to seal or not to seal

Xsan

Well-Known Member
There’s not much price difference between the 2. I’d do an 8.. it’ll burn shorter cycles, and you’ll have a 4 burner burn longer per cycle, so, they’re gonna use the same amount of NG.
I just start dropping the Ppm at the ripening stage, but alway keep it at least at 500 till the chop.

That was what I figured and had already added an 8 burner to the cart lol. Just wanted to confirm. Thank you again! This is the final piece to my room that had been keeping me up at night and I couldn't wrap my head around.
 

2com

Well-Known Member
That was what I figured and had already added an 8 burner to the cart lol. Just wanted to confirm. Thank you again! This is the final piece to my room that had been keeping me up at night and I couldn't wrap my head around.
I selected the 10 burner, because it had the option of using several amounts of burners; 2, 6, or 10 (Can't remember exactly right now).
 

xox

Well-Known Member
@bk78 @xox @Herb & Suds Which direction would you folks head at this point. I just looked at the mr cool mini splits and that will have to be an upgrade down way down the road. I am seeing three options at this point.

1. seal it and add co2 at a regular atmoshperic ppm. more sterile room than co2 boosted room idea.
2. two 6 in passive intakes and 2 6 inch exhaust set to run for 5 minutes every hour or?
3. just the 2 6 inch exhaust and pull fresh air from door jams and such
4. open to other ideas.
in my opinion id say ditch the tents, just install a mini split and a natural gas co2 burner. grow your plants in nice rows. maby throw a tent in the corner for clones if you only have the one room. id still hookup an exhaust for the room on a damper going outside, im aware that the plants generate oxygen when converting the co2 however im of the opinion that the rooms air should be exchanged completely on lights out when burning natural gas or propane vs bottled co2. yea ditch the tents except for maby one if you need a space for clones

edit i forgot, also when buying a mini split if you live somewhere that gets very cold in the winter make sure the mini splits condenser can run during the coldest temps of the year. for example p-series mini splits from mitsubishi have an ultra low ambient kit that lets the condenser run in -40 or -45 celsius ? i forget but they are the best if its cold in the winter.
 
Last edited:

Xsan

Well-Known Member
in my opinion id say ditch the tents, just install a mini split and a natural gas co2 burner. grow your plants in nice rows. maby throw a tent in the corner for clones if you only have the one room. id still hookup an exhaust for the room on a damper going outside, im aware that the plants generate oxygen when converting the co2 however im of the opinion that the rooms air should be exchanged completely on lights out when burning natural gas or propane vs bottled co2. yea ditch the tents except for maby one if you need a space for clones

edit i forgot, also when buying a mini split if you live somewhere that gets very cold in the winter make sure the mini splits condenser can run during the coldest temps of the year. for example p-series mini splits from mitsubishi have an ultra low ambient kit that lets the condenser run in -40 or -45 celsius ? i forget but they are the best if its cold in the winter.

Mini split will be down the road. The electrical side of it will be interesting. sub panel wont have enough juice for it and main panel is an interesting path to it. Good point on the outside temp factor! Maybe some day I will be able to go to a two room setup but for now it is just the one room with a max of 5 plants over 5 inches.

Wondering if my play is to maybe hybrid this one and go with both your and @DoubleAtotheRON ideas? Add a 6 inch exhaust fan with a backdamper set to run for 5 minutes at lights out and 5 minutes before lights on but keep it off during lights on. I have read of people having issues going completely sealed and seeing improvements by doing a air dump a few times a day but keeping co2 ppm between 500 and 800 depending if one is ripening or not.
 
Last edited:

DoubleAtotheRON

Well-Known Member
i forgot, also when buying a mini split if you live somewhere that gets very cold in the winter make sure the mini splits condenser can run during the coldest temps of the year. for example p-series mini splits from mitsubishi have an ultra low ambient kit that lets the condenser run in -40 or -45 celsius ? i forget but they are the best if its cold in the winter.
This was a mistake I made when I first did my build out in 2018. They ran the mini split condensation line outside. Never occurred to me that the drain line would freeze. That was a 2 ton Carrier. My newer 3 ton Carrier, I had them install the drain inside the room. I have a PVC pipe that is mounted to the wall and drains in my sink. ALWAYS drain to the inside if you live in a place that has freezing temps.
 

Xsan

Well-Known Member
This was a mistake I made when I first did my build out in 2018. They ran the mini split condensation line outside. Never occurred to me that the drain line would freeze. That was a 2 ton Carrier. My newer 3 ton Carrier, I had them install the drain inside the room. I have a PVC pipe that is mounted to the wall and drains in my sink. ALWAYS drain to the inside if you live in a place that has freezing temps.

