NFTG. Nectar For The Gods

pahpah-cee

Well-Known Member
So my last run I did the 2 Gelat.og plants. One Nectar and everything that goes with it and the other plant I used the fox farm line. I can tell a huge difference between the plants. So alot of people say with nectar you get better quality but not huge yields, but with my last grow the fox farm plant was a week older than the nectar plant and yielded about the same, also the nectar plant has nicer terpenes and is alot smoother (barely makes me cough). The high is different also, the fox farm plant is good but nothing special actually gives me a little anxiety kinda racey, the nectar plant I can tell has better medical benefits, very well rounded high leaving me blissful. Like I said the ff plant isnt bad but the difference has me retiring fox farm Lol. I'm using this style of growing from now on. Whether it's with nectar or whatever better comes out. Hopefully they keep doing well and doing what they're doing so I can stick with them for many years to come. Shit I have atleast 40 more years of growing I'm still on my way up the hill. Can't wait to see what the future holds. By then we'll probably just be growing giant trichomes Lol
That’s awesome to hear. I almost bought the FF trio as well but I listened to a podcast where a dude claimed the FF trio caused his Tourette’s to tick. Totally freaked me out since my wife and I are using this medicinally throughout the day. That’s kind of what kicked off my adventure into finding a organic nutrient line. I’m stoked to try it. The difference in the way you describe the high will justify all this craziness I put my wife through In starting my own grow. It’s wild to me to think off all salt grown weed I’ve smoked over my life. Where I’m from the market is so over saturated that there is no way its grown with what I something I would be comfortable with.


hopefully nectar has a decent profit margin on Herc. I feel like I can single handedly keep them in business with how fast I’m going through it.
 

bubba73

Well-Known Member
Another thing folks is pesticides or what ever else is used … yes you can tell between clean or not clean cannabis , the high is cleaner … what you and we are doing is better then most dispensarys …. Nectar and cultured are my go too.. … So if you guys can’t get nectar soil or organic 707 and only can get FF , remember to ph and ppm the bag 1st and if ph is low and ppms are high you want to do some maintenance and flush it till the #s are in line of using nectar …. Yes it’s a little work but make your life easier thru a grow …
 

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
Another thing folks is pesticides or what ever else is used … yes you can tell between clean or not clean cannabis , the high is cleaner … what you and we are doing is better then most dispensarys …. Nectar and cultured are my go too.. … So if you guys can’t get nectar soil or organic 707 and only can get FF , remember to ph and ppm the bag 1st and if ph is low and ppms are high you want to do some maintenance and flush it till the #s are in line of using nectar …. Yes it’s a little work but make your life easier thru a grow …
 

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
Man I'm sorry but I have a whole list of questions for you but they might benefit everybody. So I just germinated 4 seeds. Purple cake, purple crunch, Bruce banger, and white widow fast. I put them in distilled with some Zeus and when they cracked open I put them in Jiffy peat pellets that were soaked in dr. Root and Bigfoot. I just bought a bag of number 4 and have some one shot on the way. I have the whole Roman regimen, microbe life line, cultured biologix line, Mammoth p, Bigfoot, Slf 100. I'm ready. Since I'm doing 4 plants I want to do them smaller also less buds but bigger buds. I'm wondering if I cut the veg time down if I can still follow the Roman regimen or do I have to reduce the amounts? I usually veg my plants for 7 or 8 weeks. Seems pretty long. So I'm waiting for these germinated seeds to sprout and when they do I'm going to put it in something a little bigger like a solo cup and then in its final pot when it fills that out. With this new bag of number 4 what PH and PPM should I get it too. The guy at The Grow Shop said the pH may be high. I guess I should probably do a slurry on it huh? LOL. I just moved so I have new water that seems ok 150 ppm. what type of water should I use on this slurry? And if the pH is high what type of flush should I do? A gaia flush? I'm pretty much asking you how do I prep this number 4 soil for the Solo Cup and then for my main pot?
 

