Guaranteed Cure for Thrips + other pests! All Natural!

CustomHydro

Well-Known Member
I have dealt with bugs for months, on and off, one attack after another. I'm tired of going the old fashioned route and tossing infected plants and tearing apart the grow room only to miss one little pest and have that fucker turn into a colonie of hell raising, cannabis loving pests.
If i would have only known the solution is so simple. This doesn't work for Spider Mites tho, for them I would recomend Tabacco Tea...

Product Information:
The first product, u probably already used it or something like it, is "Don't Bug Me" by Fox Farms. It is a very common insect spray containing Pyrethrum made of Chrysanthemum Flowers. It kills on contact from the larvae to adults.
Pyrethrum by itself could get the job done, but most likely a few pests would get away and burrow into the soil to reproduce and start your problem all over. It only takes one female Thrips to survive and she can reproduce on her own w/o a male, aint that some shit! What an evil bitch. With thrips, gnats, and aphids the soil or medium needs to be treated also, Pyrethrum in large amounts will kill plants, so it is best to only use it where neccesary and apply lightly. On smaller plants a rinse may be needed the folowing day if the leaves are getting wrinkled badly.
So, Pyrethrum treats the plant, what treats the soil?
Mosquito Dunks (aka Bacillus Thuringiensis). Dunks are intended for killing mosquito larvae before it matures. The larvae think the Bacillus Thuringiensis is food, but once they digest it it kills them. Not only does this work on Mosquito larvae, but Thrips larvae, Aphids, Gnats, and much more!!!
Mosquito dunks can be used every watering, and are completely safe for plants so going overboard on dosage is not a big deal at all.

DIRECTIONS
Dunks can be broken into smaller pieces and used. I used a 1/2 dunk in a 5gallon bucket and watered with that for awhile. A lot of growers use the dunks every watering for the life of the plant and see no negative side effects.
Pyrethrum on the other hand is very effective, but too much is bad for plants. Only apply Pyrethrum towards the end of a light cycle, or right away when the lights go out. A light even mist over both sides of leaves will be fine for younger plants, but if you have a lot of mature plants I would suggest a Pyrethrum Fogger or Pyrethrum Bomb. One run of the fogger/bomb should be enough, but for a guaranteed result, I would run one more Fogger or Bomb 2-3 days later if allowed by the product that you choose, I would suggest looking for one that allows immediate re-application if they all arent like that. The only thing I would say to do different with the Fogger/Bomb vs. the Spray is to use the Fogger in the middle of the light cycle, pull the lights up (3 feet clearance to tpos of plants) and follow instructions on the can. Thrips feed at high noon, other than that they are hanging in the soil alot when they are young. Besides application time, follow these same instructions for the Pyrethrum Spray, as stated earlier the spray should be applied right before lights out or right after. Dont apply it before the lights go on because the pores on the leaves will be opened and looking for the morning dew to take in, you don't want to feed them a shot of Pyrethrum, the leaves will shrivel up like a nutsack on a block of dry ice...lol What u can do right before the lights go on to help even more is to spray the leaves down with a weak calcium supplement mixture(like Calmag). The calcium will block the nitrates , Thrips LOVE plants high in nitrates!! I hope this helps someone like it helped me!
I'm tired and stoned, half asleep so if I forgot something just PM me.
 

CustomHydro

Well-Known Member
Thanks Roseman! Hope this helps everyone, I have never heard one bad thing about the Dunks. I am amazed that it isn't a popular treatment, seeing how good they work.
 

FLoJo

Well-Known Member
i have been using the dunks in my hydro and in my soilers.. it keeps em at bay pretty well but i dont think it totally eradicates them... at least it hasnt for me... i have heard that another great solution to critters in soil is nematodes.. i just got 2 million in the mail today so i will be treating this evening and will let yall know how it goes in the next few days
 

CustomHydro

Well-Known Member
i have been using the dunks in my hydro and in my soilers.. it keeps em at bay pretty well but i dont think it totally eradicates them... at least it hasnt for me... i have heard that another great solution to critters in soil is nematodes.. i just got 2 million in the mail today so i will be treating this evening and will let yall know how it goes in the next few days
Please let us know!~
I never used them alone so I can't comment on that. The dunks are useless once anything turns into adult stage, theay only fight larva, thats why I chose Pyrethrum as a concurrent treatment. I can say with Pyrethrum that I haven't noticed any more activity in several days, and it stopped almost immediately. They may not be gone for sure, but I haven't had these good of results yet.

Quick question for anyone who knows...
Before this treatment i kept seeing leaf damage but no thrips or any pests for that matter. I have a 50x magnifyer and I would check 10 times per day. Where is a good place to find them, where do they hide? What is a good method to find them on leaves and in soil? I tried to shake the plants over white paper plates and nothing, I also pull up a little soil, or rockwool (in hydro plants) and spread it across plates to see if I could pin point them and still nothing. I know they were there then, and unless I start seeing leaf damage I don't know how to find them anymore, I would like to try to spot them prior to that though if they decide to come back... When I first had them they were bold and in the open, but after Pyrethrum I never saw them again.
 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
I have a SOIL growing friend, and he grows Chrysanthemum Flowers in his yard, and blends them up in a blender, makiang a tea, and puts them in his soil. He says they also keep bugs off his tomatoes too.
 

