SIP thread -- (Sub-Irrigated Planter)

Polly Wog

Well-Known Member
I've been using 7 gallon grow bags and I'm just tired of watering. I've used Dr Earth and some other things such as lime etc. And saw the sip grows on youboob from buildasoil and others. I have 4 of the city pickers in grey. I think it will match the reflective mylar.... How many plants? One per sip? I have around 3 weeks before my bags are done.
 

CrunchBerries

Well-Known Member
I've been using 7 gallon grow bags and I'm just tired of watering. I've used Dr Earth and some other things such as lime etc. And saw the sip grows on youboob from buildasoil and others. I have 4 of the city pickers in grey. I think it will match the reflective mylar.... How many plants? One per sip? I have around 3 weeks before my bags are done.
How many cu ft of soil?
 

Polly Wog

Well-Known Member
The city picker I believe holds 1.5 ish. In bags I grow with a mix of promix, worm castings, happy frog a bit extra pearlite. Dolomite lime as well. Dr. Earth triple 4 and bloom Dr. Earth as well. Then I top dress every couple weeks. The area is 5x5. But I like variety and usually run 6 to 8 and flip early. The really agressive growing strains cover a larger area of course. I'm thinking 1 strain per and doing a 3 cup fertilizer strip and a cup of 2 of dolomite in the mid layer. I'm really lazy. I'll be honest a larger soil area etc like the organic guys looks great but not in my finished basement. If the city pickers work like I've seen on videos I'll be thrilled.
 

natureboygrower

Well-Known Member
Let the plant show signs of growth, before filling the res.
Yeah just water the soil prior to filling the sip and its the same as having a 15g pot.Should go a week before it needs water.
I have put very small clones in my EB's with the reservoir filled and never had a problem? I'd be worried about my wicking soil drying out waiting too long before filling the reservoir
 

natureboygrower

Well-Known Member
Well that's good to know,I think that also kills the myth that you need straight peat with little to no compost in a sip.
I usually plant clones still in solos. I also run 33% compost, so yeah, myth busted.
I've had my wicking soil not wick a couple times. One time I left the old wicking soil in( i use new dirt every run) and it wasnt wet enough to wick, the other time was due to packing the soil too tight.
 

CrunchBerries

Well-Known Member
I usually plant clones still in solos. I also run 33% compost, so yeah, myth busted.
I've had my wicking soil not wick a couple times. One time I left the old wicking soil in( i use new dirt every run) and it wasnt wet enough to wick, the other time was due to packing the soil too tight.
Setup in the EB’s is crucial I think or they do dry out. I pack wicks all the way to the rim of the planter, watering as I go to pack the soil down. The last couple runs I broke Greenthumb’s no top watering rule and it’s worked out great for keeping the top couple inches of soil moist. Plus I can add in my nutrient teas and whatnot.
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
Setup in the EB’s is crucial I think or they do dry out. I pack wicks all the way to the rim of the planter, watering as I go to pack the soil down. The last couple runs I broke Greenthumb’s no top watering rule and it’s worked out great for keeping the top couple inches of soil moist. Plus I can add in my nutrient teas and whatnot.
I always top water 500 ml after top dressing with either plain w/yucca, compost/nutrient tea, or build a bloom. I never have any problems, and I feel like it helps start breaking down the top dress faster.
 

Xsan

Well-Known Member
I'm another greens probiotic one. I start the seeds in 1 gallon pots with a layer of pumice then bas 3.0. This is posted a page or two into greens thread. I do let my saucer(res) dry out in the mini sip but keep the soil moist. I build and fill my big sip the same day with bas 3.0, bus, and ewc and keep it full until the end. Big sip gets em1 in the res. Microsip is straight tap out of ideal ph range. My first attempt is getting colorful now and my second attempt is coming along
 

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Jcue81

Well-Known Member
Sorry, the video I was referring to was expanding em1. Hyroot has a good video out there on making LABS. Chris Trump has good one also.
Watched the LABS video! So pumped to be able to make something that’s as good or better than EM1 for next to nothing.

I’m going to check out Chris Trump and hyroot and catch up on this thread and Greens. Really appreciate all the help and suggestions everyone.
 

CrunchBerries

Well-Known Member
I'm another greens probiotic one. I start the seeds in 1 gallon pots with a layer of pumice then bas 3.0. This is posted a page or two into greens thread. I do let my saucer(res) dry out in the mini sip but keep the soil moist. I build and fill my big sip the same day with bas 3.0, bus, and ewc and keep it full until the end. Big sip gets em1 in the res. Microsip is straight tap out of ideal ph range. My first attempt is getting colorful now and my second attempt is coming along
Yeah dude! Micro SIPs are sweet! I tried it last grow with great success! Shulby is another thread on here that has some SIP stuff also.
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
Watched the LABS video! So pumped to be able to make something that’s as good or better than EM1 for next to nothing.

