Hormones vs Co2 - Hormones Cheaper Potentially Yeild the Same!
- Thread starter eza82
- Start date
eza82
Well-Known Member
GREAT QUESTION..................
Estrogen AS FEED..
Estrogen (birth control pil;l) my research;.
"estrogen" actually refers to any of a group... of chemically similar hormones; estrogenic hormones are sometimes mistakenly referred to as exclusively female hormones when in fact both men and women produce them in humans/animals.
Plants have a different form;
Phytoestrogens (plant-derived estrogen are a variety of synthetic chemicals and natural plant compounds that are thought to mimic the female hormone estrogen.) ....
Plants contain many types of phytoestrogens; additionally, they contain minerals and other constituents.
Red clover, for instance, is mineral-rich and contains all four of the major types of phytoestrogens: lignans, coumestans, isoflavones, and resorcylic acid lactones but these are realativley un tested on flowering plants. Some have to be link to cancer like isoflavones....
to the point:
-Plant hormones, including most phytoestrogens anyways.
-Plants which are exceptionally rich in phytoestrogens are regarded as powerful herbal medicines. Plants which are good sources of phytoestrogens are regarded as foods.
So my suggestion is get RED Clover which is extrodinarly high in phytoestrogens, and emulsifie and water. Which would give you a result im sure if you feed enough of it....good or bad ???????
I think you would be better off useing a high k (or PHOS) NPK fertz, you will get better results.... get a really good food based organic fertz ie; fish emulsion.with high phos... But these would have tiny amounts of phytoestrogen.
Basically.... no need for extra phytoestrogen if you are doseing other hormones, the plant will naturally produce it......
I cant see it helping regardless of what people say, & there is no need.. Its not going to boost anything.... I cant see how the plant could use the chemicals involved.... there is only TRACE amounts in plants and they are not introduced they are produced.
THOUGH ITS PROVEN: AS SEED SOAK
SEEDS treated with the female hormone estrogen, percentage of females that are produced will increase by about 10%. Dissolve a birth control pill in water and soak the seeds overnight in the solution. After the initial soaking, continue to treat the seeds by sprouting them on a paper towel soaked in the solution
Hope that hepled make up your mind.........
eza82
Well-Known Member
FOR THE BASIS OF MY THEORY>WITH ALL ASPECTS FOR CONSIDERATION IN MARIJUANA GROWTH:
>THE FORMULA FOR GROWING BIG FAT STINKY FEMALES...................
PART 1# The basis of my theory
Hormones
Auxin would be released when cells contains more than enough sugar, and all other environmental conditions are favorable for growth.
Abscisic Acid might signal a need emergency action under most kinds of rapidly developing environmental stress, not just water shortages. ABA's main role is clearly resistance to drought conditions though. & ABA induced stomata closing. Considered an inhibitor.
Complimentarily, Salicylic/jasmonic Acids may be the hormones released when things are running normally and no special rapid response is needed from the plant. It might be the "feel good" hormone,
Cytokinin would be made when cells have enough nutrients of the sort normally provided by the root, mainly water and minerals and all other conditions are favorable for growth.
Gibberellin/Brassinostreroid would be made when mature cells have less than enough shoot nutrients, i.e. sugar and Oxygen to survive especially if environmental conditions are poor.
Ethylene might be released when mature cells are receiving less than enough nutrients normally received from the roots, mainly minerals and water, to support life at all, thus senescence of the cell is warranted. Again this effect may be accentuated by poor environmental conditions.
>THE FORMULA FOR GROWING BIG FAT STINKY FEMALES...................
PART 1# The basis of my theory
Hormones
Auxin would be released when cells contains more than enough sugar, and all other environmental conditions are favorable for growth.
Abscisic Acid might signal a need emergency action under most kinds of rapidly developing environmental stress, not just water shortages. ABA's main role is clearly resistance to drought conditions though. & ABA induced stomata closing. Considered an inhibitor.
Complimentarily, Salicylic/jasmonic Acids may be the hormones released when things are running normally and no special rapid response is needed from the plant. It might be the "feel good" hormone,
Cytokinin would be made when cells have enough nutrients of the sort normally provided by the root, mainly water and minerals and all other conditions are favorable for growth.
Gibberellin/Brassinostreroid would be made when mature cells have less than enough shoot nutrients, i.e. sugar and Oxygen to survive especially if environmental conditions are poor.
Ethylene might be released when mature cells are receiving less than enough nutrients normally received from the roots, mainly minerals and water, to support life at all, thus senescence of the cell is warranted. Again this effect may be accentuated by poor environmental conditions.
eza82
Well-Known Member
PART 2# Minerals & Micronutrients
The nutrient uptake by cannabis reaches it maximum just before maturity and blossoming.
