As the fall already begun, my grow room temp is about 20-21 °C (68°F). As some suggest, the LED panels won't be suitable to provide the best potential under such conditions, a higher temp being preferred. In this scenario, what would you suggest? Should i switch to a 400W HPS or continue the flowering phase under the LED panel?
Should i switch to HPS?
- Thread starter herjack24
- Start date
conor c
Well-Known Member
If it's gonna cost you the same or more to run the led with extra heat to compensate for the colder temps then you be as well as running just the hps I think during the colder parts of the year if not then crack on with the led
Coldnasty
Well-Known Member
Abso fricking lutely…. I prefer HPS period but it’s the for sure winner in winter cultivation if you’re in a colder climate
Drop That Sound
Well-Known Member
Use both, and grow more!? 
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
You can fairly easily build your own custom solution to this if you want an in between step aswell for spring and autumn: diy ledstrips around a centre hps, which you can replace by another strip array for the summer. Best of two worlds.
jimihendrix1
Well-Known Member
Id use a 600w MassMedicalStrains Halide. They do make a 400w, if you want to go that route.
Its the closest thing to the Hortlulx Blue, there is. Which was $150-$200.
The MMS 1000w Halide Bulb, is only $70 usd.
They dont make Hortilux Blue anymore, and this New Halide, is 20% more powerful, than the Blue.
While its true, an HPS, will produce more weed. The Halide, is the closest thing these is to the spectrum, of the sun.
The bulb has a 280nm-2400nm spectrum.
The Halide, will also keep the stretch down a bit, as the more Red, in the HPS, will for sure promote larger plants.
But while LED-HPS, Halide, can all grow good weed. I believe the Halide, brings out more expressions in the plants.
While anyone can say anything.
MMS claims they did do chemical testing Halide vs HPS, and the Halide, had a more varied chemical profile.
IMHO a 600w is best, for a 3ft x 3ft area. 400w- 2.5ft x 2.5ft. 1000w 4ft x 4ft.
Its the closest thing to the Hortlulx Blue, there is. Which was $150-$200.
The MMS 1000w Halide Bulb, is only $70 usd.
They dont make Hortilux Blue anymore, and this New Halide, is 20% more powerful, than the Blue.
While its true, an HPS, will produce more weed. The Halide, is the closest thing these is to the spectrum, of the sun.
The bulb has a 280nm-2400nm spectrum.
The Halide, will also keep the stretch down a bit, as the more Red, in the HPS, will for sure promote larger plants.
But while LED-HPS, Halide, can all grow good weed. I believe the Halide, brings out more expressions in the plants.
While anyone can say anything.
MMS claims they did do chemical testing Halide vs HPS, and the Halide, had a more varied chemical profile.
IMHO a 600w is best, for a 3ft x 3ft area. 400w- 2.5ft x 2.5ft. 1000w 4ft x 4ft.
DanKiller
Well-Known Member
MH and HPS science is getting old, HPS wins everytime solely due to light output.
All results and conclusions about quality in the HIDs realm (yes even CMH) are pointing at sheer output as king, not spectrum.
The difference between MH bud and HPS bud ? Marginal at best if any.
No reason to lose 30% light at the same watt.
Remember, genetics are 99% responsible for what you'll get, not the lights.. well except LEDs which bombard plants with EMF aswell.
If you like the performance of LEDs, always split your HIDs, spread is king.
All results and conclusions about quality in the HIDs realm (yes even CMH) are pointing at sheer output as king, not spectrum.
The difference between MH bud and HPS bud ? Marginal at best if any.
No reason to lose 30% light at the same watt.
Remember, genetics are 99% responsible for what you'll get, not the lights.. well except LEDs which bombard plants with EMF aswell.
If you like the performance of LEDs, always split your HIDs, spread is king.
Zogs
Well-Known Member
I grew in my basement with cooler temps all the way down to 62f @ lights out for years without issue. However, with a few adjustments I was able to bump up my temps to mid 70's plus. Assuming you are in a tent, close off your intake flaps at the bottom of your tent. Use flexible ducting to passively pull air in from the upper ports of your tent. Have your exhaust pulling from the bottom ports of you tent. Basically the opposite of what every one else does to solve their problem of too much heat. This way you can keep your led's and save your power bill.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
This with some dehumidification is usually enough. If not try adding low watts incandescent with some hanging height and preferably some dimming to your grow tent. After that you have all the led cheat tricks for higher heating needs of winter.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Thats a strange thing, we burn a bit of gas heater and our humidity goes up. If the furnace area is so dry try drying your washed clothes there, its the heat and not the water going missing. Fire normally creates humidity its the reverse of photosynthesis (more or less).
7CardBud
Well-Known Member
My guess to what is happening is all the moisture from the combustion and the slightly damp warm air around the burner are getting sucked up by the damper and exhausted out of the basement. The only thing left is the cold dry air in the rest of the basement.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
The standard furnace setup is that its vented somewhere. If not there is humidity problems. If you have normal rh at low temps then it drops drastically as it gets warmer around the furnace. But this wont get rid of the absolute humidity; the water in the air needs to go somewhere it cannot magically disappear
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
This would be the case if the exhaust stayed in the space but of course it doesn't most of the time.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Right. It goes up the flue.