Help me treat this plant before it’s too late please

This is a white widow autoflower that has been doing really good so far. I am growing 3 of these in separate unconnected reservoirs. This particular plant has been my best one out of the 3 for some time now. I woke up the other day to a few leaf problems as seen in the pictures.

These discolored leaves are more towards the top of the plant. I also noticed that on this plant only, I am having to chase the PH up daily as of late. This is the only plant where I have to bring up the PH period. The rest I usually have to add PH down. In fact, I opened the new bottle of PH up that I had for 6 months just to treat this plant. Every morning it’s back down to 5.20 or so, I bring it up to 6.0, it lasts a day. Then it’s back down again. Tap water with a ppm of around 150 before any nutrition added.
‘My ppm is at 600 and ec seems to be 1.2. If I let the ppm get any higher on these plants they get sick and I have to do a tank change and let them recover for a few days before adding back nutrient.image.jpg

so I don’t know if the PH is a clue to any sort of malnutrition or over feeding I may be doing, but I’m scared shitless to add or remove anything without advice. About a month ago I added a teaspoon of epsom salt to the 3 gallon reservoirs and it almost killed one of these, that one is now my smallest stunted plant that never really fully recovered and it used to be my biggest! image.jpgimage.jpg

tia
Kevin
 
The roots are in between brown and white but there’s no slime on them. I’m not sure if it’s root rot setting in or not. I’m adding about a gallon of water every 2 days, this plant is swigging up the water (it’s a 3 gallon reservoir). Does this sound normal?
 

TCH

Well-Known Member
The roots are in between brown and white but there’s no slime on them. I’m not sure if it’s root rot setting in or not. I’m adding about a gallon of water every 2 days, this plant is swigging up the water (it’s a 3 gallon reservoir). Does this sound normal?
It's been a long time since I have done DWC, but if it is drinking the water really fast, there's a definite possibility that the ph will swing with that because it will not drink up all the nutrients evenly, causing the fluctuation.
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
The roots are in between brown and white but there’s no slime on them. I’m not sure if it’s root rot setting in or not. I’m adding about a gallon of water every 2 days, this plant is swigging up the water (it’s a 3 gallon reservoir). Does this sound normal?
pic of the roots would help

it's either overfeeding to lockout or rot or both IMO
 
Sorry I am so late, had to work a 12 today.

this picture of the roots is about the best that I can do. I could not pull the plant up any higher because it overgrew the opening.717F28C6-1EDF-420F-9B61-E8DEA6E32037.jpeg
 

curious2garden

Well-Known Mod
Staff member
what medium are you using in those netpots?
Yeah, I always used hydroton/leica in my net pots this seems if you have your bubbles high up it could rot the base but it doesn't look bad. I'm going with Ca lockout because of position of the spots on the plants and the punctate rust spots usually indicative of Ca and if higher up with those spots I'd be guessing K. LOL
 
I’m using coco as a medium. I know there are better choices but it’s all I had at the time.

I’m not as freaked out as I was the other day when I made this post, because the damaged seem to be isolated to these couple of leaves and have not spread

Now that I remember, I was kind of baked that night, but I added a teaspoon of mag pro send the next day when I checked my PH and ppm I recall them being a little higher than I liked, so I siphoned out a gallon of water and replaced it with a clean gallon with nothing in it, so I would not be surprised if it is a mag issue. And if I’m correct, then I did the right thing or it could have been much worse.

These plants are about a week or two from harvest. If I can just get through from now until then.
 

curious2garden

Well-Known Mod
Staff member
I’m using coco as a medium. I know there are better choices but it’s all I had at the time.

I’m not as freaked out as I was the other day when I made this post, because the damaged seem to be isolated to these couple of leaves and have not spread

Now that I remember, I was kind of baked that night, but I added a teaspoon of mag pro send the next day when I checked my PH and ppm I recall them being a little higher than I liked, so I siphoned out a gallon of water and replaced it with a clean gallon with nothing in it, so I would not be surprised if it is a mag issue. And if I’m correct, then I did the right thing or it could have been much worse.

