Anyone know what causes this?

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
If it's only a couple random leaves it's likely nothing to worry about. Nute problems will show up on all leaves in the same class all around the plant. Like low N will start causing all the oldest fan leaves to begin fading to yellow and bad pH will cause micronute lockouts making the grow tips look weird.

:peace:
 
If it's only a couple random leaves it's likely nothing to worry about. Nute problems will show up on all leaves in the same class all around the plant. Like low N will start causing all the oldest fan leaves to begin fading to yellow and bad pH will cause micronute lockouts making the grow tips look weird.

:peace:
Thank you so much for the feedback! Yeah, it’s just a few leaves. I did have 1 leaf that had 3 straight brown lines going from side to side, like a leaf miner strip I have not seen anything like it since I I plucked the fan leaf.
 
So I am now running into the problem of seeing more and more of these leaves? Any suggestions? PH runoff is 6.2, I’ve been giving them 3 wk cronk nutes, and just flushed them due to salt buildup, I’m guessing it’s more so a deficiency problem with the leaves the way they are
 

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OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
So I am now running into the problem of seeing more and more of these leaves? Any suggestions? PH runoff is 6.2, I’ve been giving them 3 wk cronk nutes, and just flushed them due to salt buildup, I’m guessing it’s more so a deficiency problem with the leaves the way they are
Those leaves are too dark for it to be a deficiency problem in most cases. More likely an excess of something interfering with other things.

Almost looks like a boron deficiency which is rare but I had one like that a few years ago and after a dose of boric acid from the drug store it stopped. It's about the only thing that starts off with necrotic spots between the veins.

What are you growing them in? And what are you using for nutes? And how are you collecting a sample of the runoff for testing?

Take a look at this chart. I've found it very useful to ferret out problems with my plants over the years but you really have to play detective sometimes to figure things out. As you've already flushed giving a well balanced, half-strength feed often fixes things.

JorgeCervantesCannabisDeficiencyChart.jpg

:peace:
 
I use Happy Frog potting soil, in 5 gallon fabric pots on risers in catch pans for PH run off, I am using Cronk Nutrients, cal mag, micronutrients, grow and bloom, I have a PH meter to read run off into catch pan and PH up and down to set proper PH on feed. Would it hurt if I gave it some boric acid?
 

TheWholeTruth

Well-Known Member
So I am now running into the problem of seeing more and more of these leaves? Any suggestions? PH runoff is 6.2, I’ve been giving them 3 wk cronk nutes, and just flushed them due to salt buildup, I’m guessing it’s more so a deficiency problem with the leaves the way they are
Looks like its either water droplets your getting on the leaves that are burning or you have a little moth in the tent as they chew simmilar marks on the leaves .

If you can get a full picture of the plant front and back in good lighting that would be good
 

TheWholeTruth

Well-Known Member
Not sure if it is a big problem like pests or nutrient problem, I’ve had fungus gnats for a few weeks but took care of most of them with mosquito bit tea, and the sticky yellow traps, my only thought is leaf miners maybe? Or something to do with the nutrients, happens to a couple leaves over a week or so
Whats all that white stuf on the leaves in the first two pictures near the area of damage ?
 

ec121

Well-Known Member
Not sure if it is a big problem like pests or nutrient problem
The first step when looking at leaf problems is trying to determine whether the issue is biotic (pests, disease) or abiotic (deficiency, environmental issue).

Abiotic disorders usually present with symmetry on the abnormalities, and biotic disorders usually present with random abnormalities.

That is, if you visually fold the leaf blade down the center (vertical vein), the left and right sides have similar patterns to the other side. It's not going to be perfect symmetry, but it will be close as compared to biotic abnormalities.

Once you've determined the problem is likely abiotic, you need to look at where on the plant the leaves were first affected. Clipping leaves and showing pics without reference if it's from the top or bottom of the plant is not going to help pinpoint it because deficiencies look similar and other information is needed.

For example, interveinal chlorosis at the bottom of the plant is usually a Mg deficiency but interveinal chlorosis at the top of the plant is usually an Fe deficiency. This is because when the plant is deficient in Mg, it can take it from the bottom of the plant and move it to the new growth (sacrifice the old for the new). However, Fe is unable to be translocated from older growth to new growth, so if there is an Fe deficiency, it will show up on the new growth first as it has no way of getting that nutrient.
 
The first step when looking at leaf problems is trying to determine whether the issue is biotic (pests, disease) or abiotic (deficiency, environmental issue).

Abiotic disorders usually present with symmetry on the abnormalities, and biotic disorders usually present with random abnormalities.

That is, if you visually fold the leaf blade down the center (vertical vein), the left and right sides have similar patterns to the other side. It's not going to be perfect symmetry, but it will be close as compared to biotic abnormalities.

Once you've determined the problem is likely abiotic, you need to look at where on the plant the leaves were first affected. Clipping leaves and showing pics without reference if it's from the top or bottom of the plant is not going to help pinpoint it because deficiencies look similar and other information is needed.

For example, interveinal chlorosis at the bottom of the plant is usually a Mg deficiency but interveinal chlorosis at the top of the plant is usually an Fe deficiency. This is because when the plant is deficient in Mg, it can take it from the bottom of the plant and move it to the new growth (sacrifice the old for the new). However, Fe is unable to be translocated from older growth to new growth, so if there is an Fe deficiency, it will show up on the new growth first as it has no way of getting that nutrient.
They have been cut from the bottom of the plant, towards the inner stem where they can’t get much light, I get one once in a while, I’m sure it’s nothing to worry about, I have been using mosquito bit tea and liquid feed they seem to be doing really well!
 

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What’s the best way to take pictures? With the lights on and phone tilted down toward plant, would like to know so I can get you photos that are clear enough to see for ya, thanks!
And to answer your question about the white stuff, I really didn’t notice it, until you said something, I’ll keep an eye out and see if I see anymore like that.
 
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