drying my buds got me confused,can anyone help

panta

Well-Known Member
i got these 2 strains drying in the same box same conditions,ones white russian the other euphoria DP,the WR is in for 5 days now and the euphoria 3 but the buds of the latter are crisp to the touch while the WR is more moist,how is this possible they are about the same density,on m last harvest i dryed the buds alittle to much dont wana do it again
 

panta

Well-Known Member
can i just pick off the smaller crispier buds and start curing them and then later add the others to the same jar
 

motif

Well-Known Member
can i just pick off the smaller crispier buds and start curing them and then later add the others to the same jar

thats what i would do, i just chopped trimmed and hung up half of my girl, 2 days drying still moist as shit, but my room is like 66-68 F ... COLD
 

panta

Well-Known Member
do u wait for the stems to become brittle and snap of bendy and the bus crisp,last time i felt the buds crispy bud the stem was still bendy so i lest it for another 2 days and then when the stem was dry the buds seem to be too dry
 

motif

Well-Known Member
yeah i dunno, this is my first time growing and harvesting, but i read somewhere fdd wrote when the buds get kinda crispy (not too crispy) and the stems are still bendy, take them down and put em in the jars. Bigger nugs take longer to cure. Open the jar each day and if it gets MORE mooist, take them out and let them dry another day or two. However if it is slowly dryng, just keep opening the jars a few times a day and leave it open for a few mins.

If you leave buds that are too wet in the jar and dont open it enough, mold will form and thus ruining your buds. It never hurts to open the jar too often.
 

Boneman

Well-Known Member
Drying and curing is an art that requires a bit of practice. Some dry faster then others and you just have to go with what you got. If they are dry enough, throw them into jars....simple decision.
 

Brick Top

New Member
This is just like déjà vu all over again.


Learn it, live it, love it.


Marijuana

Manicuring, Drying, And Curing Marijuana

Right after all the plants have been harvested, it is time to manicure them. Manicuring is simply cutting off the leaves that were growing from the buds. Cut off all the leaves surrounding the bud, so that just the bud remains.

Work over a glass table or some kind of smooth flat surface. This will make it easy to collect all the material that has been cut away from the buds. It is lower in THC than the buds, but rather than throw it away, you can use it to make
hash oil.

When manicuring the buds, use a pair of scissors with small blades (to reach hard to get leaves) that is comfortable on your hands. If you have a small crop, you can handle the plants with you bare hands. With a large crop, wear powder free
latex gloves.

The latex gloves will collect trichome resin in a similar manner to the way live marijuana plants are
rubbed to make hashish. The latex gloves have to be powder free or the powder will get mixed into the resin.
Do not touch anything other than the plants once you have put the gloves on. If you have to do something, remove the gloves you are wearing and put them in a plastic bag, prior to doing whatever it is that has to be done.

When finished, put on a pair of new gloves. Material on the first pair can be collected later. When you are finished manicuring all the plants, remove the gloves and place them in a plastic bag (to catch resin that drops off).

Put the plastic bag with the gloves in a freezer for 2-3 hours. The trichome resin can easily be peeled from the frozen latex gloves and consumed the same way you would use hashish.

If absolutely necessary, you can wait to manicure the buds. However, the job will take more time if you wait. Manicuring right after the plants are harvested will also speed the drying process.

Instead smoking marijuana directly after it is harvested and manicured, it is best to dry and cure it. Some new growers might be in such a rush to try the marijuana that they don't want to dry the crop, or they might be tempted to put buds in a microwave oven to dry them out.



Drying Marijuana After Harvest

You probably don't want to smoke marijuana that is harsh and bad tasting. If you do not take time to dry the bud, you will not get the best possible smell and taste your crop is capable of producing.

Proper drying and curing will also ensure maximum potency of the marijuana you have grown. Marijuana is not potent just after harvest. Some of the THC is in a non-psychoactive acidic form. Drying marijuana the right way will convert the non-psychoactive acidic compounds into psychoactive THC.

The area where the drying is done should be dark. Light and high temperatures (higher than about 80 degrees) will cause THC to break down into less desirable chemicals, this will lower the potency of the finished product.

