Jacks 10-30-20 for the First Week of Bloom (no calcium)

plumsmooth

Well-Known Member
I can not find any logic to this Cannabis Feed Shedule (from Jacks Cannabis Feed schedule on wibsite) other than if the Plant some how stops using Calcium as a response right away to the Light Switch to 12/12? Which I highly doubt....

However since lately I almost always seems to delelop mild Potassium Deificency right around 2-3 Weeks Flowering I have considerede it might be a way to allow for easier K uptake for the first 2 weeks of flowering by removing the Antagonist of K Calcium?

Otherwise it makes bascially no sense to me unless Calcium is that Mobile that the Plant can draw it and otherwise doesn't need it for a week?

Why would one remove the most important seconday Nutrient for any amount of time???
 

Cabrone

Well-Known Member
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It does not list any calcium in the analysis. The only info it gives about calcium it states
"potential acidity: 417 lbs of calcium carbonate equivalent per ton"
I do not know what that means.
 

Missouri Green

Active Member
thinking the 10-30-20 is for tap water which has Ca usually.... also the K is no higher than 5-12-26. i see no reason you couldn't add Ca to your preferred concentration. not an expert just a hobbyist . i'm debating using the bloom, its only recommended to be applied for one week... maybe go 50/50 standard/bloom this is the Jacks RO chart but the 5-12-26 is
the same....
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rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
Otherwise it makes bascially no sense to me unless Calcium is that Mobile that the Plant can draw it and otherwise doesn't need it for a week?
jacks says that their finish formula needed no Ca as the plant has enough Ca to last the 2 weeks until harves that you would use that formula.
 

Missouri Green

Active Member
I can not find any logic to this Cannabis Feed Shedule (from Jacks Cannabis Feed schedule on wibsite) other than if the Plant some how stops using Calcium as a response right away to the Light Switch to 12/12? Which I highly doubt....

However since lately I almost always seems to delelop mild Potassium Deificency right around 2-3 Weeks Flowering I have considerede it might be a way to allow for easier K uptake for the first 2 weeks of flowering by removing the Antagonist of K Calcium?

Otherwise it makes bascially no sense to me unless Calcium is that Mobile that the Plant can draw it and otherwise doesn't need it for a week?

Why would one remove the most important seconday Nutrient for any amount of time???
I wrote Jr. Peters about this subject and the rep responded that the 10-30-20 formula was for Tap water with higher levels of Ca and Mg and I think was historically primarily for soil and that the one week recomended period was to avoid possible deficiencies. here's exactly what he said
"10-30-20 does work a bit better when using tap water with a decent amount of free calcium and magnesium or even in soil, but the idea was to use it for a short enough time to try to avoid deficiencies. It is a good formula for what it was designed for but a lot of growers are starting to move away from it and just feed the 321 at the recommended 2.4 EC or have switched to the 6-6-26 321 schedule. The 6-6-26 Part A schedule uses the 6-6-26 Part A in veg and then changes to 5-12-26 through flower, but either way you would be fine sticking with the 321 instead of using 10-30-20."
 

Missouri Green

Active Member
if you play with hydro buddy you can add the 321 at 3.4,2.26,1.13 plus (for me) powerSi 2ml/gal, then MKP at 1.27g/gal and MAP at 1.91 g/gal (this mix is for 2.4ec which seems really high to me but thats what Jr Peters recomends so for arguments sake i used that ec here)
so if you do that you get numbers very close to the 10-30-20 formula but you're micros will be ruduced relative to just running the 321 at 2.4ec .... although you will have close to your normal numbers for Mg Ca and S... where as the 10-30-20 has almost none if you're using RO . i've just started with Jacks 321 in the last year... i'm going to start by keeping it simple and see what happens, maybe next run i will tweek the PK more. here's my baby, she just hit 1.8 ec after being around 1.1 for nearly 5 weeks. Ec was taken upwards because Ec has been declining daily by about 30-40 ppm over the last week.. starting week 7 now and almost ready to flip her. its only about 13 inches tall, been training er pretty hard.
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nxsov180db

Well-Known Member
Jacks still follows the old belief that you need a P boost to form flowers. In more recent times its become a common belief that P levels should stay low. I've gotten P toxicity at 100ppm before and that 10-30-20 is going to have your P at around 200 ppm. I did try the full schedule several months ago just to see and I wasn't happy with the results, I felt my grow was better with what I normally had fed previously from day 1 to harvest. That initial P boost and final K boost are from old beliefs. Weed wants less nutrients later in flower not more. Anyone that feels a need to improve their current nutrient regime should look into increasing the Ca. The Ca ppm should be just as high as the N ppm. When you're using bags or bottles that have the N coming from sources other than Calcium Nitrate your Ca is always going to be low unless you use Calcium Chloride or gypsum. You might not have deficiencies but that doesn't mean the plant doesn't want more,
 
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