Nitrogen and phosphorus uptake then increase up to 250%, and potassium requirements increase 400%.
The uptake of calcium and magnesium increases 150%. Additional amounts of nutrients must be readily available to the plants at that time in order to produce maximum yields.
Cannibis consumes about 1 kg of nutrients for each kg of bud it produces.
N
Causes cannabis to grow rapidly as seedlings, but the plants wilt, turn to copper-brown.
High levels of N in the middle of the growth cycle will cause water uptake to increase.Excess N added inhibits stem development.
Best results are obtained by adding half of the required N in the primary treatment, and the second half at the first feeding. If the initial growth of a plant is slow, it can be aided by a foliar spray
P : "To obtain high yields, it is necessary to assure the plants an easily accessible source of phosphoric acid
by applying granulated superphosphate (outdoors) at the very beginning of development, best absorption is before the plants have reached the phase of 6 pairs of leaves. concentration of THC are positively correlated with extractable phosphate. Cannabis uses 250% more phosphorus at flowering than during the vegetative phase
K
The absorption of K is most intense in the 4th week after germination. The supply of K should be reduced by 50% during flowering.
Ca
--- Calcium gives cannabis very strong, fibrous, short stems with dark green leaves and swollen flowers. An adequate supply is vital in the 6th-9th weeks of growth
Trace Elements
--- Micronutrient deficiencies often are caused by alkaline water, which prevents uptake by plants. Such deficiencies usually can be covered by the use of commercially available "transplanting solutions" and by adjusting the grow medium to neutral pH.
Mg --- Cannabis is very sensitive to magnesium deficiency, Cannibis has an extraordinarily high requirement for Mg, and is exceptional in comparison to most other plants, which are killed by applications of Mg alone. Combinations of K and Mg give the highest yields, which increase considerably with an increase in the MgA.
Haraszty conducted experiments for 10 years to augment the yield of Cannibis with macro- and micronutrients (tested in over 50 combinations). He found significant effects with formulations containing K, Mn and Mg (applied in the form of their sulfates at 10 kg/ha), by which he achieved up to 32% increases in quantity
Fe
--- Powdered magnetite (magnetic iron oxide) will supply sufficient Fe, and it stimulates plant growth by the effect of magnetic energy. 10 ppm of Fe gives the best growth ; 5 ppm gives the best yield for flower.
Mn
--- A deficiency of manganese will stunt the growth and flowering of Cannibis. Leaves appear mottled with grey-brown necrotic spots. The plants lack vitamin C; there are some deaths. Signs of deficiency first appear on shoots. Leaf margins remain green while the rest of the leaf turns yellow or white.
S
--- Sulfur stimulates root growth and seed production. S-deficient hemp is pale green, with purple veins. The stem is stiff, woody, and thin; the seeds are immature.
B
--- Boron . When sufficient P and K are available, an additional application of boric acid ,Cu-sulfate, and Mn-sulfate will produce a significant increase in yields and in the quality. A deficiency of B is revealed by cracked, stunted stems and dry rot. Leaves turn purple, terminal shoots curl and die, petioles become brittle, and the flowers are covered with dry areas. New shoots turn gray or brown and die with a burnt appearance. The situation can be corrected with a foliar spray of boric acid.
Cu
--- Cannabis does not have a high tolerance for copper, but supplementary Cu-sulfate will improve the quality and yield of cannabis, especially in peat, which often is deficient in this element. A deficiency causes stems to weaken and break.
Mo
--- A deficiency of molybdenum is indicated by yellowing between veins on leaves. The middle leaves turn yellow.
Zn
--- A deficiency of zinc is indicated by chlorosis between the veins at the base of shoots, and by the accompanying twist of leaf blades.
Flowering is inhibited. Over-watering produces symptoms resembling nutrient deficiencies or excesses. These usually can be corrected by reducing the water supply, or by drainage.
The nutrient uptake by cannabis reaches it maximum just before maturity and blossoming.
Nitrogen and phosphorus uptake then increase up to 250%, and potassium requirements increase 400%.
The uptake of calcium and magnesium increases 150%. Additional amounts of nutrients must be readily available to the plants at that time in order to produce maximum yields.
Cannibis consumes about 1 kg of nutrients for each kg of bud it produces.
N
Causes cannabis to grow rapidly as seedlings, but the plants wilt, turn to copper-brown.
High levels of N in the middle of the growth cycle will cause water uptake to increase.Excess N added inhibits stem development.