bubba73

Well-Known Member
Man I'm sorry but I have a whole list of questions for you but they might benefit everybody. So I just germinated 4 seeds. Purple cake, purple crunch, Bruce banger, and white widow fast. I put them in distilled with some Zeus and when they cracked open I put them in Jiffy peat pellets that were soaked in dr. Root and Bigfoot. I just bought a bag of number 4 and have some one shot on the way. I have the whole Roman regimen, microbe life line, cultured biologix line, Mammoth p, Bigfoot, Slf 100. I'm ready. Since I'm doing 4 plants I want to do them smaller also less buds but bigger buds. I'm wondering if I cut the veg time down if I can still follow the Roman regimen or do I have to reduce the amounts? I usually veg my plants for 7 or 8 weeks. Seems pretty long. So I'm waiting for these germinated seeds to sprout and when they do I'm going to put it in something a little bigger like a solo cup and then in its final pot when it fills that out. With this new bag of number 4 what PH and PPM should I get it too. The guy at The Grow Shop said the pH may be high. I guess I should probably do a slurry on it huh? LOL. I just moved so I have new water that seems ok 150 ppm. what type of water should I use on this slurry? And if the pH is high what type of flush should I do? A gaia flush? I'm pretty much asking you how do I prep this number 4 soil for the Solo Cup and then for my main pot?
Your veg time doesn’t really count as much as in flower , with that said you can do 4 weeks veg and throw it into flower … what I do some times is veg till plant is mature ( shows male/ female ) then put them in flower mode …. Still follow the nite chart just be going from mid veg to late veg … so let’s say your in mid veg and then you see the sex of plant then do a late veg feed then go to flower … again no set rules , I went from early veg to mid veg then late veg in mater of 2 weeks … ..
fresh Soil do a slurry and see what it is … ppm 100-300 ph 6.3-7.2 is good soil … rather have high ph cause that’s easier to get down then up …. then what you do is just normal feed or what not in your solo cup and bring it down Is ph your feed to a 6.4 still you get that #in soil takes a little time not gonna be over nite …in a solo cup won’t take much of any thing not even water .. soil stays wet could throw off the ph too…
so when u do a slurry , what ever your water with is what u slurry with , RO to RO , from sink use sink , bottled water use bottled water……with your water already at 150 ppms remember that , some times you don’t need full strength nutes cause of the ppm … same when u do a slurry , if your slurry is 650 but if you subtract 150 from that then the true reading is 500 … (250-500) under hps , mh light …. 300-600 under LEDS …

let me know ….. welcome to the rabbit hole ….
 

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
Your veg time doesn’t really count as much as in flower , with that said you can do 4 weeks veg and throw it into flower … what I do some times is veg till plant is mature ( shows male/ female ) then put them in flower mode …. Still follow the nite chart just be going from mid veg to late veg … so let’s say your in mid veg and then you see the sex of plant then do a late veg feed then go to flower … again no set rules , I went from early veg to mid veg then late veg in mater of 2 weeks … ..
fresh Soil do a slurry and see what it is … ppm 100-300 ph 6.3-7.2 is good soil … rather have high ph cause that’s easier to get down then up …. then what you do is just normal feed or what not in your solo cup and bring it down Is ph your feed to a 6.4 still you get that #in soil takes a little time not gonna be over nite …in a solo cup won’t take much of any thing not even water .. soil stays wet could throw off the ph too…
so when u do a slurry , what ever your water with is what u slurry with , RO to RO , from sink use sink , bottled water use bottled water……with your water already at 150 ppms remember that , some times you don’t need full strength nutes cause of the ppm … same when u do a slurry , if your slurry is 650 but if you subtract 150 from that then the true reading is 500 … (250-500) under hps , mh light …. 300-600 under LEDS …

let me know ….. welcome to the rabbit hole ….
Okay good s***. answered all my questions. There's not much nutrition in number four so really having a high or low PH slurry won't matter much because after a few feeds it is going to be where I want it. Probably going to water / feed the soil a little at the desired pH before I put the plants into it maybe a little microbes to get it going. Maybe a little lightly in the Solo cups and a little heavier in the pots plus some one shot
 
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pahpah-cee

Well-Known Member
Only time you should see any yellowing is , your water habits are off , or your bk to herc ratio …. That alone will throw your ph off and cause issues and lock out …
I have a situation i’m stumped on…

I have a tent with 6 plants going. One out of the 6 is acting up. I’m getting yellowing leaves and curling in the leaves, almost twisting in the appearance. It is also getting rust spots. I’m hitting them with Bk at at 1:6 ratio.

any ideas on what I’m seeing? It seems like it’s telling me to cut down in the BK. I remember reading something (prob from this thread) that too much kelp will cause twisting in the leaves. So this could be the BK (and zues) again I suppose. The rust is odd to me. I would guess I need to increase DD.

Im already doing two different feeding ratios because of the two tents. I don’t really want to do a 3rd mixture of nutrients to make this plant happy. I’ve been hoping I could beat the plant into submission and it would fall in line with the others
 

bubba73

Well-Known Member
I have a situation i’m stumped on…

I have a tent with 6 plants going. One out of the 6 is acting up. I’m getting yellowing leaves and curling in the leaves, almost twisting in the appearance. It is also getting rust spots. I’m hitting them with Bk at at 1:6 ratio.

any ideas on what I’m seeing? It seems like it’s telling me to cut down in the BK. I remember reading something (prob from this thread) that too much kelp will cause twisting in the leaves. So this could be the BK (and zues) again I suppose. The rust is odd to me. I would guess I need to increase DD.

