AntoMaria7
Well-Known Member
I also tought about this, like 22 celsius, is it too low?
Slow growth
- Thread starter AntoMaria7
- Start date
twentyeight.threefive
Well-Known Member
Yes. Should be closer to 26C-27C. 22C would be an ok temperature for lights off.
Markshomegrown
Well-Known Member
25c under the led, night temps 18c
Humidity is between 53-60.
22c is way low.
get your temp up to 27-28 with LED. You will see a a increase in speed.
When I switched from HPS to led. I kept the same temps 24-25c. When I learned about leaf surface temp and VPD I stepped up to 27-28c noticed a big increase in growth rates.
crimsonecho
Well-Known Member
dude mines are not low efficiency bulbs they are cree cobs with high lumen output and a proper spectrum they don’t really compare
Markshomegrown
Well-Known Member
Guess you think there's a big difference, leds are leds, there all the same, A high quality led bulb and a good quality led grow light are going to be the same quality, the grow light maybe something 5% more effective and last longer, ( run cooler).dude mines are not low efficiency bulbs they are cree cobs with high lumen output and a proper spectrum they don’t really compare
It's just like going back to hps bulbs, more or less they are all the same.
What's the difference between low watt cree cobs chips and the chips used in led light bulb, could they be the same chips made in the same factory?
I could buy 2700k 3000k 4000k etc what's the best light spectrum?
Based on hps being 2000k
I think 2700k is best for flower, as its very effective light spectrum(good amount of blue light)
General rule of thumb 20-30w ft2(led),
HPS 40-60w ft2
How even is your light spread?
HydroKid239
Well-Known Member
Great attitude towards it. No need to overthink things, and get overwhelmed. However if the neighbors aren’t tour smoking buddies.. you will need to filter the air well granted everything goes well.More struggle more power
crimsonecho
Well-Known Member
my light spread is probably more even than yours you have a hot spot in the middle where the light from 20 led bulbs overlap. i can read 30K in the corners to 50K in the mids at the same distance with a light meter and oh yeah there is a difference, for sure.
i’d fry my plants easy with that many crees 11w philips bulbs are something like 90lm/w with an ok spectrum crees i used are min 120+ lm/w (at 800ma and 85C which i run cooler and softer) with a better spectrum. so at least 33+% more efficient.
leds are leds and they will produce buds but i’d have to hang my lights so high up if added 6 more cobs that it would be kinda pointless.
Creature1969
Well-Known Member
Uhmmm, no.
Markshomegrown
Well-Known Member
So I need 25w ft2 to keep the whole canopy between 40k and 50k, the center is slightly lower than the outer edges, and I use chicken manure to feed my plant with some other dry plant food, basically the same as all the expensive bottle nutes.
my corners are nearly 50k @12", 20k@36"
WOW, you can run your lights at 16w ft2, that's impressive, may have to look into these.
Philips bulbs are 1521 lumens 12.5w that's 121.68 lm/w.
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I can only chime in with my first and only auto experience……but I have 3 super skunk autos that sprouted on Oct 13…..one is almost ready, looks ripe on the surface (no more pistil production)….but may have 3% ambers. The other 2 plants are a different story. Both are still kicking off new white pistils and no ambers except for leaf trichs.
By my count that’s 113 days with flowering starting around day 30. I’m running one HLG 320 xl LED and although my temps were a shade cool around 74F, the grow has been uneventful.
I just got back into growing and never grew inside, so I wasn’t familiar with the variables or autos. For weeks now I’ve thought “what in the hell did I do to mess this up and make things take so long?”……but it appears it’s not me. And honestly, most of the diaries I see where the grows are chopped at 11 or 12 weeks don’t look ripe to me. But I’m an old outdoor guy from years ago and our motto was simple. No more white pistils meant the outside was ripe…..another week or so ensures the inside is ripe…..then harvest.
My how things have changed.
Be well all.
Will you keep your temps up till the end?? I have some stubborn autos that won’t finish.
My light is a HLG 320 LED. The plants have been growing for 113 days. One is right there and almost ripe, but the other 2 are still spitting white pistils and old pistils are super slow to recede….they’re hairy as hell. Buds are hard as rocks though.
My temps have been 74f or so the entire grow.
Do u think raising to 80f might hurry them up??
Next grown I intend on dialing in 81-82f. I didn’t know if temps should be dropped so close to harvest.
I don’t wanna hijack the thread, but I think that’s a question that would benefit everyone growing under LEDs. Thanks
Markshomegrown
Well-Known Member
74 sound too low to me, I would keep the temps closer to 80.
never grown auto's and the 113 days is putting me off lol
often flower my plants for 50-60 days after 4-week in veg.
That's less than 90 days in total, guess auto should be finished in 80 days or less or there is no point growing them.
crimsonecho
Well-Known Member
philips 4000Ks are 121lm/w because they provide higher greens than 3000Ks thats what usually happens with low cri and high kelvin diodes all around, a top bin cree 80cri 4000K diode pushes 160lm/w for example and again with a better spectrum
even an 80cri 3000 led bulb will provide more green and less red so your lux reading will be higher than a 90cri 3000 led bulb with equal wattage because lux is for human eyes and humans see greens and yellows brighter but reds are more efficient in photosynthesis in accordance with the clorophyll a and b peaks and mccree curve. the only reason the crees i picked for my setup provides 120+lm/w is because its a high cri diode with higher reds not because they are somewhat lower in efficiency as in the case of led bulbs (they run hot and spectrum is worse not bad just worse)
so overall a cree diode will provide more usuable light per w both because its higher in red (spectrum) and on top of that also because it convert more electricity to light instead of heat (efficiency) compared to a led bulb
i ran 28w ft2 which is more than enough and even 50K is not necessary with cree diodes unless supplementing with co2 so i try to shoot for 40K max
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Markshomegrown
Well-Known Member
Ok say, the cree leds are more efficient, every 2 year I spend £100 (12 crops) and swap the bulbs, so there cheap and easy to replace.
The cree panel sound very expensive compared to the bulbs and I don't really see any advantages, sound like you would still need 25w ft2.
crimsonecho
Well-Known Member
crees driven at proper currents with active cooling can run much longer than bulbs. bulbs have a typical lifespan of 10-15K hours or so crees push 50-70K and if you build it yourself its not expensive at all i can source my cree diodes 5 bucks a piece and with the holders about maybe 8 bucks a led.
i can run them 4-5 times longer with less wattage to reach the same ppfds as philips bulbs or i can run them at the same wattage and get more ppfd and still enjoy the 4-5 times longer lifespan. my diy is about 3 years old by the way i still read those luxs over the canopy. dont get me wrong i’m gonna renew it after this grow but i’m sure it could last me for a couple of years still.
twentyeight.threefive
Well-Known Member
That's because you are harvesting your plants early.
Markshomegrown
Well-Known Member
You can harvest high quality weed in less than 60 days, the harvest window can be 4 weeks, sound like you wait antill the weed is over ripe.
Some strains can be chopped in 7-8 weeks.
twentyeight.threefive
Well-Known Member
Lol over ripe.
You are chopping before their fullest potential.
Have any pictures of your 50 day flowered buds before chop?