Best results are obtained by adding half of the required N in the primary treatment, and the second half at the first feeding. If the initial growth of a plant is slow, it can be aided by a foliar spray
P : "To obtain high yields, it is necessary to assure the plants an easily accessible source of phosphoric acid
by applying granulated superphosphate (outdoors) at the very beginning of development, best absorption is before the plants have reached the phase of 6 pairs of leaves. concentration of THC are positively correlated with extractable phosphate. Cannabis uses 250% more phosphorus at flowering than during the vegetative phase
K
The absorption of K is most intense in the 4th week after germination. The supply of K should be reduced by 50% during flowering.
Ca
--- Calcium gives cannabis very strong, fibrous, short stems with dark green leaves and swollen flowers. An adequate supply is vital in the 6th-9th weeks of growth
Trace Elements
--- Micronutrient deficiencies often are caused by alkaline water, which prevents uptake by plants. Such deficiencies usually can be covered by the use of commercially available "transplanting solutions" and by adjusting the grow medium to neutral pH.
Mg --- Cannabis is very sensitive to magnesium deficiency, Cannibis has an extraordinarily high requirement for Mg, and is exceptional in comparison to most other plants, which are killed by applications of Mg alone. Combinations of K and Mg give the highest yields, which increase considerably with an increase in the MgA.
Haraszty conducted experiments for 10 years to augment the yield of Cannibis with macro- and micronutrients (tested in over 50 combinations). He found significant effects with formulations containing K, Mn and Mg (applied in the form of their sulfates at 10 kg/ha), by which he achieved up to 32% increases in quantity
Fe
--- Powdered magnetite (magnetic iron oxide) will supply sufficient Fe, and it stimulates plant growth by the effect of magnetic energy. 10 ppm of Fe gives the best growth ; 5 ppm gives the best yield for flower.
Mn
--- A deficiency of manganese will stunt the growth and flowering of Cannibis. Leaves appear mottled with grey-brown necrotic spots. The plants lack vitamin C; there are some deaths. Signs of deficiency first appear on shoots. Leaf margins remain green while the rest of the leaf turns yellow or white.
S
--- Sulfur stimulates root growth and seed production. S-deficient hemp is pale green, with purple veins. The stem is stiff, woody, and thin; the seeds are immature.
B
--- Boron . When sufficient P and K are available, an additional application of boric acid ,Cu-sulfate, and Mn-sulfate will produce a significant increase in yields and in the quality. A deficiency of B is revealed by cracked, stunted stems and dry rot. Leaves turn purple, terminal shoots curl and die, petioles become brittle, and the flowers are covered with dry areas. New shoots turn gray or brown and die with a burnt appearance. The situation can be corrected with a foliar spray of boric acid.
Cu
--- Cannabis does not have a high tolerance for copper, but supplementary Cu-sulfate will improve the quality and yield of cannabis, especially in peat, which often is deficient in this element. A deficiency causes stems to weaken and break.
Mo
--- A deficiency of molybdenum is indicated by yellowing between veins on leaves. The middle leaves turn yellow.
Zn
--- A deficiency of zinc is indicated by chlorosis between the veins at the base of shoots, and by the accompanying twist of leaf blades.
Flowering is inhibited. Over-watering produces symptoms resembling nutrient deficiencies or excesses. These usually can be corrected by reducing the water supply, or by drainage.
eza82
Well-Known Member
PART 3
The production of cannabinoids (THC, CBN, CBD, etc.) is greatly influenced by nutrients.
As soil N increases relative to Mg, CBD increases relative to CBN. Increasing the ratio of N to Cu increases the level of CBD. Increasing amounts of P convert CBN to THC.
Low to medium levels of P produces a high level of CBD, but CBD decreases with high levels of P.
Low levels (levels less than 40 ppm) of Mg produce more CBD than do high levels of Mg. As levels of Mg increase relative to Ca, the concentration of THC decreases.
The concentration of Mg and Fe in leaves is positively correlated to THC levels.
Potassium increases the concentration of CBN by effecting the dehydrogenation of THC. An excess of K in the 3rd month will inhibit resin production. Excess Ca will inhibit resin production, and it increases the production of CBD in the resin is produced.
Either an excess or deficiency of Mg produces more CBD. 5 ppm Fe gives highest yields of THC.
The recommended "ideal" pattern of nutrient application for cannabinoid production is said to be: high N and K, low Ca, and medium Mg during the first 2 months of growth, continued high N and K, medium Mg, and increased Ca during the next 6-8 weeks, followed by decreased N, K, and Ca, and increased Mg through the flowering phase.
Many growers use a commercial 15-30-30 formula throughout the season.