A good way to dry the crop is to
hang the buds upside-down by the stem, from some string or wire. The drying marijuana must have some circulation blowing over it at all times. A gentle breeze that circulates over all the plants is necessary.

A fan or two will circulate air within the drying room. Fans will aid in drying the plants evenly, and reducing the chances of mold. If mold starts and is allowed to grow, it might ruin all of your crop. Mold looks like white fuzz and has an odor that is unpleasant.

You will have to keep the temperature and humidity within a certain range for optimal results. Conditions should remain constantly somewhere within the following ranges, temperature should be between 65-75 degrees F, relative humidity should be between 45%-55%.

At temperatures lower than 65 degrees, drying time will be lengthened. At temperatures higher than 75 degrees, the heat will cause the outer portion of the bud to dry quicker than the inner part, and the taste will suffer.

At humidity levels lower than 45%, the marijuana will dry too fast and the taste will suffer. At humidity levels higher than 55%, the marijuana will take a long time to dry, and it will be prone to mold.

Keep a hygrometer and a thermometer in the drying area, close to the plants. A hygrometer will allow you to keep an eye on the relative humidity level in the room and a thermometer will display the temperature.
Some
hygrometers
have built in thermometers so you can measure the temperature and humidity together.


Depending on the
time of year and your location, a heater or an air conditioner may be necessary to adjust the temperature. To control humidity, a
dehumidifier can lower humidity and a humidifier can be used to raise humidity. There are warm mist humidifiers and cool mist humidifiers.

A warm mist humidifier will raise the temperature while a cool mist humidifier will not affect the temperature. There are also humidifiers that allow you to switch between warm or cool mist. If you are going to purchase a humidifier for this purpose, take your climate into consideration and buy an appropriate humidifier.

Warm mist models will actually heat the water and release warm humidity. Cool mist water isn't cooled, it just means that water is not heated. In most cases a cool mist will work best. To be safe you can get a humidifier that lets you switch between warm and cool mist.



Curing Marijuana

It will take at least a week or two to dry the crop with temperatures between 65-75 degrees F and relative humidity between 45%-55%. You will know when the marijuana is dry if the stems snap or break (rather than fold) when they are bent. Try smoking a small bud (1/2 gram or less) in a joint to be sure it is dry enough.

At this time, small buds will be dry enough to smoke. But larger buds should be cured (slow dried) to ensure that the marijuana is as potent and tasty as possible. If necessary, you can set aside buds that are less than 1/2 gram for smoking, while larger buds cure.

The cure lasts a week or two. The aim of what you are doing is evenly finishing the slow dry process, so that mold will not grow when the buds are stored long term. Also, by the end of the cure, any remaining inactive THC will be converted to active THC (that increases potency).


To cure the crop, you will need one or more containers made out of glass or plastic. Some people say plastic can impart a taste to the marijuana. Personally, plastic containers that some types of roll your own tobacco are sold in, have no negative effect on the taste.

Containers that have a rubber seal work best, but any type of container with a tight fitting lid will do. One quart
canning jars do a very good job if you are curing a few pounds or less. They have a rubber seal and hold 2 or more ounces of marijuana per one quart jar.

When curing quantities in excess of a few pounds, large (over 40 quarts) plastic
storage boxes
are recommended. They are not air tight, but will do the job when smaller air tight containers are not practical.


Gently place your marijuana in the containers (cut buds to size if the are too big to fit in the container) and put the top on. Store the containers in a dark area where the temperature is between 50-65 degrees and the humidity is between 40%-60%.

You will have to open the containers for a few minutes to allow moisture to escape by fanning with your hand. If any moisture builds up on the inside of the cap on your container, wipe it off. Do this preferably 2-6 times daily, at regular 4-12 hour intervals.

You should also re-arrange the buds by giving them a quarter-turn once a day. This will ensure that different parts of the buds are exposed to the air in the container. Keep up this routine for 7-10 days. When properly dried, marijuana will burn evenly when smoked in a joint (if stems are removed).

The taste will be as good as it can be, and the THC will have reached a point where it is ready to be ingested or stored. You can keep any marijuana that will be consumed within a few months (1 year maximum) in the same containers used for curing, without having to keep opening them to release moisture.

