Gorilla Glue #4 Auto Journal

Basebaby

Basebaby

Active Member
Sep. 22

Day 10 above ground except for the little girl.
They all had great root structure in the plugs before going into cups so I'm guessing she just got turned around for a couple days..

The leaves seem to be curling down a tad but I'm new to the indoor scene so I'm not 100% sure on that.

Setup is a 3x3 tent with Mars Hydro TSW-2000 about 5 inches above, RH @ 60%+-, RT @ 73-80, oscillating fan always on..
FFOF in cups.

I don't feel like I'm over or under watering and the led is only about 60% and produces almost no heat so I doubt they're getting too hot..

Let know what you think if I'm all good or not..

Cheers.
 

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Billy the Mountain

Billy the Mountain

Well-Known Member
Basebaby said:
Sep. 22

....

Setup is a 3x3 tent with Mars Hydro TSW-2000 about 5 inches above, RH @ 60%+-, RT @ 73-80, oscillating fan always on..
FFOF in cups.

I don't feel like I'm over or under watering and the led is only about 60% and produces almost no heat so I doubt they're getting too hot..

Let know what you think if I'm all good or not..

Cheers.
Click to expand...
That's a 300w light; even fully dimmed 5" seems too close. I can't get that close with a 150w TS1000 light.
 
D

Delps8

Well-Known Member
Basebaby said:
Just measured and it's sitting right at 12inches above. The plants seem to love it and there is practically no heat so I'm not worried about burn..
Click to expand...
LED's do not give off heat - they don't have a flaming hot filament in them. Manufacturers guidelines will get you in the ballpark. You can raise and lower the light to suit but you Inca avoid over or under feeding your plants (that's what light is to plants vs nutes being vitamins and minerals).

Next step closer to "good" is Photone, then a PAR meter. LUX meters are a crap shoot.

I've attached two files. "Lumens are for Humans" shows the part of the light spectrum that humans see - the middle. PAR is "photosynthetically active radiation". Light is a form of radiation, nothing to worry about. Plants use light that varies from ultra violet ("very" violet") to "far red" which is so red that human can't see it. If it's really red ("infra red") that type of radiation owe feel as heat, like non-LED"s that were used for cannabis and it's the same wavelength as are used in heat lamps for keeping food warm. Plants use all the light between those two extremes whereas human can only see what's in the middle. That's why a light/lux meter is a crap shoot - it's only measuring that little part in the middle.

The PDF is from a company that makes PAR meters. It's the best, most concise intro to LED plant lighting that I've seen.
 

Attachments

Basebaby

Basebaby

Active Member
Delps8 said:
LED's do not give off heat - they don't have a flaming hot filament in them. Manufacturers guidelines will get you in the ballpark. You can raise and lower the light to suit but you Inca avoid over or under feeding your plants (that's what light is to plants vs nutes being vitamins and minerals).

Next step closer to "good" is Photone, then a PAR meter. LUX meters are a crap shoot.

I've attached two files. "Lumens are for Humans" shows the part of the light spectrum that humans see - the middle. PAR is "photosynthetically active radiation". Light is a form of radiation, nothing to worry about. Plants use light that varies from ultra violet ("very" violet") to "far red" which is so red that human can't see it. If it's really red ("infra red") that type of radiation owe feel as heat, like non-LED"s that were used for cannabis and it's the same wavelength as are used in heat lamps for keeping food warm. Plants use all the light between those two extremes whereas human can only see what's in the middle. That's why a light/lux meter is a crap shoot - it's only measuring that little part in the middle.

The PDF is from a company that makes PAR meters. It's the best, most concise intro to LED plant lighting that I've seen.
Click to expand...
I'll give it a read when I get up tomorrow.. Thanks for the info!
 
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