Anyone ever???
- Thread starter Frank Nitty
- Start date
hotrodharley
Well-Known Member
Your skills are probably a few levels higher than this fellow's. Not saying he can't but that big one is pretty far along for someone to be transplanting if they're a newer grower.
PadawanWarrior
Well-Known Member
What he said ^^^^^^^^^^^^.
I have those same 1/2 gal square pots. I always use some Mykos too.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
If it's sucking up the runoff then it has dry areas in the pot so I let mine sit for up to an hour until they are totally saturated then remove any that's left.
I use a bread knife to saw an inch off the bottom of the rootball and scrape off any roots wound around the sides. Sprinkle a little DynoMyco in the bottom, spray some water then drop it in and fill the sides before soaking well.
Or use the same sized pot the plant is in to mold the shape into the larger pot, water while empty pot is in there, twist it out, then drop your plant in after root pruning for a custom fit. Repot when the plant is ready for watering to have the rootball stay in one piece. Never even miss a beat for growing.
Frank Nitty
Well-Known Member
What I'm doing is saturating the pot... Water is almost spilling out of the tray... If I leave it for an hour, the water is all gone!!! I think that heat has a lot to do with it... 480 from the wall is a lot of heat in a 3x3!!!If it's sucking up the runoff then it has dry areas in the pot so I let mine sit for up to an hour until they are totally saturated then remove any that's left.
I use a bread knife to saw an inch off the bottom of the rootball and scrape off any roots wound around the sides. Sprinkle a little DynoMyco in the bottom, spray some water then drop it in and fill the sides before soaking well.
Or use the same sized pot the plant is in to mold the shape into the larger pot, water while empty pot is in there, twist it out, then drop your plant in after root pruning for a custom fit. Repot when the plant is ready for watering to have the rootball stay in one piece. Never even miss a beat for growing.
View attachment 5060427
PadawanWarrior
Well-Known Member
Maybe add a wetting agent like yucca or something so the water absorbs better. I'm guessing you're in peat based soil.
Frank Nitty
Well-Known Member
PadawanWarrior
Well-Known Member
Nice. I use yucca extract, but lots of people just use dish soap. Watering slowly helps to keep the soil from getting hydrophobic too.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
It's not the heat. I always find out how much water it takes to saturate a pot for whatever size pots I'm using. Then when I'm watering a few pots I just mix up enough for each then if in a hurry add a measured amount to each pot fast and let the trays fill up so it can soak it in the next half hour or so. When done right there's no runoff to remove and the pot is soaked all thru. I'm not big on getting extra runoff to take out. I just don't overfeed them ergo no salts building up. I'm using ProMix HP sometimes straight out of the bale but I'll put what I need in a tub and as I go I spray down with a water/nute sol'n and mix it so it's all moist enough to make a ball when squeezed. I now mix in organics and myco so will put the lid on and leave the tub in the grow room to cook until I need it.
If I have gnats then I'd pour the water in the trays and use a bit less so the top couple inches stay dry. Now I just hit them with Gnatrol and they're gone. Little buggers go in and out of the drain holes anyway.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
Hawthorne. Part of the Bayer/MonSatan/Scotts/Roots/GH/Gavita/Botanicare etc etc family of outstanding corporate citizens.
Eventually even I will be forced to give them my money when they are the only game in town. Will work well with their genetically modified pot strains that like a lot of food crops work with RoundUp and are almost the only game in town.
VincenzioVonHook
Well-Known Member
Math on another level. We've all been wrong for centuries. 
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
That's why the rest of the world got together and didn't let the US go metric like everybody else 50 years ago.
Nutty sKunK
Well-Known Member
In my experience you can transplant at any time. Although it’s pointless anything less than 2 weeks before harvest but saying that there will be roots in that new soil!!
You just have to be especially careful at this point in their lives. Also the final container should be at least double the original size. Once transplanted water in the same amount you would during a watering plus another 15%
calvin.m16
Well-Known Member
It's good to overthink, always remember it can lead to over achieving which is good in gardening of any kind.
Source: https://www.alchimiaweb.com/blogen/cannabis-roots/
Use the right size pot next time around. If you think you need a 5 gallon then use a 7 and if a 10 use a 15 so on. Lesson learned..
Cheers.
Star Dog
Well-Known Member
I'm doing some regulars atm as soon as I can determine the sex I intend to re pot them, going on past I fully expect them to fill the pots without missing a beat.
Plants are putting down roots at least until week 9.
Idk for sure but I expect they'll put down roots until the very end or thereabouts?
Plants are putting down roots at least until week 9.
Idk for sure but I expect they'll put down roots until the very end or thereabouts?
calvin.m16
Well-Known Member
Roots never stop growing on cannabis plants. They will go and go and go. The rooting process slows significantly once switched into flower I've observed this growing in DWC. I'd say the root growth slows by easily 50-60% on most genetics I've ran.
I mean I strip all the large fan leaves off my plants on day 1 flip and day 20 so that's pretty extreme but it's a proven method that I've practiced for 2 years now with great success if timed correctly. They call it some weird name but its just major defoliation of all large fan leaves that would shade the colas. We want big buds in flower not big leaves is my way of thinking of it. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
@OP If you're willing to potentially lose a plant to science do a transplant and see how it goes, maybe it'll double yields for all we know?
Star Dog
Well-Known Member
Thanks for confirming the root growth until the end of flowering.
We want big buds in flower not big leaves is my way of thinking of it. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
My way of thinking is big leafs make big buds \_(ツ)_/¯
Once I find a pheno to work with I'll try some controlled experiments with defoliating.
calvin.m16
Well-Known Member
I tracked my plants yields and quality in a controlled grow already with shwazzing. Lemme find the grow log.
bud - Journal - 8 x Creamsicle Bay B
calvin - Creamsicle - January 2021 - 10 Gallon Plastic Pots Sunshine Advanced #4 Medium House & Garden Cocos Base Nutrients RAW NPK supplements. Silica, Humic acid, enzymes, amino acids, b-vitamin and Kelp.
growbud.co
That above log shows response of plants that were topped, lollipopped and stripped of fans. The yield on the crops prior without defoliation was 20-30% less with all the same parameters. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Not to mention when you do the Day 1 & 20 defoliation you end up with a lot more quality buds that are not only easier to harvest but trim. Lower buds will get more light and ripen quicker and swell much more.
I've been running that exact cut of "Creamsicle" since 2018.
p.s My setup & lighting has since changed a lot, I was going WAY overkill with the double enders I know.
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Frank Nitty
Well-Known Member
Done!!! For science!!! Now all we can do is wait and see what happens... 
Frank Nitty
Well-Known Member
Yep