If the marijuana is to be stored for more than a few months, you can use a
vacuum sealer (designed for storing food) to seal the marijuana in an airtight environment. If stored in a dark area that is between 40-55 degrees F, the marijuana in vacuum sealed plastic will remain potent for up to 5 years.

Dry marijuana can be stored in a frost-free freezer, but some of the THC on the outer part of the buds may be damaged when frozen. A refrigerator is in the right temperature range but they tend to be humid (unless you can control the humidity).

If stored in an area of high humidity for months or years, even vacuum sealed marijuana can eventually become as humid as the surrounding air. This will necessitate drying it again before smoking. But, unless mold develops, humidity itself will not degrade the THC or make the marijuana any less potent.
Light will degrade some of the THC, so dark containers can be used for storage. If you place the marijuana in a see through container, it will have to be located in a dark area that is not exposed to light or high temperatures.

Always make sure too properly dry your marijuana prior to storage, if you grow your own or if the stuff you have is very moist. And remember that to preserve marijuana potency at a maximum level, keep any exposure to air, heat, and light at a minimum.

The end.
 

panta

Well-Known Member
This is just like déjà vu all over again.


Learn it, live it, love it.


Marijuana

Manicuring, Drying, And Curing Marijuana

Right after all the plants have been harvested, it is time to manicure them. Manicuring is simply cutting off the leaves that were growing from the buds. Cut off all the leaves surrounding the bud, so that just the bud remains.

Work over a glass table or some kind of smooth flat surface. This will make it easy to collect all the material that has been cut away from the buds. It is lower in THC than the buds, but rather than throw it away, you can use it to make
hash oil.

When manicuring the buds, use a pair of scissors with small blades (to reach hard to get leaves) that is comfortable on your hands. If you have a small crop, you can handle the plants with you bare hands. With a large crop, wear powder free
latex gloves.

The latex gloves will collect trichome resin in a similar manner to the way live marijuana plants are
rubbed to make hashish. The latex gloves have to be powder free or the powder will get mixed into the resin.
Do not touch anything other than the plants once you have put the gloves on. If you have to do something, remove the gloves you are wearing and put them in a plastic bag, prior to doing whatever it is that has to be done.

When finished, put on a pair of new gloves. Material on the first pair can be collected later. When you are finished manicuring all the plants, remove the gloves and place them in a plastic bag (to catch resin that drops off).

Put the plastic bag with the gloves in a freezer for 2-3 hours. The trichome resin can easily be peeled from the frozen latex gloves and consumed the same way you would use hashish.

If absolutely necessary, you can wait to manicure the buds. However, the job will take more time if you wait. Manicuring right after the plants are harvested will also speed the drying process.

Instead smoking marijuana directly after it is harvested and manicured, it is best to dry and cure it. Some new growers might be in such a rush to try the marijuana that they don't want to dry the crop, or they might be tempted to put buds in a microwave oven to dry them out.



Drying Marijuana After Harvest

You probably don't want to smoke marijuana that is harsh and bad tasting. If you do not take time to dry the bud, you will not get the best possible smell and taste your crop is capable of producing.

Proper drying and curing will also ensure maximum potency of the marijuana you have grown. Marijuana is not potent just after harvest. Some of the THC is in a non-psychoactive acidic form. Drying marijuana the right way will convert the non-psychoactive acidic compounds into psychoactive THC.

The area where the drying is done should be dark. Light and high temperatures (higher than about 80 degrees) will cause THC to break down into less desirable chemicals, this will lower the potency of the finished product.

A good way to dry the crop is to
hang the buds upside-down by the stem, from some string or wire. The drying marijuana must have some circulation blowing over it at all times. A gentle breeze that circulates over all the plants is necessary.

A fan or two will circulate air within the drying room. Fans will aid in drying the plants evenly, and reducing the chances of mold. If mold starts and is allowed to grow, it might ruin all of your crop. Mold looks like white fuzz and has an odor that is unpleasant.

You will have to keep the temperature and humidity within a certain range for optimal results. Conditions should remain constantly somewhere within the following ranges, temperature should be between 65-75 degrees F, relative humidity should be between 45%-55%.

At temperatures lower than 65 degrees, drying time will be lengthened. At temperatures higher than 75 degrees, the heat will cause the outer portion of the bud to dry quicker than the inner part, and the taste will suffer.