Im already doing two different feeding ratios because of the two tents. I don’t really want to do a 3rd mixture of nutrients to make this plant happy. I’ve been hoping I could beat the plant into submission and it would fall in line with the others
Gotta know what your slurry #s are first …
 

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
Hey bub I'm thinking about how I can supplement my grow with my one shot. Not to lessen my bottle input, but to maybe get even better end results. Before I transplant from Solo cup to 5 gal pot should I evenly blend the one shot with the #4 to make 4 shot, layer it #4 on top 4 shot on the bottom, or top dress?
 

pahpah-cee

Well-Known Member
Hey bub I'm thinking about how I can supplement my grow with my one shot. Not to lessen my bottle input, but to maybe get even better end results. Before I transplant from Solo cup to 5 gal pot should I evenly blend the one shot with the #4 to make 4 shot, layer it #4 on top 4 shot on the bottom, or top dress?
Just spitballing here, so take it with a grain of salt. I think all those methods would work. I would worry the blended method could be too potent for the seedlings at the beginning. With the layer method it would give them a moment to establish their roots before hitting the one shot. top dressing would probably work but I’d worry it could take too long to break down…delaying when you can start hitting them with nectar bottles.

i got myself a 12lb bag of it so I’m eager to get started with it.

What do you need out of the LED? What are your goals with it?
 

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
Just spitballing here, so take it with a grain of salt. I think all those methods would work. I would worry the blended method could be too potent for the seedlings at the beginning. With the layer method it would give them a moment to establish their roots before hitting the one shot. top dressing would probably work but I’d worry it could take too long to break down…delaying when you can start hitting them with nectar bottles.

i got myself a 12lb bag of it so I’m eager to get started with it.

What do you need out of the LED? What are your goals with it?
Well I have 4 plants. I wanna go all led no HID. So for led's I have Mars hydro fc e3000 that's 300 watts and a ts 1000 that's 150 watts, so a total of 450 watts. I'm thinking of doing the plants all in 1 row. So wanna do 3 lights with the 150 watt in the middle and the 300 watt on one side, and whatever light I buy on the other side. I'm probably gonna use 5 gallon fabric pots.
 

bubba73

Well-Known Member
Hey bub I'm thinking about how I can supplement my grow with my one shot. Not to lessen my bottle input, but to maybe get even better end results. Before I transplant from Solo cup to 5 gal pot should I evenly blend the one shot with the #4 to make 4 shot, layer it #4 on top 4 shot on the bottom, or top dress?
I would mix one shot in before transplant ..then maybe into the grow top dress if you like , top dress with a hand full….
 

bubba73

Well-Known Member
Well I have 4 plants. I wanna go all led no HID. So for led's I have Mars hydro fc e3000 that's 300 watts and a ts 1000 that's 150 watts, so a total of 450 watts. I'm thinking of doing the plants all in 1 row. So wanna do 3 lights with the 150 watt in the middle and the 300 watt on one side, and whatever light I buy on the other side. I'm probably gonna use 5 gallon fabric pots.
With my LEDs I’m watering every day … that’s only 400 watt each tent .
 

bubba73

Well-Known Member
Just spitballing here, so take it with a grain of salt. I think all those methods would work. I would worry the blended method could be too potent for the seedlings at the beginning. With the layer method it would give them a moment to establish their roots before hitting the one shot. top dressing would probably work but I’d worry it could take too long to break down…delaying when you can start hitting them with nectar bottles.

i got myself a 12lb bag of it so I’m eager to get started with it.

What do you need out of the LED? What are your goals with it?
even tho be a high ppm in soil , and being organic , won’t hurt the seedling as one thinks … I had soil at 2000 ppms and no I’ll affect , I just tea or herc till the ppm drops …l not as much as ppm it’s your ph is inline …
 

pahpah-cee

Well-Known Member
Well I have 4 plants. I wanna go all led no HID. So for led's I have Mars hydro fc e3000 that's 300 watts and a ts 1000 that's 150 watts, so a total of 450 watts. I'm thinking of doing the plants all in 1 row. So wanna do 3 lights with the 150 watt in the middle and the 300 watt on one side, and whatever light I buy on the other side. I'm probably gonna use 5 gallon fabric pots.
for four plants I feel like you have enough light like bubba is hinting at. That is unless you’re running C02. I would keep them in a 4x2ft or 5x2 area.
If you really want another led running I would throw another light with similar specs (for hanging height uniformity) and run it in a 6x2 area.
Another route you can go is supplemental light bars. I’ve seen companies like hlg sell supplemental/propagation bars.

Are you in a tent? If you’re in a open room you maybe could save some money and just use some walls to bounce the light. It’s wild how much light you gain with optimizing your space.
 
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