Light build/design help

[Mr.Estrain]

Will these work for heatsinks?

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[Mr.Estrain]

The aluminum cost a bit more, worked out to $235. I used a different mounting method and couldn't find it locally so it had to get shipped.

Just gotta get the power meter, junction box and potentiometer and all the fixings.

I'll post a pic when it's all done. I'm pretty excited for the build. Instead of a single central mounting point I'm going to use brackets on the outside of the spine on either side. I won't have to drill a hole on the heatsinks and it will be way more secure with it mounted on two sides.

 

[Mr.Estrain]

The hlg 320 36b is what I was thinking I need, am I correct that I'll have to wire everything in series? 36v @ 8.9A across 8x 36v strips

That would give me 1.1125A and 40 watts on each strip potentially?

Is there a better option or is that my best bet?

 

[Rocket Soul]

The hlg 320 36b is what I was thinking I need, am I correct that I'll have to wire everything in parallel? 36v @ 8.9A across 8x 36v strips

That would give me 1.1125A and 40 watts on each strip potentially?

Is there a better option or is that my best bet?

Double check voltage versus amps before buying that driver with the seller. I think ot will limit how many watts per strip. Those strips are usually a little over 36, and a few volts over at 40w

 

[1212ham]

The hlg 320 36b is what I was thinking I need, am I correct that I'll have to wire everything in parallel? 36v @ 8.9A across 8x 36v strips

That would give me 1.1125A and 40 watts on each strip potentially?

Is there a better option or is that my best bet?

Sounds good. I suggest getting that hlg with AB dimming. You don't need it, but you might as well get both types of dimming for a dollar or two more. The voltage limit can be used to set a max limit. If one or more strips fail or there's a wiring issue it can prevent the operating strips from drawing excess current.

 

[Mr.Estrain]

Sounds good. I suggest getting that hlg with AB dimming. You don't need it, but you might as well get both types of dimming for a dollar or two more. The voltage limit can be used to set a max limit. If one or more strips fail or there's a wiring issue it can prevent the operating strips from drawing excess current.

I just checked and they don't have any AB, the lead time is April!!, which I can't do.

I'll have to get the b version and do monthly checks with a multimeter on each strip.

I can't thank everyone enough for all the help and info.

 

[Mr.Estrain]

Double check voltage versus amps before buying that driver with the seller. I think ot will limit how many watts per strip. Those strips are usually a little over 36, and a few volts over at 40w

I anticipate only using 30-35 at most, will the voltage be adequate?

I noticed the b version has an operating range from 18-36v.
The a is a wider range but no dimming leads. I had planned on using a potentiometer so I need those dimming leads. But when I looked at the AB version it didn't have the leads?

Also there a 14 week lead time for them.

If I don't push the strips to the max will that 36v be good?

 

[Mr.Estrain]

Would the hlg320 2800ab work?

If I ran a parallel/series config? Would doing two parallel circuits in series, would that cut the amps in half but maintain the proper voltage?

 

[Rocket Soul]

I anticipate only using 30-35 at most, will the voltage be adequate?

I noticed the b version has an operating range from 18-36v.
The a is a wider range but no dimming leads. I had planned on using a potentiometer so I need those dimming leads. But when I looked at the AB version it didn't have the leads?

Also there a 14 week lead time for them.

If I don't push the strips to the max will that 36v be good?

I dunno. In fact i dont know which strips you bought exactly or did you link them? I know its a bit hard to link cause their page is usually multiple choice thingie. I do know the string structure: 12 whites and 2 monos in series if they havent changed it. Usually you count 3 V per white and each red 2 ish v. Thing is the whites are actually 2.7-8 at nominal so when ran very soft its close to 36.

But you would likely need a bit more. We used MW xlg drivers, constant power, but its maybe not the best option, prefer hlgs to be honest. They are both more efficient and dont run as hot but they will basically run any voltage between 27-57, and with even further efficiency loss once youre in the lower range. If you get A-type hlgs 36 you get a nice bit of extra power; both in that the drivers runs a bit higher amps than a on spec 100Kohm pot b-typ dimmed driver, since pot limits the driver to 100% spec, while the driver actually hasba bit more, like 110% almost. But also, since you regulate the voltage up a bit you gain another bit of extra power. Check

Meanwell report is more exact than the datasheet: collums are spec, condiotions and measurement, top sections are voltage and amps. You can always get these by google meanwell 'modelnr' report and then search on their web.
Ab version is tricky, doesnt have its own data sheet but from what ive heard qouted it hasnt got voltage regulation like standard A.
Another variant would be using a 42V B type driver.

Really, you ask cutter for full details but im more than fairly sure that a standard 36V driver will not give you more than possibly 20w. Ask cutter for full details on voltage at 40w output.

 

[Rocket Soul]

Would the hlg320 2800ab work?

If I ran a parallel/series config? Would doing two parallel circuits in series, would that cut the amps in half but maintain the proper voltage?

