Harvest a Pound Every Three Weeks!

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thecholochef

Well-Known Member
StinkBud said:
I would just leave them in the plugs. Stick the plug into the net pot and put a collar on.

You may want to put a stocking on the pump to catch the smaller pieces of the RR plug.
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well shit i wish i wouldve known that b4 i spent those hours carefully removing that fking thing... :lol:
 
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LionsRoor

Well-Known Member
thinkhigh said:
Good shit guys. I'm still learning. I have a question. I have a vented 600w HPS with a 6" centrifical inline fan on it. I pull air in from a boarded up window, through the light and out of the ceiling. The roof is A-frame shaped with nothing between roof and ceiling, but insulation. Air is released from the front and back at the end of the eaves. I also have a 4" inline duct fan pulling air from same window into room.
My humidity runs 60% or more regularly. For instance: it 65% in here now and 81degrees.

Do I need to keep the 4" fan pulling fresh air in or push it out to get my humidity down?
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Did I miss it, or do you not have exhaust? To get your humidity down, use a vortex-like fan to exhaust up and out of the room (into the attic or up through the attic out the roof is even better). Most people usually exhaust through a charcoal filter to remove odors along with the humid air. Without removing the humid air and exchanging it for dry air, the humidity will not go down - unless you use an AC and/or dehumidifier (sealed CO2 system).
 
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LionsRoor

Well-Known Member
pinner420 said:
Really nothing I guess but when mixing to the bottles instructions like the original post says it takes the ppm up into the 2800 range; however, hes advocating mixing in one gallon first then bringing up to 1800 or 2000 which is possible to do if your meter only goes to 2000. My test sachels say my meter is grooving nicely so I just have to adapt to the new mix at suggested range I'm not seeing any burning however so I think I'm safe to just roll 1800 on the lighter side of a botanicare run. Its just weird to me that their line bucks conventional wisdom but all they have posted in the FAQs that meters dont read our stuff accurately. I just have to trust their science is that what you've come to as well? Looks like some guys are just turning a blind eye to the ppms and just concentrating on the ph.
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I don't trust Botanicare as much as I do Stink!:?
 
D

DIRTHAWKER

Well-Known Member
LionsRoor said:
Hey Dirt - they've thought about this for ya... there is such a thing called a "deadband" this is the term used to define how far past your desired set point you want to cool, heat, or CO2 something... so if you have a "cooling" setpoint of 86, and a deadband of 3 - the AC would kick on at 86 and off at 83. The Sentinel has this deadband for all environmental parameters... in addition to the deadbands, there is something called "interlock" this allows you to lock or split items when trying to coordinate CO2 and exhausting. So... if you wanted your exhaust fan to go on when the temps got to 86 OR the humidity got to 60% - you could plug your exhaust fan into either the cooling or humidity receptacle and then set the interlock for cooling/humidity to "connect" and viola. Furthermore,there are settings for both day and night - as you need to mantain different temps and humidity at night (and CO2 does not run). Finally, the CO2 setting can be set to either "fuzzy logic" mode or "generator mode", this in conjunction with the CO2 deadband allows you to dial in your gassing to suit your needs.
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Hey Lion,, i just received my sentinel today.. im hooking it up tonight.. thanks for the tips. I was thinking of conseving energy for at least a few more weeks by just hooking the exhaust up as the cooling instead of the AC,,
it seems like i should deadband it to at least 6-7 so it will have time for the co2 to saturate before the temps get up and trigger the exhaust...does that make sense?

if i set it to 3 then i think the exhaust would probably come on too much..i could be wrong.
 
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valmeida

Active Member
Stinkbud,
I am 42 days into flowering and my babies look pretty good, but the stems are really weak! they are falling over big time. I have tied them but it seems like they should not be so skinny. is this normal with your system or did i miss a step somewhere?
 
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valmeida

Active Member
Stinkbud,
I am 42 days into flowering and my babies look pretty good, but the stems are really weak! the buds are falling over big time. I have tied them but it seems like they should not be so skinny. is this normal with your system or did i miss a step somewhere?
 