Mel Frank offers this micronutrient formula for high cannabinoid production: Fe-sulfate (5 mg/gal), Cu-sulfate (0.2 mg/gal), Mn-sulfate (2 mg/gal), Zn-sulfate (0.2 mg/gal), Boric acid (2 mg/gal), Molybdenic acid (0.1 mg/gal). Use 1 tspn/gal of nutrient solution, once monthly. Bill Drake gives this recipe in
Marijuana: The Cultivator’s Handbook
: Ca-sulfate (6 oz), mono-Ca-phosphate (4 oz), Mg-sulfate (6 oz), K-nitrate (8 oz), and Fe-sulfate (1 gr). Use 1 tspn/gal.
.
The production of cannabinoids (THC, CBN, CBD, etc.) is greatly influenced by nutrients.
As soil N increases relative to Mg, CBD increases relative to CBN. Increasing the ratio of N to Cu increases the level of CBD. Increasing amounts of P convert CBN to THC.
Low to medium levels of P produces a high level of CBD, but CBD decreases with high levels of P.
Low levels (levels less than 40 ppm) of Mg produce more CBD than do high levels of Mg. As levels of Mg increase relative to Ca, the concentration of THC decreases.
The concentration of Mg and Fe in leaves is positively correlated to THC levels.
Potassium increases the concentration of CBN by effecting the dehydrogenation of THC. An excess of K in the 3rd month will inhibit resin production. Excess Ca will inhibit resin production, and it increases the production of CBD in the resin is produced.
Either an excess or deficiency of Mg produces more CBD. 5 ppm Fe gives highest yields of THC.
The recommended "ideal" pattern of nutrient application for cannabinoid production is said to be: high N and K, low Ca, and medium Mg during the first 2 months of growth, continued high N and K, medium Mg, and increased Ca during the next 6-8 weeks, followed by decreased N, K, and Ca, and increased Mg through the flowering phase.
Many growers use a commercial 15-30-30 formula throughout the season.
Mel Frank offers this micronutrient formula for high cannabinoid production: Fe-sulfate (5 mg/gal), Cu-sulfate (0.2 mg/gal), Mn-sulfate (2 mg/gal), Zn-sulfate (0.2 mg/gal), Boric acid (2 mg/gal), Molybdenic acid (0.1 mg/gal). Use 1 tspn/gal of nutrient solution, once monthly. Bill Drake gives this recipe in
Marijuana: The Cultivator’s Handbook
: Ca-sulfate (6 oz), mono-Ca-phosphate (4 oz), Mg-sulfate (6 oz), K-nitrate (8 oz), and Fe-sulfate (1 gr). Use 1 tspn/gal.
.
eza82
Well-Known Member
part 4 # MY THEORY ! THE FORMULA FOR GROWING BIG FAT STINKY FEMALES...................
The entire plant contains several hundred known elements/chemicals/hormones/vitimins etc
But the sexual expression & cannibinods of cannibis is determined by its genetic makeup, and by its metabolic temper.
Which is regulated by the male enzyme andrase and the female enzyme gynase.
Environmental & atmosphereic conditions (light, nutrients, soil and water) are keys and may suppress (through ABA) or induce the formation of the dominant enzymes and hormones, and allow the opposite sex to express itself partially (hermaphroditism) or completely as a THC bleeding beautiful lady.
Transition of female cannibis plants from the vegetative to the flowering phase is associated with a rise in Phos and cytokinin level, while that of male proceeds at a decreasing cytokinin level with an increase in Nitrogen.
The activity of cytokinins,avalablity of Gibberellin and level of PHOS are all associated with an enhancement of the female tendency/attributes.
The entire plant contains several hundred known elements/chemicals/hormones/vitimins etc
But the sexual expression & cannibinods of cannibis is determined by its genetic makeup, and by its metabolic temper.
Which is regulated by the male enzyme andrase and the female enzyme gynase.
Environmental & atmosphereic conditions (light, nutrients, soil and water) are keys and may suppress (through ABA) or induce the formation of the dominant enzymes and hormones, and allow the opposite sex to express itself partially (hermaphroditism) or completely as a THC bleeding beautiful lady.
Transition of female cannibis plants from the vegetative to the flowering phase is associated with a rise in Phos and cytokinin level, while that of male proceeds at a decreasing cytokinin level with an increase in Nitrogen.
The activity of cytokinins,avalablity of Gibberellin and level of PHOS are all associated with an enhancement of the female tendency/attributes.
eza82
Well-Known Member
Crit`s/ thoughts???
THIS WILL BE THE BASIS to my experiments over the nxt few months.
HORMONES vs Co2
Sticking to this theory; will narrow down what im going to use & when.
Co2 will be used with basic nutes and vitimins.
This was hours and hours of research so I invite you to micro analyze........it will not only help me but your self to understand and grasp.
THIS WILL BE THE BASIS to my experiments over the nxt few months.