I’m going to check out Chris Trump and hyroot and catch up on this thread and Greens. Really appreciate all the help and suggestions everyone.
Look into imo's and ferments. Great shit!
 

Xsan

Well-Known Member
Yeah dude! Micro SIPs are sweet! I tried it last grow with great success! Shulby is another thread on here that has some SIP stuff also.
Did you try to keep water in the res or let it dry out? Last time I kept it full as much as I could, this round I've been letting it dry out before I refill. I'm not seeing a significant difference either way.
 

GenericEnigma

Well-Known Member
I always top water 500 ml after top dressing with either plain w/yucca, compost/nutrient tea, or build a bloom. I never have any problems, and I feel like it helps start breaking down the top dress faster.
Folks the last few posts have been talking about top-watering a SIP. I do so fairly regularly, since I mulch with leaves and top-dress with compost/EWC, and am trying for no-till (top-water simulates rain, I guess, and my SIP doesn't soak the top layer into breaking down very well).

But I do want to raise caution. I put too much water on top and over time the hydrologic pressure forced soil water back into my reservoir (basically spiked it with compost tea). No big deal, until the ppm gets high enough to lock out nutrients.

If you run a semi-closed system like me, it can be more of a concern. If you have a robust overflow, like, for example, @myke, it might be less of a concern.

I had to siphon out my entire reservoir a couple weeks ago in learning this lesson. Got me back on track, though.
 

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McShnutz

Well-Known Member
I've been using SIP for 10+ yrs outdoors with some cherry and pear tomatoes. A combination of top and bottom watering is beneficial. At least in my experience. In soil, Organic ammendments all the way, but some bottled salts from the top can be appropriate. I don't give AACT in SIP. The bottom resivore with an airstone will brew 24/7. Just make sure to top water once in a while and this will help to replenish nutrient to be munched on by the micro herd. I like to top water In molasses if I expect any "brewing" to happen.
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
Folks the last few posts have been talking about top-watering a SIP. I do so fairly regularly, since I mulch with leaves and top-dress with compost/EWC, and am trying for no-till (top-water simulates rain, I guess, and my SIP doesn't soak the top layer into breaking down very well).

But I do want to raise caution. I put too much water on top and over time the hydrologic pressure forced soil water back into my reservoir (basically spiked it with compost tea). No big deal, until the ppm gets high enough to lock out nutrients.

If you run a semi-closed system like me, it can be more of a concern. If you have a robust overflow, like, for example, @myke, it might be less of a concern.

I had to siphon out my entire reservoir a couple weeks ago in learning this lesson. Got me back on track, though.
I let my res run dry before refilling. I also usually top water before refilling the res, not always, but usually.

I've filled the res with build a bloom before, and it didn't do anything detrimental, so I guess I didn't get the ppms too high, but as you stated, always use caution.
 

CrunchBerries

Well-Known Member
I've been using SIP for 10+ yrs outdoors with some cherry and pear tomatoes. A combination of top and bottom watering is beneficial. At least in my experience. In soil, Organic ammendments all the way, but some bottled salts from the top can be appropriate. I don't give AACT in SIP. The bottom resivore with an airstone will brew 24/7. Just make sure to top water once in a while and this will help to replenish nutrient to be munched on by the micro herd. I like to top water In molasses if I expect any "brewing" to happen.
Have you tried without the airstones? Ran a side by side? Airstones in the reservoir have been dancing in my head. There has been chatter of them affecting the microbial innoculant specifically em1. I called Teraganix and they told me that they don’t have experience and don’t know how it would affect the em1. “Adding an airstone with a small amount of bubbles would work, and probably eliminate the need for the lime in the system.” Thoughts?
 

McShnutz

Well-Known Member
I've been using SIP for 10+ yrs outdoors with some cherry and pear tomatoes. A combination of top and bottom watering is beneficial. At least in my experience. In soil, Organic ammendments all the way, but some bottled salts from the top can be appropriate. I don't give AACT in SIP. The bottom resivore with an airstone will brew 24/7. Just make sure to top water once in a while and this will help to replenish nutrient to be munched on by the micro herd. I like to top water In molasses if I expect any "brewing" to happen.
One last thing I forgot to mention. If anyone does utilize an airstone in the bottom, make sure to routinely inspect it for biofilms. A properly functioning soil web will be highly bacterial. Bacteria produce enzymes and your airstones will be completely covered with goop. Looks like mucus and will most likely be brown. Just rub it off.
When the stones get covered with films is when I'd say you don't need to "brew" anymore. But plants and microbes always appreciate increased 02
 
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