Funny you mention it, I was thinking about draining to outside and then the hole in the wall got patched up so the decision was made for me. I am now thinking about trying to collect it in large container so I can use it to fill humidifiers
 

DoubleAtotheRON

Well-Known Member
Funny you mention it, I was thinking about draining to outside and then the hole in the wall got patched up so the decision was made for me. I am now thinking about trying to collect it in large container so I can use it to fill humidifiers
Good thinking!.. that's exactly what I do. I have a hose zip tied to the main PVC drain. When Im in veg, and I need the humidity, I just switch a valve, and it starts draining to my Portacool. Gotta keep an eye on it tho... it fills faster than it disperses the water, so I have to swap it about once a day. They are making thier own humidity about now (the plants), so i'l be moving it out of there soon. My well water is hard, and it kinda clogs up all the works in my Portacool, but since i've started using condensate water, it's clean as a whistle!
 

Xsan

Well-Known Member
Oh I hadn't thought about getting sophisticated with valves yet lol. I like it. I was going simple water sack or reservoir type of idea but wasn't sure how I was going to get it out of the reservoir
 

DoubleAtotheRON

Well-Known Member
... also, I don't know that much about your build other than what you've posted, but I thought it out for a while, and some changes where made during the build, but I had the electricians wire the ceiling with 220v outlets. this keeps cords out of the way, and 220v helps keep the load off of that circuit.
 

Xsan

Well-Known Member
... also, I don't know that much about your build other than what you've posted, but I thought it out for a while, and some changes where made during the build, but I had the electricians wire the ceiling with 220v outlets. this keeps cords out of the way, and 220v helps keep the load off of that circuit.

Would have been a good idea. Luckily, electrical is exposed so theoretically, it wouldnt be too horrible to change when I get funds to do the mini split. As I sit and type it out, figure when its time for new lights ill have funds to do the minisplit, upgrade my upper boxes to 220, and fingers crossed the state raises the plant limit so I can switch it to a veg room and flower room instead of the multiple tents
 

Xsan

Well-Known Member
Drawing-8.sketchpad.png


That is general idea. WT being a small work table/station. DH being dehumidifier. S&C is a 2x4 seedling and clone tent with a 240 board. 1,2,3,4,5 are 4x4x9 tents. each tent will have passive 6 inch ducts. 4 inch exhaust on a niwa controlller. Plan is one plant per tent, harvesting roughly every 5 weeks. so 3 weeks in seed tent, 10 weeks in veg, then switch to flower. different strain in each tent. runnig 40 gallon sips with BAS 3.0 soil and probiotics. 650w bar setup in each. 40 inch oscilating tower fan in each tent and another small fan just because. I am hoping to keep the room cool and dry. add humidity to each tent as needed and let the lights heat them.

I am running a single tent with a similar setup except it is an 6 inch fan exhausting right now and it seems to be doing ok in veg but we will see what happens when i bump the light up to 100%. I suspect the fan will be running a bit more. I am hoping if the ambient room is 50-60f and 30% humidity I will be able to manage each tent.
 
Last edited:

Xsan

Well-Known Member
Man, if I get a minute, I’ll DM you a video tour of our grow, Mother room, dry, cure, etc. gonna be a busy weekend tho with the Holidays, but I’ll send you one.

That would be awesome! Thank you! Forgot to add to the last one, the 8 burner will be in the corner by the work table and 6 inch fan sucking out will be on opposite short wall. also order 4 wall fans for the room to keep things flowing.
 

nobighurry

Well-Known Member
Mini split will be down the road. The electrical side of it will be interesting. sub panel wont have enough juice for it and main panel is an interesting path to it. Good point on the outside temp factor! Maybe some day I will be able to go to a two room setup but for now it is just the one room with a max of 5 plants over 5 inches.

Wondering if my play is to maybe hybrid this one and go with both your and @DoubleAtotheRON ideas? Add a 6 inch exhaust fan with a backdamper set to run for 5 minutes at lights out and 5 minutes before lights on but keep it off during lights on. I have read of people having issues going completely sealed and seeing improvements by doing a air dump a few times a day but keeping co2 ppm between 500 and 800 depending if one is ripening or not.
I keep my fans running 24-7 one near floor to keep the co2 moving it sinks towards the floor keeping the fans running helps with the extra moisture after the lights go off and temps drop I run my co2 between 800 and 1100 but it depends on how much light you have if they can take advantage of the co2 weak lighting use less co2 but I noticed far better growth at 1100 vs 600-800 I only dump the air/co2 at night right after lights out plants can't use the co2 then anyway
 

xox

Well-Known Member
This was a mistake I made when I first did my build out in 2018. They ran the mini split condensation line outside. Never occurred to me that the drain line would freeze. That was a 2 ton Carrier. My newer 3 ton Carrier, I had them install the drain inside the room. I have a PVC pipe that is mounted to the wall and drains in my sink. ALWAYS drain to the inside if you live in a place that has freezing temps.
yea i avoided that mistake when i installed the air handler. i decided it would be easier to gravity feed the dehu and the minisplit just outside my room i have a sump pit that pumps to the waste water for the building. i also had a thought about if it dies and needs to be swapped i put a removable piece of plywood above the air handler that i can remove so i can get to the lines and pull them out if need be.
FE09AFF6-1140-40B2-BB40-2F953464E802.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Top