Youd have to do the maths i dont remember voltage of that one. You may be able to squeeze 3 in series, but all i got is back of the hand tight now. If you wanna do series parallel my guess is that 2 strips coupled with the right inventronics driver would be the best match, if you have their full range accessible they have some constant current drivers for hitting almost any range effectively . Look thru their datasheets and find one that has 80ish V max voltage and youre sweet but tbh it may be a bit of a mission. I have one distributor here and once deep dived but i dont remember all details nor know of availability. Model nr and octopart can help you find it if probs. Or check the full details with cutter and ask for advice

 

[Mr.Estrain]

I dunno. In fact i dont know which strips you bought exactly or did you link them? I know its a bit hard to link cause their page is usually multiple choice thingie. I do know the string structure: 12 whites and 2 monos in series if they havent changed it. Usually you count 3 V per white and each red 2 ish v. Thing is the whites are actually 2.7-8 at nominal so when ran very soft its close to 36.

But you would likely need a bit more. We used MW xlg drivers, constant power, but its maybe not the best option, prefer hlgs to be honest. They are both more efficient and dont run as hot but they will basically run any voltage between 27-57, and with even further efficiency loss once youre in the lower range. If you get A-type hlgs 36 you get a nice bit of extra power; both in that the drivers runs a bit higher amps than a on spec 100Kohm pot b-typ dimmed driver, since pot limits the driver to 100% spec, while the driver actually hasba bit more, like 110% almost. But also, since you regulate the voltage up a bit you gain another bit of extra power. Check
View attachment 5356231
Meanwell report is more exact than the datasheet: collums are spec, condiotions and measurement, top sections are voltage and amps. You can always get these by google meanwell 'modelnr' report and then search on their web.
Ab version is tricky, doesnt have its own data sheet but from what ive heard qouted it hasnt got voltage regulation like standard A.
Another variant would be using a 42V B type driver.

Really, you ask cutter for full details but im more than fairly sure that a standard 36V driver will not give you more than possibly 20w. Ask cutter for full details on voltage at 40w output.

I was just looking at the hlg320 c1050b, it's got the right voltage range but it's only 1050ma.

I'll email cutter and see what they recommend. I thought this was going to be pretty cut and dry going off the PLC video.

 

[Rocket Soul]

I was just looking at the hlg320 c1050b, it's got the right voltage range but it's only 1050ma.

I'll email cutter and see what they recommend. I thought this was going to be pretty cut and dry going off the PLC video.

Cant remember how the plc went. But basically feom what i gathered on these is that 36 is a no go, at least unless you get some confirmation.

 

[Mr.Estrain]

I think I got it.

The hlg320 2800b

57-114v @ 2.8A

So, if I hook 2 strips, 36v each, up in series (1 bar) and then connect the 8 bars in parallel wouldn't that give me 1.4A at 72v across the system?

 

[1212ham]

Putting pairs of strips in series doesn't change the current, it would be 2.8A at 72V across the system. The 2.8A would be divided among the 8 bars, so .35A per bar. As RS mentioned, a 42v HLG should work, but you really need to find out the exact strip voltage.

All About Drivers - Grow Lights Australia

Grow Lights Australia is an official Mean Well driver reseller. We have the best prices on Mean Well drivers with full Australian warranty.

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[Rocket Soul]

I think I got it.

The hlg320 2800b

57-114v @ 2.8A

So, if I hook 2 strips, 36v each, up in series (1 bar) and then connect the 8 bars in parallel wouldn't that give me 1.4A at 72v across the system?

Yeah but then youd only get 72x2.8 w output per driver. 2.8 would be divided over each 2 strip section. Your missing about 1/3 of driver output

Also the point is that it wont be 36 per strip. Id count 40 for good measure. This why i say inventronics 80ish v would be a nice fit. If i get some time ill try to dig out datasheets as im stil kinda considering these for future buys at least as an option next to GLA.
Edit
If you want to dive into inventronics drivers this is the page:

LED Drivers - Inventronics

Inventronics offers one of the largest LED driver product offering in the solid-state lighting industry. We are a leading global brand with over 15 years’ experience and continue to invest to meet customers’ needs for today and the future. Our LED drivers line includes constant-power...

www.inventronics-co.com

You wanna set it for constant current and adjustable. Look around the datasheet cause each model has several version depending on current, you want something top dc out voltage of around 80-95V for 2 strips in order for your strips to land within 80% of top voltage.Check with inventronics cause i really dont know which are obsolete, modern or us/euro market.

So another redit: the reason im loath to use a 42V driver for a 39-40ish strip is that i absolutely hate leaving watts unused, i usually spec very close to 30w/ft2 which is somewhat on the lower end; if i left 5-7% of the driver voltage unused its going to be even lower than 30w. But if you set up a 42V b-type dimming driver and just make sure you can disconnect your dimmer easily you shoul be able to access the extra amps out of that driver which will negate not using up all the watts. And in the end you are already on the higher end of watts. Im beginning to think i might be splitting hairs in your case and just go for 42V unless cutter comes with a better solution or info to negate my conclusions.
At least you have all the info now. Ive been thru this dilemma so always better to share.

Again, which strips did you end up buying? If you went for the 2700k 90cri in some version id really like to see the grow

 

[Mr.Estrain]

Putting pairs of strips in series doesn't change the current, it would be 2.8A at 72V across the system. The 2.8A would be divided among the 8 bars, so .35A per bar. As RS mentioned, a 42v HLG should work, but you really need to find out the exact strip voltage.