HORMONES vs Co2
Sticking to this theory; will narrow down what im going to use & when.
Co2 will be used with basic nutes and vitimins.
This was hours and hours of research so I invite you to micro analyze........it will not only help me but your self to understand and grasp.
shepj
Oracle of Hallucinogens
Nice posts man.. you're amazing.
"THOUGH ITS PROVEN: AS SEED SOAK
SEEDS treated with the female hormone estrogen, percentage of females that are produced will increase by about 10%. Dissolve a birth control pill in water and soak the seeds overnight in the solution. After the initial soaking, continue to treat the seeds by sprouting them on a paper towel soaked in the solution"
that is beautiful.
"THOUGH ITS PROVEN: AS SEED SOAK
SEEDS treated with the female hormone estrogen, percentage of females that are produced will increase by about 10%. Dissolve a birth control pill in water and soak the seeds overnight in the solution. After the initial soaking, continue to treat the seeds by sprouting them on a paper towel soaked in the solution"
that is beautiful.
eza82
Well-Known Member
Determining sexal expression of marijuana through genes...........female and male
http://www.ias.ac.in/jarch/jgenet/19/65.pdf
http://books.google.com.au/books?id=zjKjqKt3MSAC&pg=PA77&lpg=PA77&dq=female+enzyme+gynase&source=bl&ots=hKHjMxzLTy&sig=Qa77XAP6AsN9dcgmgFijIMCNC3s&hl=en&ei=wRSWSau6KJWukAXz-5S3Cw&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=4&ct=result
http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/archive/index.php/t-646.html
http://www.ias.ac.in/jarch/jgenet/19/65.pdf
http://books.google.com.au/books?id=zjKjqKt3MSAC&pg=PA77&lpg=PA77&dq=female+enzyme+gynase&source=bl&ots=hKHjMxzLTy&sig=Qa77XAP6AsN9dcgmgFijIMCNC3s&hl=en&ei=wRSWSau6KJWukAXz-5S3Cw&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=4&ct=result
http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/archive/index.php/t-646.html
eza82
Well-Known Member
Be sure to get the PLANT DERIVED version though.... others will have oppisite effect. google something like `plant estrogen`
BUT - with only a 10% margin.... Your better off with banana peel or cucumber peel in ziplock bag....ethylene - that will give youe a 30-40% margin IMO.
As well as that you dont need subscription from doctor.....
shepj
Oracle of Hallucinogens
chemistry is easy for me.. and anabolic steroids are readily available.. I'm sure I can find someone with a plant ready form of estradiol.
eza82
Well-Known Member
Do you have a lab set up for deriving compounds ?chemistry is easy for me.. and anabolic steroids are readily available.. I'm sure I can find someone with a plant ready form of estradiol.
If so:
Triacontanol is a fatty alcohol found in many plants. It increases growth rates and yields up to 25%, and increases the protein content, even during darkness when plants usually are dormant. Triacontanol seems to enhance the growth of plants without increasing their consumption of nitrogen. Triacontanol is extracted from sunflower seeds or alfalfa by chloroform; filter and evaporate the solution to yield crude triacontanol. The dosage is 1 ppm in water.
or if your lab`y
The B-vitamins (1 ppm solution) increase the yield by raising its fat content. - thiamine
Potassium permanganate in weak solutions stimulates the development of cannabis in all its phases.
Dilute camphor also stimulates plant growth. Vitamin C (1-5 parts in 10,000 water) has the same effect.
Auxigro, manufactured by the Auxein Corp. (US Patent 5,840,656) contains 4-aminobutyric acid, L-glutamic acid, etc.). It increases fertilizer efficiency severalfold and improves plant growth up to 50%. Nutrient accumulation also is increased dramatically.
shepj
Oracle of Hallucinogens
no, but I have a lot of chemical suppliers. He he he
Jester88
Well-Known Member
on that last link you left there talking about collodial silver and making a solution right..
my question is this.
i can get collodial silver from the a shop. i havent looked at whats in it but im just wandering are they trying to make collodial silver or using collodial silver with other things to make something else that produces male flowers on the female plants..
the reason im asking is the shit already is collodial silver (theres also another way to make it involving distilled water, an electric current and some silver..)
anyways i can get collodial silver from the shop and was wandering if anyone knows what the go is from there. i havent got to look at what the stuff actually is yet..
would i be right in assumin collodial silver has to be mixed with sodium thiosulphate and use the mix on a girl plant to produce a male flower....
also what about just getting one bud to produce the seed and letting it go from there???? maybe just pollinating itself even????
my question is this.
i can get collodial silver from the a shop. i havent looked at whats in it but im just wandering are they trying to make collodial silver or using collodial silver with other things to make something else that produces male flowers on the female plants..