At humidity levels lower than 45%, the marijuana will dry too fast and the taste will suffer. At humidity levels higher than 55%, the marijuana will take a long time to dry, and it will be prone to mold.

Keep a hygrometer and a thermometer in the drying area, close to the plants. A hygrometer will allow you to keep an eye on the relative humidity level in the room and a thermometer will display the temperature.
Some
hygrometers
have built in thermometers so you can measure the temperature and humidity together.


Depending on the
time of year and your location, a heater or an air conditioner may be necessary to adjust the temperature. To control humidity, a
dehumidifier can lower humidity and a humidifier can be used to raise humidity. There are warm mist humidifiers and cool mist humidifiers.

A warm mist humidifier will raise the temperature while a cool mist humidifier will not affect the temperature. There are also humidifiers that allow you to switch between warm or cool mist. If you are going to purchase a humidifier for this purpose, take your climate into consideration and buy an appropriate humidifier.

Warm mist models will actually heat the water and release warm humidity. Cool mist water isn't cooled, it just means that water is not heated. In most cases a cool mist will work best. To be safe you can get a humidifier that lets you switch between warm and cool mist.



Curing Marijuana

It will take at least a week or two to dry the crop with temperatures between 65-75 degrees F and relative humidity between 45%-55%. You will know when the marijuana is dry if the stems snap or break (rather than fold) when they are bent. Try smoking a small bud (1/2 gram or less) in a joint to be sure it is dry enough.

At this time, small buds will be dry enough to smoke. But larger buds should be cured (slow dried) to ensure that the marijuana is as potent and tasty as possible. If necessary, you can set aside buds that are less than 1/2 gram for smoking, while larger buds cure.

The cure lasts a week or two. The aim of what you are doing is evenly finishing the slow dry process, so that mold will not grow when the buds are stored long term. Also, by the end of the cure, any remaining inactive THC will be converted to active THC (that increases potency).


To cure the crop, you will need one or more containers made out of glass or plastic. Some people say plastic can impart a taste to the marijuana. Personally, plastic containers that some types of roll your own tobacco are sold in, have no negative effect on the taste.

Containers that have a rubber seal work best, but any type of container with a tight fitting lid will do. One quart
canning jars do a very good job if you are curing a few pounds or less. They have a rubber seal and hold 2 or more ounces of marijuana per one quart jar.

When curing quantities in excess of a few pounds, large (over 40 quarts) plastic
storage boxes
are recommended. They are not air tight, but will do the job when smaller air tight containers are not practical.


Gently place your marijuana in the containers (cut buds to size if the are too big to fit in the container) and put the top on. Store the containers in a dark area where the temperature is between 50-65 degrees and the humidity is between 40%-60%.

You will have to open the containers for a few minutes to allow moisture to escape by fanning with your hand. If any moisture builds up on the inside of the cap on your container, wipe it off. Do this preferably 2-6 times daily, at regular 4-12 hour intervals.

You should also re-arrange the buds by giving them a quarter-turn once a day. This will ensure that different parts of the buds are exposed to the air in the container. Keep up this routine for 7-10 days. When properly dried, marijuana will burn evenly when smoked in a joint (if stems are removed).

The taste will be as good as it can be, and the THC will have reached a point where it is ready to be ingested or stored. You can keep any marijuana that will be consumed within a few months (1 year maximum) in the same containers used for curing, without having to keep opening them to release moisture.

If the marijuana is to be stored for more than a few months, you can use a
vacuum sealer (designed for storing food) to seal the marijuana in an airtight environment. If stored in a dark area that is between 40-55 degrees F, the marijuana in vacuum sealed plastic will remain potent for up to 5 years.

Dry marijuana can be stored in a frost-free freezer, but some of the THC on the outer part of the buds may be damaged when frozen. A refrigerator is in the right temperature range but they tend to be humid (unless you can control the humidity).

If stored in an area of high humidity for months or years, even vacuum sealed marijuana can eventually become as humid as the surrounding air. This will necessitate drying it again before smoking. But, unless mold develops, humidity itself will not degrade the THC or make the marijuana any less potent.
Light will degrade some of the THC, so dark containers can be used for storage. If you place the marijuana in a see through container, it will have to be located in a dark area that is not exposed to light or high temperatures.

