sugar yeast mix in cloneing dome?
- Thread starter TTT
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smokeybandit22
Well-Known Member
I wouldnt do it, it will be a breeding gground for bacteria and mold, exactly what you dont want in a high humidity tent. if anything, they need more 02 for root development than anything
robert 14617
Well-Known Member
i personally would say not to, well i don't use a dome , so far i have 99% clone survival rate .the reason i say no is because ive read its better to keep the temp and lights at a lower rate to let the roots develop co2 is foliar food
TTT
Well-Known Member
hey robert if you have time can you in detail describe your methods of cloning at 99% im about to try it for the first time and im not very confedent any tips would be cool thanks budz
x=more
robert 14617
Well-Known Member
well lets see get your soil ready have a cup of water with just a drop of super thrive mixed in clean scizors sharp
i use his cutting technique
after clones are cut never let them dry in the air place them in cup of watter,i prep like he did with a powdered hormone then plant in my soil then lightly water with the cup of water with the drop of super thrive ,keep the soil moist they will droop for a few days but will perk back up they don't need extreme lights or heat i never use a dome,the soil i use is potting soil mix from my local nursery and about 35-40 % pear light no nutes for the firt few weeks until the plant comes out of shock and the roots have a chance to develop..good luck let me know how you do
i use his cutting techniqueafter clones are cut never let them dry in the air place them in cup of watter,i prep like he did with a powdered hormone then plant in my soil then lightly water with the cup of water with the drop of super thrive ,keep the soil moist they will droop for a few days but will perk back up they don't need extreme lights or heat i never use a dome,the soil i use is potting soil mix from my local nursery and about 35-40 % pear light no nutes for the firt few weeks until the plant comes out of shock and the roots have a chance to develop..good luck let me know how you do
TTT
Well-Known Member
thanks robert. so heres what I've done so far...my plant was about 14 in tall she is early skunk to be headin out doors in another 2 mths or so. i got around 11 good ones off her and 3 that i think im wastingmy time but i had the space in the tray so what the hell eh? I cut them with my fishing knife (closest thing to a razor I got)really sharp.and put them directly inta a glass of ph'd water once i was done cutting i pulled them outta the glass one at a time and dipped them into the gel and strait into the cubes when that was done i put the dome on them and put them on the lihgt shelf 2 4 ft t5's.turned the light on then i put a small space heater in with them with a big bowl of water to help bring out som humidity closed er up and now waiting for roots
robert 14617
Well-Known Member
How can I root quicker using cutting scarification?
The idea here is to scarify the stem of your cutting so that there is more area in which the cutting can have the opportunity to grow roots and therefore hopefully increase your rooting success rate. You will need a sharp razor blade and a flat surface to scarify your stem.
Scarification Procedure:
The first thing you do is cut your clone at a 45-degree angle; this will expose both the inner and outer area of the stem. Now lay your cutting on a flat surface. Visualize about an inch from the cut end and place your razor blade at this point.
Gently, and with the slightest pressure, push the blade to the end removing a fine outer layer of the stem. Don't be in a hurry - there is no going back. Gently scrape the stem with your blade until you can clearly see the internal tissue layers. You have just successfully scarified your cutting.
Cloning:
Now it is back to the regular cloning methods. Dip into your cloning gel or powder and place into rock wool, soil, water, peat pellet, or aero cloner. When dipping your stems into your preferred cloning solution, you will want to ensure that you get the very tip (remember the 45-degree angle cut) and the length, which you have scarred. I have used cloning powder for demonstration purposes so you can easily see where I have applied the powder to the cutting.
Rooting:
This last image shows a successfully rooted clone that has used this simple scarification method. As you can see there are roots that have emerged from the full length of the scarring and not just from the bottom. This will give your newly rooted plant a much better survival and initial growth rate.
This method is also very useful for hard to clone cuttings and woody cuts which do not take to rooting easily. It is also a good method to practice at all times and in general it greatly increases rooting success and shortens rooting time. Other tips that one can use for those stubborn cuttings are to cut the bottom of your stem into quadrants to expose more surface area. One could also scarify two or three sides of the stem as opposed to the one side illustrated here to really give an advantage to those stubborn cuttings that will just not take. Just remember when scarifying more than one surface it becomes crucial that removing too much material off any one surface will ensure failure.
Some plants which generally take around 8 to 10 days to root, once applying this method, it is not uncommon to have roots after 5 or 6 days.
One last tip, I like to soak my new cuts in a glass of cool tap water for 15-20 minutes before preparing them to root. The chlorine in the water will kill any bacteria present and the cool oxygen filled water will be absorbed by the plant, giving it lots of reserve strength to push out those roots.
Good luck and happy rooting!
i personolly dont use a dome and i think the heater will only dry your medium faster ,what are your temps at w/o the heater?
Contributed by: Leaf
Submitted: 02-10-2003
Submitted: 02-10-2003
Introduction:
The idea here is to scarify the stem of your cutting so that there is more area in which the cutting can have the opportunity to grow roots and therefore hopefully increase your rooting success rate. You will need a sharp razor blade and a flat surface to scarify your stem. Scarification Procedure:
The first thing you do is cut your clone at a 45-degree angle; this will expose both the inner and outer area of the stem. Now lay your cutting on a flat surface. Visualize about an inch from the cut end and place your razor blade at this point.
Gently, and with the slightest pressure, push the blade to the end removing a fine outer layer of the stem. Don't be in a hurry - there is no going back. Gently scrape the stem with your blade until you can clearly see the internal tissue layers. You have just successfully scarified your cutting.
Cloning:
Now it is back to the regular cloning methods. Dip into your cloning gel or powder and place into rock wool, soil, water, peat pellet, or aero cloner. When dipping your stems into your preferred cloning solution, you will want to ensure that you get the very tip (remember the 45-degree angle cut) and the length, which you have scarred. I have used cloning powder for demonstration purposes so you can easily see where I have applied the powder to the cutting.
Rooting:
This last image shows a successfully rooted clone that has used this simple scarification method. As you can see there are roots that have emerged from the full length of the scarring and not just from the bottom. This will give your newly rooted plant a much better survival and initial growth rate.
This method is also very useful for hard to clone cuttings and woody cuts which do not take to rooting easily. It is also a good method to practice at all times and in general it greatly increases rooting success and shortens rooting time. Other tips that one can use for those stubborn cuttings are to cut the bottom of your stem into quadrants to expose more surface area. One could also scarify two or three sides of the stem as opposed to the one side illustrated here to really give an advantage to those stubborn cuttings that will just not take. Just remember when scarifying more than one surface it becomes crucial that removing too much material off any one surface will ensure failure.
Some plants which generally take around 8 to 10 days to root, once applying this method, it is not uncommon to have roots after 5 or 6 days.
One last tip, I like to soak my new cuts in a glass of cool tap water for 15-20 minutes before preparing them to root. The chlorine in the water will kill any bacteria present and the cool oxygen filled water will be absorbed by the plant, giving it lots of reserve strength to push out those roots.
Good luck and happy rooting!
i personolly dont use a dome and i think the heater will only dry your medium faster ,what are your temps at w/o the heater?
TTT
Well-Known Member
temps probably around60 -68 ish but really dry humidity is around 15-20. but thanks for that tip I think I'll try that on the next round.now I got one more question.. the last clones I took were from the bottom to mid way up the plant and I cut pritty close to the stock will anyother branches grow from the lower or is that dead for new shoots and if its dead for new shoots is there a place to cut so the branches come back? thanks robert HUGE help have a good one bud