the reason im asking is the shit already is collodial silver (theres also another way to make it involving distilled water, an electric current and some silver..)
anyways i can get collodial silver from the shop and was wandering if anyone knows what the go is from there. i havent got to look at what the stuff actually is yet..
would i be right in assumin collodial silver has to be mixed with sodium thiosulphate and use the mix on a girl plant to produce a male flower....
also what about just getting one bud to produce the seed and letting it go from there???? maybe just pollinating itself even????
eza82
Well-Known Member
This is what your talkin about ??:::
--------------------------
How To Reverse FEMALES Using Silver Thiosulfate Solution
1. mix 2.6 grams of sodium thiosulphate into 600ml of distilled water and mix thoroughly.
2. mix .7 grams of silver nitrate into 100ml of distilled water and mix thoroughly.
3. mix silver nitrate solution into sodium thiosulphate solution while stirring rapidly.
4. top off mixture with distilled water to fill a glass quart jar (canning jar type).
5. use this mix at a 3:1 ratio with distilled water and spray plants to point of run-off.
6. repeat process in 3 days, move target females in at 5 days.
use common safety precautions. rubber gloves, safety glasses, skin covered, respirator preferred.
3:1 ratio of distilled water to stock mix of STS can be played with some. some people use it as diluted as 9:1 and some run it as hot as 1:1.
---------------------------------
How To Reverse Sex Using Silver Thiosulfate Solution
The following is a safe, inexpensive, and successful method for reversing the sex of female cannabis plants. Individual plant responses may vary based upon strain, but I can verify that this process is fully effective in stimulating profuse staminate flower production.
This process can be used to:
A: create new feminized seeds from solitary prize mothers that you currently have
B: create interesting feminized-seed hybrids from different prize strains that you currently have
C: create feminized seeds for optimum outdoor use
D: accelerate the "interview" phase of cultivation, in searching for interesting new clone-mothers
E: reduce total plant numbers- great for medical users with severe plant number restrictions
F: increase variety, by helping to create stable feminized seedlines to be used as an alternative to clones
At the bottom of this post are some specific details about the chemicals used, their safety, their cost, and where to get them.
It is important to educate yourself about cannabis breeding theory and technique prior to using a method like this one. Here is a link to Robert Clarke's "Marijuana Botany", which is a very good reference.
"Marijuana Botany" by Robert Connell Clarke
(unfortunately missing the appendices)
http://www.geocities.com/hempgenes/Botany.html
It is also important to use basic safety precautions when mixing and handling these chemicals, so read the safety data links provided. The risk is similar to mixing and handling chemical fertilizers, and similar handling procedures are sufficient.
Remember: nothing will ever replace good genetics, and some of your bounty should always go back towards the professional cannabis breeders out there... the ones who have worked for many generations to come up with their true-breeding F1 masterpieces. Support professional breeders by buying their seeds. Also, order from Heaven's Stairway. Not that they need a plug from me, but they are very professional and provide very fast service worldwide.
First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.
Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.
Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water
The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.
The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).
This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.
Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It's pretty cheap.
Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer's Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That's 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.
The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.
After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.
So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.
A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.
Effects:
Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.
It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first.
When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.
When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.
A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.
Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidently. Point downwind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes.
This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.
If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very careful: pollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it's flowering cycle.
Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.
Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.
Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies' eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn't notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule.
Here are links to some safety data. A Google search will bring up more information if needed.
Silver Nitrate info:
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/ipcsneng/neng1116.html
http://www.lions.odu.edu/~redwards/...%20solution.pdf
For a realistic hazard level comparison, here is a link for the safety and handling data for Ammonium Nitrate, or common fertilizer:
http://www.skcgulfcoast.com/nioshdb...ng/neng0216.htm
Sodium thiosulfate is also a white crystalline chemical commonly used in photography; it is used in photographic fixers. Same general cautions apply, minus the staining. This formula uses the anhydrous type. Non-hazardous.
Sodium Thiosulfate info:
http://ptcl.chem.ox.ac.uk/MSDS/SO/s...hiosulfate.html
http://www.med-chem.com/MSDS/Sodium_Thiosulf.htm
------------------
Where to get the chemicals:
http://www.photoformulary.com
silver nitrate: 10 grams: $10
http://www.photoformulary.com/Deskt...yID=27&langID=0
sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous): 100 grams: $3.95
http://www.photoformulary.com/Deskt...yID=28&langID=0
Postage runs around $4. Fast service. Can be shipped to Canada.