Always make sure too properly dry your marijuana prior to storage, if you grow your own or if the stuff you have is very moist. And remember that to preserve marijuana potency at a maximum level, keep any exposure to air, heat, and light at a minimum.

The end.
i did read all that but what im trying to grasp is the right dryness of the bud before i put it in a jar,last harvest i overdid it,i was waiting for the branches to snap but the buds were to dry at that point,so when i compared it to some shit i bought i noticed that the branches were still a little bendy while mine were brittle

1 question when i check a bud thats drying and its crisp to the touch should i still smell some moister from it like grass,is that the right time to start curing
 

Douche Nozzle

Well-Known Member
I Thought my buds were to crispy on my first drying. They were super crispy and would just crumble if you squeezed them. I was pissed and thought I fucked them up but I put them in jars and about 4 hours later they were moist again. The grass smell on mine was pretty strong but started to get better and better by the day.
 

Kriegs

Well-Known Member
I'm having this issue, too.. my stuff seems to be drying a lot faster than what all the articles say... more like 3-4 days than 5-7. The 5-7 day dried stuff def seems crisper than it should, and so far, it hasn't recovered much moisture in the jars, if any. I think a lot of it is about the room you're working in ... warmer and drier room = shorter dry times. I'm moving my "transfer time" to jars up by a day or two. I think it just takes experience to deal with these little details.

I see now why RIU gets plenty of posts about "grass smell" -- mine went from a wonderful dank, fruity aroma to smelling like a hayfield ... yeccchhh. I am noticing an improvement in stuff that's been jarred for about a week now, tho.
 

panta

Well-Known Member
I'm having this issue, too.. my stuff seems to be drying a lot faster than what all the articles say... more like 3-4 days than 5-7. The 5-7 day dried stuff def seems crisper than it should, and so far, it hasn't recovered much moisture in the jars, if any. I think a lot of it is about the room you're working in ... warmer and drier room = shorter dry times. I'm moving my "transfer time" to jars up by a day or two. I think it just takes experience to deal with these little details.

I see now why RIU gets plenty of posts about "grass smell" -- mine went from a wonderful dank, fruity aroma to smelling like a hayfield ... yeccchhh. I am noticing an improvement in stuff that's been jarred for about a week now, tho.
yea definitly its all about experience im just trying to soak up as much as i can from the veteran growers so i dont mess up a harvest,some of mine took 8 days to dry some was there in 3-4
 

Brick Top

New Member
i did read all that but what im trying to grasp is the right dryness of the bud before i put it in a jar,last harvest i overdid it,i was waiting for the branches to snap but the buds were to dry at that point,so when i compared it to some shit i bought i noticed that the branches were still a little bendy while mine were brittle

1 question when i check a bud thats drying and its crisp to the touch should i still smell some moister from it like grass,is that the right time to start curing

The stem at the base of the buds should break when bent but not as in snap like a dry twig. If it is flexible enough to not break there is still enough moisture so if you cure and are not very careful and open your jars about every 12 hours or so for fresh air and to allow built up moisture to escape you risk mold.

A tiny bit of moisture left in the stems is not only not a problem but is something many like because that will be drawn into the buds so you still have soft buds instead of crumbly dry buds but there is no way someone can accurately judge the moisture content so you have to gain experience and fly by the seat of your pants and be careful and take every precaution to avoid mold and if you do that things will turn out as well as you can possibly hope for.

Different strains will to some extend be different and someone who used lower intensity lighting will have buds that are not as thick and heavy and dense as someone with higher intensity lighting so they will lose moisture at a faster rate than if the buds were denser.

So there is not exact singular way to dry and cure that is perfect for every single person in every single case. The basics will remain the same but some time periods will need to be altered in different cases and situations and strains and conditions.

The closer someone can stick to the information I previously posted the better off they will be but they do have to keep in mind that some things may have to be slightly altered from time to time and only experience will tell them what needs to be altered and when it needs to be altered.
 

