Pull leaves or not week 6 flower

Jimski

Jimski

Well-Known Member
Hello RIU.
Have a concern about some leaf damage. I have what seems to be a calcium deficiency on a white widow plant 6 weeks in flower. It started 10 days ago after an improper watering took place. It has affected only 2 stems on one plant. The majority of the plant is not effected
Here is diagnose pic on Feb 14th. Pics from the 12th do not show thisIMG_20250214_064430482_HDR~2.jpg

Here is a pic yesterday
IMG_20250221_144801684_HDR.jpg
Should I pluck these leaves as they are starting to go necrotic and I am afraid that can lead to bud problems.

2 weeks out.
Sigh
 
Don't do anything crazy two weeks out. Looks like you used enough nutes during the grow already imo. The yellowing is natural towards the end.. if you only got two weeks left it is what it is let it ride.
 
Wow I did not realize I did such a poor job posting.

Happy frog ocean forest 50-50 with perlite for soil. Topped dressed one time with fox farms conditioner , EWC and vermiculite.
Flower nutes are poured organics called foop.
9 days ago started cal-mag plus as foliar spray on lower and brushed on leaves with buds. Due to feeding cal-mag plus started with nutes at 4ml per gallon and then 5ml per gallon. 4 foliar sprays and 2 adds to poured nutes.
Always pH to 6.3 lights at tops 65k lux to 50k lux with a few button buds at 40k
I have pushed lights pretty hard the last 2 weeks. Only the smallest of the 2 plants has the cal mag issue.
 
Jimski said:
Wow I did not realize I did such a poor job posting.

Happy frog ocean forest 50-50 with perlite for soil. Topped dressed one time with fox farms conditioner , EWC and vermiculite.
Flower nutes are poured organics called foop.
9 days ago started cal-mag plus as foliar spray on lower and brushed on leaves with buds. Due to feeding cal-mag plus started with nutes at 4ml per gallon and then 5ml per gallon. 4 foliar sprays and 2 adds to poured nutes.
Always pH to 6.3 lights at tops 65k lux to 50k lux with a few button buds at 40k
I have pushed lights pretty hard the last 2 weeks. Only the smallest of the 2 plants has the cal mag issue.
Click to expand...
Fox farms makes two soils.
Happy frog is a started soil with a nute density of
0.2-0.2-0.2 meant mostly for sproutlings and rooting clippings

And ocean forest is is its more standard potting/garden soil dont remeber the ration off hand think its 13-6-9.

I go about most grows as you discribed using happy frog, its as close to a cotrolled feed as you can get while still having the protective properties of soil.

If your using ocean forest your feeding is quess work as you dont know how much food is left in the soil.

If you got ocean forest i would skip the salts and feed with a top dress.
 
VaSmile said:
Fox farms makes two soils.
Happy frog is a started soil with a nute density of
0.2-0.2-0.2 meant mostly for sproutlings and rooting clippings

And ocean forest is is its more standard potting/garden soil dont remeber the ration off hand think its 13-6-9.

I go about most grows as you discribed using happy frog, its as close to a cotrolled feed as you can get while still having the protective properties of soil.

If your using ocean forest your feeding is quess work as you dont know how much food is left in the soil.

If you got ocean forest i would skip the salts and feed with a top dress.
Click to expand...
I do not use salts. Foop nutes is fish poop on steroids. I love the flower nutes and as my first grow shows it does need some tweaking.
Next grow I start the foop at week one strength 1 week before the light flip.
Due to high led output cal-mag starts at week 3 of flower when the lights get bumped up.
The question has been should I pull the leaves that are necrotizing off before it gets to the flowers. I have an electrical terminal tool that can reach down the stem and cut it flush with the flower stem or just before
 
Jimski said:
The question has been should I pull the leaves that are necrotizing off before it gets to the flowers. I have an electrical terminal tool that can reach down the stem and cut it flush with the flower stem or just before
Click to expand...
My suggestion stay the same. Keep they damaged leafs and try and correct the issue, only romove mass that has died or is so weak it has become a target site for infection/infestation
 
VaSmile said:
My suggestion stay the same. Keep they damaged leafs and try and correct the issue, only romove mass that has died or is so weak it has become a target site for infection/infestation
Click to expand...
Just like we do with normal fading leaves.
Strange how this presented. Only flowers on 2 stems were affected. Rest of the plant showed no issues. Lights pretty level. It has not progressed to other parts of the plant but it keeps creeping on the ones it has affected.
 
close in photo shows progression of damaged has stopped. Yellowing has halted and no new edge damage. brown spots very tiny and very few new. Per internet it took 8 days via root feeding to halt this. Will finish grow with Calmag plus as the only addative needed.
 
Jimski said:
Wow I did not realize I did such a poor job posting.

Happy frog ocean forest 50-50 with perlite for soil. Topped dressed one time with fox farms conditioner , EWC and vermiculite.
Flower nutes are poured organics called foop.
9 days ago started cal-mag plus as foliar spray on lower and brushed on leaves with buds. Due to feeding cal-mag plus started with nutes at 4ml per gallon and then 5ml per gallon. 4 foliar sprays and 2 adds to poured nutes.
Always pH to 6.3 lights at tops 65k lux to 50k lux with a few button buds at 40k
I have pushed lights pretty hard the last 2 weeks. Only the smallest of the 2 plants has the cal mag issue.
Click to expand...
dont need calmag or ph nutes/water in soil using tap water. the soil will buffer it. needs more food earlier in grow.
run drain to waste and you'll avoid salt buildup. best of luck
 
I'd almost guarantee you that your runoff pH is going to be lower than 6.3. I grow in a similar medium....FFOF as the base and then added various inert amendments. What I learned is that, at around that time (week #6) the plant's root hairs start to die back. The plants don't uptake nutes from the roots and have switched to cannibalizing what's stored in the leaves. The result is that the root hair necrosis causes the pH to lower. The runoff water will also start to look like tea at around this time. I found that just adding plain tap water (ph7.0) brought the runoff pH back up to ~6.0.
 
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