Precipitation and clouding in nutrient?

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
As the title suggests I'm getting some problems with the nutrient.

To begin with I was using canna ab with a few drops silica (with potassium added) to correct the ph I've since noticed some precipitate at the bottom of the reservoir.
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I gathered it and let it settle and it looked like rust, I've deleted the settled pics by mistake but here's the one before settling.
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Since this I've tried putting the silica in 1st, leaving the silica out and removing the pump to prevent heat build up.

The last tank I mixed ab no nothing for ph and the temps kept around 20c that's the best I can do just now.
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It's clouding, yesterday I added bleach but after I seen it was clouding its made no difference maybe it to late, maybe its something I'm overlooking?
 

mudballs

Well-Known Member
I know the bleach played a part in the second clouding. That's what it does it binds with stuff...like a poolshock...honestly i forget the chem but yeah, that bleach did shit if you put enough in
 

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
I know the bleach played a part in the second clouding. That's what it does it binds with stuff...like a poolshock...honestly i forget the chem but yeah, that bleach did shit if you put enough in
I didn't put the bleach into canna only mixture until after it clouded.

On my last crop I used ab, mpk and few drops of silica with no problems that's what made think it's maybe being caused by the pump heating the water it was at 23c
 

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
There's some kind of progress, there's no physical precipitate without the pump and silica.
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I'm into the 7th week of flowering the last thing I need is nutrient problems.
 

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
I've got a standby on hand and the tank needs filled.
I think I'll continue with the canna issue at later date.
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Iirc canna has a support center I'll email them and see what they say.

????
We've got drought condition atm for real.
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I wonder if the extremely low water levels have anything to do with it, the reservoirs at their bones.
The only time I've had problems was when I mixed ab, silica, pk, H202 and all that jazz lol.
 

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
I've since realized filling water from the bathroom isn't ideal in summer the water is stored in my attic it's warm and I can't smell chlorine from it like I can with mains water, most likely the chlorine smell is related to the mains being pressurized so chlorine doesn't evaporated, I've also found that the water tank ph is unusually low at 6.2ph.

Since around week 3 of 12-12 I've fed 3-4 times a day with 15% run off +/-.... Then

Thursday i filled the tank with only 1 part ionic 1.2ec with same feed schedule, yesterday the run off was 2.1-2.2ec wtf?
I've since sorted that.

I refilled the the tank yesterday and when I checked the ph it was 5.2 which I confirmed by drops, ionic will generally land around 6.0ph, it was only after this i realized the my source ph has changed from a reliable 7.2 to 6.2 which i suspect drought related, idk?

Is there any reason a low pH water would cause precipitation?
 

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
Water and 1 part ionic kept between 15/17c?
What's interesting is the precipitation is the same in colour to the precipitation from canna?
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I think I've ruled out all possibilities within my control i can't think of anything else it could be atm, I'll need to think about it more but feel free to tag in :-)
 

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
OK... back to canna, everything has been cleaned and sterilized again.
Screenshot_20220727-004626.png
I've put ice in to keep the temp down around 15-17c and I've put the pump back in to keep it mixed, fingers crossed but I'm not optimistic unless temperature/algea can cause precipitation?

Let's see what happens :?:
 

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
I got a reply from Canna...

There could be a couple of reasons as to why you are experiencing this, mostly down to the quality of the water that you are starting with.

The precipitation that you see is from calcium and phosphor meeting each other at too high a concentration within the solution. When the concentrations of these two elements are too high in the same solution, they will form gypsum (plaster of paris) and will be rendered useless for the plant. You will see it solidify in the solution and drop/settle to the bottom of the container.

This reaction of too high a calcium and phosphor levels also happens more readily, at a higher pH level in a solution.

Both of these issues can be exacerbated when trying to prepare a nutrient solution in Hard Water Areas. Hard water (typically) contains a lot of calcium already, and contains relatively more bi-carbonates and as such is typically quite alkaline.

You should test your tap water, before adding any nutrients, so you correct it accordingly when necessary.

CANNA TERRA and COCO nutrients should be used alongside ´Normal Water´ to be most effective for your plant when you water. Normal water has an EC of 0.4-0.5. If your EC is over this then there are two options for you to consider before adding your base nutrients.