CustomHydro

Well-Known Member
I have a SOIL growing friend, and he grows Chrysanthemum Flowers in his yard, and blends them up in a blender, makiang a tea, and puts them in his soil. He says they also keep bugs off his tomatoes too.
Pyrethrum comes from those flowers, he is saving some cash, if I keep up on this path I will have to start growing them too...

Hey Flojo, any luck with the nematodes, my thrips are still completely gone, but I think I have some Vine Weevils or something similar. My plants only get attacked at night and I have never seen what is doing the damage. It's something big tho, I just got back from vacation for 6 days and a plant is missing a whole fan leaf.
 

FLoJo

Well-Known Member
ya sorry for not updating.. the nematodes worked like a charm.. the gnats wont go near the soil its like they know the nematodes are there LOL i still have them in my hydro so they are not so effective there, but if you are growing in soil they are a must have! i am still trying to figure out how to breed these puppies.. i would love to have a nematode farm
 

CustomHydro

Well-Known Member
ya sorry for not updating.. the nematodes worked like a charm.. the gnats wont go near the soil its like they know the nematodes are there LOL i still have them in my hydro so they are not so effective there, but if you are growing in soil they are a must have! i am still trying to figure out how to breed these puppies.. i would love to have a nematode farm
LOL, Hell yeah! A farm!
Well Flo, I owe u a super thanks! I thought my PH was spot on since I have this $200 meter, but it turns out I had a faulty probe. The probe said 5.5 and I was at 7.5, and it took like a half hour to lock in a reading. I was wondering why my RO water didn't need any PH down lately. I'm a stupid ass sometimes, alot of times lately...
Anyways if u wouldn't have told me it was PH I may not have looked there yet so thanks!

PS, I still cant get my runoff under 6.5 no matter what I do. I flushed several times with water as low as a PH of 2.5 and it only came down like .2 or .3, I'm afraid to keep doing that tho, that is a lot of PH down in there.
 

FLoJo

Well-Known Member
glad to hear you got it on lock now hydro! i never like to trust electronic readouts.. thats why i still use the good ol GH ph dropper and vial.. low tech but never faulty! sorry to hear about your mishap. and i am assuming you are referring to when you thought you had TSWV? not the thrips? im a little confused..

but anyways if you are flushing your soil i would not put 2.5 ph down in there.. what happens is the soil will soak up a bunch of it and let the rest run down.. especially if you are flushing repeatedly it will just go right down the sides most of the time to the drains at the bottom.. what you need to do is do a flush over time.. get id say 6.2 phd water and totally saturate your baby and let it have a runoff that it will not soak up.. what i like to do is get a metal cookie cooling rack and place it over a 5 gallon bucket and place it on the top so that i can set the plant down and the runoff will go to the bottom of the bucket and there is no chance my baby will soak any of it up..

so anyways totally saturate it, let it sit for an hour or two, totally saturate it again.. do this a few times over a few hours.. what this will do is allow all of the soil to get saturated bit by bit because chances are there are hard dry patches of soil that take longer to get saturated with water.. once you saturate the entire thing and have it free flowing then when you flush it will really start moving the stuff out of the soil and start to bring down the ph.
 

CustomHydro

Well-Known Member
Flojo, I used to use that PH vial and I gave it to my friend when I got my meter, his plants are looking fantastic and here I am...
Sorry to confuse u, I don't come on here as often as I should so I don't keep u all updated enough. I did have thrips, and not TWV, I jumped to conclusions on that TWV and I was wrong, it was a combo of thrips, and a huge PH problem, like u said.
About the flushing, I have 9 plants and after flushing 2 of them out in the bathtub and it taking me hours for little to no reward, I needed to change it up. Here is what I am doing now...
I have two plants in soil (I brought them out of flowering last grow cuz I was having trouble buying seeds), 7 others in 10%RW / 90% Perlite. They are all on a flood table now. I have been flooding them with very low PH'd water, I did this about 10 times yesterday and didn't even get a .5 change, the last flush I did, I fed them with 5.5 ph water and 1100PPM and now they are waterlogged, drying out for a day or two before I can do it again. Some look ok/good (to me), and some look bad, but they are not growing like they should be, thats for sure.. Here are some pics of the problematic ones, what do u think?
Room Temp=72-79F day / 65-70F night
Runoff PH= 6.2-6.5
Feed= R/O Water, GH Flora Series, Liquid Karma, Calmag, 1000PPM total
Light=18/6 1000watt HPS
Strain= 5 Super Snow Dog, 4 Dutch Passion Blueberry

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CustomHydro

Well-Known Member
Anyone know where I can get Mosquito Dunks in Australia.
I'm sure u can get them online, I also found out that most catapillar killers are also made out of BT, which is the ingredient in the dunks, that can be applied as a spray or mixed in with feed water for the same results. The catapillar killers are in strong concentrate though and should be used lightly in comparison to the dunks, which are time/friction released.
 

