeding your plants ferts or nutrients(nutes) never feed them the first 30 days of their growth and only use a quarter of the recommended dosage on the plant food instructions. gradually increase the amount of nutes or ferts further down the road.
if its determined to be a bug problem then you can find great natural remedies at your local walmart or target! i use a stuff called ecosense. its an insecti-soap. basically when this is sprayed on the pests it closes up the pours in which they use to breathe oxegen through. once their pours close up they can no longer exsist! you can follow the directions on this stuff! just make sure after you spray your plants you water down your soil well to make sure no insecti-soap is in the soil at full strength. also make sure to completely clean and sterilize your grow area to prevent the problem from happening again!
if you run into a humidity problem further down the road because your grow area is too dry this is what you will need to do. buy a thermometer that has a hygrometer with it. a hygrometer measures the percentage of humidity. very useful seeing that mary jane likes its humidity levels to be between 40% - 50%. Not too dry, not to humid! To increase humidity, simply add a cereal bowl or 2 with properly pH balanced water. when the grow area gets real dry and hot the plant will take in the water from the cereal bowls once the water is evaporated into the air. if your grow area is too humid then buy a cool mist humidifier/de-humidifier to control the levels

Tips: If using flourescents keep the lights 2" - 3" away from the plant to make sure its getting as much light as possible! also since its an auto-flowering strain you can leave your lights on 18 hours on/6 hours off. It will encourage faster, more rapid growth!

hope all that info helps! hahaha sorry i was very bored!
 
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SunKissedBuds

Well-Known Member
and they dont grow taller due to darkness! they grow taller when you place the light further away from the plants although you dont want you plants stem to be weak and top-heavy so its better to keep the light as close as you can to the plant! just make sure if using H.I.D. lights you arent putting the lights so close that its burning your plant! as a matter of fact now that im seeing the pic again it could also be a heat issue due to your lights being too close! what are you using for lights?
 
A

Achzrine

Active Member
Wow thanks for all the information.

Ok ..

The plant was started on may 27th. It was put in the petepellet. It took about a week to sprout.

I am using 4 23 wat CFLS. Im growing in a pc case for stealth reasons. The area is at a tempture around 80 deg's. The plants are about 2-3 inches away from the lights.

I have not started using nuts yet. But they are on order. Im going to be useing Fox Farms brand. Big bloom,Grow big and tiger bloom.
 
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Theflyingocto

Member
Achzrine said:
Wow thanks for all the information.

Ok ..

The plant was started on may 27th. It was put in the petepellet. It took about a week to sprout.

I am using 4 23 wat CFLS. Im growing in a pc case for stealth reasons. The area is at a tempture around 80 deg's. The plants are about 2-3 inches away from the lights.

I have not started using nuts yet. But they are on order. Im going to be useing Fox Farms brand. Big bloom,Grow big and tiger bloom.
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Any improvements from the time you changed the light cycle?
 
Jriggs

Jriggs

Well-Known Member
They do not look underwatered to me, just maybee to close to the light. I have grown blueryder before and did perfect with 24/0 light. I am no expert on cfl lights though i use a hps.

Lowryders can grow under any light schedule, I have experimented with a few (the worse was 12/12 from seed -- only got an inch tall under a 400 watt hps). The 24/0 I got the most dried weight out of per plant. (2.4 oz an the best) 18/6 only gave me 1.5 oz on the best one -- so you decide whats best.. never tried 20/4.


Fox farm nutes are a good brand, I use either them or advanced nutrients depending on what is cheaper at the time. Make sure you do not use full strenght right away.
 
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