The first option is more of a quick fix ,and depending on the overall quality hardness may not work, but is worth at least trying before any further investment is required.

However it involves knowing the amount of pH adjuster you normally use after adding your nutrients, and adding it BEFORE anything else.

So…

1) Fill your reservoir with cold water.
2) Allow 24 hours to get up to temperature (18-22 degrees C) and allow chlorines to evaporate.
3) Add the amount of pH adjuster (pH minus) to your water and wait until the pH has stabilised.
This will nuetralise the alkalinity of the solution and so lower the chances of the precipitation from high levels of calcium and phosphor.
4) Now add your part A to the reservoir and stir
5) Now add your part B to the reservoir and stir
6) Now add your additives (in the order: PK13/14, CANNAZYM, BOOST then RHIZOTONIC)and stir between each
7) Check your pH again (which should be ok), adjust further if necessary.

If this method of adding the pH adjuster in first does not work, then you will need to use an Reverse Osmosis (RO) machine to make your own ´Normal Hardness´ of water and then follow the usual nutrient mixing order:

1) Fill your reservoir with cold Tap water.
1a) Add RO water until your reservoir reads an EC of 0.4
2) Allow 24 hours to get up to temperature (18-22 degrees C) and allow chlorines to evaporate.
4) Now add your part A to the reservoir and stir
5) Now add your part B to the reservoir and stir
6) Now add your additives (in the order: PK13/14, CANNAZYM, BOOST then RHIZOTONIC) and stir between each.
7) Check and correct pH
8) Wait 20-30 minutes, to recheck pH and re-correct if necesarry (to allow bicarbonates to settle)
9) Use

I hope the above helps you to get the most out of your CANNA products and see just how effective they can be.
End of reply...


So I'm no further forward, I've replied explaining my water is 0.0.

When it start with saying water quality i think drought conditions?

We've had next to no rain this year, droughts are pretty rare around here and so is problems with precipitation I can't help thinking it's related, also check the temp they recommend that's within the temps I've had.

Feel free to tag in I'm fkn lost.
 

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
A reply regarding the 0.0ec water.

Thank for the information.

At this starting EC level, you should not see any precipitation from adding A+B at the recomended levels. Please can you confirm how much of each A and B you are adding per litre of water.

Which bottles is it you are using? If they are the 1 litre bottles and you have not shaken them before dosing, then when you dose the liquid from the measuring spout it may be a more concentrated solution settled towards the bottom of the bottle that is being dosed if they have been stood still for a while. This is why it is important to shake each bottle before dosing.

Secondly, how exactly are you adding the dosed amount into the 40 Litre reservoir? You need to make sure you are adding part A and part B seperately, and stir the solution thoroughly between each part. If each part isn´t stirred in correctly before adding the next, then the concentrated part B will hit the un-stirred part A, and this reaction may occurr more readily. It may be worh detailing out step by step exacly what you are doing to help us identify what is causing the problem.

Lastly, you should always pH correct to within 5.5 to 6.5 after you have added you nutrients.

Also, it is worth mentioning that we do not recomend to use R.O water (I presume this is what you are using with an E.C of 0). CANNA Coco nutrients are designed to be used alongside normal hardness of water. This is because there are plant available minerals needed in there, but also because of a certain level of bi-carbonates that help to stabilise pH. Could you please also confirm the source of your starting water.

Lets try to get to the bottom of this
End...
:wall::wall::wall:
 

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
It's sorted, for now at least :bigjoint:
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Filled on Wednesday, i added 5 ltr of water on Friday to lower the ec. Pic 5 mins ago.

I filled it from the mains and had the recirculating pump set to 15 minutes on/off I've also kept ice packs going in morning and evening to keep the temp down (18c max)
I still don't know the cause but that's less important to me for now.

Hey @rkymtnman spots that look like this?
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:weed:
 

farmerfischer

Well-Known Member
Spots look like a calcium def/ lock to me as well.. leaves look pretty dark too, sign of to much nitrogen.. just from what i can see.. i maybe wrong on the latter..
 
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