These plants are about a week or two from harvest. If I can just get through from now until then.
It's not an Mg issue it's either Ca or K and based on location on the plant.... I'd suggest removing those leaves and watching it to see if you get progression
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
Do you think I should try adding or taking any nutrients away? I’ve never let my ppm get about more than 600. All I use is dyna gro, dyna bloom and mag pro. And sometimes a squirt of hydrogen peroxide. Never added anything else
KISS always works.
 

curious2garden

Well-Known Mod
Staff member
Do you think I should try adding or taking any nutrients away? I’ve never let my ppm get about more than 600. All I use is dyna gro, dyna bloom and mag pro. And sometimes a squirt of hydrogen peroxide. Never added anything else
What is your Ca additive because that's what it looks like they want. Further I run only in Coco and I don't have issues but I use CaliMagic which is both a Ca and Mg additive.

I don't remember Dyna Grow or Dyna Bloom having any Ca. I run DynaGro's Foliage Pro in veg all the time but have to add my Ca/Mg additive or I get a similar def.

The problem I had with Dyna Bloom is it precipitated out on me and I threw K and P def's in flower. DG was great and replaced the bottle twice. So I gave up using it and stuck with my GH Flora trio I'd been using since '96. @ISK is who got me using DynaGro maybe he can take a look at your plants and help you get them fixed up with those nutrients.
 
I’ve only used the Dyna gro pro tekt which is silica, foliage pro while in veg and then the bloom as soon as they started to show signs of flower. I’ve added very lightly the mag pro which says it’s high in phosphorus, magnesium and sulfur (2-15-4). I’ve been a bit concerned about adding any more.
 

ISK

Well-Known Member
What is your Ca additive because that's what it looks like they want. Further I run only in Coco and I don't have issues but I use CaliMagic which is both a Ca and Mg additive.

I don't remember Dyna Grow or Dyna Bloom having any Ca. I run DynaGro's Foliage Pro in veg all the time but have to add my Ca/Mg additive or I get a similar def.

The problem I had with Dyna Bloom is it precipitated out on me and I threw K and P def's in flower. DG was great and replaced the bottle twice. So I gave up using it and stuck with my GH Flora trio I'd been using since '96. @ISK is who got me using DynaGro maybe he can take a look at your plants and help you get them fixed up with those nutrients.
I tried Dyna Gro Foliage Pro because of a several excellent RIU growers who spoke well of it.

I have not had great success with it and have reverted back to GH Maxi grow/bloom .

I found it does work well in the veg state but I've had less success with it in the flower stage.

I also use a bit of Cal-mag in the veg stage.

I have given away much of my DG to friends that grow in soil and they seem to really like it.

I grow in the hempy style so maybe that's a factor, or maybe it's just me not using it properly.

cheers
 
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I’m not going to use it again either.

one thing I am going to use again in the veg state is Jacks 13-2-13. I got several bags of this dry fertilizer for free as it was included with the hydro kits I bought on sale. Just for giggles I mixed up 1 tsp per gallon and dissolved it in several hydro plant buckets I started and these damned things took off. In fact, they grew so bushy 2 plants crowded each other out of my 3x3 grow space and I had trouble controlling them. And still am. I’m talking big lush green shrubs lol. So healthy looking and when I trimmed off leaves water squirted out of the stems.

I’ve since changed them over to Dyna bloom as I initiated the flower cycle and am crossing my fingers that they keep on like they were.

CEC74696-79B2-45A2-8DA9-E61CB08212F6.jpeg
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
Is there a homemade recipe to get some ca into there? I do not believe there are any hydro stores within 50 miles of me, I live in a po dump town
i looked at that pic again. roughly how many leaves have the brownspots on them? i only see maybe 5 or so. are there any rust spots on any new growth?

and to answer your question: you could get 3 sources for Ca; calcium nitrate (ca, N) , calcium chloride or a bottle of cal/mg (N, ca, mg)

if there are less than 10 leaves with spots, i'm gonna guess your tap water is close to how much Ca you need edit: along with the DG bottles which have 2% Ca
 

curious2garden

Well-Known Mod
Staff member
I tried Dyna Gro Foliage Pro because of a several excellent RIU growers who spoke well of it.

I have not had great success with it and have reverted back to GH Maxi grow/bloom .

I found it does work well in the veg state but I've had less success with it in the flower stage.

I also use a bit of Cal-mag in the veg stage.

I have given away much of my DG to friends that grow in soil and they seem to really like it.

I grow in the hempy style so maybe that's a factor, or maybe it's just me not using it properly.

cheers
I love Foliage Pro for veg but it never worked for me in flower. I'm so lazy though it's easier to use it than my three part GH and it works great in veg. I keep thinking about trying Maxi series. I hate paying for water and I know better! Thanks so much for jumping in and helping out.
 
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