All About Drivers - Grow Lights Australia

Grow Lights Australia is an official Mean Well driver reseller. We have the best prices on Mean Well drivers with full Australian warranty.

growlightsaustralia.com

I thought when you doubled the volts of a load you halved the amps? I remember using 240v would do that for my old magnetic ballasts.

That was the premise I was working off of.

I thought 1.4 amps would be plenty. The data sheets for the strips say 500ma is 25 watts. I was only planning on going to 30-35 tbh, at 35watts they'll be way over 1000ppfd and I don't have co2. Figured anything over 35 watts would be useless to me?

 

[Mr.Estrain]

Yeah but then youd only get 72x2.8 w output per driver. 2.8 would be divided over each 2 strip section. Your missing about 1/3 of driver output

Also the point is that it wont be 36 per strip. Id count 40 for good measure. This why i say inventronics 80ish v would be a nice fit. If i get some time ill try to dig out datasheets as im stil kinda considering these for future buys at least as an option next to GLA.
Edit
If you want to dive into inventronics drivers this is the page:

LED Drivers - Inventronics

Inventronics offers one of the largest LED driver product offering in the solid-state lighting industry. We are a leading global brand with over 15 years’ experience and continue to invest to meet customers’ needs for today and the future. Our LED drivers line includes constant-power...

www.inventronics-co.com

You wanna set it for constant current and adjustable. Look around the datasheet cause each model has several version depending on current, you want something top dc out voltage of around 80-95V for 2 strips in order for your strips to land within 80% of top voltage.Check with inventronics cause i really dont know which are obsolete, modern or us/euro market.

So another redit: the reason im loath to use a 42V driver for a 39-40ish strip is that i absolutely hate leaving watts unused, i usually spec very close to 30w/ft2 which is somewhat on the lower end; if i left 5-7% of the driver voltage unused its going to be even lower than 30w. But if you set up a 42V b-type dimming driver and just make sure you can disconnect your dimmer easily you shoul be able to access the extra amps out of that driver which will negate not using up all the watts. And in the end you are already on the higher end of watts. Im beginning to think i might be splitting hairs in your case and just go for 42V unless cutter comes with a better solution or info to negate my conclusions.
At least you have all the info now. Ive been thru this dilemma so always better to share.

Again, which strips did you end up buying? If you went for the 2700k 90cri in some version id really like to see the grow

When I look at the 42b it has a constant voltage of 42. Will that work? The 42a has variable voltage but no dimming leads which I need. The 42ab is the same lead time issues, 14 weeks. Also it only had 7.65 amps, that's only 956.25 ma, would that be suffice?

What about the 1400b...

114-229v @1400ma

I could wire 4 strips is series and then wire the 2 sets of 4 in parallel. That would be 144-160v at 1400ma. Would that give me an equal 40watts to each strip?

I did order the 2700k 660 90cri strips. IF I can get this driver thing figured out and don't have to cancel the order. I will definitely post some follow ups

 

[Mr.Estrain]

I found a tool on their site to size the driver!!

It's all constant current drivers recommended. It's going to be either the hlg480 1400b or the hlg 320 1050b.

The strips produce enough lumens according to their data sheet a little under 30 watts, so I feel like the 320 is good?

Will there every be a time where I'm going north of 40watts?

 

[Mr.Estrain]

I went and did the maths. The 320 1050 will give me 312w and the 480 1400 will give 430w.

I'm going to go with the hlg320 1050, I think 39ish watts max is way more then enough. I only planned on going to 30-35 tops anyway.

Wish I seen that strip calculator tool earlier. Would have saved us some grief for sure. For a minute I thought the build was in jeopardy.

Pending any issues you guys or gals see, I feel like it's mission accomplished, again.

 

[1212ham]

I found a tool on their site to size the driver!!

It's all constant current drivers recommended. It's going to be either the hlg480 1400b or the hlg 320 1050b.

The strips produce enough lumens according to their data sheet a little under 30 watts, so I feel like the 320 is good?

Will there every be a time where I'm going north of 40watts?

Cutter has datasheets? Post a link, that's what we need! And a link to the strips.

I went and did the maths. The 320 1050 will give me 312w and the 480 1400 will give 430w.

I'm going to go with the hlg320 1050, I think 39ish watts max is way more then enough. I only planned on going to 30-35 tops anyway.

Wish I seen that strip calculator tool earlier. Would have saved us some grief for sure. For a minute I thought the build was in jeopardy.

Pending any issues you guys or gals see, I feel like it's mission accomplished, again.

Your build wasn't in jeopardy, you just need to ask Cutter the forward voltage for the 35 watts you want.

How can you use the calculator without knowing the forward voltage at 35w?

The only issue that comes to mind is that 300+ volts DC can kill. I was shocked with 600vdc as a kid, it's not something that one forgets. Ever.
I'm experienced and comfortable working with high voltage, but I would much rather work with safe voltage if it's an option. That's why I do parallel builds with low voltage and suggest a 42v HLG.