i’ll not buy another led until..

i’d be willing to pay 10-20% extra to cover the build and shipping costs of bigger heatsinks

  • yes

    Votes: 14 46.7%

  • no

    Votes: 16 53.3%
  • Total voters
    30
Hollatchaboy

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
crimsonecho said:
when i buy a vehicle i expect to run it floored whenever i want without any problems and otherwise i wouldnt buy that car. if i was feeding off the music i’d probably crank the stereo up too :)

max level should still mean safe for the fixture and its components. you’d be really pissed if your car blew up when you floored it because that level of gas is not nominal.

why when i say these lights should be built better you guys say other stuff is not properly built either.
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Well, since there's a speed limit, traffic, pedestrians, I find it hard to believe, you drive floored at all times, unless you just wind out the gears, which imo, isn't very smart. Race cars are built to be driven balls to the wall, at all times, not daily drivers.
PadawanWarrior said:
Yes I floor it a lot. And my stereo is cranked to 11 most of the time. I turn it down at stoplights though so I'm not one of those guys though. It doesn't hurt speakers unless you're getting distortion. My stereo actually takes more power than my lights. It's like 1000 watts.
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You must go thru a lot of vehicles and stereos. Lol
 
Frank Nitty

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
PadawanWarrior said:
You're talking about Max watts. I go by the true RMS wattage. I have a JL W7 and a JL 500/1 for my sub. An alpine 350 watt for my rear Infinity speakers. And a 100 watt Kenwood for the front Infinity's. And my deck is an older Alpine that only has pre-amp outputs (no internal power). I can control each set individually.

I like it loud, but also super clean. I'm kinda an audiophile.
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This is the ultimate setup!!!
crimsonecho said:
treated me fine just didnt fit well in my new setup of 4 20 gallon plastic pots and multi strain grows. plus it was getting old at this point. 4 years old. but seeing the plug and play stuff out there i definitely think hey maybe i should have renew the diodes changed out the fans and let it rip!
i havent thrown it away or anything i may return back to using it after this next grow with the new fixtures.
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I love it!!! Cob setup, correct???
 
Hollatchaboy

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
crimsonecho said:
when i buy a vehicle i expect to run it floored whenever i want without any problems and otherwise i wouldnt buy that car. if i was feeding off the music i’d probably crank the stereo up too :)

max level should still mean safe for the fixture and its components. you’d be really pissed if your car blew up when you floored it because that level of gas is not nominal.

why when i say these lights should be built better you guys say other stuff is not properly built either.
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Try running your breaker box at max... see what happens.
 
PadawanWarrior

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Hollatchaboy said:
Right, I understand that, but your amp is made for a max level, and a nominal level. Past nominal is when total harmonic distortion starts to come into play.
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Well I don't turn it up more than the speakers can handle. But my sub can take all 500 watts no problem without any distortion. I think what you're saying is if the speakers can't handle the power they will distort and I can agree with that.
 
crimsonecho

crimsonecho

Well-Known Member
cobshopgrow said:
youre basing your estimations on what migro guessed in a youtbue video.
nothing wrong with that, it gives the direction and tells us some but its no absolute number.
most people here struggle to give 100% on their given area, so their fixtures will last way longer.
also consider that most of the people here would have replaced their fixture within 4y.
4y is a long time for diodes.
with corona and the ukraine war, update rates on diodes became slower, still 4y is a long time for a LED.
and youre still at 80% output.
am using my EB3 bridgelux now since 3y quite constant and measure with a spectrometer.
do underive them heavily, havent noticed any loss in output.
bigest losses will be due to dirt or nicotine stuck to them.
they hardly have seem temps above 30c as bare pcbs without heatsinks,i expect them to last years more but would buy EB4 or 5s if theyre out finally.
simply for power saving reasons which are important atm.

even if you place mid power diodes almost next to each other (which is stupid) youre not going to gain the density of a COB.

when comparing COBs and mid power leds see the typical power used per area.
huuuge difference there, never forget that, do the math.
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i wouldnt call it a guess tho he had measurement and although the also states that the test included a small group of lights for each brand (1 for each i guess) the numbers are there and the heat is there too,

again you make the assumptions you’re free to do of course but should speculations about future tech justify subpar designs and false advertisement.

i know that we’ll not reach the density of the cobs you can run a cob on those flimsy heatsinks for sure. it’ll burn out very very fast, but why i’m saying is mid sized smds still put out a shit ton of heat.

so again when you buy a 680w light and you cant run it at 100% because you know the fixture cant handle it properly have you really bought a 680w fixture. imo no.
 
PadawanWarrior

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Hollatchaboy said:
Well, since there's a speed limit, traffic, pedestrians, I find it hard to believe, you drive floored at all times, unless you just wind out the gears, which imo, isn't very smart. Race cars are built to be driven balls to the wall, at all times, not daily drivers.

You must go thru a lot of vehicles and stereos. Lol
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What makes you say that?

Oh, and my car has a slightly bigger engine, header, exhuast, intake, coil overs and shit. It actually feels like a racecar with my Azenis on. I can take corners at double the speed limit no problem, :lol:. It's fun to fuck with people if I can get them to try to keep up around corners. Some people almost eat shit trying to keep up, lol.
 
Hollatchaboy

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
PadawanWarrior said:
Well I don't turn it up more than the speakers can handle. But my sub can take all 500 watts no problem without any distortion. I think what you're saying is if the speakers can't handle the power they will distort and I can agree with that.
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The amp itself will distort, whether the speakers can handle the load or not. It's just the nature of gain. Speakers will distort if you try to run more than their nominal power. The closer you get to max, the more the thd goes up.
 
LeastExpectedGrower

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
MICHI-CAN said:
External mounts on drivers. Fan cooled. 2 in 4'x4'. 40% max is overkill. Will get my $350's worth per light. View attachment 5139191
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Yep, In my case, it's not worth moving the drivers outside of the tent Even with 3x those 225's running full out, I'm staying in the 'comfy range' for my plants w/o AC.

For all the talk of extra cost of decent heat sinks, there are companies that do use decent hardware.
 
Hollatchaboy

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
PadawanWarrior said:
What makes you say that?

Oh, and my car has a slightly bigger engine, header, exhuast, intake, coil overs and shit. It actually feels like a racecar with my Azenis on. I can take corners at double the speed limit no problem, :lol:. It's fun to fuck with people if I can get them to try to keep up around corners. Some people almost eat shit trying to keep up, lol.
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For sure I get that, but a stock daily driver is made for nominal use. Not balls to the wall at all times. Those will take a shit, quick, fast and in a hurry, if you drive them like that.
 
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