STS For Sex Reversal: Conclusions
I wanted to post some conclusions that I have come to regarding the successful reversal of plants using silver thiosulfate solution. It's been a year since I posted the other STS thread. I have done six batches myself, and have had full pollen release with all of them. Everyone else seems to be doing well, but there is very little feedback so who knows. A big thanks to those who contributed to the other thread... your input was a big help in refining the technique.
I was going to edit the original post, but I can't, as I am THE Country Mon now, not just Country Mon. Changed my email addy and got locked out.
There has been one key change that I want to pass along to everyone who didn't want to sift through the 25+ pages of the original thread.
I have discovered that using a stronger concentration of STS does not make a plant more likely to produce pollen. It just burns/stresses the plant. What DOES make a plant much more likely to complete it's mission and make pollen is a second spraying at the end of week 2.
My conclusion is that STS in any concentration is only effective at inhibiting ethylene for about 3 weeks; at that point the plant's natural female metabolism begins to take back control, and even a plant that is covered with male blooms can't finish the journey to manhood and produce pollen. A second spraying allows inhibition to last through week 6, which is more than enough time to release pollen.
Some of you have decided to use stronger concentrations of STS. This is fine as long as it doesn't burn your plants. Obviously there is a wide range of usable formulas that will work. But the second spraying is the key to follow-through. You can store the working solution you used for round one (in the spray bottle) in your refrigerator for two weeks; no need to mix a new batch from stock.
I don't see the point of going any stronger than the formula I originally came up with. It has proven itself many times over. The only change I might make is to adjust it slightly to Gobgoober's "molar-correct" mix ratio. This is not at all necessary, but does allow the most effective use of the chemicals together.
Here's a re-post of the formula mix instructions, with the adjusted recipe below that:
Preparation of STS:
First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.
Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.
Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water
The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.
The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).
This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.
Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss.
The adjusted formula is as follows:
Part A: .7 gram silver nitrate stirred into 40ml distilled water
Part B: 2.6 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 160 ml distilled water
Next, slowly add the silver nitrate solution to the sodium thiosulfate solution while stirring. This combination is then added to 800 ml of distilled water to equal 1 liter. This is your final stock solution. It is diluted 1:9 with more distilled water to make your final working solution, which then gets sprayed on your target plant.
Either formula will work great, so don't sweat it too much. But do that second spraying at the end of week 2... seems to be the key for getting pollen from the more difficult strains.
----------------------------------------
Here is a link to the .pdf file: http://www.ias.ac.in/jbiosci/dec2002/651.pdf --
He states that fertile male flowers can be induced in female cannabis plants using:
gibberellins (GAs) and anti-ethylene agents such as:
silver nitrate (AgNO3)
silver thiosulphate anionic complex (STS)
aminoethoxyvinyl glycene (AVG)
and cobalt chloride (CoCl2).
As this was an aside mentioned in the larger context of Dr. Ram's life work, he does not go into detail regarding the methods of application of these chemicals to achieve the sex reversal. I'm sure the papers Vic mentioned will give the specifics, here they are again (thanks Vic):
Mohan Ram H Y and Juiswal VS. 1972. Induction of male flowers on female plants of Cannabis sativa by gibberellins and its inhibition by abscisic acid. Plants, 105:263-266.
Mohan Ram H Y and Sett R. 1981. Modification of growth and sex expression in Cannabis sativa by aminoethoxyvinylglycine and ethephon. Z. Pflanzenphysiol., 105:165-172.
Mohan Ram H Y and Sett R. 1982. Induction of fertile male flowers in genetically female Cannabis sativa plants by silver nitrate and silver thiosulphate anionic complex. Theor. Appl. Genet., 62:369-375
---------------------------
ref: http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/archive/index.php/t-646.html
Jester88
Well-Known Member
1. mix 2.6 grams of sodium thiosulphate into 600ml of distilled water and mix thoroughly.
2. mix .7 grams of silver nitrate into 100ml of distilled water and mix thoroughly.
3. mix silver nitrate solution into sodium thiosulphate solution while stirring rapidly.
4. top off mixture with distilled water to fill a glass quart jar (canning jar type).
5. use this mix at a 3:1 ratio with distilled water and spray plants to point of run-off.
6. repeat process in 3 days, move target females in at 5 days.
use common safety precautions. rubber gloves, safety glasses, skin covered, respirator preferred.
3:1 ratio of distilled water to stock mix of STS can be played with some. some people use it as diluted as 9:1 and some run it as hot as 1:1.
so does all this likely make the collodial silver i am thinking of buying
OR is this how they make the collodial silver shit which i can buy????
2. mix .7 grams of silver nitrate into 100ml of distilled water and mix thoroughly.
also like i said ya can make collodial silver with electricity, distilled water and some silver, there was a post n this forum about it
meaning i'd still have to get some if this and mix it with collodial silver.