BlackHit

Well-Known Member
I'm having this issue, too.. my stuff seems to be drying a lot faster than what all the articles say... more like 3-4 days than 5-7. The 5-7 day dried stuff def seems crisper than it should, and so far, it hasn't recovered much moisture in the jars, if any. I think a lot of it is about the room you're working in ... warmer and drier room = shorter dry times. I'm moving my "transfer time" to jars up by a day or two. I think it just takes experience to deal with these little details.

I see now why RIU gets plenty of posts about "grass smell" -- mine went from a wonderful dank, fruity aroma to smelling like a hayfield ... yeccchhh. I am noticing an improvement in stuff that's been jarred for about a week now, tho.

Ok this is waaaay off topic, but I just noticed that you have your street address listed in the location field? I know the law is going to change on Saturday and I'm assuming you will be fully legal/compliant, but do you think it's such a good idea listing your exact address like that? Like maybe its not a good idea to broadcast your location on the web for any LEO or worse for any rip-off artists or thieves to see? I don't know about you, but telling the whole world where to find not only myself, but my stash is no-no #1. I'm sure you have your reasons though so more power to you I guess...
 

Kriegs

Well-Known Member
Ok this is waaaay off topic, but I just noticed that you have your street address listed in the location field? I know the law is going to change on Saturday and I'm assuming you will be fully legal/compliant, but do you think it's such a good idea listing your exact address like that? Like maybe its not a good idea to broadcast your location on the web for any LEO or worse for any rip-off artists or thieves to see? I don't know about you, but telling the whole world where to find not only myself, but my stash is no-no #1. I'm sure you have your reasons though so more power to you I guess...
Yup.. that's my real address. Come and get me. :lol:
 

BlackHit

Well-Known Member
Yup.. that's my real address. Come and get me. :lol:


Well I'm not one of the ones you need to be worrying about, but hey whatever floats your boat :wink:. So let me ask you, are you planning on going to the Hash Bash this year? Should be a rocking good time now that Michigan joined the MMJ club :bigjoint:
 

Kriegs

Well-Known Member
Well I'm not one of the ones you need to be worrying about, but hey whatever floats your boat :wink:. So let me ask you, are you planning on going to the Hash Bash this year? Should be a rocking good time now that Michigan joined the MMJ club :bigjoint:
Actually, bro, I don't live anywhere near Michigan. I just thought it would be fun to post a real address as a joke. I do hope there is no such address in Kally.. for the sake of whoever lives there.

That said, I have to also say I am really jealous of MI medical MJ move. I was raised in Wisconsin right next door. At that time, there was no sense whatsoever that medical MJ would ever catch on in the Midwest.

So no, I won't be going to the Hash Bash... but I envy those who will be.
 

phil le b

Well-Known Member
i would say about 4/5 days in a well vented area ever plant grows diffent dry diffent and smokes diffent i had white widow and they took 5days to dry
 

Kriegs

Well-Known Member
i would say about 4/5 days in a well vented area ever plant grows diffent dry diffent and smokes diffent i had white widow and they took 5days to dry
Amen.. I've seen quite a range of difference just within my one strain. It's really just common sense, tho -- bigger, denser buds (ie top colas) need more time. Keep a close eye on your smaller, lower tier airy stuff -- that dries in a flash. Maybe as short as three days.

Patience is key. I now have some material that came down Mar 20th and has been in the jar since March 25th (2 weeks, basically) and it's just turned the corner. It was dry, crispy, and hay-ey smelling. It's regained some moisture and the smell is turning. When it first went in the jar, I thought it was doomed from over-drying.

This is my earliest-harvested, lowest-tier smoke. So, I've targeted this for consumption while I'm waiting on the "good stuff". The shit is really getting traction now... better every day. I put a couple buds in a baggie just to check their bag appeal -- looks more like "real weed" now, and the smell is kick-ass. A few days ago, I wouldn't have let anyone smell it - too embarrassing.
 

motif

Well-Known Member
also, dont keep a fan blowing DIRECTLY on the buds. you only want air to be blowing past them and removing moisture this way, otherwise they will dry wayyyyyy too quickly.\\

And if you have a jar full of crispy nugs and throw in a semi-moist nug in the jar, ALL THE NUGS WILL REGAIN MOISTURE.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
just an e z remedy to fixing crispy nugs... Or you can throw a tiny piece of a lemon or orange peel, but i wouldnt advise it....
 
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