FLoJo

Well-Known Member
id say they look pretty good.. much better than the last time i saw em..

you need to STOP flooding with low ph water..

when you flood a table all you are doing is allowing it to wick water back up into the soil... not flushing it down like you are wanting to do.. this is why you are not getting the change you want.

i would keep the res and feed at the proper feeding levels with the proper ph, and every couple of days take them out of the system in the bathtub or whatever, sit them on a raised surface so that the water can freely run out the bottom, and flush them with slightly higher ph water.. this will help flush out the lower ph, and then when you feed with the proper solution will be able to get them back under control.

your ph runoff seems to be ok, so i would flush them one more time with say 7.0 ph water, and then the subsesquent feedings will be able to level out the ph in the soil.

also i would not put soil in a flood and drain because it will be easier to get salt deposits in the bottom of the pots because salt does not easily wick upwards against gravity. just feed them normally and flush one more time in a few days and you will be fine. they look much better tho
 

CustomHydro

Well-Known Member
Thanks, they do look better! They are still showing deficiencies, but atleast they are not showing burn at the same time anymore...lol...
Okay I'm done with that low PH shit, and I will continue on a normal feeding schedule for a bit and see how it goes.
Thanks again!
 

drnkrssn

Active Member
I just got some dunks. I've been battling thrips for months. I can never get them to go completely away. I'll think I'm doing good and then I'll slack on treatments and the little bastards show up again. I've been using nematodes as well as neem oil and bang!. I alternate spray type on the foliage every two weeks. I generally spray every five days or so. I apply the nematodes roughly once a week as far away from the foliage spraying as I can. Obviously I haven't been diligent about this or the bugs would be gone, but this is what I have been doing for the last 3-4 weeks. So is there anything wrong with what I have been doing lately? The flies have decreased greatly and I've never been able to see the larvae. I did see larvae on a mother that I culled. I was going to give this another couple weeks and use the dunks if I am still getting flies on the strips. Can you place the dunks in a reservoir? Thanks
 

CustomHydro

Well-Known Member
I just got some dunks. I've been battling thrips for months. I can never get them to go completely away. I'll think I'm doing good and then I'll slack on treatments and the little bastards show up again. I've been using nematodes as well as neem oil and bang!. I alternate spray type on the foliage every two weeks. I generally spray every five days or so. I apply the nematodes roughly once a week as far away from the foliage spraying as I can. Obviously I haven't been diligent about this or the bugs would be gone, but this is what I have been doing for the last 3-4 weeks. So is there anything wrong with what I have been doing lately? The flies have decreased greatly and I've never been able to see the larvae. I did see larvae on a mother that I culled. I was going to give this another couple weeks and use the dunks if I am still getting flies on the strips. Can you place the dunks in a reservoir? Thanks
Treatments need to be 3 days apart or its a waste!!! U have to kill all larva and adults at the same time, or they WILL come back! I have tried Neem oil and I think it is useless for anything more than an occassional pest. I have not tried Nematodes for thrips, but I see a lot of good comments on them. There are two different kinds of Nematodes, u need to get a mixture of each to fight thrips off. One kind fights towards the top of the soil, and one kind fights deep in the soil. Then u can also use them as a foilar spray to get the ones living on the leaves.
With thrips, the trick is to fight them in the soil and the leaves at the same time or u will not beat them. If just one lives u will see an infestation again within a month.
Yes u can put the Dunks in a res, but most are unsuccessfull with that method, the BT floats to the surface so u need to be mixing the res water at the same time the pumps are running to ensure that the BT makes it to the pump. I watered from the top and found it to work better. There really is no easy way to get rid of these fuckers, it takes work no matter what method u use. I spent a year battling these fuckers off and on, when I started with the Pyrethrum / Dunk treatment they were gone in 2 weeks.
BT also comes in a powder form that can be sprinkled on the leaves, and it comes in a liquid form (ex- "Safer Catapillar Killer"). The catapillar killer is extremely potent, and is meant to be used as a diluted foilar spray, but I think it could be used as a soil treatment. I would test on a single plant before I used it on the whole crop
 

overmyhead

Well-Known Member
Thanks Roseman! Hope this helps everyone, I have never heard one bad thing about the Dunks. I am amazed that it isn't a popular treatment, seeing how good they work.
So, when using the dunks in soil you just put a chunk in the water your feeding with? Do you crush it up, how do you make sure that they are all getting some of the bacteria? What do you think about crushing it up, and cultivating it into the soil before watering?

Thanks!
 
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