Part B: 2.6 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 160 ml distilled water
2. mix .7 grams of silver nitrate into 100ml of distilled water and mix thoroughly.
3. mix silver nitrate solution into sodium thiosulphate solution while stirring rapidly.
4. top off mixture with distilled water to fill a glass quart jar (canning jar type).
5. use this mix at a 3:1 ratio with distilled water and spray plants to point of run-off.
6. repeat process in 3 days, move target females in at 5 days.
use common safety precautions. rubber gloves, safety glasses, skin covered, respirator preferred.
3:1 ratio of distilled water to stock mix of STS can be played with some. some people use it as diluted as 9:1 and some run it as hot as 1:1.
so does all this likely make the collodial silver i am thinking of buying
OR is this how they make the collodial silver shit which i can buy????
2. mix .7 grams of silver nitrate into 100ml of distilled water and mix thoroughly.
also like i said ya can make collodial silver with electricity, distilled water and some silver, there was a post n this forum about it
meaning i'd still have to get some if this and mix it with collodial silver.
Part B: 2.6 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 160 ml distilled water
eza82
Well-Known Member
THIS WAS method 1# old as the hills
method 2 #
Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water
The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.
The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).
This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.
or
METHOD 3#
The adjusted formula is as follows:
Part A: .7 gram silver nitrate stirred into 40ml distilled water
Part B: 2.6 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 160 ml distilled water
Next, slowly add the silver nitrate solution to the sodium thiosulfate solution while stirring. This combination is then added to 800 ml of distilled water to equal 1 liter. This is your final stock solution. It is diluted 1:9 with more distilled water to make your final working solution, which then gets sprayed on your target plant.
Either formula will work great, so don't sweat it too much. But do that second spraying at the end of week 2... seems to be the key for getting pollen from the more difficult strains.
I would follow this formula out of that thread: It seems more detailed and the results are clear......1. mix 2.6 grams of sodium thiosulphate into 600ml of distilled water and mix thoroughly.
2. mix .7 grams of silver nitrate into 100ml of distilled water and mix thoroughly.
3. mix silver nitrate solution into sodium thiosulphate solution while stirring rapidly.
4. top off mixture with distilled water to fill a glass quart jar (canning jar type).
5. use this mix at a 3:1 ratio with distilled water and spray plants to point of run-off.
6. repeat process in 3 days, move target females in at 5 days.
use common safety precautions. rubber gloves, safety glasses, skin covered, respirator preferred.
3:1 ratio of distilled water to stock mix of STS can be played with some. some people use it as diluted as 9:1 and some run it as hot as 1:1.
so does all this likely make the collodial silver i am thinking of buying
OR is this how they make the collodial silver shit which i can buy????
2. mix .7 grams of silver nitrate into 100ml of distilled water and mix thoroughly.
also like i said ya can make collodial silver with electricity, distilled water and some silver, there was a post n this forum about it
meaning i'd still have to get some if this and mix it with collodial silver.
Part B: 2.6 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 160 ml distilled water
method 2 #
Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water
The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.
The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).
This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.
or
METHOD 3#
The adjusted formula is as follows:
Part A: .7 gram silver nitrate stirred into 40ml distilled water
Part B: 2.6 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 160 ml distilled water
Next, slowly add the silver nitrate solution to the sodium thiosulfate solution while stirring. This combination is then added to 800 ml of distilled water to equal 1 liter. This is your final stock solution. It is diluted 1:9 with more distilled water to make your final working solution, which then gets sprayed on your target plant.
Either formula will work great, so don't sweat it too much. But do that second spraying at the end of week 2... seems to be the key for getting pollen from the more difficult strains.
eza82
Well-Known Member
Ive heard about INDIVIDUAL branch pollination useing wax paper to wrap the target bud..... But this confirms it.....................
"A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy."
And dose with above ???!!!!
"A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy."
And dose with above ???!!!!
.
eza82
Well-Known Member
tHANKS BRO!! KEEP CHIMMING IN.....GIVES ME IDEAS WHEN PEOPLE GIVE THERE 2 CENTS.... RIGHT, WRONG, THEORY IT DOSE NOT MATTER i JUST APPRICEATE THAT PEOPLE ARE HERE! aND HAVE PEOPLE TO BOUNCE OFF...!!:
SORT of TRYING TO DO A "COMPLETE" hormones schedual for marijuana.... good, bad, indifferent -when, where,how,why -and what additives I can INDUCE more of them or Less which ever mybey the case needed.
:SORT of TRYING TO DO A "COMPLETE" hormones schedual for marijuana.... good, bad, indifferent -when, where,how,why -and what additives I can INDUCE more of them or Less which ever mybey the case needed.