CFL's are stupid. I took them down.
- Thread starter fdd2blk
- Start date
beenthere donethat
Well-Known Member
nice fuckin plants, btw.....
i rearranged things this morning. i will get some good pics when the sun is right. maybe this evening.
Major_Nuggz
Well-Known Member
go big you'll be happy you did
1000w mh 3 weeks from clone
1000w mh 3 weeks from clone
Attachments
mogie
Well-Known Member
Learned a little trick accidently.
When the plant is about a month old I give mine a diluted drink of OMRI Alaska fish fert. This causes the stems to become rubbery. Only seems to last for a few days. The branches bow out (same effect as when people tie large plants down almost) and seem to become thicker. This allows more light to reach each stem and each potential bud site.
I don't have any exact measurements. Just discovered this. Will take notes and keep track next year. But the fert is cheap (a gallon is less then $10).
Just one of my goofy experiments. They usually bomb though.
When the plant is about a month old I give mine a diluted drink of OMRI Alaska fish fert. This causes the stems to become rubbery. Only seems to last for a few days. The branches bow out (same effect as when people tie large plants down almost) and seem to become thicker. This allows more light to reach each stem and each potential bud site.
I don't have any exact measurements. Just discovered this. Will take notes and keep track next year. But the fert is cheap (a gallon is less then $10).
Just one of my goofy experiments. They usually bomb though.
that one seemed to work. i can see the colas already. HUGE. i know i mentioned elsewhere that the atf i got is a club clone. not sure if is the real deal but ours do look similar. except yours are nicer.
inbudwetrust
Well-Known Member
haha 237. I am using cfls, for only 4 plants they are great anything more than that you need to step your game up to HPS. my buds are going too rock though you need to dedicate about 4 lights to a plant so with four plants next to eachother you need eight, so you can have light on all parts of the plant.
mogie
Well-Known Member
I have been breaking the rules to see how far I can push it. I haven't test the ph level once yet. I know that it is more critical in flowering. I am at the point now where I am about to give in and start. I don't want to lose this crop it's looking too good. Any suggestions? Should I ride it out and not ph at all or give in and start ph testing my water?
kindprincess
Well-Known Member
im going to have to start my atf, it's from kenai ak, and is as close to original genes as a local alaskan can getthat one seemed to work. i can see the colas already. HUGE. i know i mentioned elsewhere that the atf i got is a club clone. not sure if is the real deal but ours do look similar. except yours are nicer.
soon as these hazex grow up, my atf is next
kp
hearmenow
Well-Known Member
I am sooooo jealous of your guys' outdoor grows! I wish I could plant mine in the ground too. Very nice looking plants, moge and fdd. One day, I'm going to buy a big ranch-style home in the boonies, with no neighbor for a mile and dedicated a track of land to a garden - not just cannabis but all sorts of plants to better hide from aerial view.
Major_Nuggz
Well-Known Member
If you have to change it do it slow..your plant has adjusted to its current ph level being bad or good its used to it...make your changes slow over a wek of watering to drop 1.0
mogie
Well-Known Member
Started today adjusting ph for the ATF it will be the first time all grow. Slowly (thx Major Nuggz) adjusting to normal. I want those buds nice and tight. My Romulan (you can see at the very left in the pic) is very different in growth. Plant very much showing signs of Sativa traights. Anyone else notice this with the Romulan x Hawiian Mango?
NO GROW
Well-Known Member
SERIOUSLY..........................NO JOKE......................
laserbrn
Well-Known Member
When I grew in soil I never checked my ph either. I used purified water. Checked it once and kept buying the same brand of water. Plants grew fine and healthy.
Now that I'm using hydro I definitely check PH, but unless it's WAYYYY off the charts, I haven't found that the plant cares that much about PH. Or of course if you are force feeding the plant using hydro.
Now that I'm using hydro I definitely check PH, but unless it's WAYYYY off the charts, I haven't found that the plant cares that much about PH. Or of course if you are force feeding the plant using hydro.
babygro
Well-Known Member
If you're growing in soil, why do you need to ph your irrigation water?
Compost is to a large extent self buffering, this depends on the ingredients in the compost, but most are. What this means in practical terms is this - the compost will come with it's own ph, usually somewhere between 6 - 7, and that is only going to move if you use either extremely acidic or alkaline irrigation water and lots of it and even then it will be a very slow movement and you'll have either repotted or harvested by the time it goes out of whack. You can improve soil buffering by the addition dolomite lime, which will ensure the compost ph can never go over 7.0 no matter how much alkaline water you feed it.
The use of commercial ph adjusters consisting of acids, can cause a lot more harm than good, particularly if you use a lot of them because they can kill the soil micro organisms and beneficial bacteria.
Seems crazy to do that in soil, if you don't have to.
If you must ph adjust your water, then use natural, organic non-harmful materials like citric and acetic acid, vinegar etc to lower ph and something like dolomite lime to raise it. Be aware though, that any ph adjusters used will affect the nutrient/water ec, so make sure you check your water/nutrient feed ec after you ph adjust.