StinkBud

StinkBud

Well-Known Member
valmeida said:
Stinkbud,
I am 42 days into flowering and my babies look pretty good, but the stems are really weak! the buds are falling over big time. I have tied them but it seems like they should not be so skinny. is this normal with your system or did i miss a step somewhere?
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Some strains will always grow thin. Just make sure you tie them up well.
 
SpruceZeus

SpruceZeus

Well-Known Member
Heya stink, i just wanted to say i just read the Hightimes article and had a good laugh. Its like word for word off of here, but less concise.

Anyhow. Much love, props and respect for being a good ambassador for marijuana.

This buds for you!
 
L

LionsRoor

Well-Known Member
DIRTHAWKER said:
Hey Lion,, i just received my sentinel today.. im hooking it up tonight.. thanks for the tips. I was thinking of conseving energy for at least a few more weeks by just hooking the exhaust up as the cooling instead of the AC,,
it seems like i should deadband it to at least 6-7 so it will have time for the co2 to saturate before the temps get up and trigger the exhaust...does that make sense?

if i set it to 3 then i think the exhaust would probably come on too much..i could be wrong.
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Yo Dirt - sounds reasonable... I would be surprised if you didn't have to monitor and fiddle with the settings a bit to get it dialed in. See how your CO2 hangs out in the room, etc... it's nice to have a controller and actually see the PPM of CO2 in the room, huh? You can guess all you want with a timer, but nothing beats knowing.

Keep us posted on how you dial your environment in.

Where are you at on your SFV? Do you have any of that rooting, veging or flowering?
 
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LionsRoor

Well-Known Member
StinkBud said:
How about a 1000W MH instead. Better overall light spectrum and penetration.

Remember, you can never have too much light, only too much heat.

I personally don't care about efficiency because the value of the medicine far outweighs the cost of electricity.

Quality is the most important thing to me now. I don't really care how much stuff costs anymore. I try to find good deals but I never skimp when it comes to quality.

The more light you have, the denser/heavier your buds will be. You will also end up with quality buds over the whole plant and not just on top. Less popcorn.

StinkBud light motto:
Light is Right!:idea:
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Yeah, Dirt! A 1000 MH would be awesome! I want to get some of that spectrum going too - but not sure how I can add to my room layout.

Hey Stink, or anybody - do you think it would be beneficial to run MH lamps for the first half of flowering and then switch to HS to finish? I have a couple new ballasts that are switchable. I've never run an MH light before - but I have been seeing some stellar results by others using such a light (you included).
 
dagobaker

dagobaker

Well-Known Member
ok after months of work and every penny to my name spent im setup finally
here it is
i have 6 flowering units (and 6 veg and 2 cloners in other room) with co2 generator in a 10 foot by 12 foot by 7.5 foot room
the oldest unit is 6 weeks and 2 days of 12/12 (44 days if u can believe it) and im flushing with 15 gallons of rev os water and 12 oz of sweet berry
i can start chopping them next week if i want but will probably wait until the hairs are all orange/brown or trichs are 50 amber 50 cloudy
a few up close bud pics too
 

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StinkBud

StinkBud

Well-Known Member
LionsRoor said:
Yeah, Dirt! A 1000 MH would be awesome! I want to get some of that spectrum going too - but not sure how I can add to my room layout.

Hey Stink, or anybody - do you think it would be beneficial to run MH lamps for the first half of flowering and then switch to HS to finish? I have a couple new ballasts that are switchable. I've never run an MH light before - but I have been seeing some stellar results by others using such a light (you included).
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I think the best thing is having both type of lights together. The MH fills in where the HPS is weak.

I have my MH hanging over my new girls. I'm seeing shorter internode length during the stretch. Which makes sense because that's a trait of MH lights.

Once the girls spend three weeks under the MH they move right closer to the two HPS lights. They still get light form all three lights though.

In the final three week faze the plants are totally under the HPS lights. It's working great! 3- 1000W lights in a 7x8 space is a site to behold.
 
StinkBud

StinkBud

Well-Known Member
I haven't posted any new pics lately so I thought you might be curious.

I have a new strain in the far back right. I breed a Skunk #11 with my Blueberry. The buds are covered in crystals and smell heavenly! I'll let you know how they taste.

I'm calling the strain Sour Blue...
 

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